EXACTLY! I read a lot of antique cookbooks and am even cooking from them - particularly the cookbooks from the mid 1700s through the 1800s. Their idea of meat is definitely different from ours. Many of the cookbooks from this time period include things like the weight of a bird to be used in the recipe, how to raise the meat, how to slaughter the meat and how to cut it up and use it. And they used everything, not just a small portion of the animal that they butchered.
They didn't go through the drive thru and ask them to Super Size their chickens.
Precisely! 1700's and 1800's? PM me some titles. That's great. I would add, too, that one doesn't even have to go back that far, although that is outstandingly cool.
Here's heritage chicken in a nutshell. I could add many other sources, but these serve to illustrate how our entire chicken reality has completely changed. Notice the first book, perhaps the single most popular cookbook n America, is coming from the 1964 edition--not so long ago:
The Joy of Cooking, 1964.
The introduction to poultry begins, "Poultry cooks and tastes best if used within 8 to 24 hours after slaughter." This though wouldn't even occur to the 2014 mind. They offer: "Young chickens ofeither sex are called broilers if they weigh about 2 1/2 pounds and fryers if they weigh 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 pounds. Roasters, also of either sex, are under 8 months old and weigh 3 1/2 to 5 lbs [...] Capons, or castrated males, weigh 6 to 8 lbs. "Fowl" is a broadly polite "nom de plume" for hens aged 10 months or more, and a "stag" or "cock" for males that are too old to roast, but are well-flavored adjuncts for the stock pot.
La Cuisine Raisonnee. I believe the first edition was in 1919. The is the "Joy of Cooking" of Quebec
In its introduction to poultry it offers some indicative definitions. The term used to describe weights, "
jusqu'a (up to)" betrays the that there was common variance in weight, which might reflect the variety of breeds used in an economy that was still based in regional food production:
"Broilers; up to 2lbs.
Fryers: up to 4lbs.
Roasters: up to 4lb.
Capons: up to 8lbs
Fowl/Hens...[no exact weight offered, which would also make sense considering the variety of possibilities at the time]
Modern Priscilla Cook Book: One Thousand Home Tested Recipes. 1924.
The chapter on poultry in the book begins with a neat introduction. One of the assumptions is that you are going to have to pluck and dressed at home the bird you brought from the market. It says "chicken" has pinfeathers with no hairs, while fowl has long hairs instead of pinfeathers. Interestingly, many recipes call for so many cups of diced chicken. I would that the reason would be that chickens, purchase whole, would be cooked, either roasted or braised, and then the meat would be pulled from the bone, diced, a then used over the course of multiple meals. I know that we do that here. Every weekend I stew up a couple of birds. I pull the meat and put it in a bowl in the fridge. I save the stock for cooking, and I feed the skin to the dog. Over the course of the week, we draw on the chicken and dice it up for various preparations.
"Chicken Baked with Parsnips": 2 young roasting chickens, 9lbs.
"Broiled Chicken": Have (4) 2.5/lb broilers dressed and split [spatchcocked] for broiling.
"Fricassee of Chicken": 7/lb. fowl