Without even reading past the thread title, YES. Why risk it when you can just lock them up and sleep soundly?[/QSpot On!
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Without even reading past the thread title, YES. Why risk it when you can just lock them up and sleep soundly?[/QSpot On!
the lights I use, NiteGuard
Save your money for a larger coop....these lights are not effective, I have seen videos of predators stalking coop/runs while these light are flashing in the background.I’ll be sure to buy the lights once I get more money
I’d probably get them just to be safe, and were adding onto our coop so there’s not really a point in saving up for anotherSave your money for a larger coop....these lights are not effective, I have seen videos of predators stalking coop/runs while these light are flashing in the background.
What you have is Hardware cloth, what you see in the picture aart sent you a link to is welded wire, over hardware cloth.I
I don’t know if you can see if from the picture (I’ll take a better one when I get home) but I can’t tell if the wire is welded or not?
If you had read past the title you would’ve also seen that I wanted advice for how to predator proof it better. If you have any it would be welcome![]()
Ehhh...not sure I buy that, smell is more powerful than sight.I will add, if the predator can't see them when the chickens are asleep, then they won't seem to be a reachable target.
I agree... smell, especially wet chicken, is very attractive to a predator. And if the barrier is easy to breach, making chickens invisible won't deter the predator. However, being out of sight and behind a good barrier is a valuable defense combo. A hungry raccoon is looking for quick rewards. If the doors to the coop look closed and the door to the trap is open, with a tasty can of catfood clearly within reach, I think the raccoon won't have much trouble deciding.Ehhh...not sure I buy that, smell is more powerful than sight.
Plenty of coops have been fatally breached without chickens waving from a window.
Your best bet, cost-wise, may be to build onto your existing coop. Although store-bought coops are not built to withstand predators, or even weather sometimes, you can still make modifications to it to make it safer. Building a good, solid run around it is one. You can use scrap lumber or even PVC gotten off Craigslist (often free) to build a frame. You need 1/2" hardware cloth to cover the entire thing - even the bottom if you don't want to bother with the skirt. If you can do even that you have a huge advantage! Adding some locks simple gate locks you can slip a caribiner through to lock it - priceless. Make sure your coop and run do not have any holes or areas a presator can breach. A rat or weasel (mink, ermine) can squeeze through a hole 1" in diameter.I’d probably get them just to be safe, and were adding onto our coop so there’s not really a point in saving up for another![]()