The Ultimate Poultry and Caged Bird Care Guide: Housing, Farming, Species, Enrichment and More

Introduction to the article

This is going to be a REALLY long article I have written myself. There are many different species of fowl (excluding chickens) that are frequently mentioned on BYC. Some of these include ducks, pigeons, finches and native parrots, pheasants, peafowl, guinea-fowl, quail, turkeys, geese and swans.

Pheasants and peafowl can make great animal companions, if you have done your research. These birds are known for their vibrant colours, loud calls and very distinctive courtship displays. While pheasants are valued for their sporting and culinary qualities, peafowl are often raised for their aesthetic appeal, including the iconic, complex and extravagant tail feathers of male Indian and green peafowl. They are a great addition to your farmyard because of these traits mentioned. Pheasants are birds best known for their striking plumage and are native to various parts of the world, including Asia, Europe and North America. Peafowl, however, are native to Asia and are the most colourful pheasant-like bird around. Female birds are called peahens.

Ducks, swans and geese are waterfowl, meaning they have short, webbed legs adapted for swimming. They have bodies that are streamlined. Like chickens, ducks and geese are common animals in the farmyard, however, swans are not; like all animals, they have some special needs to their care. There are a lot of BYC members who own ducks, swans and geese in their care. Ducks, swans and geese are not only beautiful to observe but also play vital roles in the ecosystems they inhabit. From the graceful swan swimming across a serene lake to the quacking ducks that waddle along your local pond, each species has their own unique charm.

Guinea-fowl and turkeys are large birds with distinctive body colouration. Guinea-fowl are native to Africa, while turkeys are native to North America. Guinea-fowl and turkeys stand out as distinct members of the poultry kingdom, each possessing their own set of characteristics, habits and endearing quirks. From the striking plumage of turkeys to the distinctive calls of guinea-fowl, these birds have endeared themselves to people all over the world. Yet, their uniqueness also comes with specific requirements that warrant a deeper understanding. These big birds have held our place in our hearts, from being dinner to keeping them in the farm for ornamental purposes.

Australian finches and parrots represent some of the most captivating and diverse species within the avian kingdom. From the dazzling rainbow hues of parrots to the intricate patterns adorning finches, these small-medium birds have enchanted bird lovers, conservationists and ornithologists alike. Yet, their striking appearance is only one facet of their allure, as each species boasts their own unique behaviours, calls and habits.

Domestic pigeons are one of the best domestic birds for a beginning birdkeeper. These birds lived in the cities and farm areas around the world as feral birds. There are pigeons used in different industries, such as the racing industry and historically, warfare, where they used to deliver letters to allied soldiers in dangerous situations. You can raise pigeons for meat, too.

Quail are shy birds, but are sometimes trained to be in human contact. They, like chickens, are easy to keep and are a good alternative to keep in your backyard because they are quieter than a chicken, who are naturally loud birds. These birds are lively and make good animal companions if researched properly.

From housing to breeding, colouration to raising some fowl for meat, this care guide will have everything you will need to raise them and more. There will be species/breed profiles in some birds, too.




PHEASANTS


The beginning...

Before bringing these birds into your care, it's crucial to be familiar with their natural behaviours, habitats and any legal regulations regarding their ownership in your region. Pheasants cost $30 or more, but $60 for a pair. Rarer ones, such as Siamese fireback pheasants, would cost up to $700 or more. Common (ring-necked) pheasants cost $50/pr, Chinese golden pheasants $60/pr and Kalij and Swinhoe's pheasants cost $70/pr. Normal Indian peafowl would cost $40 or more, white Indian peafowl $200, but Java green peafowl would cost $4000 or more and the Indo-Chinese green peafowl is even rarer in Australia, costing $16,500 for a bird.

Housing

Pheasants need a large enclosure to thrive. You will need more than 5 square feet per bird, with 35 square feet being the best minimum for a covey (group) of pheasants that gives them enough room to wander around the enclosure. A special enclosure would include a large run with a large coop for egg-laying. The size of the enclosure depends on the species of pheasant; for example, the tragopans and great argus would need 400 square feet or more of space and Chinese golden pheasants and silver pheasants would require 100 square feet or more. For most pheasants, a massive coop and run is required, about 3 metres or more in size, is required, however smaller pheasants can be kept in aviaries. Make sure there is good cover for hens to lay their eggs from aggressive males. The shelters should be 1.5m x 1.5m x 1.5m in size. The site of the area must be dry and well-drained. The shelters must be well-ventilated and free from drafts. The enclosure must be protected from predators such as cats and foxes.

Feeding

These birds are omnivorous, meaning they eat mostly plant matter, and rarely meat matter. Research their foraging habits on the species you are keeping. If not in intensive housing, these birds can eat non-poisonous fruit and veg, seed, grain, gamebird feed and crumble, and insects, such as crickets for protein. Grower crumbles are required for chicks. The amount of feed depends on the age and species of the bird. Never feed pheasants avocado, spoiled foods, high fat foods, chocolate and onion and garlic as they are toxic to your bird. Pheasants have specific dietary requirements at different stages of their life, so make sure to adjust their diet accordingly.

Climate

Adapt the temperature and climate of the pheasant species that you are caring for. Some pheasants live in cold climates, while others live in tropical or warm climates. If you have a choice, consider selecting species that are well-suited to your local climate to reduce the need for extreme climate control measures. Regularly observe pheasants to see if they're comfortable in your local climate. Incorporate natural elements like small trees, bushes and rocks to help regulate temperature and humidity in their enclosure. In hot climates, provide shade for your pheasants.

Enrichment

Pheasants need enrichment in their enclosure to be healthy and happy. Provide perches, hiding spots and dust baths for your pheasants. However, enrichment depends on the species you are looking after. Pheasants are often curious and may be intrigued by mirrors or shiny objects placed in their environment. Ensure these objects are safe and securely mounted. Offer pheasant-safe toys and puzzle feeders that dispense treats when manipulated. These can keep them mentally engaged. Hang a piece of fruit or vegetable from a string or rope as a piñata. Pheasants can peck at it to get to the treat inside. Play natural sounds or recordings of their calls or the sounds of their native habitat to create a more engaging auditory environment. Change and rotate the enrichment items regularly to prevent habituation and keep their interest piqued. Add dust baths to their enclosure as they like to enjoy them.

Some pheasant species are social birds, so consider housing them in pairs or small coveys to allow for social interactions. However, be cautious about compatibility and potential aggression. Hide small treats such as mealworms in various locations within their enclosure to encourage exploration and hunting behavior. Instead of placing food in a bowl, scatter it on the ground to encourage pheasants to search for it, simulating natural foraging. Introduce novel objects or items that they haven't seen before to pique their curiosity. Native grasses, small trees, rocks and bushes are required for your pheasant enclosure, as it mimics their natural habitat. Safety is paramount, so ensure that all items introduced into the enclosure are non-toxic and free from sharp edges or potential hazards.


Breeding

Pheasants are seasonal breeders. The ratio for breeding pheasants should be one male every six females. Provide a suitable enclosure or aviary for breeding pheasants. Ensure it has ample space, proper shelter, nesting sites and protection from predators. Separate cocks and hens until you are ready for breeding to prevent aggression. Select healthy pheasants that are at the appropriate breeding age. This age can vary between species but is generally around one year old for most pheasants. When you are ready to breed, introduce the cock and hen pheasants to each other. Monitor their behavior for compatibility and ensure there is no excessive aggression. Provide suitable nesting boxes or areas with nesting material (e.g., straw or wood shavings) where the hen can lay her eggs. Different pheasant species have varying preferences for nesting sites. Collect the pheasant eggs from the nest box. Pheasant eggs typically require incubation. You can use an incubator or allow the hen to incubate the eggs naturally if she shows a strong desire to do so. Maintain the appropriate temperature and humidity levels according to the species-specific requirements during incubation. Keep records of breeding dates, egg production and incubation. Incubation lasts for 25 days. Or simply let the mother brood her eggs.

Chick care

Like baby chickens, pheasant chicks are fragile and vulnerable offspring. Prepare a clean, safe and draft-free brooding area before the chicks arrive. This can be a brooder box, a small indoor coop or a well-protected section of an enclosure with proper heating. Maintain a consistent temperature in the brooding area. Start with a temperature of around 35-38°C for the first week and gradually decrease it by 2.9°C per week until they are fully feathered, usually around 6-8.5 weeks of age. Use heating pads to provide warmth, but ensure that the chicks have space to move away from the heat source if they become too warm. Use clean, dry bedding material, such as wood shavings, straw or paper towels, to provide a soft and comfortable surface for the chicks. Keep the brooding area clean and dry. You can raise chicks in the outdoors if you want. Change the bedding regularly to prevent the buildup of moisture and the development of harmful bacteria. Provide a constant supply of fresh, clean water in shallow containers that are easy for the chicks to access. Use chick waterers to prevent drowning.

Feed them a high-quality chick starter feed with around 24-28% protein. Ensure that the feed is appropriate for pheasant chicks and does not contain medications or additives. Offer food to the chicks immediately upon arrival. Chicks should have access to food and water at all times. Monitor their eating habits, and adjust the feeding schedule based on their appetite. They should be active and eating regularly. Provide small-sized chick grit to aid in digestion. Grit helps chicks break down food in their gizzard. Put the grit in a separate dish for those that need it.

Consult with a veterinarian or poultry expert to determine if any specific supplements are needed, such as vitamins or electrolytes, depending on the condition of the chicks and your location. Spend time observing and handling the chicks daily to help them become more accustomed to human contact. Gentle, regular handling can lead to friendlier adult pheasants. Ensure that the brooding area has adequate space for the chicks to move arouns and exercise. Good ventilation is also essential to maintain air quality. Make sure the brooding area is secure and protected from potential predators such as rats, snakes, and birds of prey. Regularly check the chicks for signs of illness, stress, or injury. If you notice any issues, consult with a veterinarian who specializes in poultry.

As the chicks grow and develop feathers, gradually acclimate them to outdoor conditions. Provide a secure outdoor enclosure with proper shelter and protection from predators. Transition the chicks to a lower-protein grower feed as they mature. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for the specific feed you are using. Keep detailed records of your chicks' growth, health and any observations to help track their development.

Diseases

Many pheasants are susceptible to various diseases such as bird flu, Marek's disease and others. It's important to track the health of your birds. Here are some diseases and their symptoms.

