Introduction

Introduction
20180421_163647.jpg
My flock from a couple years ago.​

This is something of a library of any and all injuries, diseases, illnesses, etc, that I come across, along with their treatments, causes, and prevention. I've thought of making something like this for a while for myself, but I figure if it will help me then it may help other people! I feel as though it would be simpler to have information like this all in one place instead of wasting precious time scouring the internet to figure stuff out while you have a sick bird that needs you. Especially when there's many different treatment options. I hope people find this helpful!

NOTE: Most stuff on here is purely from research and not from my own experience. It is always recommended that if you have a complex problem or emergency that you take your animal to the vet. However, not everyone has this option (including myself). Treat at home at your own risk and judgment!

I plan on adding and expanding to this! If there's something you want me to add, change or fix, or if you would like to contribute something, please let me know! I would love to get pictures directly from the community instead of Google, so if you have a nice clear picture of something and want me to put it here that would be awesome!

Table of Contents A-Z
A
Ascites
B
Bumblefoot
F
Favus
Flystrike
Fowl Pox
G
Gapeworm
Gout
W
Wry Neck

Ascites

Ascites
Water belly, pulmonary hypertension syndrome
​


I need a picture!.jpg ​

What is it: Ascites is the collection of fluid from the liver in the abdominal cavity.

Causes: There are many causes for Ascites. Ascites is actually a symptom of another serious health issue.
  • The most common cause is heart and respiratory problems, like heart failure. The heart and respiratory system of fast growing meat birds often have a hard time keeping up.[1] Oxygen can’t be supplied to the liver, causing it to not work properly, and thus allowing fluid to leak and build up.[2]
  • Tumor in the reproductive system[2]
  • Old age of laying hens (4-5 years)[2]
  • Obesity (stresses the heart)[2]
  • Extreme Temperatures (stresses the heart)[2]
  • Poor ventilation[2]
  • High altitudes[2] (stresses the heart and lungs)

Symptoms:
  • Distended abdomen that is often squishy,[2] but can be firm
  • Red skin along the abdomen[2]
  • Missing feathers along the abdomen[2]
  • Waddling like a duck when walking[2]
  • Blue/purple coloration to comb and wattles[2]
  • Labored breathing[2]
  • Lethargy[2]
  • Loss of appetite[2]

Prognosis: Very poor due to the underlying problems that often cause Ascites, but short term Ascites itself can be managed.[2]

Treatment: There is no cure for Ascites because it is a symptom, but draining the abdomen can help make the hen more comfortable. However, the abdomen will generally fill back up so repeated draining will have to occur. The most common treatment includes the use of a needle syringe inserted into the abdominal cavity in order to drain it. This is not without risk! Shock and infection has been known to happen. Some owners manage Ascites with vitamin supplements and a change in feeding, as well as certain essential oils.
  • Draining the abdomen
    • Supplies
      • Supplies
        • Electrolytes (Sav-A-Chick, Rooster Booster, etc)
        • Antibiotics (Broad spectrum, like Amoxicillin)
        • 60 cc syringe with short 16-20 gauge needle (16 and 18 gauge are bigger and allow for more drainage after. Most people use 18)
        • Antibiotic Spray
        • Rubbing Alcohol
        • Medical gloves
        • Bowl
      • Prepping chicken for draining
        • Because shock and infection are good possibilities after draining, making sure the chicken is hydrated beforehand can help mitigate shock, and starting an antibiotic beforehand can help prevent infection.
      • Steps
        • 1. Hold chicken like a football, vent facing outward
        • 2. Find an appropriate area to insert the needle. It should be about 1-2 inches below the vent on the chicken’s right side (The left side has important organs). Not your right, the chicken’s right! Wetting the feathers in the area can help with visibility. Clean the area with rubbing alcohol.
        • 3. Gently insert the needle into the area cleaned with rubbing alcohol, and gently and slowly withdraw fluid. The color of the fluid should be yellow, indicating it has come from the liver and this is indeed ascites. If it is clear, it means the kidneys have stopped working. If it is green or black, there is an infection.
        • 4.Once you fill your syringe, disconnect the syringe from the needle, leaving the needle in the abdomen, and empty the syringe into the bowl. You can do one of two things here:
          • Reconnect the syringe, and continue this process until you have manually extracted about a cup and a half of fluid.
          • Do not reconnect the syringe and allow the fluid to slowly leak out through the needle on it’s own into the bowl. This is regarded as the safer way, as it decreases the risk of shock.
        • Note: Whichever way you choose, do not extract more than ~1½ cup of fluid. Removing too much fluid can induce shock.
        • 5. Remove the needle and apply some antibiotic ointment on the wound. This wound will continue to slowly drain fluids until it heals.
        • 6. Repeat the process as needed.
      • Sources
  • Vitamins and other dietary supplements
    • Vitamin E and selenium- Boosts the body’s antioxidants. Low antioxidants have been shown to contribute to ascites.
    • Vitamin C- Boosts antioxidants, and reduces resistance of blood flow.
    • Sources:
  • Change in feeding
  • Essential oils
Prevention:
  • Access to fresh water and dry feed[1]
  • Good ventilation[1]
  • Proper feed and nutrients[2]
  • Clean coop[3]

