Goose eggs for crafts.. Question on blowing them out..

At 15 days - they could go either way. You may get lucky and not have bacteria or rotten eggs- but then again - drilling the hole could allow a sudden escape of gas that has built up. I have only ever done fresh eggs. A syringe can work- without the needle tip of course- as the contents is so thick. It also help if you stick a wire into it- to break up the yolk a bit.

 

I have blown many eggs and have never touched one with my Lips!
I will tell you my method and maybe you can select the parts that work for you and the tools you have on hand.
First select the egg, I pick them up with a plastic bag over my hand and don't work inside until I am sure they are safe. Goose eggs are pretty strong and can hold a lot of gas pressure if they are rotten. Check the outside for any sign of seepage if anything is comeing out dispose of at once. Check the smell any stink dispose of it. Candle the egg there is no war to remove a gosling once it has started to develope, finally try the sink/float test, sinkers are good and have never caused a problem, lots of older eggs will float and still be good, I keep them and drill them but keep in mind that they might be bad.
Next clean up the outside of the egg, they are stronger before drilling and why drill a egg that is too dirty for use?
Next how do you intend to use the egg? Do you need or want two holes? some claim it is easier to blow a 2 hole egg but I find one is enough and works better with my method. Either way you are going to need some putty like material to support and cushion the egg while you drill it.
How to drill? I use a Dremel tool with a sharp tip STONE cone bit. the stone is fine and hard, made to work on ceremics it is slow but the best I have found. If You don't have a rig like it, the nest best thing is a HAND drill with a true WOOD BIT. a WOOD bit has a brad sharp tip with two sharp spurs that cut the outside of the hole before the screw part removes the wood. Most of the bits that come with drill sets are metal bits which are great for metal and ok for wood but on thin materials they tend to wedge and break the egg. Power drills should be avoided encept with a stone type bit for the same reason. diameter of hole? 1/8" is the commercial standard but a slightly larger hole will make them easier to blow. smaller than 1/8 makes a really tough blow because the white and yoke is so thick. Take your time and be careful, a mistake can ruin a egg
To Blow (without lips) I use a 30 mL Syringe (Turkey baster will work)attached to about 6-8"of plastic flex tube I attach that to a large gage needle about a #14 I think(in needles the smaller the # the bigger the hole) since I am pushing air or water thin solutions the bore isn't critical. Carefully put a rod or a wire through the hole to break the membrain and the yoke membrain also. Invert over a bucket or something to catch the contents and with the hole DOWN start SLOWLY injecting air which will rise to the top of the egg and start expelling the contents through the hole in the buttom. If it is working continue. If the hole seems to clog stop and inject a small amount of water and shake the rgg to mix(I have access to a protein digesting material which helps break up protien I think ACCENT brand meat terderizer in solution will do the same job) Continue untill all the thick egg material is out. Rinse several times to wash out the inside of the egg. I usually soak mine overnight with the protein dislosver inside to remove the membrain. I do a final sanitizer rinse bleach because the people I supply like to smell the chlorine to be sure it is sanitized before they sell them. For myown use I use hydrogen peroxide because I don't care for the smell of bleach With the hole down allow to drain and dry inside. A bit of putty can seal the hole.
I usually am around every day so if there are questions just post here on the Goose board. ~gd