Can turkeys eat chick food?

[Better Than Rubies]

I'm asking because yesterday my instructor said they shouldn't have any; that it's bad for them. Is that true, does anyone know? And how bad for them might it be, and why?
I'm brooding my lone turkey with my chicks. They all seem perfectly healthy, though the turk is a bit mean to the chick(s) I suspect to be cocks.
I'm feeding them a mix (in one feeder) of 22% meatbird/gamebird starter (for the turkey) and 18% non-medicated chick food starter/grower (for the chicks). And they're near(ing) four-weeks old.

Another question: He's being raised with a few of the chicks, but when they're all older--and since they already stand up to each other quite a bit now--might that pose future problems of fighting when adults? I understand the turkey could kill or seriously injure a chicken...be it rooster or hen, since he's / so much bigger than them. Or do you think they should get along peaceably when they mature? If need be, I probably will separate them when (older), even though I had planned and hoped for them to all live together eventually. And I am hoping to get one or two adult turkey hens for my lil' guy at a way later date.

Thanks in advance.

 

[EggSighted4Life]

I'm asking because yesterday my instructor said they shouldn't have any; that it's bad for them. Is that true, does anyone know? And how bad for them might it be, and why?

Bare minimum you would get extremely stunted growth and development, I think. But your already 4 weeks in? Turkey polts need 30% protein and a higher ratio of amino acids than chickens is my understanding. I would put all on 30% protein Purina turkey starter... If that can;t be found maybe a game bird starter would be the next best choice?? I raise several breeds on it when I wanna give them an extra good start. It would (or could) be harmful if fed long term to adult chickens so switching to a lower protein feed once mature is advised.

Are you giving any treats or supplements?

Turkeys very much can kill a chicken or rooster. Seems they may get along until they don't. All are individuals. My friends turkeys killed one of her chicken hens and MAYBE one of her small dogs if I remember correctly. The remaining two turkey hens that were least aggressive stayed on and now protect the flock... putting overly amorous cockerels in their place and sounding the alarm when something is unusual They will be building a roofed pen before adding any more Toms.

Read up on blackhead in turkeys kept with chickens and please get a fecal float or use the correct wormer to treat your flock and avoid the issue IF needed. Different pastures with different weather conditions and stock loads may also have different parasite loads.

Until 8-10 weeks...
https://www.purinamills.com/game-bird-feed/products/detail/purina-game-bird-turkey-startena

After that until lay...
https://www.purinamills.com/chicken-feed/products/detail/purina-flock-raiser-crumbles

The flock raiser crumbles are what I feed all my birds all the time. I don't keep turkeys. And I provide oyster shell on the side for anyone actively laying. I cut it with the turkey starter to increase protein during molt and for chicks.

Hope this is helpful!

Pics always welcome.

 

[R2elk]

I'm asking because yesterday my instructor said they shouldn't have any; that it's bad for them. Is that true, does anyone know? And how bad for them might it be, and why?
I'm brooding my lone turkey with my chicks. They all seem perfectly healthy, though the turk is a bit mean to the chick(s) I suspect to be cocks.
I'm feeding them a mix (in one feeder) of 22% meatbird/gamebird starter (for the turkey) and 18% non-medicated chick food starter/grower (for the chicks). And they're near(ing) four-weeks old.

Another question: He's being raised with a few of the chicks, but when they're all older--and since they already stand up to each other quite a bit now--might that pose future problems of fighting when adults? I understand the turkey could kill or seriously injure a chicken...be it rooster or hen, since he's / so much bigger than them. Or do you think they should get along peaceably when they mature? If need be, I probably will separate them when (older), even though I had planned and hoped for them to all live together eventually. And I am hoping to get one or two adult turkey hens for my lil' guy at a way later date.

Thanks in advance.

Your instructor told you the truth. Chick food does not have the proper amount of protein that poults need because of their higher metabolism and rapid growth rates. It isn't just about the protein. Chick food also does not contain the proper amounts of lysine, methionine and niacin that the poults also need. Poults getting insufficient niacin can develop severe leg and joint issues.

It is stupid to mix a medicated feed with a non-medicated feed because the medicated feed contains the proper amount of medication. Mixing it with a non-medicated feed reduces this amount below optimum levels making the medication ineffective and possibly conditioning the target to become immune to the medication.

The turkey should be on a quality turkey or gamebird starter that is 28% to 30% protein.

There has been research done which indicates that improper feed can cause aggression in turkeys.