Sources:
  1. Water Belly in Chickens [Prevent, Identify and Treat Ascites in Chickens] (farminence.com)
  2. Water Belly (Ascites) in Chickens - The Cape Coop
  3. What Is Water Belly (Ascites) In Chickens? (backyardchickenchatter.com)

Bumblefoot

Bumblefoot
Pododermatitis, Foot Pad Dermatitis
​


Bumblefoot- ForTheLoveOfSilkies.jpg Bumblefoot- topochico225.jpg
Courtesy of:............................ @ForTheLoveOfSilkies ..........................................................................................................@topochico225

What is it: Bumblefoot is an infection of the feet. Bacteria (e.g. Staphylococcus aureus, E. coli, and Pseudomonas)[3] enters the foot through a cut or splinter or other compromised skin, creating a pus filled abscess. Left untreated, it can spread to other tissues and bone, causing extreme pain, lameness, and even death.[1] Bumblefoot is characterized as usually having a black scab, or “plug”, with a core of whitish-yellow cheesy solidified pus.

Causes:
  • Dirty/poopy/unsanitary/moist coop[2]
  • Sharp/rough/splintery perches, walkways, and roosts[2]
  • Vitamin A deficiency[2]
  • Obesity[2]
  • Roosts are too high[1]
  • Overgrown toenails[2]
  • Foot deformities or injuries[2]

Symptoms:
  • Limping[2]
  • Swelling[2]
  • Heat[2]
  • Redness/discoloration[2]
  • Hard, black scab[2] often referred to as the “plug”.

Prognosis: Depends on severity. If caught early and treated, the prognosis is very good.[2]