1. Avian influenza (Bird flu):
   • Symptoms: Sudden death, respiratory distress, coughing, sneezing, nasal discharge, swelling of the head and neck, drop in egg production (in laying hens).
   • Prevention: Strict biosecurity measures, vaccination (if recommended) and reporting any suspicious deaths to authorities.
2. Newcastle disease:
   • Symptoms: Respiratory signs, nervous system signs, diarrhoea, drop in egg production (in laying hens), sudden death.
   • Prevention: Vaccination, good biosecurity practices and isolation of sick birds.
3. Coccidiosis:
   • Symptoms: Diarrhoea, weight loss, reduced growth, weakness, sometimes death.
   • Prevention: Maintain clean living conditions, control humidity and provide medicated feed if necessary.
4. Marek's disease:
   • Symptoms: Paralysis, lameness, weight loss, tumors.
   • Prevention: Vaccination, good biosecurity practices and avoiding mixing pheasants with other poultry.
5. Aspergillosis:
   • Symptoms: Respiratory distress, coughing, sneezing, nasal discharge, lethargy.
   • Prevention: Maintain good ventilation, avoid damp conditions and keep the environment clean and dry.
6. Fowl cholera:
   • Symptoms: Sudden death, respiratory signs, diarrhoea, nasal discharge, swollen wattles and joints.
   • Prevention: Biosecurity measures, vaccination, and prompt isolation and treatment of sick birds.
7. Blackhead disease (Histomoniasis):
   • Symptoms: Depression, diarrhoea, lethargy, weight loss, yellowish discoloration of the head.
   • Prevention: Maintain clean living conditions, control caecal worm infestations in the environment and use medications if necessary.
8. Egg drop syndrome (EDS):
   • Symptoms: A drop in egg production, soft-shelled or misshapen eggs.
   • Prevention: Vaccination, biosecurity measures and control of vectors like flies.
9. Botulism:
   • Symptoms: Weakness, paralysis, drooping wings, difficulty breathing.
   • Prevention: Maintain clean water sources, remove any decaying organic matter and avoid overcrowding.
10. Respiratory infections:
    • Symptoms: Sneezing, coughing, nasal discharge, labored breathing.
    • Prevention: Good ventilation, isolation of sick birds and treatment with antibiotics when necessary.

Raising pheasants for meat (and how to cull them)

Warning: This section will mention graphic pheasant slaughter. If you're sensitive or squeamish, don't read this section.

Raising pheasants for meat is a rewarding experience for expert pheasant keepers. Common (ring-necked) pheasants are commonly culled for their meat. You can purchase day-old pheasant chicks from reputable hatcheries. Make sure the chicks are healthy and disease-free. Raise them like normal pheasant chicks (see chick care) until they're old enough to be culled for meat. When they are ready to be culled for meat, here are the equipment you will need:

1. Killing cone: You can purchase one or make it yourself. It's typically a funnel-shaped cone made of sturdy material like metal or plastic.
2. Sharp knife or poultry processing shears
3. A large pot of boiling water or a propane torch for scalding
4. A container for collecting feathers and offal
5. Gloves for hygiene and safety
6. A clean, flat work surface

Set up the killing cone in a stable and secure manner, either by attaching it to a wall or using a stand. Ensure that the cone is large enough to comfortably fit the pheasant you're processing. Capture the pheasant you intend to cull in a gentle and stress-free manner. This can be done by hand or with a net if necessary. Hold the pheasant by their legs with their head facing down. Carefully insert the bird head-first into the killing cone, allowing their neck to extend through the narrow end of the cone. The pheasant should be securely restrained in the cone, with their head and neck exposed. Before you proceed, ensure that the pheasant is calm and properly restrained in the cone. You can either stun the pheasant by giving them a sharp blow to the head using a blunt object or by using a specific poultry stunning tool. This step is essential to reduce suffering. After stunning, the pheasant should be unconscious but is still alive.

Using a sharp knife or poultry processing shears, make a quick cut across the pheasant's throat, severing the jugular vein. Ensure you make a clean and deep cut to ensure rapid blood loss. Allow the blood to drain completely into the container below the killing cone. Wait for a few minutes to ensure that the pheasant has completely bled out. After bleeding, check for any signs of life, such as movement or reflexes. Make sure the pheasant is completely deceased. If you plan to pluck the feathers rather than skinning the pheasant, you can scald the bird in boiling water or use a propane torch to loosen the feathers. Scalding typically takes about a minute to two minutes. Pluck the feathers or skin the pheasant as desired using a plucking machine. Remove the head, neck and feet. Eviscerate and clean the bird thoroughly. Chill the processed pheasant immediately in a cooler with ice or in a refrigerator. You can have roast pheasant or have delicious dishes such as gamekeepers' pie.

Species/breed profile: Lady Amherst's pheasant


About the species



Lady Amherst's pheasant (Chrysolophus amherstiae) is a fascinating species of pheasant native to China and Myanmar. The species is named after Sarah Countess Amherst, the wife of William Pitt Amherst, the governor-general of India in the early 19th century. The Amhersts were avid collectors of natural history specimens. The male Lady Amherst's pheasant is highly distinctive with his long, sweeping tail feathers that can reach up to three feet in length. These tail feathers are adorned with striking metallic green and blue bands and end in a bold, white eyespot pattern, with two orange feathers on each side of the tail. The rest of the body is primarily black, with an iridescent green head, white throats and red face wattles. Females, on the other hand, are less colourful and have mottled brown plumage which helps them camouflage in the bushes.



This species can be kept in large aviaries and enclosures larger than 360 square feet of space per male bird, and 200 square feet per female bird. Females are 68cm while males are a whopping 120cm in length, the tail feathers accounting for 70cm-80cm in length. The clutch number of eggs is 6-12 for a female pheasant to lay every year. These birds are known to be living at mountains in an altitude of 6000 to 15,000 feet in bamboo thickets. There has been a feral population in the United Kingdom, especially its main island. These pheasants are relatively easy to keep in captivity, but this bird needs more space than other pheasants, as the males are very large and long. This bird is usually kept for ornamental purposes.






PEAFOWL

Housing

You can keep peafowl either free-range or in a special enclosure designed for them. A rural area with a large plot of land is the best area for these large pheasants. However if you live in an area full of predators, a extra large aviary or pen is best suited for them. The optimal pen size for peafowl are 12-15 feet in length and 4-8 feet in height with netting as a roof to prevent them from flying out. 160 square feet are recommended per bird. Make sure the enclosure is protected from predators. peafowl are social birds, so keep them in a pair or in a small muster (group). Make sure there are feeders and waterers, and a large coop in your enclosure for the peahens to lay their eggs.

Feeding

Like pheasants, peafowl are omnivorous. Their natural diet consists of seeds, grains, fruits, insects, small rodents and small reptiles. Provide them with high-protein feed to keep them healthy. Look for a feed with at least 16-18% protein content for growing birds and 14-16% for adults. In addition to many commercial feeds, offer fresh fruits and vegetables. Peafowls enjoy fruits like apples, pears, grapes and berries, as well as vegetables like lettuce, spinach and carrots. You can also include insects such as mealworms, crickets, and earthworms in their diet. Insects provide essential protein for your birds. Peafowl need grit to aid their digestion cycle. Don't feed birds high fat foods, chocolate, garlic, avocado and spoiled foods.


Colouration

The colouration of peafowl are complex. There are sexual dimorphism, like any other pheasants. Male birds (peacocks) are renowned for their brilliant and iridescent plumage, which includes the detailed and complex eyespots on their long tail feathers. These eyespots are not actual eyes but serve to attract females during courtship displays. These such colours are a result of microscopic platelets in the feathers that diffract light, creating the vivid, colourful hues. In contrast, female birds (peahens) have more subdued and cryptic plumage. Their colouration is typically brown and mottled, which helps them blend into their surroundings when nesting and caring for their chicks. This camouflage protects them from predators while they incubate eggs and raise their peachicks. The quality and vibrancy of a peacock's plumage can also indicate their age and overall health. Older, healthier peacocks tend to have more vibrant and symmetrical plumage, which makes them more attractive to peahens.

Enrichment

Like all poultry and other domestic animals, they need some enrichment in their enclosure in order to make them happy. Scatter their food in different areas of their enclosure, encouraging them to forage. Use puzzle feeders or treat balls to make them work for their food. Hang fruits or vegetables just out of reach, encouraging them to jump or stretch to get their treats. Add some natural elements like logs, branches, or rocks for them to perch on and explore. Plant some vegetation to mimic their natural habitat. Peafowl often enjoy browsing on leaves and insects. Provide a designated area filled with sand or dust for them to bathe in, as they enjoy dust bathing. Some peafowl are curious about their reflection and can enjoy looking at themselves. Hang objects like shiny toys or wind chimes for them to investigate. Peafowl are social birds, so providing them with companions of their own kind can be enriching. However, be cautious about introducing new birds, as they can be territorial. Change the layout of their enclosure or introduce new objects periodically to keep their environment fresh and interesting. Some peafowl enjoy splashing in shallow water. Providing a small, shallow pool or a birdbath can be stimulating. Playing recordings of natural sounds like rain, other peafowl or insects can engage their senses. Hide small treats, insects or seeds around their enclosure for them to find. Train them to respond to cues or commands. This can provide mental stimulation and enhance the bond between you and your birds. Spend time observing their natural behaviors. This can be enriching for you as well as for them.


Breeding

Peafowl, like other pheasants, can be difficult to breed unless you follow these steps. Start with healthy and mature peafowl. Peacocks typically reach sexual maturity at around 2 to 3 years of age, while peahens mature a bit earlier. Ensure you have suitable housing for breeding pairs, including nesting areas for peahens. Each breeding pair should have its own separate space to reduce stress and competition. Peafowl generally breed during the spring and summer months. They are more likely to display mating behaviors and lay eggs during this time. Peacocks have elaborate courtship displays, including fanning their large tail feathers and making vocalisations. Watch for signs that a peacock is courting a peahen. Allow breeding pairs to spend time together. It's common for a peacock to have several peahens in his harem, so provide space for this social structure.

Peahens will need a secure and private area to lay their eggs. Nesting boxes filled with straw or shavings can provide a suitable environment. Peahens may lay a clutch of eggs, with the typical clutch size being 4-6 eggs. They can incubate their eggs naturally, or you can collect the eggs and use an incubator to hatch them. Natural incubation typically takes around 28-30 days. Ensure that peahens have access to fresh food and water during the incubation period. Protect the eggs from predators and maintain proper humidity levels during incubation if using an incubator.

Peachick care

Peachicks are the term for baby peafowl. You can purchase them from the poultry expert or buy fertile eggs from an egg farm. Create a safe and warm brooder for the peachicks. You can use a large cardboard box or a plastic tub, or make your own enclosure for them. Make sure it has a secure lid to prevent escapes and protect them from drafts. Peachicks need to be kept warm, especially during the first few weeks. Use a heat pad to maintain a temperature of around 35°C in one area of the brooder. Gradually reduce the temperature by 2.7°C each week until they are fully feathered. Line the brooder with a soft and absorbent bedding material such as pine shavings or straw. This will help keep the area clean and comfortable for the chicks. Keep the brooder clean by regularly removing soiled bedding and replacing it with fresh material. This will prevent the buildup of harmful bacteria. However, you can raise your peachicks outdoors for a better effect than raising them indoors.

