Experimenting with a few meat birds as pets

[Weeg]

Hey guys!
We are getting a batch of 12 meat birds in the spring, I don't like to cull any thing, haha, so have made the family agree that I can keep 2-3 of the broilers, limit feed and do an experiment as keeping them for pets.
I need all of the tips I can get, how much should I feed them? Should I feed a certain amount in two sections, like breakfast and dinner, twice a day? Or is it okay to feed a larger, but still limited amount once a day? Will they do okay living with an all bantam flock? I'm assuming that will just have to be something I find out on my own though. My concern with that would be limiting feed, I would have to separate the broilers for their limited feed, and then feed the bantams.
They will be in an appropriately sized coop and pen with the bantams, so will have enough room to run around. All the info I can get, anything important I need to know, since all I can think of is limiting feed. We are designing the coop now so anything I need to add, or make special for the broilers, I can add to the design now. Thanks for any info! I'm very excited for this experiment!

 

[FuzzyCritters]

Why do you want pet broilers? These birds really, really aren't meant for pets. There are far better breeds out there than broilers who don't live very long and end up suffering if kept past process date. They don't act like normal chickens and shouldn't be kept with a normal flock.

 

[Parront]

A lot depends on the breed of "meat bird" some of the Cornish cross are bred to be very fast growing, processed at 6-8 weeks. Some are advertised as "slow" white broilers. Some of the "Red Ranger" or "Freedom Rangers" will live long and would make a good pet.

 

[Winter Creek Coop]

I have kept cornish cross for a couple years before. They were pastured and had no noticable problems like joint or ankle problems. The two I kept for a breeding project layed surprisingly well throught the warm months. They were really sweet and seemed happy. I loved to watch them lay down and eat. So funny.

All that said, I think a slower grower like a red ranger or black broiler would be a better pet choice. They get pretty fat but still retain more mobility. We had some horrendous hawk attacks on our cornish cross when they were free ranging. They were too fat for the hawks to pick up but they still tried and caused sugnificant gashes in their backs. If you do it keep us posted. Good luck.

 

[Weeg]

Why do you want pet broilers? These birds really, really aren't meant for pets. There are far better breeds out there than broilers who don't live very long and end up suffering if kept past process date. They don't act like normal chickens and shouldn't be kept with a normal flock.

I've seen others do it before, they accidentally get meat birds and keep them. I've also seen people on those threads say they had meat birds for as long as they lived, and they had happy lives. If it truly is torture for the birds, I wont keep them, but I do want to hear more opinions first. I believe they could have happy lives.
I do appreciate the opinions though!

 

[Parront]

We aren't set on any certain meat breed yet, I can get a breed that you guys think will have a happier life, or do well on a restricted diet.
So far, we were thinking Cornish X. I have seen them do okay in other threads, and have also heard they are very friendly. They are most typical used for meat, so I would love to save a few of them if they will do alright and not suffer on a restricted diet. If they wont do good or will suffer, sit there, not have a happy life, I can choose another meat breed.

Look at the thread titled "crossing my Red Rangers" to see some more info. I have a couple of the birds of the cross on that thread. The Red Rangers lived long enough to lay eggs for the next generation. Not as long lived as other birds. The NN pullet I have in this photo is from one of the Red Ranger x Dorking eggs, then that hen was bred to a NN rooster, resulting in my bird here. She is the hen behind the rooster in this photo. She is larger than the other chickens and lays pretty good, large light tan eggs.

 

[Weeg]

A lot depends on the breed of "meat bird" some of the Cornish cross are bred to be very fast growing, processed at 6-8 weeks. Some are advertised as "slow" whit broilers. Some of the "Red Ranger" or "Freedom Rangers" will live long and would make a good pet.

We aren't set on any certain meat breed yet, I can get a breed that you guys think will have a happier life, or do well on a restricted diet.
So far, we were thinking Cornish X. I have seen them do okay in other threads, and have also heard they are very friendly. They are most typical used for meat, so I would love to save a few of them if they will do alright and not suffer on a restricted diet. If they wont do good or will suffer, sit there, not have a happy life, I can choose another meat breed.

 

[FuzzyCritters]

Then I'm assuming weight is the best way to tell if they are eating enough/to much. Who much should they weight? About as much as a regular Cornish chicken?
How about coop design? So they don't roost, then is just a coop with flat floor fine? Do they need anything special?

I think feeling the keel bone would be the best way to tell if they are eating right. If it is very prominent and you can pinch it without feeling anything around it, they are too thin. If there is a lot of fat surrounding the keel, they are overweight. There should be a thin layer of fat around the keel, but you should be able to easily feel the keel bone.

For coop design, nothing special. You might want to include a low roost in case they want to roost, but have thick bedding so they can sleep on the ground if they choose.

 

[Parront]

I think feeling the keel bone would be the best way to tell if they are eating right. If it is very prominent and you can pinch it without feeling anything around it, they are too thin. If there is a lot of fat surrounding the keel, they are overweight. There should be a thin layer of fat around the keel, but you should be able to easily feel the keel bone.

For coop design, nothing special. You might want to include a low roost in case they want to roost, but have thick bedding so they can sleep on the ground if they choose.

This is the best way to tell the weight/over weight status of all birds. A "sharp" feeling bone = too thin. Dull blunt =OK, but can't feel a bone, or a dimple, = a fat bird, which is what the Cornish-X are bred to be!

 

[Matejka]

I got 3 cornish x in mid Sept from granddaughters fair project. These were replacement to sooth my broken heart, my entire flock was killed on Sept 3rd. She had 25 total, I kept 3, the rest butchered and weighed out average of 6 lbs @ 8 weeks, so born mid July. It was a drastically learning experience with my 3. They don't roost or even try to get off the ground, so made them a roosting spot ( 2ftx4ft plywood on bricks) they use. Restrict food to a cup morning and night, scatter it out instead of a feeder (make them walk, scratch for food). Let them free range. They drink alot of water. Got first egg in January. Then 2 eggs on same day. I get 2-4 eggs a week. They survived our texas freeze. Biggest one (22 lb) got slower and less active, finally to the point I would have to pick her up to go in run (step was brick high), still eating laying. Got a massive double yolk egg from her and she passed away next day very peaceful head tucked. Got 6 chicks from tsc 3 weeks ago, to start my flock back. Still getting 1-2 eggs a week from my 2 cornish. Got another large egg, noticed 2nd biggest not active, she had tried to lay a massive egg, and prolapse, literally egg tangled up and prolapse hanging about an inch from vent to tangled egg. I euthanized her immediately. She weighed 21 lbs.
Currently, 6 3 week old chicks and 1 cornish x. Got an egg yesterday, took babies outside, cornish x immediately ran to fence and started clucking cooing. I know she's lonesome, still healthy and prowling the weeds. It has been a very different experience from reg chicken keeping. I will not get cornish x again.