Guinea talk.

[MartinsPoultry]

This week has been an emotional roller coaster. first Howlee died, then James found two of my missing chicken peeps dead in the a-frame, two nights ago we lost one of my young bunny bucks and then today we found Paragrine dead after food shopping. She had been so depressed since Howlee died i think it could have been a broken heart that killed her.

 

[GlennLee]

@CntryBoy777 - welcome to the Guinea Talk thread! Glad you posted and you'll find that you'll receive ideas from all kinds of farm situations. We encourage everyone to take and use what works best for them. We enjoy sharing stories about our guineas along with photos. Pop in any time and make sure you post some pics when you get your keets.

I'm happy to share some things I've learned based on my experiences and glad to see others have already done the same.

From what I've read, 1 guinea will keep 1 acre clear of ticks/insects, so you could easily accommodate more than 15 on your 20 acres. I would recommend getting as many as you can- more than you want in your flock. Especially if you free range, you'll lose some. I've also found that it's easier to take a head count with a mix of colors.... just something to think about. Unfortunately, over time, the predators have the advantage with free ranged guineas ... sad to say, but it's true. Case in point: Out of the 18 birds I started with in May 2016, I have one left. I do put mine in at night, so all of my issues with hawks, coyotes and foxes happen during the day. If you get below 10, they will start to fall apart as a flock and adding to the flock is more difficult for the social structure of the guineas than it is to start with one large flock. It can be done, and there are some here who have good luck, but I haven't had the same experience.

FYI - most of the info below pertains to starting a NEW flock with no other guineas since that's what you are inquiring about.

You asked about Brooder size. I use large dogs crates on tables as a brooder and line the sides with cardboard. Easy clean up and it collapses when you're done. I now use bath towels (changed daily) on the floor of the crate for about the first 2 weeks. It seems to wick away a lot of the moisture. I hose it off, hang it on the line to sun sanitize and then wash in hot water and back out in the sun. It's a bit time consuming, but I don't think any more so than monitoring paper towel and newspaper wetness. I didn't have a problem last year using it, but lost some this year before I changed over to bath towels.

I start with one crate and add on more as needed. At one point I had 4 joined together on tables. This year, I got by with just two. Most sites recommend 3-4 square feet per adult bird and for the keets, I eyeball the crate. When the birds take up about a third of the crate, I add another. Usually it's about the time they start to want to roost, so I put in small tree branches across the end of one crate and keep their food and water in the other end.

Another thing I like about using crates is I can rest a heat source on the top without worry of it starting a fire. I use infrared ceramic bulbs, no light, so they are pretty safe anyway. I leave the birds in the crates until they no longer require a heat source - about 6 weeks here in NY, then I move them in their structure and keep them enclosed for another month to make sure they know where home is. So, I would start to free range anywhere from 10-12 weeks - 6 weeks in the brooder, at least 4 more weeks in the structure / coop where they will be living.

Gosh... I feel I could go on and on, but don't want to flood you with information. There's so much we could share.... so, just a few more things you asked about and then you can post questions as you go along.

Food - needs to be high protein - game bird starter works well and then just follow directions on when to move to a grower. You may have to order it as many feed stores don't carry it on their shelves. I don't use medicated feed, and depending on the medication, some can be lethal for guineas, whereas it's okay for chickens.

Coop - guineas will love to go high, but I keep my double roosts at 3 and 5 feet so I can reach them at night. That's the only time I can get to them in case I need to administer first aid, medication, band them or isolate them. If they are high up, I can't get to them. Just my preference...

Good luck with your quest. We've come to realize we don't own guineas, they own us! Feel free to pop in with any more questions and we all have different farm set ups, so take what you think will work best for you and go with it. If it doesn't work, try something else.

Good luck with the process!

 

[GlennLee]

This week has been an emotional roller coaster. first Howlee died, then James found two of my missing chicken peeps dead in the a-frame, two nights ago we lost one of my young bunny bucks and then today we found Paragrine dead after food shopping. She had been so depressed since Howlee died i think it could have been a broken heart that killed her.

Oh no, that's awful news... I'm so sorry to hear about all of your losses. Are they related or is it just a coincidence that they have clustered like this? I hope things improve for you and we all know how much you care about and for your animals. Thinking of you and wishing for better times for you in the future.

 

[guineapeeps]

This week has been an emotional roller coaster. first Howlee died, then James found two of my missing chicken peeps dead in the a-frame, two nights ago we lost one of my young bunny bucks and then today we found Paragrine dead after food shopping. She had been so depressed since Howlee died i think it could have been a broken heart that killed her.

I'm so sorry to hear about all your loss this last week! It's always hard, no matter how many birds/animals you have. I'm thinking of you and hoping that things settle down at your place and you have no more losses.

 

[CntryBoy777]

Thanks @GlennLee , that'll help out a lot. We don't have a really high predator pressure here, tho we have our share of coons, possums, and fox...along with hawks and owls. I am a proactive animal owner and being disabled I'm usually here everyday watching over the birds and goats unless an trip to town is required. I will be getting a german shepherd come Dec to help in the detection and guarding departments, but when hawks are flying I stand outside to watch and deter them from hanging out too long. I get help from mocking birds, blue jays, and crows to chase them. I would love to keep them penned, but that really wouldn't be fair to them, cause they really don't like it and I'd rather have them doing what they were created to do. If the maintaining gets to be too much of a hit on them, then I will reconsider having them, but I think they should do fairly well. The biggest concern is that we have a healthy population of gray rat snakes and they are a major egg eater here, so any laid outside of their coop will be difficult to retrieve before it is eaten....they get 6-8' long here and have been known to down 15-18 eggs out of a nest at one time.....yeh, they're pretty bad news. After your post, I may consider uping the numbers some....maybe more eyes will help them to avoid more than fewer. Oh, I will certainly post pics of the gangsters and report on their escapades....