Feed the peachicks a high-quality game bird feed with at least 24% protein. You can also offer finely chopped greens or herbs for additional nutrients. Make sure they have access to fresh, clean water at all times. Provide access to small pebbles or grit, as peachicks need them to help digest their food. Spend time with the peachicks daily to interact with them and build trust. Gentle handling and talking to them can help them become more comfortable around humans. Ensure that the brooder is not overcrowded, as this can lead to stress and aggression among the chicks. Provide enough space for them to move around comfortably. Keep a close eye on the health of the peachicks. Look for signs of illness, such as lethargy, or labored breathing. If you suspect any health issues, consult a veterinarian experienced in avian and poultry care. When the peachicks are fully feathered and the weather is warm, gradually transition them to an outdoor pen or coop. Make sure they are protected from predators. Peafowl are known for their love of perching. Provide sturdy perches or branches for the peachicks as they grow. Peafowl like to roost off the ground at night. If you plan to keep your peachicks with other poultry or peafowl, introduce them gradually to avoid aggression from older birds. Every peachick is unique, so pay attention to their individual needs. Keep detailed records of your peachicks and their behaviours as they grow up.

Diseases

Peafowl are vulnerable to some fatal diseases; you must check their health every day or few days to see they're in good spirits. Here are some diseases that affect many peafowl:

1. Avian influenza (bird flu): Peafowl, like other birds, can be affected by avian influenza, which can range from mild to severe and is highly contagious.
2. Newcastle disease: This is a highly contagious viral infection that affects many species of birds, including peafowl. Symptoms can include respiratory distress, nervous system signs and even death.
3. Coccidiosis: Coccidiosis is a parasitic disease caused by protozoa called coccidia. It can affect the intestines of peafowl, mostly causing diarrhoea, weight loss and general weakness.
4. Aspergillosis: This fungal infection can affect the respiratory system of peafowl and is often associated with poor ventilation and high humidity in their living environment.
5. Marek's disease: Marek's disease is a viral disease that primarily affects chickens, but peafowl can also be carriers. It can cause paralysis, tumours and immunosuppression.
6. Blackhead disease (histomoniasis): Their effects are similar to many pheasant species, including peafowl. Blackhead disease is caused by a protozoan parasite called Histomonas meleagridis. It can lead to liver damage, and can be fatal if not treated.
7. Botulism: Peafowl, like other landfowl, can be susceptible to botulism, a bacterial infection that can lead to paralysis and death.
8. Worm infestations: Peafowl can be affected by various internal parasites, including roundworms, tapeworms and flukes. These parasites can cause weight loss, diarrhoea and other health issues.
9. Respiratory infections: Peafowl can develop respiratory infections, especially in crowded or unsanitary conditions. These infections can be caused by bacteria or viruses and may result in coughing, nasal discharge and difficulty breathing.
10. External parasites: Peafowl can also suffer from external parasites such as mites and lice, which can cause feather loss, skin irritation and general discomfort.

Species profile: Indian peafowl

It's easy to know why the Indian peafowl is a famous blue bird. The Indian peafowl holds cultural and religious significance in India, where it is the national bird, and in countries that support Hinduism. It is often associated with Hindu mythology and is considered a symbol of beauty and grace. These large pheasants are native to the Indian subcontinent. Indian peafowl are bred to come in different colours, such as white. They are found in moist, deciduous forests in 5900 feet above sea level, but in rare cases, 6600 feet above sea level. The bird became very common when it was domesticated centuries ago and spread across the world. There are many varieties of this peafowl, including black shouldered varieties with blue tails.

TURKEYS


The beginning...

Turkeys are a lifelong commitment. These birds need the best care possible- always research the bird before adopting them into your farm. They usually cost $50 or more, depending on the breed you are purchasing. They are legal to own in the United States and around the world, however check your local regulations before owning them.

Housing

Turkeys are large birds; you need a large enclosure designed for them. You will need a minimum of 30 square feet of outdoor space per bird, with predator-proof fencing from all sides, as well as overhead. Dirt can be used as bedding for the enclosure, as well as straw or wood shavings. Be cautious of straw and wood shavings as small pieces may be inhaled by your birds and lead to lung damage. For a rafter (group of turkeys) of turkeys, you will need a much larger enclosure to suit their needs. A large barn or shed can be used as a coop for female turkeys, this is a consideration if you want to breed turkeys. You will need perches, logs, natural objects, food and water dishes for your enclosure to make your turkeys happy.

Feeding

Turkeys are omnivorous, so give them some quality feed (turkey feed), grit and fresh fruit and vegetables. For poults provide them with a commercial turkey starter feed containing around 30% protein. This feed is essential for their growth and development during the first few weeks of life As turkeys mature, switch to a turkey grower feed with a lower protein content, typically approximately 16%. This feed should be given from about 6 weeks of age until they are ready for processing or laying eggs. If you have turkey hens and plan to have them lay eggs, switch to a turkey layer feed that contains the necessary nutrients for egg production, including calcium. This is typically fed to mature hens. Always provide clean and fresh water to your turkeys. Water is essential for their digestion and overall health. Turkeys can consume grains like corn, wheat, barley and oats as part of their diet. However, these should be supplemental and not the primary source of nutrition. Turkeys can eat a variety of vegetables and fruits, such as leafy greens, carrots, pumpkin and apples, in moderation. These can provide additional nutrients and enrichment. Turkeys are natural foragers and enjoy eating insects and grubs. Allowing them access to grassy areas can help them find natural food sources. In some cases, you may need to provide supplements like grit (small stones) to help turkeys with digestion, especially if they are not allowed to forage freely. Do not feed turkeys processed meats, chocolate, avocado, rhubarb, nightshade, mouldy foods and medicated feeds, unless prescribed by a vet.

Enrichment

Turkeys, like many companion animals, including pheasants and other poultry, need enrichment to make them happy. Scatter grains, seeds or insects in their enclosure to encourage natural foraging behavior. Hang vegetables or fruits on strings or wires at various heights for turkeys to peck at and play with. Large balls or objects they can push and play with can provide entertainment. Mirrors can intrigue and entertain turkeys as they are curious about their reflection. Place logs, small stumps or branches in their enclosure for turkeys to perch on or scratch against. This also provides opportunities for exercise. Provide a dust bath area with fine sand or dust that turkeys can use for dusting, which helps keep their feathers clean and controls parasites. Plant native grasses, shrubs or small trees in their enclosure to create a more natural environment. Turkeys can seek shelter, forage and explore these areas.

They are social poultry birds. Keeping them in groups or pairs can provide them with social interaction and reduce stress. If possible, rotate their enclosure periodically to provide fresh ground for foraging and prevent soil depletion. Place simple obstacle courses or tunnels with logs, boards or PVC pipes for turkeys to explore and navigate. Hide food in puzzle toys or containers that turkeys must figure out how to open or manipulate to access the treats. Turkeys are curious about different sounds and objects. You can occasionally introduce mild, non-threatening noises or new visual stimuli to keep them engaged. Occasionally introduce new items, like colorful objects or different textures to their environment to pique their interest. Spend time interacting with your turkeys. They can be trained to respond to commands, which provides mental stimulation for both you and the birds.

Breeding

Turkeys need a ratio of 1 tom to every 10 hens to produce fertile eggs. Choose healthy, mature turkeys for breeding. Look for birds that are free from diseases, deformities or genetic defects. Select birds with desirable traits like good size and temperament. Avoid closely related turkeys to prevent inbreeding, as it can lead to health problems in the offspring. Provide a clean, dry, and well-ventilated housing for your turkeys. Ensure adequate space to prevent overcrowding. Keep the environment free from drafts, extreme temperatures, and humidity fluctuations, as these can negatively affect turkey reproduction. Control the lighting in the turkey house to simulate natural daylight hours. This helps regulate the turkeys' reproductive cycles. Gradually increase the daily light exposure to around 16 hours of light per day to encourage mating behavior and egg production. Introduce the tom and hen turkeys when they reach the appropriate age and size for breeding. Keep an eye on the turkeys to ensure that mating is taking place. Turkey mating involves the tom puffing up, displaying his feathers, and strutting in front of the hen. If the hen is receptive, she will squat down, allowing the tom to mount her. Once the hens lay eggs, collect them promptly to prevent damage or contamination. If you want to hatch the eggs, place them in a clean and appropriately humidified incubator at the correct temperature (usually around 37-37.8°C). Follow the manufacturer's guidelines for incubation. Maintain proper humidity and temperature during incubation.

Poult care

Poult is a term for a baby turkey. They are fragile, like any baby poultry bird. Therefore, they require special care as chicken and pheasant chicks and peachicks. Start by setting up a brooder, which is a warm and safe enclosure for the poults. However, you can alternatively raise poults in the outdoors in the turkey coop. A brooder can be a cardboard box, plastic container or a specially designed brooder box Maintain a consistent temperature in the brooder. Use a heat brooder to provide warmth. The initial temperature should be around 35-38°C for the first week and then gradually reduce it by 2-3°C per week until they are fully feathered. Line the brooder with clean and dry bedding material, such as straw or wood shavings. Change the bedding regularly to keep it clean and dry. Provide fresh, clean water in shallow containers that the poults can easily access. Use a poultry waterer to prevent them from drowning. Feed them with a high-quality turkey starter feed. This feed is specially formulated to meet the nutritional needs of young turkeys. You can also add some finely chopped greens or vegetables to their diet. Provide 24-hour light for the first few days to help the poults find food and water. Afterward, you can switch to a 16-hour light cycle. Keep detailed records for your poults as they grow up to be attractive turkeys.



Diseases

Like other poultry, turkeys are vulnerable to diseases including:

1. Mycoplasma gallisepticum (MG): This is a bacterial infection that primarily affects the respiratory system of turkeys. Infected birds may exhibit respiratory signs such as sneezing, coughing, and nasal discharge.
2. Coccidiosis: Coccidia are parasitic protozoa that can infect the intestines of turkeys, causing symptoms like diarrhoea, reduced growth, and sometimes death.
3. Aspergillosis: This fungal infection is caused by the inhalation of Aspergillus spores. It can affect the respiratory system and lead to respiratory distress and even death.
4. Newcastle disease: Although more commonly associated with chickens, turkeys can also be affected by Newcastle disease, which is caused by a paramyxovirus. Infected birds may show respiratory, nervous system and digestive system signs, and it can be highly contagious.
5. Avian influenza: Avian influenza viruses can infect turkeys, leading to respiratory and digestive symptoms. Some strains of avian influenza can be highly contagious and may pose a risk to both poultry and humans.
6. Turkey rhinotracheitis (TRT): This viral disease primarily affects the respiratory system of turkeys, leading to nasal discharge, coughing and sneezing. It can negatively impact growth and egg production.
7. Infectious bronchitis: This viral disease primarily affects the respiratory and reproductive systems of turkeys. Symptoms may include respiratory distress and poor egg quality.
8. Erysipelas: Caused by the bacterium Erysipelothrix rhusiopathiae, this disease can cause skin lesions, joint inflammation and sometimes sudden death in turkeys.
9. Salmonellosis: Various salmonella strains can infect turkeys, leading to symptoms such as diarrhoea, dehydration and sometimes death. It can also be a concern from a food safety perspective.
10. Turkey enteritis complex (TEC): TEC is a collective term for a group of viral and bacterial infections that affect the gastrointestinal tract of turkeys. It can lead to diarrhea, reduced growth and death.

Raising turkeys for meat

Warning: This section contains slaughtering turkeys. If you're sensitive or squeamish, skip this section.

