California - Northern

[Happy Chooks]

Quote: x2!

Quote:
Yes, put the eggs in when it's warmed up. Let it warm back up on it's own after putting the eggs in to have it stabilize. Then if it's too low, adjust some and wait. If it gets too high (103 or higher) immediately open the lid and let the heat out and give a 1/2 turn down on the thermostat. Add water to the outside tray when you add the eggs. I don't add water again until lockdown (3 days before hatch).

As for the egg turner, you won't see it moving. If you come back 6 hours later and the eggs are in a different position, you're good. It moves really, really slowly.

I don't candle much as I think the more they are left alone, the better for the developing embryo. I will usually candle somewhere in the 7-10 day range and again at lockdown to remove any quitters. By 7-10 days you should see veining and some movement. By 18 days, you will see all dark, except for the air sac.

 

[Luvinmyhurd]

Combs have more to do with blood flow. Worms can make combs go pale along with just molting.

Are they laying eggs?

Laying hens and my Roos. There not super pale. I'm going to send in a sample to UC Davis. Hopefully soon. Is there anything else I should/could do aside that?

 

[Luvinmyhurd]

x2!



Yes, put the eggs in when it's warmed up.  Let it warm back up on it's own after putting the eggs in to have it stabilize.  Then if it's too low, adjust some and wait.  If it gets too high (103 or higher) immediately open the lid and let the heat out and give a 1/2 turn down on the thermostat.  Add water to the outside tray when you add the eggs.  I don't add water again until lockdown (3 days before hatch).

As for the egg turner, you won't see it moving.  If you come back 6 hours later and the eggs are in a different position, you're good.  It moves really, really slowly.

I don't candle much as I think the more they are left alone, the better for the developing embryo.  I will usually candle somewhere in the 7-10 day range and again at lockdown to remove any quitters.  By 7-10 days you should see veining and some movement.  By 18 days, you will see all dark, except for the air sac.

I put water in the center already. Should I poor it out and put it on the outside (and wait till I put the eggs in?) The instructions said center. And also to add water every couple days.

 

[ronott1]

Laying hens and my Roos. There not super pale. I'm going to send in a sample to UC Davis. Hopefully soon. Is there anything else I should/could do aside that?

I would give them save a chick pro biotic(TSC sells it in woodland) once a week. Also, feed them Flock raiser type feed. Roosters can get too much calcium from layer. Give them free choice calcium.

It is also good for them to have extra protein in the winter.

 

[ronott1]

I put water in the center already. Should I poor it out and put it on the outside (and wait till I put the eggs in?) The instructions said center. And also to add water every couple days.

Leave the water where it is. It is more important to start the eggs incubating.

I use a hygrometer and keep humidity as close to 35% as possible. It is ok if humidity goes up or down. If the well you are using bumps humidity too high, then use a smaller one next time. I let the humidity go down to 25 before refilling.

The first hatch is a big learning experience. look at the bottom of this post in my signature file and read the Hatching 101 article there. Please keep asking questions!

 

[Hangtown Farms]

thanks everyone

 

[Luvinmyhurd]

Leave the water where it is. It is more important to start the eggs incubating.

 
I use a hygrometer and keep humidity as close to 35% as possible. It is ok if humidity goes up or down. If the well you are using bumps humidity too high, then use a smaller one next time. I let the humidity go down to 25 before refilling.

The first hatch is a big learning experience. look at the bottom of this post in my signature file and read the Hatching 101 article there. Please keep asking questions!

Ok. I don't have a hydrometer. I'll look into getting one but for this hatch I'll see how it goes. I don't see your signature file... Does it show on my phone (that's my sol source of internet)? Thanks for all the help! I'm SOO thankful for the people on this thread! I'd be lost! Or desperately searching the internet.

 

[Luvinmyhurd]

I would give them save a chick pro biotic(TSC sells it in woodland) once a week. Also, feed them Flock raiser type feed. Roosters can get too much calcium from layer. Give them free choice calcium.

It is also good for them to have extra protein in the winter.

Looks like I need to visit the feed store tomorrow! I've been doing organic layer... I wonder if they have an organic flock raiser..? Does the feed store have calcium too? What do you do for extra protein?

 

[ronott1]

Looks like I need to visit the feed store tomorrow! I've been doing organic layer... I wonder if they have an organic flock raiser..? Does the feed store have calcium too? What do you do for extra protein?

Flock Raiser or more likely Grower will be 20% protein. That is good for them.

The feed store should have Oyster Shell Calcium. I put it into a small chick feeder for them to eat when they want to.

This is the link for Incubating: https://www.backyardchickens.com/a/hatching-eggs-101

 

[Audio51]

Looks really good! I've bookmarked it for future reference.

I have no experience using legbands but I have spent too much time

researching what I wanted to use and have ordered numbered colored zip ties from Strombergs. Each year I plan on placing a new color of zips on one year old chickens after they are finished growing and will then know how old each bird is. I can also track by number individual birds.

If I need help keeping track of the chicks as they grow I have self adhesive bandage wraps that comes in lots of colors. Just snip off a 1/4" and wrap. I use this to see if I can guess the boys from the girls as chicks.

Wow...didn't know the Zip ties existed for this purpose. Thanks!