Treatment: Bumblefoot is typically treated through removing the scab and removing the solidified pus core. There are different ways of removing the scab, whether that be cutting into the foot by surgery, or pulling the scab off. It is recommended that surgical removal be done by a vet, however, many people do this themselves. It can also be treated through non-invasive means depending on how advanced it is.
  • Treatment 1: Scab Removal
    • Surgical
      • Supplies
        • Bath towel(s)
        • Sink/container big enough to submerge chicken’s foot under water
        • Epsom salts
        • Antibiotic solution for soaking, like Betadine, Tricide-Neo, Chlorhexidine 2% Solution, etc
        • Disinfectant, like bleach solution, rubbing alcohol, etc
        • Antimicrobial spray, like Vetericyn, Chlorhexidine 2% Solution, etc
        • Medical Gloves
        • A sharp, one sided razor blade, or scalpel
        • Tweezers
        • Topical antibiotic, like neosporin (no pain killer)
        • Gauze pad (preferably non-stick)
        • Vet Wrap or similar
        • Medical tape, if needed
      • Steps
        1. Disinfect tools and area where you will be doing the procedure
        2. Fill sink/soaking tub with very warm water, and add Epsom salts to it.
        3. Secure chicken. This can be done by wrapping firmly (not tightly!) in a towel, securing the wings down. A harness of some sort can also be used. Whatever keeps the chicken still and in a position that allows you to work.
        4. Clean and soak the chicken’s affected foot in the Epsom salts for at least 10 minutes.
        5. Remove feet from water. To add more combat/defense for infection, an antimicrobial spray may be applied to the feet before operation.
        6. Use a sharp blade to cut around the scab, angling inward to create a cone shape, with the scab being the base. Once done, use tweezers to pull up the scab. The core, or parts of it, may come up attached to the scab. All the solidified pus must be removed. Squeeze and massage the foot to push the rest of the pus up. Soak more if necessary.
        7. Once all the solidified pus is removed, soaking the foot in an antibacterial solution may be done to further kill infection. Follow soaking instructions for the solution of choice.
        8. Dry the foot. Pack the hole with a topical antibiotic.
        9. Place a small piece of gauze over the wound, big enough to effectively cover the entirety of it. Medical tape can be used to secure it in place if the wrapping does not. Wrap the foot with VetWrap, going between the toes. Make sure the wrapping is firm, but not tight! Wrapping too tightly can cause injury, such as death of the toes from lack of circulation.
        10. Remove the bandages every 1-2 days to assess the wound. Soaking in an antibiotic solution each time the bandages are removed may be done. Continue this process until the wound is fully healed.
      • Sources
    • Non-Surgical
      • Supplies
        • Bath towel(s)
        • Sink/container big enough to submerge chicken’s foot under water
        • Medical Gloves
        • Epsom Salts
        • Antibiotic solution for soaking, like Betadine, Tricide-Neo, Chlorhexidine 2% Solution, etc
        • Topical Antibiotic, like neosporin (no pain killer)
        • Vet wrap
        • Gauze pad (preferably non-stick)
        • Medical tape, if needed
      • Steps
        1. Disinfect tools and area where you will be doing the procedure
        2. Fill sink/soaking tub with very warm water, and add Epsom salts to it.
        3. Secure chicken. This can be done by wrapping firmly (not tightly!) in a towel, securing the wings down. A harness of some sort can also be used. Whatever keeps the chicken still and in a position that allows you to work.
        4. Clean and soak the chicken’s affected foot in the Epsom salts for at least 10 minutes. The longer you do this, the softer the scab will become.
        5. With tweezers or gloved fingers, work at the scab to try to get it to come loose, along with the plug. Picking and pulling at the scab and forcing it to come loose is an option. Another option is to continue to gently work at the scab, being careful not to force it. Soak for longer if the scab does not loosen easily.
        6. All the solidified pus must be removed. Squeeze and massage the foot to push the rest of the pus up. Soak more if necessary.
        7. Once all the solidified pus is removed, soaking the foot in an antibacterial solution may be done to further kill infection. Follow soaking instructions for the solution of choice.
        8. Dry the foot. Pack the hole with a topical antibiotic.
        9. Place a small piece of gauze over the wound, big enough to effectively cover the entirety of it. Medical tape can be used to secure it in place if the wrapping does not. Wrap the foot with VetWrap, going between the toes. Make sure the wrapping is firm, but not tight! Wrapping too tightly can cause injury, such as death of the toes from lack of circulation.
        10. Remove the bandages every 1-2 days to assess the wound. Soaking in an antibiotic solution each time the bandages are removed may be done. Continue this process until the wound is fully healed.
      • Sources
    • Treatment 2: Non-invasive
      • Supplies
        • Tricide-Neo
        • Container big enough to submerge chicken’s affected foot (optional: 2 containers)
        • Topical antibiotic like Neosporin (no pain killers)
        • Optional: VetWrap, non-stick gauze pad, medical tape
      • Steps
        1. Mix together solution for Tricide-Neo. Follow mixing instructions. Put in one of the soaking containers.
        2. Optional: Fill second container up with warm water
        3. Secure chicken. This can be done by wrapping firmly (not tightly!) in a towel, securing the wings down. A harness of some sort can also be used. Whatever keeps the chicken still and in a position that allows you to work.
        4. Optional: Wash chicken’s feet off to keep the Tricide-Neo mixture as clean as possible. Dry feet thoroughly.
        5. Soak chicken’s feet in Tricide-Neo for 5-10 minutes. Dry feet thoroughly.
        6. Apply topical antibiotic to the area
        7. Optional: Place a small piece of gauze over the scab. Medical tape can be used to secure it in place if the wrapping does not. Wrap the foot with VetWrap, going between the toes. Making sure the wrapping is firm, but not tight! Wrapping too tightly can cause injury, such as death of the toes from lack of circulation.
        8. Repeat the process once a day. Repeat twice a day for best results.
      • Sources

