15 week old peachick has stopped eating/drinking and is not acting like himself at all

[DewberryJam]

Hi. I have two peachicks, a 16wo girl and a 15wo boy. They have been doing terrific. They are currently housed outside in a large pen that’s under cover and on concrete with pine shavings on the floor. They eat a mix of chick starter and game bird starter and get meal worms for treats fed by hand most days. They are both very social/friendly, though that totally includes the pecking at us and trying to eat our freckles and fingers (and hat brims and key chains and anything g they can peck at pretty much). We do have also chickens that free range.

Today, when I went to tend to the pea chicks and give them some mealworms, Charlie was NOT acting like himself at all. He usually scarfs down the meal worms, but he was just standing there, and even when I put mealworms right up to him, he wouldn’t eat them. He wasn’t pecking at the worms, my hands, anything. When I would pet him, he wouldn’t fuss at me (he’s very social, but would usually fuss if you tried to pet him or (God forbid!) try to pick him up! (And then he’d be right back for more attention! Lol!) But today, he isn’t eating and isn’t fussing and is totally not himself and is just standing quietly in a corner, eyes closed, unless you’re messing with him. The peahen Skywalker is just fine and was happy to eat all of Charlie’s neglected mealworms.

My daughter thought he wasn’t breathing well, so we felt him up and looked down his throat but couldn’t notice any obstructions. We then syringe fed him some water, which he did swallow, but he wasn’t happy about it. He’s now resting over in a corner again, sometimes eyes closed, sometimes preening a bit, and then just resting again, eyes closed. He’s usually a frisky fellow and eager to chomp on everything.

Any advice???

 

[Waterfaery]

I remember your posts from a few weeks back. Did you ever get those meds that we recommended for coccidiosis and worms as well as that Kaytee feed?

What are his droppings like?

With a peachick you really need to act quickly so there's not a huge amount of time to try to diagnose. Coccidiosis is the most likely and takes them down quickly so I would treat for that immediately and then treat for worms after that. It would be a good idea to have some antibiotics on hand but I wouldn't give those unless there's a strong reason to suspect an infection and at least not until you've ruled coccidiosis out first. This is a good post with a list of things that are a good idea keep on hand in general.

You need to keep him warm and well hydrated. He will need a lot more liquid than a syringe full if he's not drinking. This is a very detailed thread about how to crop feed, including tubing fluids. I would start reading it so you can be prepared in case you need to do that.

 

[DewberryJam]

I remember your posts from a few weeks back. Did you ever get those meds that we recommended for coccidiosis and worms as well as that Kaytee feed?

What are his droppings like?

With a peachick you really need to act quickly so there's not a huge amount of time to try to diagnose. Coccidiosis is the most likely and takes them down quickly so I would treat for that immediately and then treat for worms after that. It would be a good idea to have some antibiotics on hand but I wouldn't give those unless there's a strong reason to suspect an infection and at least not until you've ruled coccidiosis out first. This is a good post with a list of things that are a good idea keep on hand in general.

You need to keep him warm and well hydrated. He will need a lot more liquid than a syringe full if he's not drinking. This is a very detailed thread about how to crop feed, including tubing fluids. I would start reading it so you can be prepared in case you need to do that.

I remember your posts from a few weeks back. Did you ever get those meds that we recommended for coccidiosis and worms as well as that Kaytee feed?

What are his droppings like?

With a peachick you really need to act quickly so there's not a huge amount of time to try to diagnose. Coccidiosis is the most likely and takes them down quickly so I would treat for that immediately and then treat for worms after that. It would be a good idea to have some antibiotics on hand but I wouldn't give those unless there's a strong reason to suspect an infection and at least not until you've ruled coccidiosis out first. This is a good post with a list of things that are a good idea keep on hand in general.

You need to keep him warm and well hydrated. He will need a lot more liquid than a syringe full if he's not drinking. This is a very detailed thread about how to crop feed, including tubing fluids. I would start reading it so you can be prepared in case you need to do that.

This is what I have:
Poultry Nutrí-Drench
Hydro-Hen
Corid/amprolium 9.6% oral solution
Safe-Guard dewormer for goats fenbendazole 10% solution

I also have IV fluids with B-12 added to it and 18 gauge needles from when we were having to give our cat fluids for a couple weeks, for whatever that is worth.

It’s plenty warm. We live in Florida. The forecast low tonight is still 76F. We generally have a fan blowing on their pen because it’s so hot during the day. I’m going to go give him some more water now and then will get those other links read.

 

[DewberryJam]

I remember your posts from a few weeks back. Did you ever get those meds that we recommended for coccidiosis and worms as well as that Kaytee feed?

What are his droppings like?

With a peachick you really need to act quickly so there's not a huge amount of time to try to diagnose. Coccidiosis is the most likely and takes them down quickly so I would treat for that immediately and then treat for worms after that. It would be a good idea to have some antibiotics on hand but I wouldn't give those unless there's a strong reason to suspect an infection and at least not until you've ruled coccidiosis out first. This is a good post with a list of things that are a good idea keep on hand in general.

You need to keep him warm and well hydrated. He will need a lot more liquid than a syringe full if he's not drinking. This is a very detailed thread about how to crop feed, including tubing fluids. I would start reading it so you can be prepared in case you need to do that.

Just gave him more water, but he doesn’t want it. After we finished (takes one holding him and another with the syringe), he just gave me this fresh green runny poo. I have the Kaytee baby bird food, and the 18 gauge catheters should arrive tomorrow for tubing which will be easier if we can figure it out (thanks for the link). Until then, we’ve got syringes to work with.

 

[DewberryJam]

Charlie wanted me to let you know he’s feeling much better. He’s still not 100% but he’s happily scarfing down mealworms again. He weighed about 3.5 pounds, so we gave him .3ml Corid 2x per day for 5 days, then just once a day for one day, and then gave him none yesterday or today. He’s very happy to get treats without meds again. At this point I expect a full recovery from whatever his problem was. We also put Corid in his and Skywalker’s shared waterer. She has been fine throughout.