Fixing Up old coop

UpNorthChickens

In the Brooder
Mar 28, 2022
5
9
11
Just moved into a new home, and with the home we inherited a 8 x 9 1/2 ft chicken coop. Based on the size 12-15 chicken is the amount recommended. It has 12 nesting boxes in it. That seems like way to many, and it’s just more to clean, but also not sure I want to just rip them out to put less. Any ideas on what I should do?

Also, the coop has many repairs we need to make; putting in some new board and fixing a hole in the roof. Any suggestions on the door, do we need to just completely replace it?

Any recommendations on a good paint and sealer for the wood? And should we do it both inside and outside?

On the windows should we figure out a way to secure them closed or would they be okay. We’re in cold northern mn so just wondering about letting cold drafts in it has wire on the window already.
 

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The door is likely salvageable if you build a 2x4 frame on the back side for the hinge screws to bite into.

The windows, it kinda depends - are they above where your chickens will be roosting for the night?

For the nest boxes, I'm of the opinion that more is better. If they aren't being laid in or slept in, they will likely stay clean. And this just gives the ladies more options if their favorite one is currently occupied. I'd really only take them down if you wanted the space for something else or if you need the material for another project.
 
Just moved into a new home, and with the home we inherited a 8 x 9 1/2 ft chicken coop. Based on the size 12-15 chicken is the amount recommended. It has 12 nesting boxes in it. That seems like way to many, and it’s just more to clean, but also not sure I want to just rip them out to put less. Any ideas on what I should do?

Also, the coop has many repairs we need to make; putting in some new board and fixing a hole in the roof. Any suggestions on the door, do we need to just completely replace it?

Any recommendations on a good paint and sealer for the wood? And should we do it both inside and outside?

On the windows should we figure out a way to secure them closed or would they be okay. We’re in cold northern mn so just wondering about letting cold drafts in it has wire on the window already.
I would remove the top course of nest boxes and put the pitched roof over the bottom course.
The door is trashed. I would build a new one. Make it to fit inside the opening and leave 1/2" gap all the way around. Install "door stops" on the inside framing to close off any gaps. I secure doors like that top and bottom with a hasp and carabiner.
man door.jpg


It appears that the windows tip in. I personally would just look for someone selling old vinyl windows and would reframe that wall to receive just the sash and hang them so they open out, hinged top. You can see the window next to the door held open with a hook and chain.
IMG_20210606_062607612.jpg

Back all vents and window openings with 1/2" hardware cloth. Chicken wire is not predator proof.
 
The door is likely salvageable if you build a 2x4 frame on the back side for the hinge screws to bite into.

The windows, it kinda depends - are they above where your chickens will be roosting for the night?

For the nest boxes, I'm of the opinion that more is better. If they aren't being laid in or slept in, they will likely stay clean. And this just gives the ladies more options if their favorite one is currently occupied. I'd really only take them down if you wanted the space for something else or if you need the material for another project.
Good idea about the door, we’ll have to try that before completely replacing it. Anywhere I can save costs is super helpful.

The windows are not right above the nesting boxes.

I don’t think we. Need the space so I may just try leaving them all for now and see how it goes. Good to know about them probably not getting to dirty, because that was the main thing I didn’t want to deal with extra mess for no reason.
 
Barn paint is a good choice for this. It is designed to go on rough sawn or older wood, doesn't need primer, and is inexpensive. The downside is that it comes in limited colors. My local store was willing to add tint but there is no way to exactly match the color even to itself. There is no base code for the tinting machine to start with. I asked them to use a random "white" paint of a different type to get a recipe. I was happy but I just wanted something in the ballpark of the color I showed them.

I painted the inside of mine for three reasons. First, it was extremely rough sawn.... very extremely. Painting it smoothed it a little, which I wanted. Second, I want to whitewash it and want the whitewash to coat it more than soak into it. Third, I like looking at the color I picked better than the enormous amount of knots in the boards the builder used.

I don't think coops need to be painted inside for any functional reason.
 
Barn paint is a good choice for this. It is designed to go on rough sawn or older wood, doesn't need primer, and is inexpensive. The downside is that it comes in limited colors. My local store was willing to add tint but there is no way to exactly match the color even to itself. There is no base code for the tinting machine to start with. I asked them to use a random "white" paint of a different type to get a recipe. I was happy but I just wanted something in the ballpark of the color I showed them.

I painted the inside of mine for three reasons. First, it was extremely rough sawn.... very extremely. Painting it smoothed it a little, which I wanted. Second, I want to whitewash it and want the whitewash to coat it more than soak into it. Third, I like looking at the color I picked better than the enormous amount of knots in the boards the builder used.

I don't think coops need to be painted inside for any functional reason.
Just went and looked up barn paint, that does look like what we’ll want to use. Good to know about the color, our house is barn red, so using the barn red for the coop actually would work well.
 
I would remove the top course of nest boxes and put the pitched roof over the bottom course.
The door is trashed. I would build a new one. Make it to fit inside the opening and leave 1/2" gap all the way around. Install "door stops" on the inside framing to close off any gaps. I secure doors like that top and bottom with a hasp and carabiner.
View attachment 3040882

It appears that the windows tip in. I personally would just look for someone selling old vinyl windows and would reframe that wall to receive just the sash and hang them so they open out, hinged top. You can see the window next to the door held open with a hook and chain.View attachment 3040888
Back all vents and window openings with 1/2" hardware cloth. Chicken wire is not predator proof.
I will probably try to fix and secure what’s there as a first attempt to save money, but those are great ideas if they do need to be replaced.
 
As a man on disability with little money to work with I cut cost everywhere I can so I understand your thoughts. I am currently building/reperpecing an old coop to handle 13 new chick's. I am using what I have on hand and will only need to buy wire to help make them safer at night.
As for painting my coop, I don't use paint, i treat all my wood with old motor oil and besil and give it at least 2 weeks before chick's go in, it will last for a really long time.
 

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