If the feathers are completely plucked, they will start to grow back in. But if they are broken, they won't grow in until molt.
I would feed the whole egg since the white is pure protein. The yolk is nutrient dense but that's also where all the fat is. Feeding more protein, you may not see immediate results.. as things take time to level out. So it would take a bully a short while for her system to say OK I'm good before she quits picking, IF it hasn't just become habit already. And then it would take longer than that for the feathers to come back in. In Nevada, they might even be experiencing sunburn right now. I have a girl who got into my stag pen and had all her neck feathers pulled out. She is still laying and the feathers have been pins for a very long time, several months!
I do also wonder... IF it was parasites, why would it be concentrated to the backs. I would be watching for a bully.
I wouldn't personally cull anybody until I figured out the issue, to make sure it doesn't persist... UNLESS there seems to be true suffering (depression) on the hens part. After that.. I would definitely consider culling a bird who is a constant source of parasites as it's indicative to the state of the immune system. Weaker will be effected first and worst. It's said that 10% of chickens carry 90% of parasites (even within a single flock). Some will have a natural resistance. But since you aren't breeding, it isn't as important IMO, as long as you can get it figured out and adjust for it.
Really stinks to know our birds need help but not be sure what to do. Hopefully you have somewhere to start now.
To really look for bugs, go in a couple hours after dark, using a flash light. Lay the bird on their back, knees bent towards chest and part the feathers near the vent and look for anything scurrying. This won't work for the microscopic buggers though.
@Wyorp Rock So you mean pemethrin spray won't work for feather mites? Do you know why? And also do you know how to diagnose them before treating with Ivermectin as you suggested?
I would feed the whole egg since the white is pure protein. The yolk is nutrient dense but that's also where all the fat is. Feeding more protein, you may not see immediate results.. as things take time to level out. So it would take a bully a short while for her system to say OK I'm good before she quits picking, IF it hasn't just become habit already. And then it would take longer than that for the feathers to come back in. In Nevada, they might even be experiencing sunburn right now. I have a girl who got into my stag pen and had all her neck feathers pulled out. She is still laying and the feathers have been pins for a very long time, several months!
I do also wonder... IF it was parasites, why would it be concentrated to the backs. I would be watching for a bully.
I wouldn't personally cull anybody until I figured out the issue, to make sure it doesn't persist... UNLESS there seems to be true suffering (depression) on the hens part. After that.. I would definitely consider culling a bird who is a constant source of parasites as it's indicative to the state of the immune system. Weaker will be effected first and worst. It's said that 10% of chickens carry 90% of parasites (even within a single flock). Some will have a natural resistance. But since you aren't breeding, it isn't as important IMO, as long as you can get it figured out and adjust for it.
Really stinks to know our birds need help but not be sure what to do. Hopefully you have somewhere to start now.
To really look for bugs, go in a couple hours after dark, using a flash light. Lay the bird on their back, knees bent towards chest and part the feathers near the vent and look for anything scurrying. This won't work for the microscopic buggers though.
@Wyorp Rock So you mean pemethrin spray won't work for feather mites? Do you know why? And also do you know how to diagnose them before treating with Ivermectin as you suggested?