Worms or Shed Intestinal Lining - Yucky Pics!!

[dawg53]

Yes, we have a definite diagnosis of Capillary worms. I'm nervous because I was told to dose the whole flock Iincluding our 10 day old chick) and then dose them again 5 days later. then a two week withdrawal (wait period). before eating eggs. But then I was told to dose them again, monthly, or even more often than that if I want to. I don't want to dose them monthly. I think that's too much, not only from the standpoint of not getting many eggs, but also because I think it could be harmful to the birds. The reasoning behind the frequent dose was that capillary worms are hard to eradicate. OK, but the medicine has side effects that In my opinion might present themselves if it's used that much.

My plan was to dose the first time, then five days later, and them maybe wait two or three months, before dosing them again, and dose them quarterly for a while. And I stil think that's too much, but we did lose a few bird, so I want to aggressively attack the worms.. I ASSUME we lost them all due to parasites, but I don't know for sure. We only had a definite diagnosis on the one bird.

I hate using chemicals of any kind, but I do think this is one case where I'm going to have to. Do the dosage instructions the way I described them sound ok?

If you're going to have chickens and their feet touch the ground, they WILL get worms. It's a fact and I've been saying that for a long time despite what others might say as you know. Capillary worms are probably the most dangerous worm because they infect chickens by the thousands and we cant see them like most other types of poultry worms. There are basically three types that infect chickens, possibly more. There are two types that infect the lower intestine and one type that infects the crop/esophagus. They will kill a chicken as you've found out. If you look at the symptoms and damage they cause internally, and then read a lot of the problems going on in the emergency forum, I would say worms would be the root cause of many problems because they weaken the birds immune system opening the door for many types of disease to invade their system....we are talking about one TYPE of poultry worm, not including the many other types of worms that chickens get. Your soil is contaminated with worm eggs and they are picked up by your chickens. Think about it, that's what chickens do...peck the soil constantly picking up tiny bits of anything and everything. Here's a link for you to read, a couple of paragraphs about capillary worms and what damage they do internally to a chicken: Scroll down in the link.
http://msucares.com/poultry/diseases/disparas.htm
Also, deep litter coops harbors capillary worms. This is one reason I've never had a deep litter coop, especially down south here.
People readily worm their cats and dogs monthly, yet chickens take a backseat to worming and are more susceptible in getting worms...why not worm a chicken with chemicals just like cats and dogs? It's all about the eggs, no one likes tossing them for a few weeks including me, a small price to pay for healthy chickens. Rotating wormers prevents worm resistance.
There are wormers that are available without withdrawal periods that will get rid of capillary worms; Flubenvet and Rooster Booster wormer which are added to the chickens feed for a period of days. I've never used neither.
http://www.jefferspet.com/rooster-booster-multi-wormer/camid/LIV/cp/16800/

 

[chicknmania]

If you're going to have chickens and their feet touch the ground, they WILL get worms. It's a fact and I've been saying that for a long time despite what others might say as you know. Capillary worms are probably the most dangerous worm because they infect chickens by the thousands and we cant see them like most other types of poultry worms. There are basically three types that infect chickens, possibly more. There are two types that infect the lower intestine and one type that infects the crop/esophagus. They will kill a chicken as you've found out. If you look at the symptoms and damage they cause internally, and then read a lot of the problems going on in the emergency forum, I would say worms would be the root cause of many problems because they weaken the birds immune system opening the door for many types of disease to invade their system....we are talking about one TYPE of poultry worm, not including the many other types of worms that chickens get. Your soil is contaminated with worm eggs and they are picked up by your chickens. Think about it, that's what chickens do...peck the soil constantly picking up tiny bits of anything and everything. Here's a link for you to read, a couple of paragraphs about capillary worms and what damage they do internally to a chicken: Scroll down in the link.
http://msucares.com/poultry/diseases/disparas.htm
Also, deep litter coops harbors capillary worms. This is one reason I've never had a deep litter coop, especially down south here.
People readily worm their cats and dogs monthly, yet chickens take a backseat to worming and are more susceptible in getting worms...why not worm a chicken with chemicals just like cats and dogs? It's all about the eggs, no one likes tossing them for a few weeks including me, a small price to pay for healthy chickens. Rotating wormers prevents worm resistance.
There are wormers that are available without withdrawal periods that will get rid of capillary worms; Flubenvet and Rooster Booster wormer which are added to the chickens feed for a period of days. I've never used neither.
http://www.jefferspet.com/rooster-booster-multi-wormer/camid/LIV/cp/16800/

Thank you, that makes me feel better. I think you are totally right about the root of many problems. Looking back, I wish I had known what I know now, because I think I might have been able to save all five of our birds that died this year, as well as possible more in the past. Although historically we haven't had any serious mortality problems like we had this past 6 months, maybe a bird every couple of years in the past. I know you are right about rotating pest control products for any animal. I also think that the continual cool wet weather we have had probably added substantially to the worm population out there, as I've read quite a few posts where people were associating their bird's illness with cool, very wet weather. I have already ordered the one dewormer that I will start off with, because it was recommended as being highly effective. I've read a lot of positive things about Flubenvet, and Rooster Booster has been around for years and we have that here locally...just hard to figure out a correct dose for the flock, with that. So I will look at those as alternates. Thank you very much for all the advice and support. Do you think it's ok to give the dewormer to the young chick too?