Food Effects on Aggressive Turkeys

Click on the Aggressive behavior link to download the pdf.

Personally I don't consider 18% protein chick starter to be a quality feed even for chicks. I normally use a 23% to 24% protein chick starter when I raise chicks alone. If I have chicks and poults or keets together in the same brooder, they all get a quality turkey or gamebird starter that is 28% protein. The higher quality feed is not harmful to chicks but chick starter can be harmful to poults or keets.

Poults that are raised with chicks become imprinted by the chicks and lose the ability to understand that chickens are not turkeys when they are adults. This lack of recognition can be harmful to the chickens especially if a lone tom turkey is raised with them. When breeding season comes around the tom turkey will try to mate with the chickens and this usually ends bad for the chickens.

It is not a good idea to raise a turkey by itself as they are a flock bird and need the company of their own kind.

 

[EggSighted4Life]

It is stupid to mix a medicated feed with a non-medicated feed because the medicated feed contains the proper amount of medication.

Lack of experience, misunderstanding, naivety maybe. A stupid mistake does not equal a stupid person. I understand you didn't say anyone specific. Just lightening the atmosphere a little.

Great post though! I know nutrition is serious, and agree completely with your post. I wasn't acquainted with my friend at the time her turkey drama unfolded, and can't remember what she may have been feeding. Seems like they may even use turkey starter for chicks... but I WILL be sure to share the information with them for their next adventure. Thanks for using your time and experience to support this awesome community and our pets/livestock!

 

[Better Than Rubies]

Thank you both for the help/advice.
Yes, they should be exactly four-weeks tomorrow.
I have a Feldman's and Orscheln's, and a local feed store that I believe carries the same food the other two do. Then there's Tractor Supply around 45 minutes away, but we don't go to that one, because it's farther out than the other three. I normally get my chicken food from Orscheln's. And none of the places sell chick food with that high of a protein percent...the highest percentage is 24%, and that's only for the gamebirds, not even the chicks. I did just recently pick up a 5-lb bag (I don't think they have bigger sizes of that) of Manna Pro 24% non-medicated gamebird/showbird starter/grower for Slater my turkey. But I probably won't start him on that 'til the other bag is gone, which it's getting closer.

It is stupid to mix a medicated feed with a non-medicated feed because the medicated feed contains the proper amount of medication. Mixing it with a non-medicated feed reduces this amount below optimum levels making the medication ineffective and possibly conditioning the target to become immune to the medication.

Yes, I'm somewhat aware of that. I, personally, do not like medicated food, and would rather not use it (unless seemingly needed by a weak chick, perhaps), so I always get un-medicated chick food, and then when I picked up the turkey feed, I just got that bag instead of the new one I just mentioned, because they were the same price, but that was a ten-pound bag instead of a 5-lb. When I researched more on the other food online, then I found that one isn't medicated, so once he's finished with his current bag, then I want to start him on the new one. I guess it doesn't matter as much, though, because we won't be eating his eggs if he's a male, since he won't be laying any, and we won't be eating him, either, when he's an adult. But I still don't care for the medicated feed, because I want them to get naturally resistant to diseases, and grow up naturally and be strong and very healthy. But it does really matter now, since you think I should just feed him and the chicks the turkey food, and no more chick food right now?

When he's older, I plan on feeding him 16% All Flock crumbles, or, more preferably, 20% All Flock pellets (non-medicated as well, I'm pretty sure).

At approximately what age is acceptable for him to eat a feed with lower protein levels? And when is he done 'starting' and can be considered 'growing,' so to speak (like for chicks, I know they can move to a grower at 6-weeks)? And what age is appropriate for him to go outside, since I know the poults are a little less cold hardy then chicks?

Lack of experience, misunderstanding, naivety maybe. A stupid mistake does not equal a stupid person. I understand you didn't say anyone specific. Just lightening the atmosphere a little.

Thank you, EggSighted. When I was picking out the food, I didn't think much of it being medicated or not, since it didn't say either way, but I should've known that when it doesn't say, then it seems to be typically medicated, I feel like.

 

[Better Than Rubies]

Oh, and here's some pictures I took about ten days ago, of him acting like a tom.

 

[R2elk]

Oh, and here's some pictures I took about ten days ago, of him acting like a tom.
View attachment 1718833 View attachment 1718834

That appears to be a Self Blue (aka Lavender).

