How do Isterilize a used coop?

The reason bleach is not used in many sprayers is that it can corrode the plastic or rubber hoses, whereas vinegar is much safer. Vinegar is also safe for chickens to consume & is recommended to dilute in their water source.
 
Hose it down first, preferably with something like hydrogen peroxide detergent. Then spray it with permethrin spray and let sit for a week. Spray again and let it sit another week. Then it should be ready for use.

Do inspect crevices for red roost mites. If you find those (look like small red or black fish eggs in the crevices and corners or red-black streaks), burn the coop. RRM are very hard to get rid of. Fortunately they aren't that common in many areas.

I've re-used an old coop and had no problems. But I did let it sit for 6 months (unintentionally...hubby took that long to move it). I did disinfect with hydrogen peroxide (or bleach) then spray with permethrin.

Good luck.
LofMc
 
The reason bleach is not used in many sprayers is that it can corrode the plastic or rubber hoses, whereas vinegar is much safer. Vinegar is also safe for chickens to consume & is recommended to dilute in their water source.
Bleach evaporates rapidly when applying outdoors! It has little effect on mites and other microscopic concerns if not deluged. The appropriate control is permeable gaseous bombs like Vapona. Now, sunlight and heat are globally effective. I’ve tarped structures using heavy (6 mil.) black plastic, off the ground to 140 degrees for 36 to 48 hours. All dies, even bedbugs, given either this heat hell or the vapor of death!!
Personally I’d rig a pressure positive envelope for the structure using a plastic coffee can, a small leaf blower w/ a gaseous sterilization media. If your dollars are low ballin’ then use bleach fumes.
 
Bleach evaporates rapidly when applying outdoors! It has little effect on mites and other microscopic concerns if not deluged. The appropriate control is permeable gaseous bombs like Vapona. Now, sunlight and heat are globally effective. I’ve tarped structures using heavy (6 mil.) black plastic, off the ground to 140 degrees for 36 to 48 hours. All dies, even bedbugs, given either this heat hell or the vapor of death!!
Personally I’d rig a pressure positive envelope for the structure using a plastic coffee can, a small leaf blower w/ a gaseous sterilization media. If your dollars are low ballin’ then use bleach fumes.

This is a very creative option.
 
Bleach evaporates rapidly when applying outdoors! It has little effect on mites and other microscopic concerns if not deluged. The appropriate control is permeable gaseous bombs like Vapona. Now, sunlight and heat are globally effective. I’ve tarped structures using heavy (6 mil.) black plastic, off the ground to 140 degrees for 36 to 48 hours. All dies, even bedbugs, given either this heat hell or the vapor of death!!
Personally I’d rig a pressure positive envelope for the structure using a plastic coffee can, a small leaf blower w/ a gaseous sterilization media. If your dollars are low ballin’ then use bleach fumes.
I prefer not to use poison ☠️. And rather use a steamer to get rid of mites, bedbugs and such. Steaming works great too.
 
I would use a steam cleaner. A lot safer than a burner. No chemicals needed and kills mite too. Only the eggs of the red blood/bird mite in hidden cracks survive. But you probably don’t have any mites in this as good as new coop at all. So 2 x cleaning with a steamer, with 10 days in between should be fine.

I bought one against dust mite in the house. A good cleaning tool for lots of things.
Technically heat, steam or radiant, must develop and maintain a 140 degree constant temperature for eight hours to kill mites, residual or remnant fauna on or in structures.
Personally I can get any place heated to 140 plus degrees yet keeping all the crevices and voids to temperature isn’t possible with usual methods. Tarping the structure then laying in sand on all ground contact lines of the tarps gives the most eradication potential. To attempt this,( heat process) for self pride of not using fumigants, won’t work as needed because of a learning curve of success never happens the first time. Cost of heat equipment rental which is safe enough for bug control but not so hot to burn down the structure and to pull this off successfully is the equivalent of being a blind bus driver.
 
The reason bleach is not used in many sprayers is that it can corrode the plastic or rubber hoses, whereas vinegar is much safer. Vinegar is also safe for chickens to consume & is recommended to dilute in their water source.
As to bleach and it’s corrosive impact on equipment I say not completely true. Women gave used bleach from day one yet we never hear manufacturers cautioning against its use. As to high concentrations, the effectiveness for residual irradiation or knock down is still only surface sufficient for the unlucky exposed populations. You can’t get where they’re lairs are!! Only heat does this. Post back as there is a ton more to allow for residual control.
 
Thankfully, I haven’t run into a mite yet. My SIL is a clean freak. She would have warned me. I will check with a flashlight.
Mites require a microscope and a base of identification knowledge to discern which or if even they’re a problem.
Also I’ve read some quasi dangerous concoctions suggested on this thread ( mixing varied chemicals) that are known to explode through novel attempts at a risky cure of mostly unknown or not present parasites. I was a fire service officer for 20 years. Most activities go okay yet the dripping facial skin from a novices concoctions is an anger point for most experienced people.
 

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