Experimenting with a few meat birds as pets

[Parront]

Sounds great! The grass is getting nice and green here, so I’ll get them on the grass as soon as possible.
I don’t want to give corn, because I have heard that makes fat birds. I don’t want that. I can get lower protein feed pretty easy from our local feed store to, so that’s no problem. Thanks for the tips! Should I aim for a 18% protein feed then?

If they are on grass, that is good. The grass has the vitamins and it lowers the protein in the total diet. Bugs are just a bonus, they need protein from the feed. Getting out on grass in the sun just is what I think all birds need. Natural sunlight is irreplaceable!

 

[Weeg]

If they are on grass, that is good. The grass has the vitamins and it lowers the protein in the total diet. Bugs are just a bonus, they need protein from the feed. Getting out on grass in the sun just is what I think all birds need. Natural sunlight is irreplaceable!

Awesome, the tractor is mobile, so they should be on fresh grass every week all summer! I’ll sim for a 18% protein feed when their chicks, and as adults. Thanks so much!

 

[MysteryChicken]

I have a gimpy hen as well. She never stopped limping after a sprain, so I assumed it was permanent. Maybe they will benefit her as well.

It wouldn't hurt to give it a try.

 

[NatJ]

I just found this thread and read it all. Interesting idea!
A few thoughts:
a) I like your idea of a feeder the bantams can access, but the Cornish Cross can not

b) You could try an elevated feeder (bantams fly MUCH better than Cornish Cross), although there's a chance the Cornish Cross could fly up and then hurt themselves coming down. So your idea of small openings might be better.

c) I would give the Cornish Cross most or all of their feed in the evening, if they are able to free range during the day. My reason: if they are hungry in the daytime, they will move around foraging, and get plenty of exercise as well as grass and other things. Then they can have their measured amount of food in the evening, and go to sleep with full crops.

d) You can look online for Broiler Breeder Management Guides. They are put out by various companies, telling how to raise the parents that produce the Cornish Cross. Although that's not exactly what you will have, you might find some of the information useful. For example:
https://en.aviagen.com/assets/Tech_Center/Ross_PS/RossPSHandBook2018.pdf
On page 93 of this one, there are photos and diagrams of what the breast shape of the males should be (they show too thin, just right, and too fat.) Because they want those birds to live and reproduce, they are deliberately stunting their growth with feed restriction. What they say for those breeders may be helpful in deciding what body condition is right for your pets.

 

[Weeg]

So, now I have one more I ssue. I will want only hens, but my two of choice won’t be able to be sexed until about two months old. We want to feed the other chicks meat bird feed, so if I want to feed starter grower to my two, I won’t be able to tell what gender they are until later.

Do I feed them all starter grower for the first 3 weeks, then take the two with the smallest combs and start limiting feed? Or do I try to vent sex? I don’t want to hurt them by having no experience in that area, plus it will be easy for me to mess up having never done it before.

 

[Weeg]

I just found this thread and read it all. Interesting idea!
A few thoughts:
a) I like your idea of a feeder the bantams can access, but the Cornish Cross can not

b) You could try an elevated feeder (bantams fly MUCH better than Cornish Cross), although there's a chance the Cornish Cross could fly up and then hurt themselves coming down. So your idea of small openings might be better.

c) I would give the Cornish Cross most or all of their feed in the evening, if they are able to free range during the day. My reason: if they are hungry in the daytime, they will move around foraging, and get plenty of exercise as well as grass and other things. Then they can have their measured amount of food in the evening, and go to sleep with full crops.

d) You can look online for Broiler Breeder Management Guides. They are put out by various companies, telling how to raise the parents that produce the Cornish Cross. Although that's not exactly what you will have, you might find some of the information useful. For example:
https://en.aviagen.com/assets/Tech_Center/Ross_PS/RossPSHandBook2018.pdf
On page 93 of this one, there are photos and diagrams of what the breast shape of the males should be (they show too thin, just right, and too fat.) Because they want those birds to live and reproduce, they are deliberately stunting their growth with feed restriction. What they say for those breeders may be helpful in deciding what body condition is right for your pets.

This is really great info, thanks so much!
I didn’t even think about the elevated feeder risk, that’s a good point. I will work on the hut first or try to use a separater.
I absolutely love you idea of feeding all of it in the evening when they ca free range, that is a great idea! In the winter when they can’t free range, or don’t have a lot of forage, I will feed breakfast in the morning. That is really great info, thank you!
I will look through that link, and do more research on breeders strategies. This is info I didn’t think of. Thank you, me and the future meat girls appreciate it!

 

[FuzzyCritters]

So, now I have one more I ssue. I will want only hens, but my two of choice won’t be able to be sexed until about two months old. We want to feed the other chicks meat bird feed, so if I want to feed starter grower to my two, I won’t be able to tell what gender they are until later.

Do I feed them all starter grower for the first 3 weeks, then take the two with the smallest combs and start limiting feed? Or do I try to vent sex? I don’t want to hurt them by having no experience in that area, plus it will be easy for me to mess up having never done it before.

Pullets will also be lighter than males, even at 3 weeks. At three weeks old, the lightest ones with small combs are almost certainly pullets.

 

[Weeg]

Pullets will also be lighter than males, even at 3 weeks. At three weeks old, the lightest ones with small combs are almost certainly pullets.

Okay, so maybe i'll just feed all of them starter grower, and then start meat bird food on the others after 3 weeks old. Then, separate my two, and start weening them off of free choice feed as they get their feathers in. Thanks for all the help!

 

[NatJ]

If you want to let them eat for a certain number of minutes (which I saw suggested), you may want to serve the food wet.

When chickens are really hungry, I've seen them sort-of choke if they are gobbling dry feed, but they don't as much if I serve the feed wet. And of course Cornish Cross are going to act really hungry at every feeding, if you are restricting their feed.

 

[Weeg]

If you want to let them eat for a certain number of minutes (which I saw suggested), you may want to serve the food wet.

When chickens are really hungry, I've seen them sort-of choke if they are gobbling dry feed, but they don't as much if I serve the feed wet. And of course Cornish Cross are going to act really hungry at every feeding, if you are restricting their feed.

Got it, thats a good idea. I can totally do that.
I'm very excited, were getting the frame done with weekend, and we can get the Cornish X next time we go into town, yay!
I will start all of them on Purina Starter/grower, and then at 3 weeks, when I can guess genders of my two, I will put the rest on Purina meat bird.
Assuming that by the time they are ready to get out of the brooder, we'll be done with the coop.
I'm excited!
Then, once we butcher the rest, we'll get bantam chicks, (I'm still trying to decide were to get them, but am also thinking about incubating since everyone sells them as straight run anyway.) Then, when the bantams are old enough, we'll do a slow introduction with them and Doodle and Smudge! Hopefully everything goes well, I will keep all of you guys updated!