5th Annual BYC New Year's Day 2014 Hatch-A-Long

[chickengirl1193]

Yes, Corrid is a miracle medicine too. It will save a chick with cocci very quickly. Buy the powder.

Dosage is tricky to figure and many will give you the wrong dosage. The good news is that Ampurline?(spelling) the active ingredient is not very toxic do dosage is not too critical.

Put this into your chicken Health notes:

Corid Dosage:
If you suspect Cocci, all chicks should be treated there is 9 species of this disease and ONLY 2 that have blood in the stool. Critical time is when chicks are between 4-16wks. of age.
chicks need to be treated when they are 3-4wks of age. CORID POWDER....1.5TSP. PER GALLON FOR 5 DAYS and then another 5 days at 1/2 tps per gallon.
and to repeat it every 3wks if they have symptoms until they reach 9mos. of age. After this its a good idea to put it once a week in their water.

thank you so much for this information!
Also, should i plug my turner in? my eggs seemed in very good shape when i unpacked them and im getting nervous that having the turner off is gonna be bad and they will stick. The eggs are fat side up right now and the temp is staying between 99.5 and 99.8. its so hard just staring at the eggs...i want to candle them soon!

 

[msladyhawke]

I set up a Survey for us to fill out. If you want to be part of the Chicks for local pickup thing from this hatch, fill out the Survey.

NYD Survey

The Form is also on the first page of this thread so if you forget where it is, go ahead and fill it out there.

Great idea! Just completed mine. Ron, you rock!

 

[ronott1]

By day eight you're good to cull. Thanks for the pic! They don't get wet from the water in the trays do they?

Very true! I The Marans eggs may go a bit longer to be sure about them. They are harder to see into.

thank you so much for this information!
Also, should i plug my turner in? my eggs seemed in very good shape when i unpacked them and im getting nervous that having the turner off is gonna be bad and they will stick. The eggs are fat side up right now and the temp is staying between 99.5 and 99.8. its so hard just staring at the eggs...i want to candle them soon!

Your Welcome!

If the air cells were fairly good, you can turn on the turner. I would candle them too because you are moving them anyway.

Originally Posted by ronott1

I set up a Survey for us to fill out. If you want to be part of the Chicks for local pickup thing from this hatch, fill out the Survey.

NYD Survey

The Form is also on the first page of this thread so if you forget where it is, go ahead and fill it out there.



Great idea! Just completed mine. Ron, you rock!

I just got up and and checking in prior to feeding the chickens so I have not checked the survey yet. The nice thing about the survey is that it automatically sends the data to a spread sheet. It will be very helpful

 

[Wisher1000]

That may be correct in what your saying. But from my understanding an F1 OE is any Blue egg layer x Dark Brown egg layer. The most common cross is Amerauncana x BCM. But that isn't the only cross. People even use green egg layers x dark brown egg layers still creating an F1 OE. Just because one of the parents is a mixed breed and lays color eggs that doesn't make the parent the F1 and offspring F2. Again I have limited knowledge but this is what I get from reading through about Olive Eggers. And yes my pullets mother chicken is a Hatchery EE not Ameraucana. I do also have Legbars but no plans to cross them to the BCMs.

From what I understand no pure breed lays a green egg. So any that have a green would be an f1 or brown egg layer in it's past making it not a pure breed so an ee. Now it could be a project bird trying to get a different color in which case you would be tryign to get back to blue egg not leave it green. I could be wrong here I just cant find anything but ee's that lay a green egg. I guess if you didn't breed the green egg layer and you bought it then crossed with dark brown it would be an f1. I guess it depends on where you want to start the project at. For me my green egg layers would be F1's cause I'm takeing a pure blue gene bird and mixing with light brown to make the green egg off spring. Now if I sold the green egg layer and they breed it to another brown dark or light they could say they're off spring is a F1 also because it's they're first time breeding it. But if I did that it would be an F2. This is why I consider EE's an F# already because someone mixed a pure with something else to get that off spring even if the buyer didn't. Once again I'm new to chickens so my thinking could be backwords. This is the egg chart I have from online that I was using as a guide for breeding the olive eggers. Now you could use an green egg, easter egger and put it where the blue egg is on right side of pic and then your f1 would be in between the F1 and f2 on that side since your project would start darker.