Prevention:
  • Balanced diet, limiting treats[1]
  • Place roosts no more than 18 inches off the ground[1]
  • Fix splinters and sharp edges around the coop that the chickens may be walking on.
  • Keep coop clean and dry[2]
  • Design run with proper drainage[2]
  • Regularly check chickens’ feet if possible or if deemed appropriate.[1]
  • Maintain appropriate toenail length[2]

Sources:
  1. https://the-chicken-chick.com/bumblefoot-causes-treatment-warning/
  2. http://www.poultrydvm.com/condition/bumblefoot
  3. 336237.pdf (ucanr.edu)

Favus

Favus
Avian ringworm, Avian Dermatophytosis, white comb
​



I need a picture!.jpg ​

What is it: Favus is a chronic[1] fungal skin infection, typically presenting itself on the head of the chicken, as well as on the legs.[1] In some more severe cases it can spread to other areas of the head and may cause permanent damage to the beak and/or eyelids,[2] and can also spread to the rest of the body’s skin and around feather follicles.[1] It IS contagious, to both the rest of the flock AND yourself! However, it spreads slowly throughout the flock.[1] If you will be touching the affected areas it is recommended that you wear gloves.

Causes:
  • Most likely to affect young birds with well developed wattles[1]
  • Introduction of affected bird into flock[3]
  • Living in damp and humid locations and regions[2]
  • Direct or indirect contact with other infected birds, animals and insects, soil, or objects.[2]

Symptoms:
  • Beginning, mild cases
    • White, powdery looking spots with wrinkled scabs on the comb.[1]
    • Lesions on non-feathered regions (e.g. comb and wattle, and legs)[1]
  • Progressive, more severe cases
    • Feathers falling out in patches[1]
    • Thick and crusty skin developed around feather follicles[1]
    • Depressions around follicles, called “favus cups”[1]
    • Thick, crusty, scaly skin[2]
    • White plaques on comb, face, earlobes, and wattles.[1]

Prognosis: Most cases do not get severe, so the prognosis is very good.

Treatment: While there are effective treatments, normal mild infections tend to go away on their own after 10 weeks.[1]

Prevention:
  • Quarantine new birds[2]
  • Separate affected birds

Sources:
  1. Farm Health Online – Animal Health and Welfare Knowledge Hub – Favus
  2. Favus (Ringworm) in Chickens (poultrydvm.com)
  3. Fungal/Mycotic Diseases of Poultry-diagnosis, Treatment and Control: A Review (scialert.net)

Flystrike

Flystrike
Myiasis, fly blown
​


I need a picture!.jpg ​

What is it: Flystrike is when flies will lay eggs on a living chicken. They typically do this in the presence of soiled, poopy, and damp feathers, most frequently on the feathers under the vent where poop gets caked on. This can also happen in open wounds. The eggs hatch and the maggots begin to eat the chicken alive.