Strutting can be both a male or a female behavior. Strutting at an early age is not necessarily an indication that the poult is a male. People have had poults that strutted at an early age turn out to be hens. It may be a male but you will have to wait until it is mature before you will know for sure. Males can often be distinguished by the time they are 3 months old although late developers may take 6 months or longer before they can be positively identified.

At this age the strutting is just a dominance display.

 

[R2elk]

At approximately what age is acceptable for him to eat a feed with lower protein levels? And when is he done 'starting' and can be considered 'growing,' so to speak (like for chicks, I know they can move to a grower at 6-weeks)? And what age is appropriate for him to go outside, since I know the poults are a little less cold hardy then chicks?

Starter from 0 to 6 weeks. Grower from 7 to 12 weeks. Adult food from 13 weeks on.

Poults can go outside when they are fully feathered and acclimated to the ambient temperature. Depending on how and where they are raised, this can be at different ages. Turkey hens brooding their own poults have them outside on day one. In that case the poults have their own portable heat source (the hen) and come and go from under at will in almost any temperatures.

I have a Feldman's and Orscheln's, and a local feed store that I believe carries the same food the other two do. Then there's Tractor Supply around 45 minutes away, but we don't go to that one, because it's farther out than the other three. I normally get my chicken food from Orscheln's. And none of the places sell chick food with that high of a protein percent...the highest percentage is 24%, and that's only for the gamebirds, not even the chicks.

Chain stores do not have your poultry's best interest in mind. Their management groups decide what feeds to carry based on profit only. Depending on who the local manager is, you may be able to order the proper feed. TSC carries Purina which makes an appropriate turkey or gamebird starter. Some local managers will cooperate and special order what you need for you but there are others that do not understand the concept of ordering in something for a sure sale.

I currently have to get my turkey starter and high quality chick starter from Sutherlands (a lumber/hardware store) because the local chain feed stores are run by people that can't be bothered by carrying proper feed. One local chain store has actually carried a "chick starter" that only had 14% protein in it.

 

[EggSighted4Life]

since it didn't say either way, but I should've known that when it doesn't say, then it seems to be typically medicated, I feel like.

I disagree actually and think if it doesn't say it had best NOT be medicated, by law. But I'm an intense ingredient label reader and will stay at the store an hour if needed while I make comparisons before a final decision.

Medicated feed in the US has low dose amprolium in it... it mimics thiamine to starve out and slow the growth of coccidia (as they won't be focused on consuming the real thiamine, like a trick). They still develop their natural resistance, just with assistance. It isn't an antibiotic. While I don't prefer medicated feed, I do understand that coccidiosis is one of the most costly losses to large operations and even for home keepers can be deadly fast. Coccidia can develop tolerance to the amprolium and sulpha drug may need to be used.

you think I should just feed him and the chicks the turkey food, and no more chick food right now?

Correct.

At approximately what age is acceptable for him to eat a feed with lower protein levels? And when is he done 'starting' and can be considered 'growing,' so to speak (like for chicks, I know they can move to a grower at 6-weeks)?

A word about "grower" or ANY other term used to describe the feed... it all confusing when different companies use different names for the same thing... marketing gimmick IMO. I'm sure it is meant as a general guide. The MAIN difference in any of them is protein and calcium content, first and foremost. After that comes amino acids and other vitamin/mineral profiles that have less impact overall than protein and calcium as long as you are using something formulated for the correct species and age group, almost always listed on the bag..

The 2 links I provided in post number two had age ranges listed in both of them, and should be a good general guideline. One of my LFS carries Purina brand while the other carries something more regional and less well known, 28% protein game bird starter. Both will see if they can order what I want even if they don't carry it. The price is always still about the same as it's just added to their standard delivery within the next week or two.

Final word about feed... energy aka calories comes from only 3 sources... Fat, protein, and carbohydrates including fiber. While all are needed, given the choice... I would choose protein calories as the most nutritious or providing the most overall true benefit and building block. Noting not all proteins are created equal, animal verses plant. Poultry require amino acids from animal protein. The amino acids are added into our mostly vegetarian feeds. The lower protein levels often recommended by people (or on the bags) are also often the bare minimum for light bodied layer breeds. Protein cost more to produce than corn so higher protein feeds will usually cost more.. but ya get what ya pay for. I NEVER aim for the minimum, nutrition wise... as I believe, aside from genetics.. nutrition is the foundation to a healthy immune system.

He is a looker!

ETA: Growing feathers are made from 90% protein and it's amino acids. Imagine how awesome he would look if on correct feed already. Hang on there!