The best part about pelletized horse bedding? it breaks down really fast in the compost!
I used to pull a worm bin also.. but too much worm/bug richness on pasture (at my current location) my bird turn their noses up at the worms! When I lived int he irrigated desert, the bird loved the red wigglers. Worm bin was fun.. I've also done live meal worms.. also pure disgusting fun!
By pelleted horse bedding.. you mean the same thing as wood stove pellets? That's what I prefer to use when I kept my mini pigs indoors as litter in their litter box, but never had it actually clump in the same manner as kitty litter.. though it was scoopable.. not with a slotted litter scoop to leave extra bedding behind. Some of my local feed stores use them in chick bins, but I didn't like it in brooders.
I do love rice hulls that are available for only $12 locally, despite being $60 on
Amazon.. and compost quite well! They don't smell nearly as good as pine bedding.. but.. that depends on the purpose and so many other factors.
It was washed river sand.. I had a dump truck load delivered.. quite simply.. my stock density is too high.. in addition to average humidity above 70% and often 99-100%, with average temperature around 55.. Things just don't dry out fast enough during the long wet season for it to work as described (in MY environment , and set up, consistently) despite all the wonderful things I read about it. I still use it as grit and as base layer under.. SEMI- deep litter.. I remove droppings I can see.. and it never gets enough moisture to start that whole active decomposing described by some.. more vented.. less pressed down.. more like the forest floor mulch with different particle sizes.. Not bare dirt or even sand.. to me is a breeding ground of bad bacteria... adding other things in (like leaves, grass clipping, pine needles, etc) helps to invite the insects and good bacteria to balance things out... never looking back and no funk to boot.
Crazy how impossible hardware is to either find or how expensive it is now.
When I started building the new coop 6-7 weeks ago, they were only $2.50 ish. Now, I paid over $7 for 2x4's just recently!
Yes, I do sell birds locally when I have them available, most often there is a waiting list for chicks or started birds. I quit with Silkies because they weren't for me even though they sold as fast as I could hatch them week in and week out for over a year. Turns out its a labor of love and you gotta really love the breed you're working with to make the amount of effort put in worth it. I have enjoyed working with a number of other breeds including.. French black copper Marans, Lav Orpington, Swedish Flower. & more... partly the reason why I can adamantly state that genetics is key..
Without journaling, I could not recall anything accurately. The numbers and facts.. they all get jumbled with my ideas.. So I need to use some sort of recording... Ya, then there's the deciphering! Your my kinda nerd, glad you saw the difference of different lacto ferments etc and enjoyed the link.. pm me your # and we'll text chicken talk/projects on occasion.
I bought some alfafa pellets today, and I’m going to experiment with fermenting those along with the feed.
I would just remind you that formulated rations have the vitamins and minerals more importantly amino acids added in.. and anything like that would be recommended as treat.. not more than 10% of the total daily intake. Also.. the birds may enjoy alfalfa cubes.. or rather not pelleted but still grass like.. if you know what I'm describing.. noting this is 100% about enrichment and NOT nutrients.. which alfalfa (maybe higher calcium/protein or carb content, but not sure which one, Just KNOW it's too rich) and other grass hays (closer to 8% protein I think, now I wonder about carb and other content.. because I buy and use these for my guinea pigs.. sorry this is HOW I learn) will likely be ultimately diminishing.. it *may* impact yolk color if it does actually add more xanthophylls.. and while I don't find it nutritionally important.. I DO think it's (alfalfa)ONE good alternative enrichment like sprouting or fodder for those that may not have winter ranging available!
Make sure our "benefits" are real not imagined.. my main point of posting the "scientific" information..
I often state NO supplement should be given more than 10 days in a row.. and NOW realize FF should be considered a nutritious treat or supplement that should be offered on occasion or as needed.. but full time FF.. what for?! And the worse part is we aren't even trying to sell anything and only trying to give our birds the best.. not realizing we (most of us) already do.. most of the time.
I go round and round.. so many things in my brain..
@yakitori. see if you can find a calorie content on your feed.. Otherwise make note if/when you switch to different feed rations.. example.. starter or flock raiser have about 3% less calcium (in theory an empty filler) than layer does. When they switch to lower protein for layer they gotta get less carbs.. right equal energy value.. different building blocks.. ALL animals eat to maintain their energy need.. it will level off when they stop growing.. there will be plateaus between pullet and hen stage.
Keep looking! I’m sure you’ll find some great steals.
the nutritional info on purina's flock raiser feed is 