Causes:
  • Lots of flies in the chicken coop
  • Soiled, damp feathers
  • Open wounds

Symptoms:
  • Lethargy
  • Isolation
  • Wet feathers
  • Presence of maggots and eggs on the chicken
  • Bleeding
  • Personally, when my hen had flystrike, I remember smelling hot trash.

Prognosis: Heavily depends on how severe it is. If caught before too much damage is done, the chicken can be saved. Once flystrike has been discovered, IMMEDIATE treatment is necessary. This is an emergency.

Treatment:
  • Supplies
    • Sink/container to soak chicken that is deep enough to submerge flystricken area
    • Medical Gloves
    • Tweezers
    • Medicine syringe
    • Topical antibiotic/ antibiotic flushes (Betadine, Veterycin, saline water, neosporin, etc)
    • Hydrogen Peroxide, if needed
    • Vitamins and electrolytes
  • Steps
    1. Fill container with warm water, deep enough to submerge the flystrike
    2. Bath chicken in water, submerging the area to drown as many maggots as possible.
    3. Once it seems as many maggots as possible have drowned, remove chicken from water. If needed, secure chicken with a towel, with the help of another person, or whatever works. When I dealt with flystrike, my usually flighty, don’t-touch-me hen stood completely still on the step stool and allowed me to work on her with no restraint. I don’t know if that’s normal or not so that’s why I say “if needed”.
    4. If needed, cut feathers around the area for better visibility.
    5. With tweezers and gloved hands, manually pick off ALL maggots and eggs. Some may have burrowed deeper into the flesh where they can’t reach. If this is the case, flushing the holes where they have burrowed with hydrogen peroxide may make them come out so that they can be plucked off. Hydrogen Peroxide should not be overused because of its tendency to harm healthy skin. However, it can be used as an antiseptic if nothing else is available.
    6. Once all the maggots and the eggs have been removed, you may flush/spray the wound with a topical antibiotic.
    7. Dry the chicken by using a towel to sop up excess water, and a blow dryer on the lowest setting to get the bird completely dry.
    8. Apply a topical antibiotic on and in the wound.
    9. Keep the chicken separated, away from flies. Monitor chicken closely for more maggots that may have been missed. If some more maggots are found, repeat the manual plucking process. If there are a lot of maggots, repeating the whole process from step 1 may be needed.
    10. Flushing the wound 3 times a day may be done. Make sure to keep topical antibiotics on and in the wound, at least between flushings.
    11. Reintegrate chicken once the wound is fully healed.
    12. Give the chicken vitamins and electrolytes for the first couple days.
  • Sources

Prevention:
  • Keep flies down in the coop. I found sand bedding works well for that, as well as regular cleanings. Some essential oils, like citronella, eucalyptus, lemongrass, and peppermint, are said to be effective for that. ElectorPSP is also effective and can be sprayed directly on the chicken’s backside.
  • Watch for open wounds
  • Trim butt feathers to prevent poop buildup
  • If possible or if deemed appropriate, bath the chicken to clean soiled feathers
  • Make sure they have a way of dustbathing

Sources:
  • I have no sources, other than the ones linked for treatment. I’ve dealt with flystrike before so all information is from me. My case was mild so I used sources for more severe cases under the treatments.

Gout

Gout
Urate deposition
​


I need a picture!.jpg ​

What is it: Gout is the deposition of uric acid (basically a chicken’s urine) in different parts of the body. The liver produces the uric acid, and the kidneys get rid of it. If the kidneys are impaired or overloaded, that uric acid stays in the body and builds up in the blood. Deposits of uric acid will form, creating crystals. There are two main types of gout; articular and visceral. In articular gout, the uric acid accumulates in the joints, ligaments, and tendon sheaths. In visceral gout, uric acid accumulates on the surface of visceral organs (heart, liver, air sacs, etc).[1] Articular gout is not as common as visceral.[2]