Raising domestic turkeys for meat is a great way to have your Christmas or Thanksgiving roast. The most common colour for meat turkeys is white. Raise the turkeys like you would do until they're old enough (between 9 and 21 weeks old) to be culled for meat. It's like culling other poultry for your roast dish. You'll need a killing cone or killing board, clean equipment and a sharp knife. Carefully put the turkey upside down into the killing cone. Make sure the bird is properly restrained. Stun the turkey using a blunt object to make them unconscious, but alive. Cut the turkey's throat (jugular vein near the trachea) and let it bleed in the container below the killing cone. Boil the now deceased bird into boiling hot water for 1-2 minutes to pluck the feathers out, or use a plucking machine. Eviscerate and clean the bird thoroughly. Immediately chill the processed turkey in a cooler full of ice for future use.

Breed profile: Bronze

The Bronze (Bronze Broadbreast turkey) is a common heritage breed of turkey originating in England. This breed had dominated the turkey industry until the Broad Breasted White came to its place. Such birds of the Broad Breasted Bronze no longer bred naturally and artificial insemination was required for these turkeys. There are two types of Bronze: Standard and Broad-Breasted. The standard Bronze is listed as 'critical' in the ALBC (Livestock Conservancy) because of declining numbers, however the number of the Broad-Breasted variant remain unknown.


GUINEA-FOWL




The beginning...

Guinea-fowl usually costs $5-$10 dollars per keet (chick), and $20-$25 per adult, but that depends on the country you live in. You can get keets from most chicken hatcheries, so they will be plentiful in here. It is better to raise keets than adults, since they will fly away when you don't secure the coop properly or don't have a netted roof. There are many varieties of guinea-fowl, so some varieties are more expensive than others.

Housing

Your guinea-fowl will need an enclosure much larger than their bodies. A run that is 95cm in length and a coop that is 1m x 1m x 1m in size would be good for a small rasp (group of guinea-fowl) of guinea-fowl. These fowl are somewhat large, but the enclosure depends on the number of birds you are keeping. Add absorbent bedding such as wood shaving and straw in the enclosure. Make sure you have enough good ventilation to your enclosure to prevent moisture and mould from coming in. Normal chicken nest boxes or larger are used for your guinea-fowl to lay their eggs. However, some fowl do not like using nest boxes, they will lay their eggs from different places in the enclosure. You can even keep them free-range if you want.

Feeding

Guinea-fowl need to be fed every day in order to survive. They can be fed a high-quality commercial poultry feed specifically designed for game birds or poultry. These feeds are formulated to meet their nutritional needs at different stages of growth. In addition to commercial feed, you can supplement their diet with grains like corn, wheat, and millet. These grains can be given as treats but should not make up more than 10-20% of their diet. Guinea-fowl can eat a variety of fruits and vegetables, including leafy greens, carrots, apples, and berries. These should be given in moderation as treats. Guinea-fowl are excellent foragers and will happily eat insects, worms, and small invertebrates they find in the environment. This natural foraging behavior is good for their overall health. Provide them with grit or small stones to aid in digestion. Grit helps grind down food in their gizzard. Don't feed guinea-fowl avocado, chocolate, rhubarb, processed foods and spoiled eggs.

Enrichment

These polka-dotted birds are curious animals, provide them the best enrichment you can give to them. Provide mirrors for your birds to look at their reflection. Scatter bird feed to help them do their natural foraging behaviours. Hang pecking blocks or blocks with edible herbs from their enclosure. These not only provide a nutritional treat but also encourage pecking behaviours. If your guinea-fowl are in a larger, more naturalistic enclosure, consider planting native shrubs or providing bushes and tall grasses. These offer hiding places and encourage many natural behaviours. Provide a dust-bathing area for them by adding fine dirt or sand. Install wooden roosts and perches at various heights to allow them to perch from high places. Add a grazing area for your enclosure so your birds will look for grass seeds.


Breeding

Guinea-fowl are somewhat easy to breed if you have done your research. Breeding these birds are very good for your rasp of guinea-fowl and creating generations of birds from that group. Choose healthy, birds for breeding. They should be at least one year old. Select birds with desirable traits, such as good size, strong and disease-free bodies, and vibrant plumage. Ensure a balanced sex ratio, typically one male (cock) for every three to five females (hens). Provide a clean and well-maintained coop or enclosure with nesting boxes and roosting space. Provide adequate ventilation and protection from predators. Guinea-fowl are known to be independent and prefer to free-range during the day, so allow them access to a secure outdoor area. During the breeding season (usually in the spring), the males will display courtship behaviors, including loud calls and strutting. Guinea-fowl generally mate naturally when ready. Ensure that there is privacy in the nesting areas for successful mating. They often lay their eggs in hidden or secluded nests on the ground. Provide suitable nesting materials like straw or hay. Collect eggs daily to prevent them from getting dirty or damaged. Guinea fowl can be left to incubate their eggs naturally, or you can use an incubator. If you are using an incubator, maintain proper temperature (37-38°C) and humidity levels. Follow the manufacturer's instructions. The incubation period is approximately 26-28 days.

Keet care

Guinea-fowl keets are raised in a similar manner to other poultry young. Use a brooder box or area that is safe from drafts, predators and hotter or colder temperatures. Provide a heat source such as a heat lamp or brooder plate to maintain a temperature of around 35°C for the first week. Gradually reduce the temperature by 2-3°C each week until the keets are fully feathered. Use a soft and absorbent bedding material like wood shavings or straw to keep the brooder clean and dry. Provide a high-quality game bird starter feed with at least 24% protein. Crush the feed into smaller pieces for the first few days to make it easier for the keets to eat. Ensure access to clean, fresh water at all times. Use a shallow dish or chick waterer to prevent drowning. Ensure that the keets have enough space to move around. Crowding can lead to stress and aggression in your keets. Keep them in a brooder for the first 6-8 weeks before transitioning to an outdoor enclosure. Guinea-fowl keets are vulnerable to predators, so make sure the brooder or outdoor enclosure is secure with a cover or fencing. Raise the keets in a secure area until they are old enough to fend for themselves. Keep a close eye on the health of your keets. Watch for signs of illness, injury, or stress. Quarantine any new keets before introducing them to the existing rasp to prevent the spread of diseases. Guinea-fowl keets love to take dust baths to keep their feathers clean and free of parasites. Provide a shallow container with dust or sand for them to use.

Diseases
Like any other poultry, guinea-fowl can be susceptible to sometimes fatal diseases, so it's important to take your birds to the vet or poultry expert and see if they have any of these diseases:

1. Newcastle disease: Newcastle disease is a highly contagious viral disease that affects a wide range of birds and poultry, including guinea-fowl. Symptoms include respiratory distress, nervous system signs and a drop in egg production. Vaccination is essential to prevent Newcastle disease.
2. Avian influenza (bird flu): Avian influenza is another viral disease that can affect guinea-fowl and other poultry. It can cause a wide range of symptoms, including respiratory distress, swelling of the head, neck and eyes, and a drop in egg production. There are different strains of avian influenza, some of which can be highly pathogenic. Biosecurity measures and vaccination can help prevent its spread.
3. Coccidiosis: Coccidiosis is a parasitic disease caused by protozoa. It can affect the digestive system of guinea-fowl, leading to symptoms like diarrhoea, weight loss and reduced growth. Good sanitation and the use of coccidiosis medications or preventatives can help control this disease.
4. Blackhead (histomoniasis): Blackhead is a disease caused by the protozoan parasite Histomonas meleagridis. It can affect their liver and cecum, leading to symptoms like listlessness, droopiness and greenish-black diarrhoea. Preventing contact with infected guinea-fowl and maintaining good hygiene can help prevent this disease.
5. Erysipelas: Erysipelas is a bacterial infection caused by Erysipelothrix rhusiopathiae. It can lead to symptoms such as lameness, some swollen joints and skin lesions. Proper sanitation and antibiotic treatment can be used to manage Erysipelas.
6. Fowl cholera: Fowl cholera is caused by the bacterium Pasteurella multocida. It can result in symptoms such as respiratory distress, nasal discharge and swollen joints. Good biosecurity practices and vaccination can help prevent fowl cholera.
7. Mycoplasma infections: Mycoplasma gallisepticum and Mycoplasma synoviae are two common Mycoplasma species that can affect many poultry, including guinea-fowl. They can cause respiratory problems, swollen sinuses and decreased egg production. Good biosecurity and testing for Mycoplasma infections can be essential for prevention.
8. External parasites: Guinea-fowl can also suffer from external parasites such as mites and lice, which can cause skin irritation and feather loss. Regular inspection and appropriate treatments are necessary to control these parasites.
9. Internal parasites: Internal parasites like worms, for example, roundworms and tapeworms, can affect guinea-fowls' digestive health. Deworming and good sanitation practices can help prevent internal parasitic infections in guinea-fowl.
10. Coryza: This bacterial infection can cause nasal discharge, swollen eyes and difficulty breathing.

QUAIL





The beginning...

Quail are easy to find in egg farms and poultry stores. They are generally cheaper than chickens and they cost $1-$5 or more, depending on the species you are looking after for and the age of the bird. It will also depend on the location you live in. Quail are popular for poultry keepers because of their small size and their dual purpose for eggs and meat.

Housing

The general rule of keeping quail is 1-2 square feet of space per bird in your enclosure or coop with 12 inches in height. Rabbit hutches can be converted into your quails' home if you're keeping a very small bevy (group of quail) of them. If you're keeping a larger bevy of quail, consider keeping them in a large chicken enclosure with a coop. A large enclosure will be required for that bevy, it gives them enough space to roam. You can keep a pair of quail in a normal, large aviary if you're picking some smaller species, such as Japanese quail and bobwhite quail.

Feeding

There are many good foods to feed your quail. Commercial quail feed is the most convenient and balanced option. You can find quail-specific feeds designed for different stages of their life, such as starter, grower and layer feeds. Game bird feed is another suitable option, as it's formulated for gamebirds such as quail and pheasants. It often contains higher protein levels for quail. Quail require a high-protein diet, especially during their growing and laying periods. You can include seeds like millet, sunflower seeds and others, and cracked corn in their diet. Quail are natural insect foragers, and you can supplement their diet with insects like mealworms, crickets and sometimes earthworms. These all provide essential protein. Offer a variety of leafy greens like kale, spinach, lettuce, and dandelion greens. These provide vitamins and minerals. You can give them small quantities of kitchen scraps like vegetable peels, but avoid anything toxic or spoiled. Provide tiny pebbles or commercial poultry grit to help quail grind their food in their gizzard. Ensure quail have access to clean and fresh water at all times. Do not feed quail raw beans, avocado, chocolate, high fat and processed food, large amounts of bread and garlic.

