Desperate and upset.

Don’t worry it’s a common problem that all poultry owners face
There is many reasons
Causes:

1) Young layers often lay soft-shelled eggs when they are first getting started. This should stop once their reproductive systems mature and fully develop.

2) Stress can cause a hen to lay her egg prematurely without the shell. Being chased by children, or harassed by dogs or other predators can be the cause of great stress and fright.

3) Older hens often lay thin-shelled eggs since the same amount of shell must encompass a much larger amount of yolk/white than when she was younger (eggs generally get larger as a hen ages).

4) A Calcium deficiency can result in soft-shelled eggs, so be sure you provide the added calcium supplement in the form of egg- or oyster shell.

5) A Vitamin D deficiency can also result in eggs with soft shells, so allowing your chickens time outdoors year round is important.

6) Far less common, soft-shelled eggs can be a symptom of such diseases as Newcastle disease or infectious bronchitis. If you are regularly seeing soft-shelled eggs, a vet should be consulted if you have ruled out all other causes.


Prevention:

1) Crushed eggshell or oyster shell should always be made available to your flock on a free-choice basis, not mixed into their feed. This way each hen can eat as much or as little as she needs. Different hens absorb calcium differently, and depending on how good a layer she is, one hen may just need more than another.

2) Avoid feeding spinach, as well as beet greens, chards and citrus fruits, all of which which can interfere with calcium absorption. If soft-shelled eggs are a problem, try cutting those treats out completely. If you do feed them in the future, add some apple cider vinegar to their water (1 Tablespoon of ACV per gallon of water) which helps increase calcium absorption rates

3) Add some herbs and other greens rich in calcium to their diet. These include: alfalfa, burdock root, chamomile, chickweed, clover, dandelion greens, horsetail, lambs quarter, mustard greens, nettle, parsley, peppermint, raspberry leaf, rose hips and watercress.

4) In severe cases, some liquid calcium can be added to your flock's water as an added calcium boost.
Just do exactly what this post said! Worked my hen.
 
Good for you for taking in these birds and keeping them alive for the past 8 months. I don't really have anything to add on the poop or feed question. I am wondering, though, if you have a run attached to your coop so they can get outside during the day. That will give them a little more space and help reduce the stress. You can build a run fairly inexpensively with 2x4" welded wire and fence posts. I would also put the welded wire as a cover on the run to keep aerial and climbing predators out. This is what my run looks like:
001.JPG


Most of the time my chickens free range, but it's handy to have a run when a predator has found your flock, or you're going to be gone for a few days, or when visiting family brings their dogs that haven't been trained to leave chickens alone.

Don't beat yourself up. As others have said, we all started somewhere and we all have made mistakes (and still do - don't believe anyone who tells you otherwise!). I'm glad you decided not to get any more chickens at the moment with the size of your coop. Over crowded chickens can develop all kinds of bad habits, like feather picking and cannibalism. Integrating new birds requires extra space for it to go well. Keep up the good work!
 

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