Fencing Issue

I want to use the electric fence as a quick and temporary solution to make sure that the dog won't come back. In the long run the plan is to replace the electric fence with a much sturdier wattle fence enforced with electric wiring.
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Just figured out that TSC has these plastic posts on sale:
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I will buy 100 tomorrow and set up a temporary electric fence. What is better to keep dogs out and ducks in: Polywire or Polytape?
I thought running a polytape at the bottom to keep the ducks in and a couple of polywires to keep dogs out, but i have absolutely zero experience with electric fences.
 
Just figured out that TSC has these plastic posts on sale:
View attachment 2490222
I will buy 100 tomorrow and set up a temporary electric fence. What is better to keep dogs out and ducks in: Polywire or Polytape?
I thought running a polytape at the bottom to keep the ducks in and a couple of polywires to keep dogs out, but i have absolutely zero experience with electric fences.
Polytape is the most visible, so a great choice for horses.. .

Might be perfect for ducks for the same reason. You can get it in a few different colors too.

These 2 pages (yes for a specific brand... but ignore the brand/marketing) have a good explanation as to the different wire and polywire choices, how they are different, how they carry a charge (less conductive material means you need a stronger fence charger for the same level of zap), and what kind of fence charger you need.

https://www.zarebasystems.com/learning-center/compare-electric-fence-supplies/fence-wire

And here is their page for specific wire spacing for dogs:

https://www.zarebasystems.com/learning-center/animal-selector/pets-dogs-cats
 
If you’re running electric and you have rocky and or dry conditions, I would say you’d be much better off using a positive/negative system. You can (and should) still sink at least one ground rod, but with a pos/neg system, the animal touches both a “hot” (pos) and “cold” (neg) wire and completes the circuit without it having to travel from the hot wire, through the animal, into the ground, over to the ground connection, to give a shock. Dogs can squeeze through pretty tight wires and have a fur coat that protects them from weak shocks, so the harder it zaps the better. My husky x can waltz right through the hot wire I have set up for the cows because she barely brushes it with her fur.
I also like to bait my hot wire with a bit of bacon grease etc for the foxes and coyotes to take a bite out of, too.
I’ve used a chicken wire/fence wire apron as my negative wire too, so when the animal is standing on it, and touches the hot wire, they get an excellent zap.

positive/negative fences are often used for bee hives to keep bears away. Lots of info out there on setting them up. :)
 
The potential issue i see is going to be grounding your hot wire. Grounding rods should be 8' in the ground, and you should have 2 of 'em.
Grounding is the least of my concerns: I have wet acidic loamy soil which is ideal to carry electrical charges. I did soil resistivity measurements at several spots and nowhere was it more than 60 Ω/m. I begin to understand why the fruit trees on my land are doing so poor…
See also: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soil_resistivity
 
Grounding is the least of my concerns: I have wet acidic loamy soil which is ideal to carry electrical charges. I did soil resistivity measurements at several spots and nowhere was it more than 60 Ω/m. I begin to understand why the fruit trees on my land are doing so poor…
See also: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soil_resistivity
If you’ve got rock close by underneath you can use a grounding plate, like some houses have. Spacing of your wires is then going to be the most important detail and ensuring you’ve got enough oomph in your energizer. :)
 
If you’re running electric and you have rocky and or dry conditions, I would say you’d be much better off using a positive/negative system. You can (and should) still sink at least one ground rod, but with a pos/neg system, the animal touches both a “hot” (pos) and “cold” (neg) wire and completes the circuit without it having to travel from the hot wire, through the animal, into the ground, over to the ground connection, to give a shock. Dogs can squeeze through pretty tight wires and have a fur coat that protects them from weak shocks, so the harder it zaps the better. My husky x can waltz right through the hot wire I have set up for the cows because she barely brushes it with her fur.
I also like to bait my hot wire with a bit of bacon grease etc for the foxes and coyotes to take a bite out of, too.
I’ve used a chicken wire/fence wire apron as my negative wire too, so when the animal is standing on it, and touches the hot wire, they get an excellent zap.

positive/negative fences are often used for bee hives to keep bears away. Lots of info out there on setting them up. :)
I was thinking to do both, grounding the fence for taller animals which would use their noses to sniff out the wires, a charged low wire for smaller critters like skunks and possums together with a grounded wire, something like this:

_
| |
| |
| |-o <- dog-wire (80cm)
| |
| |
| |-o <- raccoon-wire (50cm)
| |
| |-o <- ground-wire (30cm)
| |-o <- skunk-wire (20cm)
| |
------------------------------- Ground
 
If you’ve got rock close by underneath you can use a grounding plate, like some houses have. Spacing of your wires is then going to be the most important detail and ensuring you’ve got enough oomph in your energizer. :)
Yup! The energizer, i have already learned that i need a low impedance energizer for dogs and 'coons due to their thick fur and i looked at TSC and RK and their web-sites only say »covers up to a gazillion miles of fence« nothing about impedance. :(
I guess i just have to drive there, grab somebody by the ears, drag her/him to the fencing department and ask a lot of questions…
 

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