Enrichment

Quail are shy but curious, so provide them some enrichment in their enclosure. Provide a substrate in their enclosure that mimics their natural environment. A mix of sand and soil can be used. Quail enjoy dust bathing, which helps keep their feathers and skin healthy. Scatter their food on the ground or hide it in various places around their enclosure. This encourages natural foraging behavior. You can also use foraging toys or puzzle feeders designed for birds. Add plants, shrubs or grasses to their enclosure to provide hiding spots and visual barriers. This gives them a sense of security and makes the environment more interesting. Install branches or logs of different sizes and heights for perching and roosting. This allows them to rest and exercise their foot muscles. Provide nesting materials like straw, hay or leaves so they can engage in nesting. This is especially important if you're keeping quail for breeding purposes. Some quail can be curious about mirrors, and you could place one in their enclosure for them to investigate. Additionally, you can offer bird-safe toys like hanging mirrors or soft toys to peck at and interact with. Quail are social birds and often thrive when kept in small bevies. Providing them with companions of their own species can reduce stress and loneliness. Occasionally change the layout of their enclosure or add new items to keep things fresh and interesting for them. Playing recordings of natural sounds like bird calls or soft running water can help create a more enriching environment. Ensure that the enrichment items and materials you provide are safe for quail to interact with. Avoid any toxic substances or small objects that could be ingested.

Breeding

Set up the breeding enclosure 2 weeks before the breeding season (spring). Put it in a peaceful location away from predators. Choose healthy, disease-free quail for breeding. Look for birds that are active, alert, and free from any obvious signs of illness. It's also a good idea to have a balanced ratio of males to females (usually one male for every 2-3 females). Provide a suitable enclosure for your quail. Quail require nesting boxes or areas where they can lay their eggs. These boxes should be filled with clean, dry nesting material, such as straw, hay or shredded paper. Maintain proper lighting and temperature conditions. Quail generally require 14-16 hours of light per day to stimulate egg production. The temperature should be kept between 10-24°C depending on the quail species. Quail are known for their elaborate courtship displays. You'll often see the males displaying their feathers and making their distinctive calls to attract females. Ensure that the males have ample opportunity to mate with the females. Quail typically lay their eggs in the morning. Eggs should be collected daily to prevent them from getting dirty or damaged. Store them in a cool and dry place until you're ready to incubate them. If you want to hatch the eggs, you can use an incubator. The incubation period for quail eggs is usually around 17-18 days. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for your specific incubator model. Otherwise, you can let the female quail hatch her eggs all by herself. Keep detailed records of your breeding activities, including mating dates, egg production, hatch rates and any health issues. This information can be valuable for improving your quail breeding program.

Chick care

Quail chicks are slightly smaller than chicken chicks or peachicks. Quail chicks need a warm and secure environment, known as a brooder. Use a plastic or wooden box with high sides to prevent them from escaping and to retain heat. Line the bottom with a layer of clean, dry bedding, such as pine shavings or paper towels. They require a consistent source of heat to maintain their body temperature. A brooder pad is ideal. Hang it securely above one end of the brooder. Maintain a temperature of around 35-37.8°C for the first week and then gradually reduce it by about 2.8°C each week until they are fully feathered (usually around 4-6 weeks). Use a thermometer to monitor the temperature inside the brooder regularly. Watch the chicks' behaviour. If they huddle together, they may be too cold, and if they avoid the heat source, they may be too hot. Quail chicks need easy access to clean, fresh water. Use shallow waterers to prevent drowning. Feed them a high-quality game bird or quail starter feed that contains about 24-28% protein. You can also offer crushed eggshells or commercial oyster shell for calcium. Initially, quail chicks should be fed a high-protein starter feed 24 hours a day. As they grow you can reduce feeding times to 12-14 hours per day. Provide small, shallow dishes for feed to minimize waste and make it easier for the chicks to eat. Keep an eye on the chicks for any signs of illness or distress, such as listlessness, lethargy or pasty bottom (blockage of their vent with faeces). Address any issues such as these promptly. Regularly clean and change the bedding to maintain a clean and hygienic brooder. Clean the water and feed containers daily to prevent contamination. As quail chicks grow, they will need more space. Gradually increase the size of their brooder to prevent overcrowding. Handle the chicks gently and interact with them regularly to help them become more comfortable around people. When the chicks are fully feathered and the weather is appropriate, usually around 4-6 weeks old, you can transition them to an outdoor enclosure or coop.

Diseases

Quail are also susceptible to diseases like any poultry. Some diseases can be fatal to quail. Diseases that affect quail include:

1. Coccidiosis: This is one of the most common and economically significant diseases in quail farming. It is caused by protozoan parasites of the genus Eimeria. Symptoms include diarrhoea, weight loss and reduced egg production.
2. Respiratory infections: Quail can suffer from respiratory diseases, including chronic respiratory disease (CRD) and infectious bronchitis. Symptoms include coughing, sneezing, nasal discharge and decreased egg production.
3. Newcastle disease: This is a highly contagious viral disease that affects a wide range of poultry, including quail. Symptoms include respiratory distress, nervous signs and a drop in egg production.
4. Avian influenza: Avian influenza is a highly contagious viral disease that can infect quail. Symptoms vary but can include respiratory signs, decreased egg production and high mortality rates.
5. Botulism: Quail can contract botulism from contaminated food or water. This can lead to paralysis, weakness, and death.
6. Salmonellosis: This bacterial infection can affect quails and is a concern for public health as well. Symptoms include diarrhea, lethargy, and decreased egg production.
7. Egg-bound: Sometimes, quail can experience difficulties laying eggs, leading to egg-binding. This condition can be life-threatening and requires prompt intervention.
8. Gout: Gout can occur in quail due to a diet high in purines, which can lead to the accumulation of uric acid crystals in the joints and organs. This can result in lameness and decreased mobility.
9. Parasitic infestations: Quail can suffer from various external and internal parasites, such as mites, some lice and internal worms. These parasites can lead to a range of health problems.
10. Heat stress: Quail are sensitive to heat stress, which can lead to decreased egg production and increased mortality. Proper ventilation and cooling measures are essential to prevent this condition.

Species profile: Japanese quail

The Japanese quail is an Old World Quail commonly found in captivity. These quails make popular pets because of their temperament, handiness and tend to lay a lot of eggs. They are inexpensive to keep and great for beginners too. They inhabit East Asia, including China, Japan, South Korea and eastern Russia. These quail are related to the common (European) quail because they are similar in colour and markings.

PIGEONS


The beginning...

You can adopt pigeons or buy them for a breeder-these are the two best methods of purchasing pigeons. Research the pigeon breed you are going to choose. Both of these methods cost $50-$400 depending on which breeder or shelter you are getting them from. It is important to research any breeder or shelter before purchasing pigeons. Initial setup and supplies cost $150 or more. Health care usually cost $10-$40 per month. Maintenance would cost $5-$20 per month. Pigeons are inexpensive to own and care for. Start by researching different pigeon breeds and their characteristics. Some common breeds kept as pets include homing pigeons, fancy pigeons and utility pigeons. Each breed has their own unique traits and requirements.



How to make a dovecote

You will need a dovecote or pigeon loft as your housing requirements for your birds. You can build a dovecote on the farmyard if you're handy. The size of the dovecote depends on how many pigeons you are keeping. Always research the design before building it. Here's how to build a dovecote:

1. Research and design: Determine the size and style of your dovecote based on the number of pigeons you plan to keep and your available space. Research different dovecote designs and select one that suits your preferences and the needs of your pigeons.
2. Gather materials and tools: Purchase all the necessary materials and tools for construction. You will need lumber, plywood, roofing material, nails, screws, wire mesh, insulation (optional), paint and the appropriate tools like saws, drills, hammers and screwdrivers.
3. Choosing your location: Select a suitable location for your dovecote. It should be well-ventilated, provide protection from predators and have some easy access for cleaning and maintenance. Ensure it's far enough away from neighbours to avoid disturbances.
4. Build the frame: Construct the frame of the dovecote using treated lumber. The frame should include walls, a roof and a floor. Ensure it's sturdy and well-braced to withstand the elements.
5. Add insulation: If you live in an area with extreme weather conditions, consider adding insulation to the walls and roof to provide a comfortable environment for your pigeons.
6. Install perches and nest boxes: Inside the dovecote, install perches and nesting boxes. Pigeons need comfortable places to roost and nest. Provide enough perches and nesting spaces for your pigeons to avoid overcrowding.
7. Create ventilation: Adequate ventilation is crucial to prevent moisture buildup and maintain air quality. Install vents or small windows with mesh screens to ensure proper airflow while keeping predators out.
8. Roofing: Install a sturdy roof to protect your pigeons from rain and harsh sunlight. You can use roofing material like asphalt shingles or metal roofing. Ensure it's securely attached to prevent leaks.
9. Secure the exterior: Cover the exterior of the dovecote with wire mesh to keep out predators like birds of prey and domestic cats. Make sure the openings in the mesh are small enough to prevent access but large enough to allow proper ventilation.
10. Paint and finish: Paint the dovecote with non-toxic paint to protect it from weathering and to add aesthetic appeal. Choose light colors to reflect heat and keep the interior cooler.
11. Install access doors: Create access doors for cleaning, feeding and checking on your pigeons. These doors should be secure and lockable.
12. Landscaping: Landscape the area around the dovecote, providing a clean and safe environment for your pigeons. Consider adding perches or a flight area for exercise.
13. Monitor and maintain: Regularly monitor your dovecote for signs of wear and tear and perform routine maintenance to ensure the safety and comfort of your pigeon.

Pigeons don't need much bedding in their dovecote, so this is optional unless you are keeping them in winter months. They need food and water to survive, so provide them in your dovecote. Provide food and water dishes inside your dovecote for your pigeon for easy access. Bedding for pigeons include hay, cat litter (check the ingredients before use) and wood pellets. You can also use normal aviaries for pigeons.



Colouration

Domestic pigeons have a lot of colouration depending on the type, breed and age of the bird. Solid colours include black, red, white, blue and grey, while there are different patterns such as a checkered pattern, 'tiger' stripes on the wings and barless pigeons. Some domestics have feathers with iridescent or metallic qualities, similar to those found in wild pigeons. These feathers can shimmer and change color in different lighting conditions. Many of these birds have complex combinations, with patterns unique to the animal.


Breeding

Pigeons are easy to breed. There are many steps of pigeon breeding including:

1. Select suitable pigeon breeds:
   • Decide what type of pigeons you want to breed. Some common breeds include homing pigeons, fancy pigeons and utility pigeons (bred for meat or racing). Choose a breed that suits your goals and preferences.
2. Create a pigeon loft or dovecote:
   • Build or purchase a pigeon loft or dovecote to house your pigeons. Ensure it provides protection from the weather, predators such as cats and adequate ventilation.
   • The loft should have separate compartments for nesting and roosting, and it should be easy to clean.
3. Provide proper nutrition:
   • Offer a balanced diet that includes pigeon feed, grains, seeds, and fresh water. Pigeons also benefit from access to grit, which helps with digestion.
   • Consult with a veterinarian or experienced pigeon breeder for specific dietary recommendations based on your pigeon breed and purpose.
4. Pairing pigeons:
   • Introduce compatible pairs of pigeons for breeding. Pigeons are generally monogamous, so a pair will usually bond and mate for life.
   • Monitor the pigeons for signs of bonding, such as cooing and billing (gentle pecking and mutual grooming).
5. Nesting and egglaying:
   • Provide nesting boxes or platforms inside the loft. Pigeons will typically lay two eggs per clutch.
   • Ensure the nesting area is clean and free from drafts. Pigeons incubate their eggs for about 17-19 days.
6. Incubation:
   • If you want to hatch eggs artificially, you can use an incubator. Otherwise, let the parent pigeons incubate the eggs on their own.
7. Healthcare:
   • Regularly inspect your pigeons for signs of illness or parasites. Provide proper vaccinations and deworming as needed.
   • Consult with a veterinarian who has experience with pigeons for routine health checks and advice on disease prevention.
8. Record keeping:
   • Keep records of breeding pairs, hatching dates and any noteworthy observations. This will help you track the progress of your pigeon breeding program.