I started to stay out of this, but I thought I might be able to help both of you. Let's first get on the same page with our terms. F1 (generation 1) = the offspring of the first deliberate mating in a line with an end result in mind. This can be any pure breed that crosses lines or even an established line where a particular change or goal is sought. It also includes crossing different breeds and even "barnyard mixes" if you are starting a structured breeding project. F2 (generation 2) = the offspring of an F1 and any other bird that progresses the line toward the intended goal. EE (Easter Egger) = any bird of any breed or cross of breeds that lays a tinted egg. This is a general term and not a breed. It usually refers to birds that lay blue or green eggs, but there are many other colors, tints, etc. included in the very broad term. I have had Ameraucana crosses that layed tan, pink, yellowish, creamy, blue, and many shades of green or blue/green. They were all EE's. OE (Olive Eggers) = any bird which lays an olive green egg or is being used in a project to produce a bird that lays olive green eggs. Now, if someone says they have an F2 OE, all that tells you is that they are on their second generation of breeding to get olive green eggs. That's all it means. Hopefully, the eggs laid by that hen will have a darker green color than the egg she came out of, but the proof will be in the eggs produced. If they are not dark enough for the 'breeders' taste, then that F2 would likely be bred back to a BCM or other dark brown egg laying bird for an even darker olive green egg in F3. Clear as mud?

 

[ronott1]

I started to stay out of this, but I thought I might be able to help both of you. Let's first get on the same page with our terms.

F1 (generation 1) = the offspring of the first deliberate mating in a line with an end result in mind. This can be any pure breed that crosses lines or even an established line where a particular change or goal is sought. It also includes crossing different breeds and even "barnyard mixes" if you are starting a structured breeding project.

F2 (generation 2) = the offspring of an F1 and any other bird that progresses the line toward the intended goal.

EE (Easter Egger) = any bird of any breed or cross of breeds that lays a tinted egg. This is a general term and not a breed. It usually refers to birds that lay blue or green eggs, but there are many other colors, tints, etc. included in the very broad term. I have had Ameraucana crosses that layed tan, pink, yellowish, creamy, blue, and many shades of green or blue/green. They were all EE's.

OE (Olive Eggers) = any bird which lays an olive green egg or is being used in a project to produce a bird that lays olive green eggs.

Now, if someone says they have an F2 OE, all that tells you is that they are on their second generation of breeding to get olive green eggs. That's all it means. Hopefully, the eggs laid by that hen will have a darker green color than the egg she came out of, but the proof will be in the eggs produced. If they are not dark enough for the 'breeders' taste, then that F2 would likely be bred back to a BCM or other dark brown egg laying bird for an even darker olive green egg in F3.

Clear as mud?

That is very clear. It has been proving very hard to get far into the generations. My goal would be to come up with a "breed" that would look consistently the same(I think the requirement is to meet the Standard 50%) and have most of the hens laying olive colored eggs.

That is our Eldarado...and quite elusive....

 

[chickengirl1193]

okay im going to candle abd turn on the turner!

 

[chiqita]

I don't have an actual egg candler but what are some homeade ways I can make one? and it has to hold smaller eggs too

If you are still interested in making one pm me and I'll send you the flashlight info I use. I use a plumbing part to hold the egg and flashlight easy peasy.

He don't want that. I pronounce as bad as i spell. The sad thing is i read a lot just not out loud. I make up my own pronunciations. You don't want to talk chickens to me i'll butcher every name and leave you confused like "was he talking about leg horns or some sorta fog horn that lays eggs??"

I do that too! If you are a fast reader and take in whole words or sentences you don't learn to spell. It is associated with better retention too.
He is still listening! Chick's are unjudgemental.

I have been wondering about that to - does the first generation blue egg layer x dark brown egg layer = olive egger, or do you have to breed back to dark brown again to get olive?

The thing to remember is blue egg gene is dominant. But a f1 will only carry a single blue gene. So an f2 has a 50% chance of passing that on. Any generation of oe after f1 is a crapshoot unless you get them genetic tested.

