Caged Bird and Parrot Thread!!!!

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Have been reading the parrot wizards 2nd edition on "well behaved parrots." So far, per the book, I've gone abt some things totally wrong & apparently have a anomaly of a bird because we're both alive and unharmed. (sarcasm intended).
I'm curious abt the experiences others have had beyond what books say, bc I find myself thinking "hmm, not my bird" A LOT. Granted, Yoshi is roughly 8 months old, so not a baby but not yet hormonal. I know this can change.
1. I'd been free feeding,& it hasn't seemed to deter her willingness to training. Granted, I was putting more than necessary in bowl. I took the advice to not free feed and only feed after training sessions. It seems like what that got me is a disgruntled bird that just stared at me like a child sent to school w/o breakfast. It's been this way for a week, so I'm inclined to return to letting her eat before, but from observing her habits, only abt 20 pellets are needed, not 1/2 a bowl full.
2. She won't touch fresh food, or atleast, nothing I've tried so far. She will eat dehydrated papaya, coconut & pineapple. I bought pine nuts, walnuts and almonds, crunched them up into smaller pieces, but she doesn't seem much interested, nibbles then drops. I tried dehydrated vegetables, she throws them around. She once took a nibble of banana from my husband but left the rest & never ate it again, so I'm going to try dehydrated bananas. She loves dehydrated sprouts. If I hand her a pellet as a treat, she's happy as a clam.
So, if she refuses fresh food, am I neglecting her nutritionally? She does like nutriberries if I crush them up for her, but those have some form of syrup in them, aka sugar, and I'm hesitant to use as anything more than an occasional treat. I threw out the fancy colored food that came with her (it was 50/50 pellets/seed) and now have uncolored Lafeber's and Zupreme pellets.
3. She's a down picker. I asked the vet about this when we went in for a trim, but the vet said this was common in Quakers, that she'd checked her skin & feathers & saw no bald spots or skin irritation, so she wasn't concerned abt it. I had read it was a sign of stress or nutritional deficiency-hence my concern. I'd also read that beak trimming isn't necessary unless there's a nutritional deficiency. Again, vet didn't point this out, but did have to trim her beak. We'd gone in so vet could teach me beak, wing & nail trimming.
4. Apparently Yo's wings were cut too short to begin with, because even though they've grown some since I've had her, vet said they were too short to clip. "But she's started flying!" I said. She's supposed to, the vet said. 🤔 Debating just letting her wings grow out. That one the Parrot Wizard advocates, says it's easier to train, among other things. My fear is her getting hurt when her flapping no longer keeps her airborn.
5. "Birds have no connection emotionally to humans." Now, if that's true, why are they so cuddly & demand attention? Yoshi responds more to cuddles & praise than those training treats, goes absolutely bananas when one (only one) of my grandsons approaches her. He's her designated survivor if she outlives me.
As for the notion of stress, she's a very chill bird. She's neither protective nor defiant of her cage, not bashful, open to meeting ppl. Occasionally one of the dogs wanders into her room when the gate is open, and she watches but doesn't react. She accepts cage time without fussing and comes back out when I open the door and tell her to come. She gives me abt an hour after her light comes on before letting me know it's time for me to be in there. (Yes, she has her own room where she can see down the hallway when the door is open, but safe from dogs and has quiet time at night.)
 
1. I have zero experience of Quakers.
2. I have spent a large section of my 60+ yrs round parrots.
3. Birds like people are individuals - just as kids have not read Dr Spock, so birds have not read the parrot wizards. :)
4. All the birds I know like fresh greens - best supplied (in my experience) via planting birdseed (which is better for them than many sellers of pellets will say it is) and when the plant produces seed heads feed to the birds green (extra nutritious)
5. My and my families birds have always had access to natural wood perches for chewing on - so beak trimming is rarely ever needed. Ditto nail trimming.
6. Birds are meant to fly - so I am very anti wing trimming of any kind. However, if this is felt necessary for safety Trim only the largest flight feathers on one wing. Gliders work with short wings, but nothing works with uneven wings.
 