Squeaker care

Squeakers require special care, as they are small and fragile to handle. Wash your hands thoroughly and wear disposable gloves when handling the baby pigeons to prevent any potential disease transmission. Place the pigeon squeakers in a clean, dry, and well-ventilated container like a cardboard box or a plastic tub with holes for air circulation. Line the container with soft, clean bedding, such as paper towels or tissues. Pigeon squeakers cannot regulate their body temperature well, so they need to be kept warm. Use a heating pad set on low or a heat lamp to maintain a temperature of around 35°C. Ensure that there's a warm side and a cooler side in the container so that the pigeons can move to the temperature they prefer. Domestic pigeon squeakers require a different diet. You should feed them a specially formulated baby pigeon or dove hand-feeding formula, which is available at most pet stores. Use a syringe or a small spoon to feed them. Make sure the food is at the right temperature, around 40°C. Follow the instructions on the hand-feeding formula packaging for the appropriate feeding schedule and quantity. Alongside feeding formula, provide fresh, clean water in a shallow dish. Pigeon squeakers can drink water from an early age. Pigeon squeakers need to be fed every 2-3 hours during the day. As they grow, you can gradually increase the time between feedings. After each feeding, use a damp cloth or cotton ball to gently stimulate their cloaca (the opening through which they excrete waste) to encourage them to defecate. This mimics the actions of their parents, who usually stimulate them to eliminate wastage. Clean the container regularly to maintain a hygienic environment. Keep a close eye on the pigeon squeakers' health. Look for any signs of illness, such as lethargy, fluffed feathers, discharge from the eyes and beak or difficulty breathing. If you notice any of these signs, consult a veterinarian experienced with birds. As the pigeons grow you can start introducing solid pigeon food gradually, which can be found in pet stores. Mix it with the formula and observe their response. Eventually, they will become less dependent on formula and more on solid food. Handle the pigeon squeakers gently and talk to them in a soft, soothing tone to help them become accustomed to human contact. As they grow and become more independent, you can consider moving them to a larger enclosure or a dovecote if you plan to keep them as pets. Provide a safe and comfortable living environment with appropriate perches, nesting materials and pigeon-friendly food.


Terms for pigeons

Some terms are used in pigeon keeping. The correct term for a group of domestic pigeons is a bevy. A male pigeon is called a cockerel and a female pigeon is called a hen. A baby pigeon is called a squeaker. A pigeon that is over a year old is called a yearling.



Farming pigeons for meat

Warning: If you are squeamish or do not like the mention of death, skip this section.

If you're keeping meat pigeons, you are in the squab farming hobby. Squab farming is relatively rare in the farmyard, but pigeons will give you some delicious meat for your farmer family to enjoy. Here's what you need to do when culling pigeons for meat:

• Sharp knife: You'll need a sharp tool to quickly and humanely dispatch the pigeons.
• Clean work area: Set up a clean, sanitary workspace for processing the birds.
• Large pot of boiling water: You will use this for scalding and feather removal.
• Gloves for clean hands

Hold the pigeon securely by the legs to prevent movement or use a killing cone. Quickly and firmly cut the pigeon's throat (severing the jugular vein) to ensure a swift and humane death. Allow the pigeon to bleed out completely. Dip the pigeon into a pot of boiling water for about 20-30 seconds. This helps loosen the feathers. Remove the pigeon from the boiling water and pluck the feathers. Be careful not to tear the skin. Make a small incision around the vent to access the internal cavity. Carefully remove the internal organs, including the crop, intestines and organs like the heart, lungs and liver. Rinse the cavity thoroughly to remove any remaining blood or debris.

Rinse the cleaned pigeon thoroughly under cold running water. Place the pigeon in cold water or an ice bath to cool it down quickly. This helps preserve the meat quality. Once cooled you can further process the pigeon by cutting it into portions or leaving it whole, depending on your culinary preferences. If you don't plan to use the meat immediately, store it in airtight containers or vacuum-sealed bags in the refrigerator or freezer. Dispose of the feathers, entrails, and any unused parts of the pigeon in a sanitary manner, following local regulations or guidelines for waste disposal. You can use pigeon meat in various recipes, such as stews, roasts, or grilled dishes. Ensure that you cook it thoroughly to a safe temperature to avoid foodborne illnesses.

Diseases

There are many diseases of pigeons including:

1. Parasitic infections: Pigeons can be affected by external parasites like mites and ticks, as well as internal parasites such as roundworms, tapeworms, and coccidia.
2. Respiratory infections: Respiratory infections are quite common in pigeons and can be caused by various bacteria and viruses. Symptoms may include sneezing, coughing, nasal discharge, and labored breathing.
3. Pigeonpox: This is a viral disease that affects pigeons. It can cause skin lesions, nodules on the feet and legs and sometimes, respiratory distress.
4. Salmonellosis: Pigeons can carry and transmit Salmonella bacteria, which can cause severe gastrointestinal illness in humans.
5. Avian paramyxovirus: This is a contagious viral disease that affects pigeons and other birds. It can cause respiratory and neurological symptoms and may lead to high mortality in affected bevies (flocks).
6. Canker (trichomoniasis): Canker is a protozoal infection that primarily affects the mouth and throat of pigeons. It can cause yellowish lesions in the mouth and difficulty in swallowing.
7. Worm infections: Pigeons can be afflicted by various types of worms, including roundworms and tapeworms which can cause digestive problems and weight loss.
8. Coccidiosis: This is a common intestinal disease caused by a protozoan parasite. It can lead to diarrhea, weight loss and overall weakness in pigeons.
9. Lead poisoning: Pigeons may ingest lead particles from contaminated environments or lead-based objects, leading to lead poisoning. This can cause neurological issues, many digestive problems and even death.
10. Infectious coryza: This is a bacterial disease that affects the upper respiratory tract of pigeons, causing symptoms like swelling around the eyes, nasal discharge and reduced egg production in breeding birds.
11. Newcastle disease: This is a highly contagious viral disease that affects pigeons and other birds. It can cause a wide range of symptoms, including respiratory distress, nervous system signs and digestive problems.

AUSTRALIAN PARROTS




The beginning...

The three most popular Australian parrots are: budgerigar, cockatiel and the large cockatoos. These birds are very popular in the aviculture industry because of their bright colours and unique personalities. Budgies would cost $15-$55 if purchased, cockatiels $40-$200 and large cockatoos being the most expensive, costing between $500-$2500. The cost of a cage or aviary depends on the species and how many birds you are keeping. Other popular parrots include lorikeets and rosellas.

Housing

You can either keep these parrots in large cages or in aviaries. The cage size depends on the species you are keeping. For cockatiels, the cage size for them must be 24 inches high by 36 inches wide by 36 inches tall. For budgies, the cage size for them must be 18 inches high by 18 inches wide by 32 inches tall. For most cockatoos, the cage size for them must be 46 inches wide by 30 inches high and 90 inches tall. The aviary must be, for budgies, 51 inches x 51 inches x 25 inches, for two cockatiels, 98 inches x 39 inches x 78 inches, and for cockatoos, 36 inches x 48 inches x 60 inches.

Feeding

Feed your Australian parrots a varied diet of fruit, veg, grain, seed and crumble. Parrots have a metabolism that are geared to low-fat diets. High-quality commercial pellet food formulated for parrots is an excellent base for their diet. It provides balanced nutrition and ensures they get essential vitamins and minerals. Offer a variety of fresh fruits such as apples, bananas, oranges and berries. These fruits are a good source of vitamins and antioxidants. Provide a mix of fresh vegetables like carrots, broccoli, kale, spinach and some bell peppers. These offer essential vitamins and minerals. Include leafy greens like lettuce, collard greens, and Swiss chard in their diet. These are rich in nutrients and help maintain their beak and plumage. Offer unsalted nuts like almonds and pecans in moderation as a treat. They are high in healthy fats and protein. Small amounts of seeds, such as sunflower and safflower seeds, can be given occasionally as treats. However, seeds should not be the primary food source, as they are high in fat. Cooked grains like rice and quinoa are good sources of carbohydrates and can be included in their diet occasionally. Fresh herbs like parsley and cilantro can be added to their food for nutrition. Provide fresh, clean water at all times for your birds. Parrots can be messy, so their water should be changed regularly. Do not feed your Australian parrots bad foods such as avocado, chocolate, junk human food, fruit pits and seeds, dairy products and mouldy and spoiled foods.

Enrichment

Australian parrots should be enriched because they can get bored easily in their cage or aviary. Place a pair of parrots in their cage because they are social animals. Aim for as much company and positive enrichment as you can. Research the species that you are going to provide enrichment to. Provide toys to your parrots, such as ladders, perches, swings and chew toys which are not toxic to them. Hide food in puzzle toys, foraging boxes or scatter it around their enclosure. This encourages natural foraging behaviours and keeps them mentally engaged. Teach them tricks or simple commands. This not only provides mental stimulation, but also strengthens the bond between you and your parrots. Most Australian parrots enjoy bathing. Provide a shallow dish of water for them to bathe in or mist them with a spray bottle. Give your parrots novelty items if required. Change over the toys to prevent them from being bored.



Breeding

Breeding Australian parrots can be challenging, and not all attempts will be successful. Be prepared for potential health issues, egg or chick mortality and other challenges. However, it is good to breed them if you want to keep generations of parrots and secure a successful family of them. Select healthy, mature birds that are at least 2-3 years old; ideally, pair birds of the same species, as hybridisation may lead to genetic issues. This ensures they are sexually mature and ready to breed. Parrots need a spacious and safe aviary or cage for breeding. The size depends on the specific species and the number of birds you plan to keep. Make sure the cage or aviary has adequate perches, nesting boxes, and toys for stimulation. Maintain a stable and comfortable environment for your parrots. Australian parrots typically prefer temperatures between 18-27°C. Ensure the aviary or cage is located away from drafts, direct sunlight, and extreme temperature fluctuations. Provide proper lighting and a natural day-night cycle to stimulate breeding behavior. Offer appropriate nesting boxes or cavities for your parrots to lay eggs. The size and design of the nesting box should match the species. Place the nestboxes in a quiet, private area of the aviary or cage. Watch for signs of bonding between the pair, such as preening each other and mutual feeding. As breeding season approaches female parrots may become more receptive to mating. Once the female lays eggs, monitor her closely. She may lay one egg every one to three days, depending on the species of parrot you are breeding. The female typically starts incubating the eggs after laying the second or third egg. Keep a close eye on the eggs to ensure they are being properly incubated.

