Heritage Large Fowl - Phase II

[3riverschick]

I believe a lot of times, the recommended temperature can lead to pasty butt. I think the super high temperatures are necessary when they are drying off, but after the first day or so, once they are up and moving, I think they prefer it a bit cooler.

It does seem so. Never thought of that. No pasty butt, I've been checking.
I am thinking maybe even move to a 75 watt white bulb.
Best,
Karen

 

[ronott1]

It does seem so. Never thought of that. No pasty butt, I've been checking.
I am thinking maybe even move to a 75 watt white bulb.
Best,
Karen

I have become more and more convinced that the high temps are over kill.

Stock up on those bulbs. They have been banned since January 1, 2014.

Quote: Full article here. http://www.foxnews.com/tech/2013/12/31/end-road-for-incandescent-light-bulb/

 

[fowlman01]

Yes, if they are to warm they can get pasty butt and heat lamps heat further out than the little bulbs I use. I don't use thermometers. I just listen and watch the birds. They tell you if they need more or less heat. If they are noisy they need more heat. If they are as far away as they can get from the heat source they have to much heat. As Bob always said "keep it simple". I stopped using a thermometer in a brooders 40 years ago. You can make raising chicks very complicated if that suits you but I'm lazy and I have to many birds to do a lot of things people are doing lately.

Walt

Walt

 

[gjensen]

One thing to consider with the heat lamps is the type of heat that it puts out. It is a radiant heat that heats the objects before the space. 250 is a lot for a small brooder. Stick your hand under it and it will heat up hotter than the air around it.

An important consideration like Walt and Ron mentioned is a range of temperatures. With captive reptiles you want a warm side and cool side. They use this range to thermo regulate. A chick is not cold blooded, but at that stage they need assistance. A range of temperature is ideal. The water and feed being away from the heat source. If there is enough room, they find their own comfort zone.
Picture the heat source as the mother hen. They do not live under her, but use her to warm up as needed.

I use 250s with large outdoor brooders with a rheostat. This is in large boxes out in potentially freezing weather.

 

[gjensen]

When the regular light bulbs are gone, go to the pet store. They make low wattage bulbs for heating terrariums, and providing a hot spot. Of course it will cost a lot more.

 

[subhanalah]

I use a 90 watt flood lamp that's red. If they had a 75, I'd get one of those instead. (Important to NOT get a spot light, that'll cook em.)

 

[gjensen]

I believe a lot of times, the recommended temperature can lead to pasty butt. I think the super high temperatures are necessary when they are drying off, but after the first day or so, once they are up and moving, I think they prefer it a bit cooler.

I have wondered if it was not more about the dehydrating effect of the hot radiant heat bulbs. They will wick the moisture away fast. You have to drink a huge amount of water to keep ahead of the sun in the desert.

 

[subhanalah]

 I have wondered if it was not more about the dehydrating effect of the hot radiant heat bulbs. They will wick the moisture away fast. You have to drink a huge amount of water to keep ahead of the sun in the desert.

very good point!

 

[NanaKat]

Someone mentioned chicks upside down in the shell....disorientation...a few pages back.
I'm having that problem this hatch.
Doing an eggcropsy on those that didn't hatch. Chick's head is under a leg instead of a wing ..not pipped into the air bubble, but on the side.
We are having a week of heavy rains and high humidity. I incubate in a Hovabator with an egg turner that is removed on day 18 and eggs set upright in paper cartons with holes in the egg cups. Water beads on the viewing windows...indicates humidity is rising. I'm thinking that May be part of the problem so I've reduced the water in the water tray so hopefully the batch due on the 10th will do better.

Anything else I should consider?

As for my homemade brooder, I use a 40 watt bulb in the styrofoam box set to one side. I cut rectangular holes in the lid and use plexiglass covers I can move to open air flow to regulate the temperature. Excuse Red...he likes watching the chicks in the brooder. Chicks stay in this for a week before going to the big wooden brooder with a 60 watt bulb.

 

[bnjrob]

I believe a lot of times, the recommended temperature can lead to pasty butt. I think the super high temperatures are necessary when they are drying off, but after the first day or so, once they are up and moving, I think they prefer it a bit cooler.

Agree. I don't use a bulb anymore unless I have more separate brooders than I have warmers for. We use the platform type warmers, have one from Brinsea and another from Sweeter Heater. This year the chicks were off of heat at 2 weeks old in a room that got down to 60* at night and in the 70s during the day depending on how hot a fire I had in the fireplace. The chicks just seem to do much better with being cooler than that "start at 95*" recommendation that you see in various chicken books.