There are good step by step instructions with a good picture of the underside in figure 3 on this page.
http://web.extension.illinois.edu/hkmw/downloads/46524.pdf
Mine are 24X48 and 32X48 just because those are the dimensions of material I had on hand. The top is 1/2 inch plywood and the sides are 3/8. The lights don't have a guard. The fixtures need to be porcelain. I also added 2 light switches so I could choose which lamp to light and a duplex receptacle I can plug one into the other to get the power or plug something else in. Just make sure the wire is sufficient to handle any possible load.
I like the ceramic infrared emitters because they're not as prone to breaking and don't hurt anything if they do. I've only had one break in half but it was no big deal. I've had a lot of lamps break. They're also nice so you can control day length with another light. The drawback is you have to feel for heat under the hover to see if they're working.

I had to buy eggs late this summer for the first time in years.

Last year I had a beagle get into a pen and scare the daylights out of the chickens. I got 1 good egg and 1 shell less egg that day and not another for 2 months. There were 12 hens in that coop and it was summer.

It is good to have Corid on hand. It is amprolium. I have the liquid since that's all the farm and home had when I needed it this summer.

I had similar scare. I lost most of my girls and did not get consistent eggs for 3 months.

 

[Aphrael]

Not so happy Saturday here, one I'm working and 2 there is a snow storm roaring outside that I will have to drive home in

Oh yuck!

Please be sure you drive very carefully.

I started to stay out of this, but I thought I might be able to help both of you. Let's first get on the same page with our terms.

F1 (generation 1) = the offspring of the first deliberate mating in a line with an end result in mind. This can be any pure breed that crosses lines or even an established line where a particular change or goal is sought. It also includes crossing different breeds and even "barnyard mixes" if you are starting a structured breeding project.

F2 (generation 2) = the offspring of an F1 and any other bird that progresses the line toward the intended goal.

EE (Easter Egger) = any bird of any breed or cross of breeds that lays a tinted egg. This is a general term and not a breed. It usually refers to birds that lay blue or green eggs, but there are many other colors, tints, etc. included in the very broad term. I have had Ameraucana crosses that layed tan, pink, yellowish, creamy, blue, and many shades of green or blue/green. They were all EE's.

OE (Olive Eggers) = any bird which lays an olive green egg or is being used in a project to produce a bird that lays olive green eggs.

Now, if someone says they have an F2 OE, all that tells you is that they are on their second generation of breeding to get olive green eggs. That's all it means. Hopefully, the eggs laid by that hen will have a darker green color than the egg she came out of, but the proof will be in the eggs produced. If they are not dark enough for the 'breeders' taste, then that F2 would likely be bred back to a BCM or other dark brown egg laying bird for an even darker olive green egg in F3.

Clear as mud?

Thank you for this explanation!

I think you explained it very clearly and easy to understand.

 

[Wisher1000]

Ron - Are you actively working on an "Olive Egger" breed? Cool!

While thinking about those terms a little while ago, I thought about my breeders. I am very early in my program and don't even have any F1's yet. I have breeder birds from a breeder that has been raising chickens for many, many years. I have no idea what generation the birds are that I purchased from him (F37?) but as soon as I hatch some chicks from them, cull with MY eye, and select the ones I will use as next years breeders, they will be my F1 birds. Even though they will be from his stock, without his experience, and preferences making the determination on who stays and who goes, they are no longer his line. It is really misleading for someone to say, "I have the John Doe line of show quality _(_insert breed here_) and I have been raising them for the past five years." Well, if they have been selectively bred without the direct input of John Doe, they are no longer his line. It would be more accurate to say, "This is a line of birds that I started five years ago with a John Doe pair (or trio, or a five bird flock.") The buyer must understand that just because the birds are descended from proven show birds, or were hatched from proven show birds, or even came from the farm of a proven breeder, that is no guarantee that they will produce offspring of equal quality. There are too many variables in poultry genetics.

 

[chickengirl1193]

I only candled half of.them, i didn't see anything yet all the air cells are bigger, in one of them the air cell is completely scattered now. I'm not going to candle the others or plug in the turner yet. I'm a bit discouraged should i have seen development?