Chicken eggs require totally different humidity than ducks and geese. 50 eggs at a time is a large number of eggs for someone brand new to incubating. Each type of egg has a different incubation length also. So lockdown would be rough at best doing all three at once.
It is best to run a forced air incubator and a still air hatcher. This way you do not dry out the hatchlings with the fan running when they pip externally.
I love my Brinsea Eco for duck eggs, even ran some messed up shipped goose eggs in them. Our main bator is a cabinet though, and adding a second before next years season starts. Once will be three racks of goose eggs, one will be three racks of duck eggs. The Brinsea Eco will be for the few chick egg we set.
The Brinsea Eco will hold 24 eggs and very full proof as far as set up and running.
The new GQF styro with fan will hold like 45-48 eggs (not goose total) and are very well liked.
Your local climate will dictate your set up some also.
We live in FL, with high relative humidity. So we run what is called dry incubation. Trying to keep the humidity between 22-30% for all eggs during incubation.
Chicken eggs it is raised to atleast 70% at lockdown, the eggs are not turned any longer and they stay like this until all hatch, or 1 day post the expected due date.
Ducks run the same except they are misted once a day beginning day 10 until lockdown, humidity raised to 75%+ at lockdown for them.
Geese require hands on attention all through the hatch process. They are not a set and walk away until lock down. We have auto turners that rock side to side around the clock. I also hand turn 180* once a day. Beginning day 7 I start cooling and misting 15 a day until day 14/15 then it is increased to 20/30 minutes because of our climate here. Drier climates don't follow the same cooling system I do. It is the only way to get proper weight loss and air cell development here.
When jumping into artificial incubation you have to accept upfront there will be losses, and figure out how much financial and emotional investment you want to put in.
It is best to run a forced air incubator and a still air hatcher. This way you do not dry out the hatchlings with the fan running when they pip externally.
I love my Brinsea Eco for duck eggs, even ran some messed up shipped goose eggs in them. Our main bator is a cabinet though, and adding a second before next years season starts. Once will be three racks of goose eggs, one will be three racks of duck eggs. The Brinsea Eco will be for the few chick egg we set.
The Brinsea Eco will hold 24 eggs and very full proof as far as set up and running.
The new GQF styro with fan will hold like 45-48 eggs (not goose total) and are very well liked.
Your local climate will dictate your set up some also.
We live in FL, with high relative humidity. So we run what is called dry incubation. Trying to keep the humidity between 22-30% for all eggs during incubation.
Chicken eggs it is raised to atleast 70% at lockdown, the eggs are not turned any longer and they stay like this until all hatch, or 1 day post the expected due date.
Ducks run the same except they are misted once a day beginning day 10 until lockdown, humidity raised to 75%+ at lockdown for them.
Geese require hands on attention all through the hatch process. They are not a set and walk away until lock down. We have auto turners that rock side to side around the clock. I also hand turn 180* once a day. Beginning day 7 I start cooling and misting 15 a day until day 14/15 then it is increased to 20/30 minutes because of our climate here. Drier climates don't follow the same cooling system I do. It is the only way to get proper weight loss and air cell development here.
When jumping into artificial incubation you have to accept upfront there will be losses, and figure out how much financial and emotional investment you want to put in.
