Am I on the right path?

I just skimmed the replies, so maybe these points I get mostly from the drawing have been addressed.

You've got sections for breeds, and state one cock for each breed, but plan on letting them mingle?? That doesn't make sense to me.
If you plan on "maintaining the genetics that made these breeds" breeds need to be kept separate...with maybe another enclosure for cross breeding.

The hens with chicks section....do you plan on using exclusively broody hens to increase your numbers? Might be rather 'optimistic'...and multiple broodies with their babes will not necessarily co-exist in peace.

Yes, 18x18x18 is rather large for nests. 14x14x16 has worked well for me including Brahmas. 1 nest per 3-5 birds is plenty. No matter the amount of eggs they may lay annually, they still only one per day.

GA will probably need massive ventilation. Tho your floor plan is a good working drawing, I see few construction details, tho saw something about concrete blocks.
Do you have any elevation drawings?(old drafter here)

There are 3 great reads that all beginners should read linked in my signature.
Let me know if you can't see or access links.
 
I just skimmed the replies, so maybe these points I get mostly from the drawing have been addressed.

You've got sections for breeds, and state one cock for each breed, but plan on letting them mingle?? That doesn't make sense to me.
If you plan on "maintaining the genetics that made these breeds" breeds need to be kept separate...with maybe another enclosure for cross breeding.

The hens with chicks section....do you plan on using exclusively broody hens to increase your numbers? Might be rather 'optimistic'...and multiple broodies with their babes will not necessarily co-exist in peace.

Yes, 18x18x18 is rather large for nests. 14x14x16 has worked well for me including Brahmas. 1 nest per 3-5 birds is plenty. No matter the amount of eggs they may lay annually, they still only one per day.

GA will probably need massive ventilation. Tho your floor plan is a good working drawing, I see few construction details, tho saw something about concrete blocks.
Do you have any elevation drawings?(old drafter here)

There are 3 great reads that all beginners should read linked in my signature.
Let me know if you can't see or access links.


I had planned to Breed them by placing breed specific ( my best? ) hens with the Rooster in the Hen/Chick or alternatively the Breeding Area ( when empty ) WHEN I felt resources needed replenishing or as my others aged. I am unsure as to how often for the latter. The hens would be separated for two weeks before the Roo is placed with them for a few days. Then I plan to let the ladies sit it out and return the Rooster to the main coop area. Am I accurate in this method or should I be going in another direction? Purity of breed means nothing in the eggs I am eating. However, when I was a child, my grandmother had some awesomely sweet birds, but as they passed and were replaced by their own offspring ( no new introductions ) their looks and attitudes changed and they became mean as all get out. I want to avoid this! I also plan to periodically bring in a new Rooster for breeding only to keep from constant inbreeding.
If the ladies are willing to sit their own eggs... great.. if not and a broody is available, she will be utilized. I really prefer to allow them to do it without to much of my intervention. Am I off base here?
The size and number of the nest boxes can easy be adjusted at this point and exactly why I posted my plans for evaluation by the experienced flock keeper. I require and welcome the input.
Yes, I am planning to utilize CBS construction but have not done elevation renderings.
It will be a simple gable end, with most windows allowing for solar southern exposure and a 12" eave overhang for cooler summers and warmer winters. I will also be utilizing a 6" raised roof ridge vent for escaping hot air and am currently considering 6" cool tubes at approx. every 10' to offer convection.
Obviously you have the experience to consider my plans and advise. I look forward to hearing your input. Thank you in advance.
Also, I will definitely take a look at your links!
 
I can't imagine the scramble ( no pun intended ) you must have had. HAHA
actually, I bought a pre-fab coop online. Went thru one late summer, fall and Winter with this!!! IMG_1324.JPG Then, I realized, I needed, more.... I studied all winter and spring and when I had time off in July, I built this!! No MAN's help!! Hubby, left me to my own devices, My coop, MY project... My 13yr old daughter as my "Apprentice", and my 19 yr Son as the "Muscle", when I needed ( playing video games online).
 
actually, I bought a pre-fab coop online. Went thru one late summer, fall and Winter with this!!!View attachment 1823033 Then, I realized, I needed, more.... I studied all winter and spring and when I had time off in July, I built this!! No MAN's help!! Hubby, left me to my own devices, My coop, MY project... My 13yr old daughter as my "Apprentice", and my 19 yr Son as the "Muscle", when I needed ( playing video games online).