1. I have zero experience of Quakers.
2. I have spent a large section of my 60+ yrs round parrots.
3. Birds like people are individuals - just as kids have not read Dr Spock, so birds have not read the parrot wizards. :)
4. All the birds I know like fresh greens - best supplied (in my experience) via planting birdseed (which is better for them than many sellers of pellets will say it is) and when the plant produces seed heads feed to the birds green (extra nutritious)
5. My and my families birds have always had access to natural wood perches for chewing on - so beak trimming is rarely ever needed. Ditto nail trimming.
6. Birds are meant to fly - so I am very anti wing trimming of any kind. However, if this is felt necessary for safety Trim only the largest flight feathers on one wing. Gliders work with short wings, but nothing works with uneven wings.
She also has natural wood perches,& I do see her scraping her beak and gnawing. 😁 re reading parrot wizards. She does look over my shoulder at times while I'm reading.😉
 
I love this backpack! Mind if I ask where you got it from? I have one for my dove ( we go on lots of walks), but that one looks very nice even for traveling! :love
Amazon! I like it, although I’ll probably switch the perch out bc it’s too large for the cockatiel.

https://a.co/d/016KEd1k
 
Have been reading the parrot wizards 2nd edition on "well behaved parrots." So far, per the book, I've gone abt some things totally wrong & apparently have a anomaly of a bird because we're both alive and unharmed. (sarcasm intended).
I'm curious abt the experiences others have had beyond what books say, bc I find myself thinking "hmm, not my bird" A LOT. Granted, Yoshi is roughly 8 months old, so not a baby but not yet hormonal. I know this can change.
1. I'd been free feeding,& it hasn't seemed to deter her willingness to training. Granted, I was putting more than necessary in bowl. I took the advice to not free feed and only feed after training sessions. It seems like what that got me is a disgruntled bird that just stared at me like a child sent to school w/o breakfast. It's been this way for a week, so I'm inclined to return to letting her eat before, but from observing her habits, only abt 20 pellets are needed, not 1/2 a bowl full.
2. She won't touch fresh food, or atleast, nothing I've tried so far. She will eat dehydrated papaya, coconut & pineapple. I bought pine nuts, walnuts and almonds, crunched them up into smaller pieces, but she doesn't seem much interested, nibbles then drops. I tried dehydrated vegetables, she throws them around. She once took a nibble of banana from my husband but left the rest & never ate it again, so I'm going to try dehydrated bananas. She loves dehydrated sprouts. If I hand her a pellet as a treat, she's happy as a clam.
So, if she refuses fresh food, am I neglecting her nutritionally? She does like nutriberries if I crush them up for her, but those have some form of syrup in them, aka sugar, and I'm hesitant to use as anything more than an occasional treat. I threw out the fancy colored food that came with her (it was 50/50 pellets/seed) and now have uncolored Lafeber's and Zupreme pellets.
3. She's a down picker. I asked the vet about this when we went in for a trim, but the vet said this was common in Quakers, that she'd checked her skin & feathers & saw no bald spots or skin irritation, so she wasn't concerned abt it. I had read it was a sign of stress or nutritional deficiency-hence my concern. I'd also read that beak trimming isn't necessary unless there's a nutritional deficiency. Again, vet didn't point this out, but did have to trim her beak. We'd gone in so vet could teach me beak, wing & nail trimming.
4. Apparently Yo's wings were cut too short to begin with, because even though they've grown some since I've had her, vet said they were too short to clip. "But she's started flying!" I said. She's supposed to, the vet said. 🤔 Debating just letting her wings grow out. That one the Parrot Wizard advocates, says it's easier to train, among other things. My fear is her getting hurt when her flapping no longer keeps her airborn.
5. "Birds have no connection emotionally to humans." Now, if that's true, why are they so cuddly & demand attention? Yoshi responds more to cuddles & praise than those training treats, goes absolutely bananas when one (only one) of my grandsons approaches her. He's her designated survivor if she outlives me.
As for the notion of stress, she's a very chill bird. She's neither protective nor defiant of her cage, not bashful, open to meeting ppl. Occasionally one of the dogs wanders into her room when the gate is open, and she watches but doesn't react. She accepts cage time without fussing and comes back out when I open the door and tell her to come. She gives me abt an hour after her light comes on before letting me know it's time for me to be in there. (Yes, she has her own room where she can see down the hallway when the door is open, but safe from dogs and has quiet time at night.)
Hello, I have many rescue parrots including 2 Quakers. They all have individual personalities and food preferences. My Quakers will nibble on some greens and fruit, but my cockatoos refuse to eat any vegetable matter. Just offer and see what they like.

