Help me strengthen my wheels

Discussion in 'Coop & Run - Design, Construction, & Maintenance' started by suzyQlou, May 28, 2011.

  1. suzyQlou

    suzyQlou Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Mar 12, 2011
    Dillsburg, PA
    My Coop
    Dh and I had a babysitter this afternoon, so it was a good day of coop building. This is the first he's helped me, and we didn't even come close to killing each other.

    After a lot of progress, we ran into a glitch connecting the wheels. There wasn't enough room to secure them directly under the coop's legs. Of course, we didn't discover that until after we drilled the first few holes for the bolts. I am hating the compromise dh talked me into. I don't think they will hold up at all.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The wheels are the castor-type wheels from Harbor Freight that swivel. Right now, they are secured with bolts into a 1x6 board.

    So, I'm thinking I could
    1. Replace the 1x6 board with a slightly longer one. This allows the wheels to be placed exactly under the legs, but it prevents the coop from connecting flush-ly to my run. I have already built a 4x8 run, and I'm planning to connect it to the tall side of the coop.
    2. Double-up the 2x4 legs to make them 4x4 at the bottom where the wheels connect. Screw the wheels directly into the 4x4s. I might actually have to triple this up to 6x4. The metal plates on the wheels are pretty big.
    3. Replace the 1x6 board that connects the legs with a stronger 2x6 board. This will distribute the weight better across the board without snapping.
    4. Do nothing. Dh is right. It's strong enough for chickens.

    This is my first big project like this, and I could use whatever advice you can muster. Thanks!
     
  2. CoyoteMagic

    CoyoteMagic RIP ?-2014

    I agree that board is going to snap! Go with the 2x6!

    How much are the wheels at Harbor Freight?
     
  3. suzyQlou

    suzyQlou Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Mar 12, 2011
    Dillsburg, PA
    My Coop
    I have kind of lost track of spending on this project. I think I used some coupons, and paid about $25 for each wheel. I remember it being more than I wanted to spend, but they are going to work really well (eventually...).
     
  4. bryan99705

    bryan99705 Chillin' With My Peeps

    Run it till the wheels fall off! By then, you'll have a even better idea. Besides, unless you're forcing it thru deep mud or deep soft gravel, the tires will roll easily.
     
  5. suzyQlou

    suzyQlou Chillin' With My Peeps

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    101
    Mar 12, 2011
    Dillsburg, PA
    My Coop
    Lol, Bryan. I swear you and my husband are in cahoots.

    But in a way, you're right. There are so many other things to worry about, this won't be fixed right away. Besides, it will take at least one more trip to Lowes. May as well see what else goes wrong first [​IMG]
     
  6. bryan99705

    bryan99705 Chillin' With My Peeps

    Quote:I did the same thing and cought static from my wife too. BUT, I've pushed it thru a muddy driveway, hooked up and towed it with a 4wheeler thru mud and ice breakup and it's still just fine. Admit it, once in a while the husbands get it right [​IMG]
     
  7. jamband

    jamband Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Apr 26, 2011
    either switch it with a 2x 6 or double up the 2x4s it will however probably last a while that way if you are not beating on it.
     
  8. Dogfish

    Dogfish Rube Goldberg incarnate

    Mar 17, 2010
    Western Washington
    Nice looking project.

    1. 2x6 would be a great upgrade and make it much sturdier.

    2. The wheels don't have to be directly under the legs. Near them will be sufficient. The 2x6 has more than enough weigh bearing capacity. The wheels can be inboard or outboard of the legs. I would place them slightly outboard as that will give you better stability. Placing them inboard of the legs will make it tippy.

    3. My concern is that the 2x6 board not just be attached at the end grain of the legs. This is the weakest type of connection. Movement will weaken the attachments (screws or nails) over time.

    Easily solved though. The board that will become the 2x6 (now a 1x6) needs to be moved forward towards your garage door. The trailing edge should be flush with the legs. Take the 1x6, attach it to the backside of the front legs so that the bottom of the 1x6 is flush with the bottom of the 2x6. Basically they form an "L" with the legs touching vertical and horizontal planes. Put screws through the 1x6 into both the legs and the horizontal 2x6. Don't use nails.

    One more thing. To make it easier to move, attach two handles to the underside of the framing on the side opposite the wheels. That way you can move it like a wheelbarrow. 2x2's might work if it isn't too overbuilt. Make them wide enough for you to walk up and stand in between them. Lift with your knees.

    Should just take a few minutes to correct and you will be happy with it for many years.
     

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