 

[subhanalah]

When using safeguard do you have to treat for three days like you do when you give it to mammals? Then retreat in 7 days?

 

[Tamara119]

Chicknmania, it does sound like you'll have to do a major deworming. I hope you can beat this! If you can get the flubenvet that might be best, considering you'll have to use it several times to break the cycle. How young is the chick(s) you might need to treat?

Subhanalah, yes, you have to retreat; usually the second treatment is after 10 to 14 days. Also, some medications are given just once e.g. a couple of drops on a bit of bread, while others may need to be in the water or feed for a day or two.

 

[subhanalah]

Okay, one thing I read said that for ccapillaia worms, treat for 5 days at 50mg/kg of safeguard.
I'm going to go grab it.

 

[chicknmania]

Chicknmania, it does sound like you'll have to do a major deworming. I hope you can beat this! If you can get the flubenvet that might be best, considering you'll have to use it several times to break the cycle. How young is the chick(s) you might need to treat?

Subhanalah, yes, you have to retreat; usually the second treatment is after 10 to 14 days. Also, some medications are given just once e.g. a couple of drops on a bit of bread, while others may need to be in the water or feed for a day or two.

Thank you, yes maybe I should have ordered the Flubenvet, but I got the other stuff recommended, it's on the way. I will rotate to something else, as was recommended, sooner or later.. Sorry, I can't remember what the other stuff is called, it's mentioned on another page and I can't get there

. I hope we can stop the freaking things too. So far they have only affected the young ones...4 months to a year...and the older ones...6 and 7 years old...but we have lost five birds this year and of course the older ones were old friends especially.

We have an older hen (she's 7) and her one chick, who's just ten days old. It's the chick I'm worried about treating. But I think her mother should be treated, no question, although she appears quite healthy right now.

my plan is to treat the flock when the stuff gets here, then repeat dose in 5 days. (you mix it in the water) And then treat again (twice five days apart) a month out. Then we'll see where we are, but I plan to deworm the flock at least twice more (for a total of 4 more doses) before the end of the year. And then going into next year, several more times as well. Hopefully that will help. How often do you think I should rotate dewormers? We have Safeguard, and Rooster Booster, readily available locally here.

 

[chicknmania]

What I ordered was the Levamisole.

 

[Tamara119]

I'd start with the levamisole, since you have it, but maybe switch to Rooster Booster after the first 2 treatments. Doing so should help break the cycle of the worms, but also let you get back to eating the eggs sooner. I wouldn't worm the 10 day old chick, but you wrote that your vet told you to? Maybe others here will have more advice on worming a chick so young. Personally, I'd wait until the chick was 4 weeks old before worming it. If you decide not to worm the chick yet, the biggest problem you'll have is worming the mother and not the chick, since the chick is going to eat and drink what the mother does. If you're putting it in the water, perhaps raise the water dish high enough that only the mother can drink from it. (Of course, put a non-medicated water dish beneath it for the chick.)

You won't ever eradicate the worm eggs in the soil (or in the intermediate hosts e.g. earthworms), but once you get the infestation in your hens under control you'll be able to maintain a worm-free or nearly worm-free flock with regular treatments, like you mentioned. Maybe every 2 months is too much, but in your case every 6 months might be too little. You'll have to watch your flock and find the right balance for you.

 

[subhanalah]

I've read that after two weeks of being hatched, the capillary worms do a lot of damage. I would worm the baby after it has been exposed to the ground for 8 days?

 

[subhanalah]

Poultry Production in Mississippi

[...]

Capillaria (Capillary or Thread Worms)

There are several species of Capillaria that occur in poultry. Capillaria annulata andCapillaria contorta occur in the crop and esophagus. These may cause thickening and inflammation of the mucosa, and occasionally severe losses are sustained in turkeys and game birds.

In the lower intestinal tract there may be several different species but usually Capillaria obsignata is the most prevalent. The life cycle of this parasite is direct. The adult worms may be embedded in the lining of the intestine. The eggs are laid and passed in the droppings. Following embryonation that takes six to eight days, the eggs are infective to any other poultry that may eat them. The most severe damage occurs within two weeks of infection. The parasites frequently produce severe inflammation and sometimes cause hemorrhage. Erosion of the intestinal lining may be extensive and result in death. These parasites may become a severe problem in deep litter houses. Reduced growth, egg production and fertility may result from heavy infections.

If present in large numbers, these parasites are usually easy to find at necropsy. Eggs may be difficult to find in droppings, due to the small size and time of infection.

Since treatment for capillaria is often lacking, control is best achieved by preventive measures. Some drugs, fed at low levels, may be of value in reducing the level of infection on problem farms. Game birds should be raised on wire to remove the threat of infection. As some species of capillaria have an indirect life cycle, control measures may have to be directed toward the intermediate host. Hygromycin and meldane may be used for control. Additional vitamin A may be of value. Effective treatments that are not approved by the Food and Drug Administration are fenbendazole and leviamisole.[...]

http://msucares.com/poultry/diseases/disparas.htm

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