Always have food available, free feed the basic pellets. This should never be withheld as birds have very high metabolic rates. This will cause more stress. We feed all our birds Roudybush crumble (budgies all the way to my umbrella cockatoo). For birds that don’t like other foods, this is nutritionally complete and we have not had any issues with our birds due to deficiencies over years of using this.

Treats only should be used for training purposes or reinforcing good behavior. For our smaller birds (including the Quakers) I give them millet spray balls every time they go back inside their cages when asked…they know “Inside”.

Our cockatoos love sunflower seeds so this is only given as a training treat. Except when my husband gives them some anyway when I’m at work ‘cuz he’s a big softie.

I have found parrot books to be…well they are in the garbage now. Read and glean useful points but there is not only one right way. One author kept all her birds with clipped wings and insisted this is the only way. Nonsense.

Currently, all our birds are flighted. I did clip their wings when first adopted to avoid panic crashes into walls, windows and prevent injury. It also helped with training. Once their wing primaries grew out they were familiar with the surroundings, could fly safely, and return to the cage or hand for a treat.

One of our Quakers is very cage aggressive and I did clip her wings to prevent her from flying and attacking me last year. They have since grown out again and she is calmer when out of the cage (for now).

Quakers are extremely social and intelligent birds. Unless they are with you all day, they do better with companions. Initially both our Quakers had separate cages and they eventually decided to move in together on their own. Stress from boredom or loneliness will lead to feather barbering and plucking. Offer a bath (shallow large bowl or pie plate) and water spritzes often.

Quakers needs a very enriched environment with lots of toys (as do all parrots). They are the only parrot species that build nests and mine LOVE building. I have used wood coffee stirrers and most recently some natural vine.

Hope this helps and feel free to ask me any questions!

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Hello, I have many rescue parrots including 2 Quakers. They all have individual personalities and food preferences. My Quakers will nibble on some greens and fruit, but my cockatoos refuse to eat any vegetable matter. Just offer and see what they like.

Always have food available, free feed the basic pellets. This should never be withheld as birds have very high metabolic rates. This will cause more stress. We feed all our birds Roudybush crumble (budgies all the way to my umbrella cockatoo). For birds that don’t like other foods, this is nutritionally complete and we have not had any issues with our birds due to deficiencies over years of using this.

Treats only should be used for training purposes or reinforcing good behavior. For our smaller birds (including the Quakers) I give them millet spray balls every time they go back inside their cages when asked…they know “Inside”.

Our cockatoos love sunflower seeds so this is only given as a training treat. Except when my husband gives them some anyway when I’m at work ‘cuz he’s a big softie.

I have found parrot books to be…well they are in the garbage now. Read and glean useful points but there is not only one right way. One author kept all her birds with clipped wings and insisted this is the only way. Nonsense.

Currently, all our birds are flighted. I did clip their wings when first adopted to avoid panic crashes into walls, windows and prevent injury. It also helped with training. Once their wing primaries grew out they were familiar with the surroundings, could fly safely, and return to the cage or hand for a treat.

One of our Quakers is very cage aggressive and I did clip her wings to prevent her from flying and attacking me last year. They have since grown out again and she is calmer when out of the cage (for now).

Quakers are extremely social and intelligent birds. Unless they are with you all day, they do better with companions. Initially both our Quakers had separate cages and they eventually decided to move in together on their own. Stress from boredom or loneliness will lead to feather barbering and plucking. Offer a bath (shallow large bowl or pie plate) and water spritzes often.

Quakers needs a very enriched environment with lots of toys (as do all parrots). They are the only parrot species that build nests and mine LOVE building. I have used wood coffee stirrers and most recently some natural vine.

Hope this helps and feel free to ask me any questions!

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Love those lolly-stick things woven into the bars! Such a great idea. Ours are in need of a little more enrichment in my opinion.
 