I didn't have the option to LOVE this, but please know that I do!!!! You sound like me. I do everything myself and I enjoy doing it. When the toilet required replacement, I did it, when the garbage disposal crapped out, I replaced it. When my, soon to be old 1925 shotgun house, required gutting and rebuilding.. well there are pics of me gutting it, hanging new insulation, drywall, fixtures, you name it. Leaving only the original heart of pine floors and exterior walls. I even added a bathroom. The only thing I didn't run was the HVAC and the new electrical. Of course I was an "I" then and am now a "WE", so I will have assistance. Afterwards I may be an "I" again... hahaha
It looks LOVELY. I could not be happier for you and you should have much pride in your results!!!!!!
 
Imagine if you will, the brooding area of your coop and the interior walls made of hardware cloth. Now imagine the bottom is framed in but elevated off of the floor of the brooding area some 6 to 12 inches, depending on what litter method you choose (deep litter will require more elevation to accommodate the litter. Now imagine that you fashioned picture frames that are screened with hardware wire that could hook onto that lower opening to close off the space when you want it closed, or removed to allow chicks access, but not big enough to allow adult chickens access. (Heck, a 12 inch x however many feet across would work too). When open, your chicks could come and go as they please, giving them a safe place to run to if someone's picking on them.
 
Imagine if you will, the brooding area of your coop and the interior walls made of hardware cloth. Now imagine the bottom is framed in but elevated off of the floor of the brooding area some 6 to 12 inches, depending on what litter method you choose (deep litter will require more elevation to accommodate the litter. Now imagine that you fashioned picture frames that are screened with hardware wire that could hook onto that lower opening to close off the space when you want it closed, or removed to allow chicks access, but not big enough to allow adult chickens access. (Heck, a 12 inch x however many feet across would work too). When open, your chicks could come and go as they please, giving them a safe place to run to if someone's picking on them.
@aart has a fabulous article about integration with this technique, too.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/integrating-new-birds-at-4-weeks-old.72603/
 
The hens would be separated for two weeks before the Roo is placed with them for a few days.
4 weeks to be absolutely sure hens are 'cleared' of other sperm....
and chosen cock/erel in with them for week or so.
Might be hard to 'time' a broody, so think about an incubator.
If you don't want to 'intervene' as described, then keep breeds separate all the time, then you'll be ready if one goes broody.

Yes, I am planning to utilize CBS construction but have not done elevation renderings.
It will be a simple gable end, with most windows allowing for solar southern exposure and a 12" eave overhang for cooler summers and warmer winters. I will also be utilizing a 6" raised roof ridge vent for escaping hot air and am currently considering 6" cool tubes at approx. every 10' to offer convection.
I know nothing about CBS...really, how cold are your winters?
Chicken have much more trouble with heat than cold.....
...and good air exchange is essential.
 
4 weeks to be absolutely sure hens are 'cleared' of other sperm....
and chosen cock/erel in with them for week or so.
Might be hard to 'time' a broody, so think about an incubator.
If you don't want to 'intervene' as described, then keep breeds separate all the time, then you'll be ready if one goes broody.


I know nothing about CBS...really, how cold are your winters?
Chicken have much more trouble with heat than cold.....
...and good air exchange is essential.


Thank you so much for the correction to requirements. I will take your directions to heart, but have no desire to separate them into differing coops. If it plays out great, if not.. well you know the saying.. try and try again. HA
Our winters are mild. Most years less than a week below freezing. CBS structure with a wall of solar southern exposure should maintain an internal temp of around 55 - 60. Our summers aren't as severe as those in areas in Arizona, Texas or New Mexico. Generally, upper 90's with a few over 100, unless we suffer one of those insane heatwaves. Without the heatwaves and with the introduction of cooltubes at a depth of 10' and the raised ridge vent I should be able to allow convection to keep it in the upper 70s/ lower 80s.
CBS structure are just the standard 8" x 16" double hollow concrete blocks. Stacked like brinks with rebar every other hollow (I will be using fiberglass rebar). Then the rebarred hollows are filled with cement. Plates, bucks, rafters are hurricane tied into the cement and the build continues the same as stick built.
Hope we are both learning something. I know I am and I thank you.
 
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