Am I on the right path?

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trumpeting_angel said:
You mentioned clear roofing in the run to provide light. Shade is really important! I suppose your birds can retreat to the coop, but do provide some shade in the run, as well.
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Great thought. I don't know why I had it in my head that they would primarily be there for feeding ( early morning and evening ) and on rainy days. See, I do so need you guys to educate me and offer proper directions! Thanks.
 
I have been enjoying reading all your plans-makes my little chicken coop and run feel pretty cramped. It is not quite tall enough to stand up in, and has a slanted roof. If I were to do this again, I would figure out a way to keep from having so many little hiding places where braces, rafters and the like meet. They create lovely places for wasps to build nests. When I see one going in the coop I watch to see where it goes, and eventually I have to block the chickens out of the coop and spray the nest. Always an unnerving prospect. Imagine not being able to stand up straight, wearing bifocals, having a stiff neck and a can of poison, stuck in a small room with a nest of wasps. Spray up around where you really can't see, back out and run like heck.:eek:
I didn't have chickens for a couple of years, and when I was preparing for new chicks again this spring, I found three HUGE wasp nests tucked away in the corners. One was in a nest box. These things were nearly 5" across. Of course, they were old abandoned nests by now, but, still!
Anyway, that's my advice. Don't make it too welcoming for wasps.
 
so lucky said:
I have been enjoying reading all your plans-makes my little chicken coop and run feel pretty cramped. It is not quite tall enough to stand up in, and has a slanted roof. If I were to do this again, I would figure out a way to keep from having so many little hiding places where braces, rafters and the like meet. They create lovely places for wasps to build nests. When I see one going in the coop I watch to see where it goes, and eventually I have to block the chickens out of the coop and spray the nest. Always an unnerving prospect. Imagine not being able to stand up straight, wearing bifocals, having a stiff neck and a can of poison, stuck in a small room with a nest of wasps. Spray up around where you really can't see, back out and run like heck.:eek:
I didn't have chickens for a couple of years, and when I was preparing for new chicks again this spring, I found three HUGE wasp nests tucked away in the corners. One was in a nest box. These things were nearly 5" across. Of course, they were old abandoned nests by now, but, still!
Anyway, that's my advice. Don't make it too welcoming for wasps.
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Thanks for the info. I had not even considered wasps in the coop. I know how to alleviate that issue without pesticide, fortunately.

For those that don't know and have a problem with wasps.......

Paint the underside of eaves, coop ceilings and any location they may build a nest a SKY BLUE. You will never find a wasp nest on that color because they won't build on what appears to have no place to secure their nest to. My Ex- Father In Law was an Entomologist with the government for 40 years and gave me that tidbit decades ago when I was at war with them over the eaves of my front porch.
 
so lucky said:
Hey! I've never heard of that! I could probably still do that when I can block the chickens out of their coop for the day, using some low-odor paint. I have a friend who has a big porch on her circa 1910 house. She has the ceiling of the porch painted sky blue, and it is so pretty. Who knew it was practical, as well?
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Absolutely. They think it is the sky and won't even bother. Some low VOC paint, even over a few days in the early part of the day should allow you to paint some areas and drying time before sunset... and yes.. works like a charm and no more wasp poison in your coop! Glad I had something to offer up instead of my " I need", "tell me", teach me" that I have requested all day. HAHA
 
Eggcentric One said:
Thank you so much for the correction to requirements. I will take your directions to heart, but have no desire to separate them into differing coops. If it plays out great, if not.. well you know the saying.. try and try again. HA

Our winters are mild. Most years less than a week below freezing. CBS structure with a wall of solar southern exposure should maintain an internal temp of around 55 - 60. Our summers aren't as severe as those in areas in Arizona, Texas or New Mexico. Generally, upper 90's with a few over 100, unless we suffer one of those insane heatwaves. Without the heatwaves and with the introduction of cooltubes at a depth of 10' and the raised ridge vent I should be able to allow convection to keep it in the upper 70s/ lower 80s.

CBS structure are just the standard 8" x 16" double hollow concrete blocks. Stacked like brinks with rebar every other hollow (I will be using fiberglass rebar). Then the rebarred hollows are filled with cement. Plates, bucks, rafters are hurricane tied into the cement and the build continues the same as stick built.

Hope we are both learning something. I know I am and I thank you.
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I hope the cool tubes work, will be very interested to see the build of those and the resultant temps this summer and/or next. It might be pretty hard to add windows and ventilation in to filled block walls after the fact. But still my brain keeps going back to ventilation and that it's hard to keep a coop well ventilated and also sequester it from the outside air. I'd add windows all around(top hinged are great to keep rain out and more open area) when open so you have the option later on.....plus extra light is always good. Large roof overhangs all around would be good in your area for shade and to protect ventilation.


The epoxy coated floor sparks some speculation. Do you plan on 'hosing' down the floor to 'clean'....or....? Makes me want to say, water is not good for coops, feeds organisms, tho from one of your other posts I presume you are a fan of chemical eradication(wasps) so maybe that's not an issue...tho moist, ammonia and/or chemical laden air is not good for birds sensitive lung systems. But if you plan to use copious amounts of liquid, you might want to add sloping and drains to the floor. Will you use any bedding on floor?

If you have no plans to keep the breeds separate, you might want to rework your floor plan to remove those labels. The size of the building is fantastic and the separate feed/storage area, and broody/chick area will be nice to have....as will be the split run areas. I designed a 4x6 section in my coop, with separate people and pop doors, to be created with a temporary wall. It's worked out great, I just wish I had been able to make it bigger as it's hard to move around in there.

The slide out poop trays are huge, ~8 x 7.5', will be hard to handle and I don't think you quite have room to pull them all the way out, but not sure how you actually plan to manage them. There are lots of way to build and manage poop boards.
Here's LOTS of ideas:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/th...t-warning-graphic-gross-poop-pictures.621363/
 
As usual, @aart 's advice is spot on. But the OP is the one against chemical pesticides. I agree, though, this coop needs some windows and extra ventilation. I have no idea how that fits in with hurricane protection, but I expect it's manageable.
 

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