Have been reading the parrot wizards 2nd edition on "well behaved parrots." So far, per the book, I've gone abt some things totally wrong & apparently have a anomaly of a bird because we're both alive and unharmed. (sarcasm intended).
I'm curious abt the experiences others have had beyond what books say, bc I find myself thinking "hmm, not my bird" A LOT. Granted, Yoshi is roughly 8 months old, so not a baby but not yet hormonal. I know this can change.
1. I'd been free feeding,& it hasn't seemed to deter her willingness to training. Granted, I was putting more than necessary in bowl. I took the advice to not free feed and only feed after training sessions. It seems like what that got me is a disgruntled bird that just stared at me like a child sent to school w/o breakfast. It's been this way for a week, so I'm inclined to return to letting her eat before, but from observing her habits, only abt 20 pellets are needed, not 1/2 a bowl full.
2. She won't touch fresh food, or atleast, nothing I've tried so far. She will eat dehydrated papaya, coconut & pineapple. I bought pine nuts, walnuts and almonds, crunched them up into smaller pieces, but she doesn't seem much interested, nibbles then drops. I tried dehydrated vegetables, she throws them around. She once took a nibble of banana from my husband but left the rest & never ate it again, so I'm going to try dehydrated bananas. She loves dehydrated sprouts. If I hand her a pellet as a treat, she's happy as a clam.
So, if she refuses fresh food, am I neglecting her nutritionally? She does like nutriberries if I crush them up for her, but those have some form of syrup in them, aka sugar, and I'm hesitant to use as anything more than an occasional treat. I threw out the fancy colored food that came with her (it was 50/50 pellets/seed) and now have uncolored Lafeber's and Zupreme pellets.
3. She's a down picker. I asked the vet about this when we went in for a trim, but the vet said this was common in Quakers, that she'd checked her skin & feathers & saw no bald spots or skin irritation, so she wasn't concerned abt it. I had read it was a sign of stress or nutritional deficiency-hence my concern. I'd also read that beak trimming isn't necessary unless there's a nutritional deficiency. Again, vet didn't point this out, but did have to trim her beak. We'd gone in so vet could teach me beak, wing & nail trimming.
4. Apparently Yo's wings were cut too short to begin with, because even though they've grown some since I've had her, vet said they were too short to clip. "But she's started flying!" I said. She's supposed to, the vet said. 🤔 Debating just letting her wings grow out. That one the Parrot Wizard advocates, says it's easier to train, among other things. My fear is her getting hurt when her flapping no longer keeps her airborn.
5. "Birds have no connection emotionally to humans." Now, if that's true, why are they so cuddly & demand attention? Yoshi responds more to cuddles & praise than those training treats, goes absolutely bananas when one (only one) of my grandsons approaches her. He's her designated survivor if she outlives me.
As for the notion of stress, she's a very chill bird. She's neither protective nor defiant of her cage, not bashful, open to meeting ppl. Occasionally one of the dogs wanders into her room when the gate is open, and she watches but doesn't react. She accepts cage time without fussing and comes back out when I open the door and tell her to come. She gives me abt an hour after her light comes on before letting me know it's time for me to be in there. (Yes, she has her own room where she can see down the hallway when the door is open, but safe from dogs and has quiet time at night.)
The Parrot wizard is not one of the names that encourages me to be following their advice. I don’t know of them specifically but know it's a name that often gets lumped with Birdtricks and that means I know of basically no one who would reccomend them.

I ALWAYS free feed. Food management is very dangerous because if done incorrect can kill your bird as mentioned above, high metabolism. The smaller the bird, the more dangerous.

How have you tried fresh food? There's SO many options and it can take a while to figure out what's correct for your bird. Dehydrated, freeze dried, fresh. "Chop" or "Not chop" (finally diced and mixed or loosely cut chunks/whole foods). Birdie bread? Have you tried sprouting seeds?
Dried foods are good for leaving a available in the cage but many bird have very dry diets already, trying fresh is always a good idea. Food should be fun for your bird, so it means aiming for as much variety as possible is enrichment.
Just as a note, coloured pellets aren't as bad as many people make them out to be ;) so if those are something you bird likes and eats well, don't be put off by the people who go on about there only being one actually healthy pellet.

I will only have flighted birds as ime with a couple of budgies, it mentally changes them. They lack confidence in themselves and their control over situations. Also, many clipped birds CAN fly, so clipping doesn't even help with preventing escapes or anything. With the right gust of wind, your bird will be gone whether clipped or not. Change the environment FOR your bird, don't try to change the bird.
 

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