sorry BYC is acting up again.
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Help! Casey (My Duck) has a prolapse! First time treatment for me.
- Thread starter Tevyes Dad
- Start date
Have you read this? http://www.majesticwaterfowl.org/mmissue98.htm
Oviduct Prolapse
While on the subject of prolapse, here are a few tips regarding oviduct prolapse in females:
Immediately bring the duck inside and keep her very clean. Do not let her sit in fecal matter. Change the towels underneath her frequently.
Coat the prolapsed oviduct with lubricating ointment (regular formula, non-irritating, K-Y Jelly) to keep it moist and then spray it with sugar water to help shrink the swollen tissue.
Call your vet immediately. She will need surgery to tuck and stitch the oviduct back inside. As with males, do not attempt to do any of this tucking back inside yourself.
Do NOT administer Rimadyl or Metacam; they can promote bleeding. However, Torbutrol can be used for pain and administered up to every six hours.
Purse string sutures are commonly placed around the circumference of the oviduct, allowing for the egg to fit through (they don't restrict the expansion of the oviduct or cloaca). Medications for platelet replenishment (blood loss) may or may not be necessary depending on severity (especially if there is any torn tissue).
After coming home, your duck should be kept on pain medication for the first 7-10 days (Torbutrol is very effective and safe for waterfowl). Your duck will also need to stay on a general antibiotic like Baytril for a couple of weeks, administered twice daily to prevent infection.
The oviduct is a fast healing portion of the body and internal mending can occur as soon as 5-7 days, although your duck may still need to be kept separate from other ducks (especially males) for longer.
Vet follow-ups are vital part of your duck's post-surgical care, so remember to bring her back for check-ups!
Oviduct Prolapse
While on the subject of prolapse, here are a few tips regarding oviduct prolapse in females:
Immediately bring the duck inside and keep her very clean. Do not let her sit in fecal matter. Change the towels underneath her frequently.
Coat the prolapsed oviduct with lubricating ointment (regular formula, non-irritating, K-Y Jelly) to keep it moist and then spray it with sugar water to help shrink the swollen tissue.
Call your vet immediately. She will need surgery to tuck and stitch the oviduct back inside. As with males, do not attempt to do any of this tucking back inside yourself.
Do NOT administer Rimadyl or Metacam; they can promote bleeding. However, Torbutrol can be used for pain and administered up to every six hours.
Purse string sutures are commonly placed around the circumference of the oviduct, allowing for the egg to fit through (they don't restrict the expansion of the oviduct or cloaca). Medications for platelet replenishment (blood loss) may or may not be necessary depending on severity (especially if there is any torn tissue).
After coming home, your duck should be kept on pain medication for the first 7-10 days (Torbutrol is very effective and safe for waterfowl). Your duck will also need to stay on a general antibiotic like Baytril for a couple of weeks, administered twice daily to prevent infection.
The oviduct is a fast healing portion of the body and internal mending can occur as soon as 5-7 days, although your duck may still need to be kept separate from other ducks (especially males) for longer.
Vet follow-ups are vital part of your duck's post-surgical care, so remember to bring her back for check-ups!
- Thread starter
- #13
- Apr 22, 2014
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Very good! So far we have been doing the right thing, but were about to do the wrong thing (stick it all back in). I will slick her up with some K-Y and keep her as clean as possible (she hasn't eaten since 11:00 this morning so her pooping is slowing down) - one source recommended them not eating for 24 hrs so I will get her into the vet tomorrow. Thanks for your timely post!
Okay I give up my posts keep coming up 2X
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Have you tried the sugar water spritz?
Please let us know as soon as you can what the vet says and does. Prayers for Casey and You 2.
Hi,
Been away from the computer all day . . .
TD, you're doing very well. Those do appear to perhaps be some dried poop - now whether they are attached to tissue or feathers, - the one on the left in the photo appears to be attached to tissue. Elfie, who's not a big swimmer, had some dried poop dangles pretty tightly attached to her vent a couple of years ago - even caused some bleeding when she laid an egg - that's what got my attention.
When Sechs was first eggbound/prolapsed,(edit - after the vet removed the egg and put some stitches in her vent) I kept her in a darkened but not pitch black room, and there were eggs there, and she gathered them up and started sitting...which was great because mine don't lay when they set eggs...
