Broodiness Cycle

x2 to the above 2 comments. There can be no floor in the cage. It needs to be elevated with a wire bottom.
If the supports for the floor are spaced too far apart for her to sit comfortably, cover it with a piece of hardware cloth.
Our homemade broody jails were made of 1X2 welded wire fencing with some wood lath on the edges for support hanging from the ceiling.
Cool air has to reach the hen's underside to break the hormone cycle. If she can plunk her underside down on a solid surface, that doesn't qualify as broody jail.
That may be the problem. The hormone cycle is never completely broken. With the proper setup, it usually only takes about 2 days.

Tray works fine. The crate is raised off the floor. This is the way I do it every time. 3 days, she is broke. She never tries to "nest" on the tray. She also has a roost that she does roost on inside the crate.
 
I always leave the tray in. I've been doing it this way for 1.5 years of her constant broodiness. 3 days in it she is broke. The problem isnt that I cant break her, the problem is she goes broody a lot. I always put her in jail, this is the first time I didnt (until day before yesterday). She never sits on the tray. She does have a roost and when she does decide to sit, she sits on the roost. This way has always worked for me, so it does qualify as a broody jail.

I just had read of a lot of people letting the hens break their own broodiness, and that is what I was inquiring about. But it is apparent, her strong will to hatch a clutch wont allow her to break on her own without killing herself.
 
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Understood. Whatever works.
The wire bottom cage is the way I've done it for 67 years.
In fact, people have been breaking setters that way for centuries maybe eons.

She does break everytime. I just had read people saying they let them break on their own. That's what I was curious about... but me thinks she is just stubborn and needs the cage lol
 
Wire bottom cools them quicker and keeps their feet cleaner..and the tray easier to clean.
I have added 14ga 1x2 cage mesh inside crate under tray.
If mesh is installed carefully then tray can used inside or underneath or not at all.
If you look closely here you can see how I attached the mesh and that the tray is under the crate to catch poops, this bird was being observed for illness.
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I just had read of a lot of people letting the hens break their own broodiness, and that is what I was inquiring about. But it is apparent, her strong will to hatch a clutch wont allow her to break on her own without killing herself.
I haven't had to use a wire cage in eight years. But, I think not only does the breed of hen make a difference, I think keeping arrangements do as well.
My annual broodiness tally has gone up to 19 tonight. Little Donk is all puffed up and erping at everyone (she doesn't cluck, she erps :D) She's got a nest in the vegetable garden this time. I may even let her sit on a limited number of eggs.
 
I read that leaving them to break on their own can take a long time, (sometimes) lol.
Hope you don't think I was having a go about the tray, I was just trying to help.
As already said keeping the tray out help to keep her cool underneath, I'm no expert but this must play a part.
I've only ever broke 2 hens and like you it took 3 days, but you have a recurring broody, I understand it is driving you nuts with it keep happening, I would be too.
 
I read that leaving them to break on their own can take a long time, (sometimes) lol.
Hope you don't think I was having a go about the tray, I was just trying to help.
As already said keeping the tray out help to keep her cool underneath, I'm no expert but this must play a part.
I've only ever broke 2 hens and like you it took 3 days, but you have a recurring broody, I understand it is driving you nuts with it keep happening, I would be too.

Oh no, not at all! I knew you were just sharing advice! :)

I dont mind her being broody... I just hate messing with the cage lol... I may let her hatch a couple eggs if I can find someone to take the babies later.
 

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