Causes: There are a number of things that can cause kidney damage. Some causes are, but are not limited to:
  • Dehydration[1]
  • Excessive calcium in non laying chickens (frequently happens in roosters for this reason, as well as pullets who are fed layer feed)[1], which causes visceral
  • Excessive protein, which causes articular[2]
  • Viral infections that can cause kidney damage[1]
  • Toxins[1]

Symptoms: Articular gout is the most easily recognizable. With visceral gout, diagnosis is often made during a necropsy after death.
  • Articular gout
    • Lameness in legs[1]
    • Swelling of ankles[1]
    • Inability to flex certain joints[1]
  • Visceral gout
    • Depression[1]
    • Decreased appetite[3]
    • Moist vent and diarrhea[3]
    • Ruffled feathers[4]

Prognosis: For both types, prognosis is poor. With visceral gout, the cause of it is from rapid kidney failure or some terminal event, so mortality will happen quickly. With articular gout, it happens more slowly over time, but it is still a long term condition with no real cure. Both are painful, but progression may be managed, especially for articular gout.[2]

Treatment: There is no treatment for gout, only remedies.

Prevention:
  • Ensure access to fresh, clean water[1] and non moldy food[3]
  • Ensure chickens get proper amounts of Vitamin A[1]
  • Ensure chickens are getting the recommended amount of protein[1]
  • Do not feed non laying pullets high calcium feed. If possible, avoid feeding roosters high calcium feed.[1]
  • Provide formulated feed for the appropriate aged chickens[3]
  • Be careful with certain antibiotics and medicines that can cause kidney damage[3]
  • Vaccinate for certain diseases and manage diseases[4]

Sources:
  1. Gout in Chickens (poultrydvm.com)
  2. Urate Deposition (Gout) in Poultry - Poultry - Merck Veterinary Manual (merckvetmanual.com)
  3. Avian Gout – Bitchin' Chickens (bitchinchickens.com)
  4. Gout Management in Poultry | The Poultry Site

Fowl Pox

Fowl Pox
Avian Pox, Avian Diphtheria, Bird Pox
​


I need a picture!.jpg
Courtesy of:........................................................................................................................@TANKAR717
............................................................................................................................................... (Dry fowl pox)

What is it: Fowl pox is a viral infection, contracted from a bite of a mosquito carrying the virus. It is contagious to other chickens and birds[1]. There are two forms of fowl pox; dry and wet. Dry fowl pox is the most common. It produces lesions of the leg, body, and head in places that don’t have feathers. Wet pox is the least common. It produces yellow lesions in the throat and respiratory tract.[1] Once a chicken has contracted and recovered from fowl pox, it has developed an immunity to it and generally will not get it again.[3]

Causes:
  • Bite from mosquito carrying the virus[1]
  • Scratching affected bird, contact with broken skin or mucous membranes[1]
  • Contact with dried and fallen off scabs from an affected bird[4]

Symptoms:
  • Weight loss[1]
  • Lesions in on the face and legs, or in mouth[1]
  • Drinking less water[1]
  • Difficulty breathing[2]

Prognosis: Depends on the type of fowl pox. Dry fowl pox generally has a good prognosis.[1] Wet fowl pox, however, has a poorer diagnosis, especially in unvaccinated chickens.[4]

Treatment: There is no real treatment, only supportive care. Fowl pox is something that the chicken gets over by itself. But there are some things that can be done to help the chicken stay comfortable, and to prevent secondary infection.

Prevention:
  • Keep mosquito population down (eliminate stagnant water, use netting, mosquito traps, and/or bug spray)[4]
  • Vaccination (helps prevent infection,[3] and lessens severity of the virus if a chicken does become infected)[4]
  • Isolate infected chicken to help prevent spread.