 

[CntryBoy777]

This week has been an emotional roller coaster. first Howlee died, then James found two of my missing chicken peeps dead in the a-frame, two nights ago we lost one of my young bunny bucks and then today we found Paragrine dead after food shopping. She had been so depressed since Howlee died i think it could have been a broken heart that killed her.

Sure sorry to hear of your losses....
Hopefully ya will be able to get past this bad spell and be able to pickup the pcs and mend your "World" back together and enjoy the others that ya have and that have a place in your heart, too.

 

[guineapeeps]

@CntryBoy777 - welcome to the Guinea Talk thread! Glad you posted and you'll find that you'll receive ideas from all kinds of farm situations. We encourage everyone to take and use what works best for them. We enjoy sharing stories about our guineas along with photos. Pop in any time and make sure you post some pics when you get your keets.

I'm happy to share some things I've learned based on my experiences and glad to see others have already done the same.

From what I've read, 1 guinea will keep 1 acre clear of ticks/insects, so you could easily accommodate more than 15 on your 20 acres. I would recommend getting as many as you can- more than you want in
your flock. Especially if you free range, you'll lose some. I've also found that it's easier to take a head count with a mix of colors.... just something to think about. Unfortunately, over time, the predators have the advantage with free ranged guineas ...
sad to say, but it's true. Case in point: Out of the 18 birds I started with in May 2016, I have one left. I do put mine in at night, so all of my issues with hawks, coyotes and foxes happen during the day. If you get below 10, they will start to fall apart as a
flock and adding to the flock is more difficult for the social structure of the guineas than it is to start with one large flock. It can be done, and there are some here who have good luck, but I haven't had the same experience.
FYI - most of the info below pertains to starting a NEW flock with no other guineas since that's what you are inquiring about.

You asked about Brooder size. I use large dogs crates on tables as a brooder and line
the sides with cardboard. Easy clean up and it collapses when you're done. I now use bath towels (changed daily) on the floor of the crate for about the first 2 weeks. It seems to wick away a lot of the moisture. I hose it off, hang it on the line to sun sanitize
and then wash in hot water and back out in the sun. It's a bit time consuming, but I don't think any more so than monitoring paper towel and newspaper wetness. I didn't have a problem last year using it, but lost some this year before I changed over to
bath towels.
I start with one crate and add on more as needed. At one point I had 4 joined together on tables. This year, I got by with just two. Most sites recommend 3-4 square feet per adult bird and for the keets, I eyeball the
crate. When the birds take up about a third of the crate, I add another. Usually it's about the time they start to want to roost, so I put in small tree branches across the end of one crate and keep their food and water in the other end.
Another thing I like about using crates is I can rest a heat source on the top without worry of it starting a fire. I use infrared ceramic bulbs, no light, so they are pretty safe anyway. I leave the birds in the crates until they no longer require a heat source -
about 6 weeks here in NY, then I move them in their structure and keep them enclosed for another month to make sure they know where home is. So, I would start to free range anywhere from 10-12 weeks - 6 weeks in the brooder, at least 4 more weeks in the
structure / coop where they will be living.
Gosh... I feel I could go on and on, but don't want to flood you with information. There's so much we could share.... so, just a few more things you asked about and then you can post questions as you go along.
Food - needs to be high protein - game bird starter works well and then just follow directions on when to move to a grower. You may have to order it as many feed stores don't carry it on their shelves. I don't use medicated feed, and depending on the
medication, some can be lethal for guineas, whereas it's okay for chickens.
Coop - guineas will love to go high, but I keep my double roosts at 3 and 5 feet so I can reach them at night. That's the only time I can get to them in case I need to
administer first aid, medication, band them or isolate them. If they are high up, I can't get to them. Just my preference...
Good luck with your quest. We've come to realize we don't own guineas, they own us! Feel free to pop in with any more questions
and we all have different farm set ups, so take what you think will work best for you and go with it. If it doesn't work, try something else.
Good luck with the process!

Awesome info!

 

[MartinsPoultry]

Thanks everyone. And it was just coincidence and a bad one at that.
We will get through this, hard to sit and dwell on whos passed on when we have an active farm and two dogs plus reptiles to tend too.

 

[GlennLee]

Thanks @GlennLee

A flock guardian dog is a great idea! I considered it, but it wouldn't work here based on their needs and we already have a dog who is more of a princess than a guard dog, unless it's the UPS truck!

I follow your philosophy on free ranging - that's what they were created to do and that's why I have them, but there are times when I wish they would be happy sticking closer to home, just for their safety. My fall and springs are rough here and we are already up to 4 losses this fall, I think due to a fox. They travel across the road to my neighbor's property and there's a large wooded are there. Good spot for foxes and coyotes to hang out and make their move. Also, it's hawk migration and they think it's a fast food restaurant with my flock.

@Dmontgomery also has ongoing issues with rat snakes and has posted some pics in this thread. Will your dog be of help in this situation? When you get to the laying point, if there's a way to encourage them to lay inside, that might help... just a thought. Thankfully, that's one predator NOT on my list.

Please do keep following and posting here... the more, the merrier!

Christy
@MartinsPoultry
mentioned it's like being on a roller coaster ride... I think there's a bit of the "Tower of Terror" and lazy river float thrown in there as well! Just depends on the day...

 

[GlennLee]

Sorry about the post above being contained in a reply quote. Not sure what's going on, but it originally included the text from my previous post as well.... it could be the system, it could be me!