Reducing inflammation is important as you know - I suspect the PrepH can help topically - and I would start adding turmeric to her food right away. It's a natural anti inflammatory and the vet told me it is fine to give to ducks until you can get to a vet.
....
edit to add
Since not all vets think the same way, I will report what I recall from Sechs' second eggbound episode. This time she was not prolapsed yet - I found her straining, not looking right. Took her in, the x-ray showed the bound, lightly-shelled egg in her oviduct. She was given a hormone injection to stop egg laying for a month, some calcium, and we started her on Metacam anti inflammatory and Bactrim antibiotic, as she was already showing signs of some beginnings of infection. Kept her on the Metacam for several days, and the Bactrim for I think 12 or 14 days (I suspect I posted about that). With the hormone injection no need to keep her in the dark. Took 5 or 6 days to pass the shell - the yolk and white came out before then.
For Casey, keeping her clean as possible, lubricated, and TLC'd till you can get to the vet tomorrow makes sense to me. I would definitely add the turmeric to her food or water. You know that stuff stains, right? But I think it is helpful. And ought not interfere with anything the vet does or prescribes, I think.
Been away from the computer all day . . .
TD, you're doing very well. Those do appear to perhaps be some dried poop - now whether they are attached to tissue or feathers, - the one on the left in the photo appears to be attached to tissue. Elfie, who's not a big swimmer, had some dried poop dangles pretty tightly attached to her vent a couple of years ago - even caused some bleeding when she laid an egg - that's what got my attention.
When Sechs was first eggbound/prolapsed,(edit - after the vet removed the egg and put some stitches in her vent) I kept her in a darkened but not pitch black room, and there were eggs there, and she gathered them up and started sitting...which was great because mine don't lay when they set eggs...
Reducing inflammation is important as you know - I suspect the PrepH can help topically - and I would start adding turmeric to her food right away. It's a natural anti inflammatory and the vet told me it is fine to give to ducks until you can get to a vet.
....
edit to add
Since not all vets think the same way, I will report what I recall from Sechs' second eggbound episode. This time she was not prolapsed yet - I found her straining, not looking right. Took her in, the x-ray showed the bound, lightly-shelled egg in her oviduct. She was given a hormone injection to stop egg laying for a month, some calcium, and we started her on Metacam anti inflammatory and Bactrim antibiotic, as she was already showing signs of some beginnings of infection. Kept her on the Metacam for several days, and the Bactrim for I think 12 or 14 days (I suspect I posted about that). With the hormone injection no need to keep her in the dark. Took 5 or 6 days to pass the shell - the yolk and white came out before then.
For Casey, keeping her clean as possible, lubricated, and TLC'd till you can get to the vet tomorrow makes sense to me. I would definitely add the turmeric to her food or water. You know that stuff stains, right? But I think it is helpful. And ought not interfere with anything the vet does or prescribes, I think.
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- Thread starter
- #17
- Apr 22, 2014
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Thank you Amiga. After her long soak, she didn't look much different, so I will leave the "poops" there. I greased her up with K-Y, an uncomfortable endeavor for both of us. And I packed her in an XL dog kennel for the night (inside) I completely covered it with towels so she will be in the dark. I didn't do the sugar water since I had already done the preparation H and it seems they are the same thing. I wasn't planning on feeding her until after the vet visit to keep the pooping to a minimum (both for the mess and the having to pass it). I only have very old dried turmeric on hand, but we are putting the supplements we gave the ducklings in her water. I will see if she might take a bite of the turmeric directly just to get a little in her system.
- Thread starter
- #19
- Apr 22, 2014
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Oops, I was mistaken, we have no turmeric. Hopefully the prep-H keeps her comfortable enough until she gets to the vet. I will post as soon as I am back from the vet, but I don't know when that will be.
Hugs and prayers - the turmeric is more of a longer term supplement - you are doing well with what you have - I have seen worse prolapses.
She may have a bit of a fungal infection of her vent - that can happen. Something to ask the vet, since a few of them seem to focus on bacterial infections and can miss the other kind (that require different medication).
So I think I am wondering if this is actually a prolapse or not - definitely something going on with the tissue around the vent....
She may have a bit of a fungal infection of her vent - that can happen. Something to ask the vet, since a few of them seem to focus on bacterial infections and can miss the other kind (that require different medication).
So I think I am wondering if this is actually a prolapse or not - definitely something going on with the tissue around the vent....
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