Woods question - again :)

[Ted Brown]

@MiaS Did you get your monitor frame up done? We always like pictures even of sub-parts.

 

[MiaS]

@MiaS Did you get your monitor frame up done? We always like pictures even of sub-parts.

Not yet, The parts are all cut but just to be sure I will not assemble until the outside walls are placed, which I can't do unless we maintain dry weather for a few more days (expected to snow this weekend). I'll be sure to post once I'm back at it.

Ordered my Pullet-shut door yesterday as I intend to include a 6' x 15' run extending from the East side matching the 6:12 slope of the back of the coop. I will need to add some framing to accommodate it as well and to renail the window sills at the correct height. Hopefully that can all happen this weekend in the garage.

The door is an expensive touch (especially with exchange) but it got such good reviews from BYC members and I am a sucker for tools that work well.

 

[Ted Brown]

@MiaS lay it out in pieces as it is going to go together take/post pics.. Lots of experienced capable resources on here someone might have a suggestion or advice.

 

[aart]

@MiaS lay it out in pieces as it is going to go together take/post pics.. Lots of experienced capable resources on here someone might have a suggestion or advice.

Or at least take lots of pics to show later...it's hard to do while building, but usually worth the effort later.

 

[MiaS]

Here is the monitor wall layout so far. The two king studs are not cut to length just yet so they won't extend this long/high. The flat 2x4s on the right side are just guides for measuring.

I've use 2x6 beams top and bottom and will use z braces for the 2x4 lower roof beams and H1Zs for all others. They only just fit on the 2x6 sill. I see this as a bit of a flaw in the front and back wall dimensions given by Woods - the 4'-1" front wall height, and 7'-1" monitor height. Using a 16" H window does not leave much of a slope if you have any worries of snow. It will give a 1:4 slope, just. Since it isn't high up I will remove snow manually if needed. I'm also not going to worry about the 1/2" ply between the 2x6 unless someone thinks I need to. As you can see they won't be flush with the 2x4s at the back (inside) but I don't really care. If I have some extra sheathing I could cut to flush it up at the end.

I'm hoping one jack stud each side will be enough to hold the load but haven't really found that info anywhere. I'm planning on a 1/4 or 1/2" OSB roof sheathing and metal roofing so it shouldn't be super heavy with the 2x4 beams.

 

[MiaS]

Was listening to this song while typing my description above, made me smile as it seems that even with good advice, so many of us don't really go with the grain

 

[Ted Brown]

@MiaS The frame layout looks very good so as long as you get the jack stud length correct AND the windows go in you are golden. I have not read the 6' by 12' footprint instruction in Woods' book in detail. Scale is a funny thing sometimes it works, sometimes...

 

[MiaS]

@MiaS The frame layout looks very good so as long as you get the jack stud length correct AND the windows go in you are golden. I have not read the 6' by 12' footprint instruction in Woods' book in detail. Scale is a funny thing sometimes it works, sometimes...

Sorry did I say 6 x 12' ? It is 6 x 10 as per the book. I've done 6' in the back section and 4 in the front (which I don't think the book specified but I did scale it as per the drawing which was surprisingly close to accurate)

 

[Ted Brown]

I looked you said 6' by 10' original, I took it off track.

 

[MiaS]

Well, after adding and levelling 3 truckloads (6 yds) of dirt and burying and levelling of concrete footing blocks we managed to get all of my prefab parts out of the garage and assembled yesterday. What a job! Hoping the sunshine will stick around today so I can get the roof framed up. Monitor wall went in perfectly, though I clocked myself on the back of the head - I have a feeling it will be the first of many times.