Anyone have good luck buying/modifying a prefab or some other structure? (Seattle area)

[charlotte-and-the-bees]

We're about to close on a new home, move date should be end of January. I'm nervous about the overlap in that + selling our current home, so trying to figure out the best way to get a good coop built quickly. We built our original coop but took about a month and I don't think we'll have that time to do it ourselves. At this point debating any option - cross-country delivery, paying someone local, modifying a shed. I'm really nuts about predator protection and would prefer to build a big enclosed run ourselves, so really just looking for a coop big enough for less than 10 hens.

 

[Offshoreorca]

Depends on the pre-fab. My coop is from a pre-fab franchise in my area. The folks who built my coop have a reputation for honesty and quality work.

I ordered an 8x10 with a door for the chickens and one for me, two windows with screens, and five or six nest boxes. When I ordered my building, I had a chance to see an enclosed coop/run combo they were doing as a custom order that was quite impressive.

I would consider that more of a custom build then a prefab. By prefab I’m referring mostly to the off the shelves versions sold online and by farm stores.

Customs are lovely if you can find the right person/team to make them.

 

[Offshoreorca]

Gotcha. I would agree with you under that definition. I started shopping enclosures and coops at the farm store. I quickly found out their stuff would barely satisfy minimum requirements. That’s when I ordered my coop to be delivered pre-made and put up my own fence (until I can get it done by a professional).

Definitely. I count myself lucky to have found them.

I had my small barn built by a local company and then delivered, so a similar idea to what you did. Then I painted and put in flooring, windows, the divider (plus screen door), as well as built the run portion myself.

@charlotte-and-the-bees I definitely would recommend starting with a baby barn/custom built structure if it’s within your budget.

 

[3KillerBs]

We do have a gambrel-style roof, but have had no issues with ventilation at all (we certainly did modify this a lot with hardware cloth covered venting). Winter temperatures are down to -20C/-4F and we are in a high humidity coastal area, with no frost bite or other common ventilation problems, so it can be done

I agree that you have to be careful and think it through properly, as these are not so easily ventilated as some other designs.

Have you made a coop page article showing your modifications and how you achieved good ventilation?

It would be very useful for the many people who end up with a gambrel-roof shed to convert.

 

[3KillerBs]

If you need to go the hoop coop route here are some good examples:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/hoop-tractor.69336/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/hoop-coop-brooder-with-roll-up-sides.75720/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/the-biddie-bordello-a-hoop-coop-run-combo.72189/reviews
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/permanent-hoop-coop-guide.47818/reviews

I find the term "baby barn" concerning. "Barn" usually implies a gambrel roof and gambrels are notoriously difficult to ventilate properly.

 

[Offshoreorca]

If you need to go the hoop coop route here are some good examples:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/hoop-tractor.69336/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/hoop-coop-brooder-with-roll-up-sides.75720/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/the-biddie-bordello-a-hoop-coop-run-combo.72189/reviews
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/permanent-hoop-coop-guide.47818/reviews

I find the term "baby barn" concerning. "Barn" usually implies a gambrel roof and gambrels are notoriously difficult to ventilate properly.

We do have a gambrel-style roof, but have had no issues with ventilation at all (we certainly did modify this a lot with hardware cloth covered venting). Winter temperatures are down to -20C/-4F and we are in a high humidity coastal area, with no frost bite or other common ventilation problems, so it can be done

I agree that you have to be careful and think it through properly, as these are not so easily ventilated as some other designs.

 

[Offshoreorca]

Have you made a coop page article showing your modifications and how you achieved good ventilation?

It would be very useful for the many people who end up with a gambrel-roof shed to convert.

I have a coop page, but it doesn't discuss ventilation modifications. I can certainly work on adding this over the coming months!

A combination of good ventilation, keeping the coop "clean" (deep bedding over the winter), and encouraging birds to maximize their time spent outside, has resulting in no issues with excess moisture or ammonia.

 

[3KillerBs]

I have a coop page, but it doesn't discuss ventilation modifications. I can certainly work on adding this over the coming months!

A combination of good ventilation, keeping the coop "clean" (deep bedding over the winter), and encouraging birds to maximize their time spent outside, has resulting in no issues with excess moisture or ammonia.

Please do. It would be really informative.

 

[Sally PB]

We do have a gambrel-style roof, but have had no issues with ventilation at all (we certainly did modify this a lot with hardware cloth covered venting). Winter temperatures are down to -20C/-4F and we are in a high humidity coastal area, with no frost bite or other common ventilation problems, so it can be done

I agree that you have to be careful and think it through properly, as these are not so easily ventilated as some other designs.

Until you can write about it, can you post some pictures?

 

[MTKitty]

We installed a series of larger hooded dryer vents that have an outside meant to protect against incoming snow without sacrificing ventilation.

Thank you for a marvelous idea! I’ve been struggling with how to increase ventilation w/o letting in more moisture. This would work beautifully.