A few questions for first brooder and chicks

[Chelsa'sChicks]

It will be different to try and teach them with a nipple. Can't just dip their beaks in.....

Correct, but they still need to know where the water is was my point.

 

[Chelsa'sChicks]

Chicken wire is not suitable as a predator barrier. Coons can reach through it and rip it apart, I suggest 1/2" hardware cloth. Chicken wire is good for keeping chickens where you want them and out of where you do not want them.

It's very suitable actually. It has worked for years this is what I've always done with my chicks.. I've never replaced or fixed anything on it once it was built so it is keeping the predators out. I do have predators where I live. Unless your racoons work out more then mine do, they have not been successful at all.

 

[LittleCheepers]

Speaking from experience, if you are making your own water bottle, you will need to make a hole in the top of the bottle or the water won’t come out (duh!). Also, we used the “Royal Rooster lubing drinker cups” ordered from Amazon. There is nothing to peck - there is a blue float in the cup that allows water to flow into the cup as needed so the cups are always full, absolutely no learning curve. Even at several weeks old, our chicks weren’t able to peck hard enough to get water from the regular nipple waterer. Just one cup on a bottle was plenty for the brooder. After moving them outside, we put three on a five gallon bucket. They have to be screwed into the bottom of the bucket, but we just put the bucket on a cinderblock and it works great. They always have clean water and they don’t have to “work” for it. They are kind of expensive, about $35 for four, but well worth it in my opinion. If for some reason they had to be replaced I would order them again, no question.

 

[KaijuChickens]

In fact I encourage you to VERY seriously look at the Mama Heating Pad method of brooding chicks:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/th...d-in-the-brooder-picture-heavy-update.956958/

Wow, that is fantastic, thank you so much for the link. I wish I saw it earlier as I like this concept a lot better than a lamp. I have already started gathering materials to make a MHP and plan to build it this weekend. I will leave the heat lamp above the cage (turned off) as an emergency backup plan in case there is some sort of failure with the heating pad.

Thanks everyone else for your replies as well!

The local stores are starting to get chicks in... so close to finally getting them!

 

[aart]

I've never replaced or fixed anything on it once it was built so it is keeping the predators out.

Or they've never really tried to get in.....
....because, yeah, they can chew thru it.
This was supposedly done by a skunk.

 

[aart]

I have already started gathering materials to make a MHP and plan to build it this weekend.

Adjustable legs are good.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/pseudo-brooder-heater-plate.67729/

Here's some chick heat tips that might assist you.
Here's my notes on chick heat, hope something in there might help:

They need to be pretty warm(~85-90F on the brooder floor right under the lamp and 10-20 degrees cooler at the other end of brooder) for the first day or two, especially if they have been shipped, until they get to eating, drinking and moving around well. But after that it's best to keep them as cool as possible for optimal feather growth and quicker acclimation to outside temps. A lot of chick illnesses are attributed to too warm of a brooder. I do think it's a good idea to use a thermometer on the floor of the brooder to check the temps, especially when new at brooding, later I still use it but more out of curiosity than need.


The best indicator of heat levels is to watch their behavior:

If they are huddled/piled up right under the lamp and cheeping very loudly, they are too cold.

If they are spread out on the absolute edges of the brooder as far from the lamp as possible, panting and/or cheeping very loudly, they are too hot.

If they sleep around the edge of the lamp calmly just next to each other and spend time running all around the brooder they are juuuust right!


The lamp is best at one end of the brooder with food/water at the other cooler end of the brooder, so they can get away from the heat or be under it as needed. Wattage of 'heat' bulb depends on size of brooder and ambient temperature of room brooder is in. Regular incandescent bulbs can be used, you might not need a 'heat bulb'. You can get red colored incandescent bulbs at a reptile supply source. A dimmer extension cord is an excellent way to adjust the output of the bulb to change the heat without changing the height of the lamp.

 

[Chelsa'sChicks]

Or they've never really tried to get in.....
....because, yeah, they can chew thru it.
This was supposedly done by a skunk.
View attachment 1273002

It was built well and I've been using this method for years. I'm also guessing my methods to keep them away in the first place to better protect my flock and chicks (because I have opossums, racoons, skunks, fox and coyotes) is more effective also

 

[bruceha2000]

Yep, the farther you can keep the predators from the coop the better!