Chick care

Australian parrot chicks are fun to look after, but there is some considerations when keeping or caring for them. It's important to make sure the species you are breeding is protected under national law. In Australia, ensure that you are in compliance with local and national laws regarding the care and ownership of Australian parrots, as some species may be protected or require permits.

Make sure you have a suitable enclosure or cage for the chicks. It should be clean, secure, and free from drafts. Maintain an appropriate temperature for the chicks. The temperature requirement can vary depending on the species, but it usually falls between 29-32°C. Use a heating pad to maintain the temperature. The diet for Australian parrot chicks will depend on their age and species. Typically, you will start with hand-feeding formula designed for parrot chicks. Follow the instructions on the packaging for mixing and feeding. This usually involves feeding every 2-4 hours during the day. Use a syringe or a specialized chick feeding spoon to feed the chicks. Make sure the food is at an appropriate temperature (around 40-43°C). Be very gentle while feeding to avoid aspiration. As the chicks grow, you'll gradually introduce solid foods like fresh fruits, vegetables, and specially formulated parrot pellets. The weaning process typically begins when they are around 8-12 weeks old. Offer fresh, clean water in a shallow dish when the chicks are old enough to drink independently. Spend time with the chicks to interact with them. Handle them gently and speak to them softly to help them become accustomed to human interaction. Keep the enclosure clean by regularly removing droppings, leftover food, and soiled bedding. This helps prevent the spread of disease. Keep a close eye on the chicks' health. If you notice any signs of illness (e.g., lethargy, loss of appetite, unusual droppings), consult a veterinarian with experience in avian care immediately. Monitor the development of their feathers. Ensure they are growing in properly and check for any abnormalities. As the chicks mature, work on training and socialization to ensure they are well-adjusted and friendly when they reach adulthood. It's important to have an avian veterinarian on call or schedule regular check-ups to ensure the health and well-being of your parrot chicks.

Diseases

Many Australian parrots may face sometimes fatal diseases such as:

1. Psittacine beak and feather disease (PBFD): Psittacine beak and feather disease is a viral disease that affects the feathers, beak, and immune system of parrots. It can cause feather loss, beak deformities and general weakness. Unfortunately, PBFD is highly contagious and often fatal. It's essential to quarantine new birds and regularly test your parrot for this disease.
2. Polyomavirus: Polyomavirus primarily affects young parrots, causing weight loss, regurgitation and sometimes sudden death. Vaccination is available for some species of parrots, so consult your veterinarian for advice on prevention.
3. Aspergillosis: This fungal infection can affect the respiratory system of parrots. It can cause symptoms like coughing, nasal discharge and laboured breathing. Proper hygiene and a clean environment can help prevent this disease.
4. Psittacosis (Parrot fever): Psittacosis is a zoonotic disease that can affect both birds and humans. It can cause flu-like symptoms in humans and a range of symptoms in parrots, including respiratory issues, diarrhoea and lethargy. Good hygiene practices and regular vet check-ups can help prevent and treat psittacosis.
5. Gastrointestinal issues: Parrots can develop various gastrointestinal problems, including crop impaction, diarrhea, and bacterial or fungal infections. These issues can result from poor diet, contaminated food and/or water or stress.
6. Feather plucking: Behavioural problems like feather-plucking can affect parrots, often stemming from stress, boredom, or underlying health issues. Identifying and addressing the underlying causes is essential to manage these behaviours.
7. Obesity: Overfeeding and a diet high in fatty foods can lead to obesity in parrots, which can contribute to various health problems, including heart disease and joint issues. A balanced diet and regular exercise are crucial for maintaining a healthy weight.
8. Trauma and injury: Accidents, such as falls or collisions, can result in injuries, including broken bones or wounds. Provide a safe and secure environment to minimise the risk of injury.
9. Nutritional deficiencies: A poor diet can lead to various nutritional deficiencies in parrots, affecting their overall health. Ensure that your parrot's diet is well-balanced and includes a variety of fresh fruits, vegetables and quality parrot pellets.

AUSTRALIAN FINCHES


The beginning...

The cost of Australian finches depend on the species you buy for an indoor cage or aviary. A pair of zebra finches can be brought as little as $15 dollars, while a pair of star finches can be bought for $45-$75 and Gouldian finches can be brought at $100 or more. You can buy pre-made outdoor aviaries or very large indoor cages for your finches for hundreds or thousands of dollars, but you can build your own aviary with half the price. 2 pounds of bird seed or pellet cost about $8-$15 depending on the brand, food and water bowls cost $9-$20, treats $4-$10 and a cage cleaner cost $10-$40. These birds are a lifelong commitment, so always research your species of Australian finch before purchasing them from the pet shop or aviary store.

Housing

Australian finches require a large aviary that is 3m x 2m x 2.1m high. This houses a somewhat large charm (flock) of finches. A pair of finches can be kept in a cage; but it would be too small for them to roam around, so an aviary is much better for them. The size of aviary depends on what you can keep your finches in. A single-species aviary would be slightly smaller than a mixed-species aviary.

Feeding

Feed your Australian finches a varied diet. Provide a high-quality commercial finch seed mix that includes a variety of seeds such as millet and various grass seeds. Ensure that it is fresh and free from mould or contaminants. Fresh, clean water should always be available. Change the water daily to prevent contamination. Offer fresh, dark leafy greens like spinach and kale. You can also provide small amounts of other vegetables like broccoli, carrot tops and cucumber. Sprouting seeds like millet, mung beans and alfalfa can be a nutritious addition to their diet. These are rich in vitamins and minerals. A small amount of egg food can be beneficial, especially during the breeding season. You can make this by mixing hard-boiled egg yolks with small breadcrumbs and finely chopped greens. Australian finches can enjoy live insects as an occasional treat. Small insects like fruit flies or mealworms can be offered. Provide a mineral block or a cuttlebone for essential calcium and minerals. Do not feed your finches foods such as chocolate, avocado, mouldy food, spoiled food and high fat and sugary foods.

Enrichment

Finches need some enrichment in their aviary or cage. Offer different types of perches, including natural branches of varying sizes and textures. This helps exercise their feet and provides a more interesting environment. Small toys made for birds, such as hanging bells, mirrors and wooden toys, can be hung in the cage. Ensure that these toys are bird-safe and do not have small parts that can be swallowed. Encourage natural foraging behaviours by hiding their food in small containers or by placing it in foraging toys. This can mimic their natural search for food in the wild. Adding live plants to their aviary not only makes it more visually appealing but also provides a source of entertainment as finches can explore and nibble on the plants. Just make sure the plants are non-toxic to birds. Hanging swings or ladders in the cage can provide exercise and entertainment for your finches. Finches are social birds, so consider providing a companion or small charm. Ensure that they get along, as not all finch species can be housed together. This not only provides nutritional variety but also mental stimulation as they explore different foods. Change the placement of toys and perches regularly to keep their environment fresh and exciting. Provide audio stimulation by playing soft, calming music or nature sounds. Visual stimulation can be achieved by placing the aviary or cage where they can see natural sunlight and the outside world. Many Australian finches enjoy bathing. Provide a shallow dish of water or a small bird bath that clips to the cage for them to splash around in. Make sure to change the water regularly.

Breeding

Australian finches are easy to breed if you follow these steps:

1. There are several species of Australian finches, such as Gouldian finches, zebra finches and star finches, among others. Select the species you want to breed based on your preferences and availability in your area. Some finches are protected under Australian law, so pick your species carefully.
2. Ensure your aviary is spacious enough to accommodate the birds comfortably. Provide perches, nest boxes, and nesting materials. The aviary should have adequate ventilation and protection from extreme weather conditions.
3. Ensure you have a compatible pair of finches. Some species can be aggressive or territorial, so it's important to monitor their behavior when introducing new birds. Most Australian finches form monogamous pairs, so you typically keep one male and one female together.
4. Install appropriate nest boxes inside the aviary. The size and type of nest box may vary depending on the species.
5. Fill the nest box with nesting material, such as dry grass, coconut fibre or soft nesting material specifically designed for birds. Many Australian finches breed during the warmer months, so it's important to know the specific breeding season for the species you are keeping. Some species may breed year-round under controlled conditions.
6. Regularly monitor the birds for signs of mating behavior, such as courtship displays, feeding each other, or spending time in the nest box. Check the nest box for eggs once the female starts laying them.
7. Allow the female to incubate the eggs, as she will do most of the work. The male may assist in feeding her during this time. Ensure the aviary remains calm and quiet to reduce stress on the nesting pair.
8. Keep records of breeding attempts, egg-laying dates and any other important information about your birds.

Chick care

Caring for Australian finch chicks can be difficult sometimes, but when you get the hang on it, it will get easier over time. Ensure that the parent finches have a suitable nest box to lay their eggs and raise their chicks. The nest box should be the appropriate size for the species and provide enough privacy and protection for the chicks. The health of the chicks largely depends on the nutrition of the parent birds. Provide them with a balanced diet of quality finch seed mix, fresh leafy greens and occasional protein sources like egg food and live insects. Once the chicks hatch, you'll need to supplement their diet. Purchase or prepare a specialized finch chick food. This can include a mix of finely ground seeds, egg food and vitamins. Chicks need frequent feeding, typically every 2-3 hours during the day. Be prepared for early mornings and late nights. Make sure there is a source of clean, fresh water available to the parent birds at all times. You can provide a shallow dish with water near the nest box to help with humidity levels and to allow the parents to moisten the chick food. Maintain a stable temperature in the breeding area, ideally around 24-27°C. Adequate humidity is important for chick development, especially in the early stages. You can use a humidifier or mist the area with water regularly. Observe the nest from a distance to avoid disturbing the parents. Ensure they are properly feeding and caring for the chicks. If you suspect any issues with the parents, such as neglect or aggression towards the chicks, you may need to intervene with them. Keep the nest box clean. Remove any uneaten food or droppings regularly to maintain a hygienic environment. Minimise handling of the chicks, as excessive handling can stress them and disrupt parental care. However, it's essential to monitor their health and development. As the chicks grow, they will start to transition to solid food. Continue providing chick food and gradually introduce them to the adult diet. As the chicks mature and gain independence, you can consider moving them to a separate cage or aviary from their parents. Be prepared to seek veterinary assistance if you notice any signs of illness in the chicks or parents. Keep a record of the chicks' growth and development, including their hatch date and any noteworthy observations.