Sources:
  1. Fowl Pox in Chickens: Cause, Treatment and Prevention (cs-tf.com)
  2. Fowl Pox: Causes, Signs, Prevention and Treatment | Poultry Facts
  3. Fowlpox in Chickens and Turkeys - Poultry - Merck Veterinary Manual (merckvetmanual.com)
  4. Fowl pox in Chickens (poultrydvm.com)

Gapeworm

Gapeworm
Syngamus trachea, Gapes, Red worms, Forked worms, Y worms
​


I need a picture!.jpg ​

What is it: A roundworm that infects the trachea of chickens and other birds, wild or domesticated.[2]

Causes: An infected chicken coughs out or poops out the eggs of the gapeworm. Typically those eggs will pass to an intermediate hose, such as a snail, earthworm, or other invertebrate, which gets eaten by another chicken, thus infecting it.[1]

Symptoms:
  • Gasping and gaping[1]
  • Gurgling[1]
  • Trouble breathing[1]
  • Head shaking[1]
  • Loss of appetite[1]
  • Coughing[1]
  • Choking[1]
  • Neck stretching[1]

Prognosis: If left untreated it will likely result in death. With swift treatment the prognosis is good. Young birds[1] and smaller breeds, like bantams[2], are most hard hit by gapeworm, due to their tracheas being naturally smaller.

Treatment: The only treatment involves giving the chicken an effective dewormer. Below are the dosages for the most popular dewormers used. Note: Most of these dewormers are used off label for chickens. Because of that, there is no instruction for egg or meat withdrawl time. The standard practice is to withdrawl from both for 14 days.

Prevention:
  • Rotate grazing areas[1]
  • Treat soil for earthworms, snails, and slugs[2]
  • Till soil in pens at the end of each growing season[2]
  • Have a regular deworming regimen[1]

Sources:
  1. Gapeworm (poultrykeeper.com)
  2. Gapeworm Infection in Chickens (poultrydvm.com)

Wry Neck

Wry Neck
Crook Neck, Stargazing, Twisted Neck, Torticollis
​


I need a picture!.jpg ​

What is it: Wry neck is when a chicken’s neck and head gets stuck in an abnormal position. Oftentimes, the chicken’s head will be positioned in a way that it is looking upward. This most commonly affects chicks, but can affect adult chickens as well[1]

Causes:
  • Most commonly a vitamin E deficiency[2]
  • Genetic disorder[2]
  • Head injury, especially in silkie and polish chickens[2]
  • Incubation problems[3]
  • Ingestion of toxins[1]

Symptoms:
  • Neck contorted into an unnatural position[1]
  • Can’t keep balance[1]
  • Stuck looking upwards[1]
  • Difficulty eating and drinking[2]

Prognosis: Prognosis is very good if treated promptly and consistently. It does not resolve quickly, so the chicken may require extra care in the meantime.

Treatment:
  • Separate the chicken to minimize stress and to prevent injury from other flock mates.
  • Increase the amount of vitamin E, vitamin B-1, and selenium the chicken gets. Selenium is needed for good vitamin absorption. Caution: Vitamins can be overdosed! Follow the instructions for the supplement you get. This can be done in the following ways:
    • Giving a vitamin E and vitamin B-1 supplement with selenium for chickens in the form of a powder or pill. If you can’t get one with selenium, you can give a 25mg selenium supplement tablet. You can also give some cooked egg to go along with the vitamins instead of the tablet, because egg has good selenium content.
    • Giving food items that are naturally high in vitamin E and vitamin B-1, and giving the egg along with it for selenium.
      • Examples for vitamin E: spinach, asparagus, broccoli, dandelion greens, etc.
      • Example for vitamin B-1: Brewer’s Yeast, cereal grains and their by-products.
  • Helping the chicken eat and drink may be required due to its neck being twisted.
  • It may take up to a month for recovery. After the chicken recovers, continue giving supplements for 2 weeks.
  • Sources

Prevention:
  • Provide proper feed[1]
  • Purchase eggs/chicks from reputable breeders[3]

Sources:
  1. Wry neck in chickens : all you need to know. (raising-happy-chickens.com)
  2. Everything You Need to Know About Wry Neck in Chickens | Freedom Ranger Blog (freedomrangerhatchery.com)
  3. Wry neck in Chickens (poultrydvm.com)