Diseases

Australian finches can be susceptible to various diseases caused by bacteria, parasites, viruses and environmental factors. Some of these diseases include:

1. Avian pox: Avian pox is a viral disease that affects the skin, beak and eyes of finches. Infected birds may develop wart-like growths on their skin and experience respiratory distress. It can be transmitted through direct contact with infected birds or contaminated surfaces.
2. Respiratory infections: Finches are susceptible to respiratory infections caused by various bacteria and viruses. Symptoms include sneezing, nasal discharge, laboured breathing and reduced activity. Proper hygiene, good ventilation and avoiding overcrowding can help prevent these infections.
3. Mites and lice: External parasites like mites and lice can infest finches and cause feather loss, itching, and discomfort. Regular cleaning of cages and providing dust baths can help prevent infestations.
4. Internal parasites: Worms and other internal parasites can affect finches' health. Regular deworming and maintaining good hygiene in the cage can help prevent these issues.
5. Coccidiosis: Coccidiosis is a common protozoan infection that affects the intestinal tract of various birds. It can cause diarrhoea, weight loss and dehydration. Proper sanitation and clean water sources can help prevent coccidiosis.
6. Vitamin and nutritional deficiencies: Poor diet can lead to vitamin and mineral deficiencies in finches. Common deficiencies include vitamin A, calcium and iodine. Providing a balanced diet and access to cuttlebone or mineral blocks can help prevent these issues.
7. Egg-binding: Female finches can experience egg binding, where they are unable to pass an egg. This can be life-threatening and requires immediate veterinary attention.
8. Feather mites: Feather mites may affect the condition and appearance of a finch's feathers. They can cause itching and discomfort. Isolating new birds and regularly cleaning cages can help prevent the spread of feather mites.
9. Stress-related conditions: Stress can weaken a finch's immune system, making it more susceptible to diseases. Stressors include overcrowding, sudden changes in environment, and aggressive cage mates. Providing a calm and stable environment is essential.
10. Injuries: Accidents and injuries can occur, such as broken wings or beak damage. It's crucial to provide a safe and secure environment for finches to prevent injuries.

Species profile: Zebra finch

The most common finch in captivity, the zebra finch is loved by birdkeepers around the world. Their zebra-like patterns and orange cheeks have made them famous in the aviculture industry. This finch originates in arid/semi-arid Australia from deserts to rural areas. Therefore, there are thousands or millions of zebra finches in America, Europe and the United Kingdom for example.

WATERFOWL

The beginning...

Ducks and geese are common in the poultry hobby, while swans are relatively rare. Ducks are cheap, costing $30 or more. Geese are a bit expensive, costing $70 or more. Swans are the most expensive, costing hundreds or thousands of dollars to purchase. A pond depends on its size and cost. It may cost thousands of dollars to build, including plumbing.


Housing

Ducks, geese and swans are waterfowl, so a pond is always required for them to swim onto. You can let them free-range in the mornings and afternoons, but move them into a waterfowl house (coop) in nighttime. The pond must be large and fit the waterfowl's body. A large acreage is needed to keep these birds (ducks, swans and geese). These birds graze on grassy areas, so provide grass on your farm for them to graze. The waterfowl house also must be large as well. The bigger the better in terms of keeping them in the waterfowl house.

Enrichment

Waterfowl are intelligent and curious, so provide enrichment into their waterfowl house or pond. Offer a diverse and balanced diet that mimics their natural foraging habits. Include aquatic plants, insects, small fish, and grains. Avoid feeding them processed or unhealthy foods. Place floating platforms or rafts in the water. These provide resting areas and encourage natural behaviours like preening. Plant native aquatic vegetation around their habitat to encourage foraging and provide shelter. This also helps improve water quality. Provide floating or submerged toys and foraging devices, such as floating feeders, to stimulate their hunting instincts. Hide food inside these items to encourage problem-solving and exploration. Create artificial nesting sites or provide nest boxes for those species that use them. Ensure they have access to shelter from the elements. Waterfowl are social birds. Keep them in compatible groups to encourage social interactions. However, be cautious about overcrowding. Change the layout and arrangement of their habitat from time to time. Ducks, swans, and geese are curious creatures and enjoy exploring new environments. Set up floating or submerged obstacles and challenges in the water to encourage them to navigate and exercise. A variety of water depths can provide opportunities for swimming and foraging. Ducks, swans and geese prefer different water depths for various activities. Provide shallow areas for dabbling, deeper areas for swimming, and mudflats for foraging. Ensure their safety by protecting them from potential predators, such as cats, foxes, and birds of prey, with fencing or netting. Provide viewing areas for people to observe the waterfowl without causing stress. This can be accomplished through strategically placed blinds or observation decks. Mimic natural sounds and lighting conditions as closely as possible. This can include providing shade or shelter from direct sunlight and introducing natural sounds like waterfalls or wind chimes.


Breeding

Waterfowl are great to breed, especially ducks and geese, because of their popularity of the poultry industry. First, decide which species of waterfowl you want to breed. Some common options include ducks like Pekin, Indian runner or muscovy, swans like mute and black, and geese like Embden, Chinese or Toulouse. Most waterfowl are monogamous during the breeding season. Pair males and females, ensuring there is only one male per female to prevent aggression. Ducks, swans and geese need a suitable place to lay their eggs. Provide nesting boxes or platforms for them. Ensure the nesting area is safe and comfortable. Waterfowl have a natural breeding season, which varies depending on the species and location. Make sure you know when the breeding season occurs for your chosen species. If you want to incubate the eggs yourself, collect them as soon as possible after they are laid to prevent chilling. Use an incubator with the appropriate temperature and humidity settings for the species you are breeding. This varies among species, so research specific requirements. Turn the eggs regularly during incubation. You can let the female waterfowl brood her eggs in her nest. Duck eggs typically take about 28 days to hatch, swan eggs take 35-41 days, while goose eggs can take around 30-35 days. Monitor the eggs closely during this period. After hatching, the mother will care for the ducklings, cygnets or goslings.


Young waterfowl care

Waterfowl baby care is specialised, and may be more difficult to care than, you say, a pheasant chick or a finch hatchling. But it can be easy by following these guides. Prepare a safe and warm brooder area before bringing them home. A large cardboard box, plastic storage bin, or a specially designed brooder will work. Line the brooder with a layer of straw or pine shavings for bedding. Avoid using cedar shavings, as they can be toxic. Use a heat brooder to maintain the temperature between 29-32°C for the first week, reducing it by about 2-3°C each week until they are fully feathered at around 5-6 weeks old. Provide a cooler side in the brooder for them to escape the heat if needed. Feed them with commercial waterfowl starter or chick feed that contains around 18-20% protein. Provide fresh, clean water in a shallow dish or waterer that they can easily access. Make sure they can't fall into the water and drown. Baby waterfowl are social animals, so ensure they have company or at least a mirror to prevent loneliness and stress. Offer them a shallow pan or container of clean water for swimming as soon as they are ready (usually after the first week). Supervise their water activities to prevent drowning. Provide some simple toys or objects for them to peck at or explore, like floating lettuce or a small mirror. Keep their brooder clean and dry by changing the bedding regularly and removing any waste. Waterfowl can be messy, so frequent cleaning is essential to prevent illness. As they grow, transition them to waterfowl grower feed, and later, a layer feed when they are adults. You can also supplement their diet with vegetables and fruits. When the weather is suitable and they are old enough (usually around 4-6 weeks), introduce them to the outdoors gradually. Ensure they have access to a safe and secure outdoor enclosure or pond. Protect them from potential predators like cats, foxes and birds of prey by providing secure housing and fencing. Regularly monitor their health and consult a veterinarian if you notice any signs of illness, injury or even abnormalities. Spend time with them, handle them gently and carefully and encourage being social. This helps to ensure they are comfortable around people.

Diseases

Waterfowl can be susceptible to diseases, of which they are sometimes fatal to them. Here are some diseases for waterfowl:

1. Avian influenza (Bird-flu): Avian influenza viruses can infect waterfowl and can occasionally jump to domestic poultry and even humans. Waterfowl are natural reservoirs for these viruses and can carry them without showing symptoms.
2. Botulism: Botulism is caused by a toxin produced by the bacterium Clostridium botulinum. Birds can ingest the toxin when they consume contaminated food or water. It can lead to paralysis and death in affected waterfowl.
3. Duck plague: Also known as duck viral enteritis, this disease is caused by the duck plague virus (DPV). It can cause significant mortality in waterfowl, especially ducks, and can also affect swans and geese.
4. Avian cholera: This is a bacterial disease caused by Pasteurella multocida. It can affect various bird species, including waterfowl, and can result in sudden outbreaks and high mortality rates.
5. Aspergillosis: This is a fungal disease caused by Aspergillus species. Waterfowl can inhale or ingest the spores of this fungus, leading to respiratory and digestive issues.
6. Duck viral enteritis (DVE): This is a highly contagious viral disease that primarily affects ducks and geese, causing enteric problems and often leading to high mortality.
7. Avian pox: Avian pox is a viral disease caused by the avian poxvirus. It can result in the development of skin lesions and can affect waterfowl.
8. Lead poisoning: Waterfowl are susceptible to lead poisoning when they ingest lead pellets or fragments from spent lead shot used in hunting. Lead poisoning can have severe health effects.
9. Salmonellosis: Waterfowl, especially waterfowl in close contact with humans, can carry Salmonella bacteria. It can cause gastrointestinal disease in birds and can be transmitted to humans if proper hygiene is not maintained.
10. Mycoplasmosis: This bacterial disease, caused by Mycoplasma species, can affect the respiratory and reproductive systems of waterfowl.

Conclusion
These eleven birds are great to care, but there are many challenges mentioned into these care guides. Do your proper research before purchasing any of these birds in your backyard or farmyard. I hope you enjoyed reading this article and I hope you will review it. If you have any questions regarding poultry and caged birds, ask the friendly BYC team if you want to get some tips and answers.





Links to other good articles in BYC:

Pheasants and peafowl:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/peafowl-101-basic-care-genetics-and-answers.67744/ (@Kedreeva)
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/how-to-raise-peafowl-information-on-the-basics.67208/ (@Mountain Peeps)
https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...-pheasant-pic-heavy-with-mutation-pics.67510/ (@birdman55)
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/lady-amhersts-pheasant-facts-breeding.78673/ (@Gigachad poultry)

Turkeys, guinea-fowl and quail:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/brooding-and-raising-turkey-poults.67484/ (@sumi)
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/raising-turkeys-for-meat-vs-keeping-as-pets.78530/ (@BYC Project Manager)
https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...beginners-guide-to-raising-guinea-fowl.74737/ (@Brahmachicken240)
https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...and-how-to-pick-the-right-bird-for-you.67350/ (@TwoCrows)
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/housing-and-feeding-your-quail.67371/ (@TwoCrows)

Pigeons, finches and parrots:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/caring-for-pigeons-in-an-aviary-or-indoors.78312/ (@RoostersAreAwesome)
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/the-history-and-mating-behavior-of-pigeons.67709/ (@Blackberry18)
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/what-you-need-to-know-before-you-get-your-parrot.75448/ (@Quailobsessed)
https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...ra-finch-taeniopygia-castanotis-remake.78846/ (@Gigachad poultry)

Waterfowl:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...ing-ducks-the-complete-essential-guide.76260/ (@Corbdee)
https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...lection-incubation-brooding-and-sexing.67707/ (@Blackberry18)
https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...ising-geese-and-are-they-right-for-you.78377/ (@ColtHandorf)
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/things-to-know-before-raising-geese.77623/ (@BYC Project Manager)