INDIANA BYC'ers HERE!

[ellymayRans]

Please do let us know the available breeds.

He listed the Orlaffs, Legbars, jubilees and something else. Lol

 

[minmin1258]

Good Morning Hoosier BYCer's!!  Well I saw an ad on C List for some Amer. Bresse chicks for sale and my wife and I were able to make a trip yesterday early evening down to Mooresville where we had the pleasure of meeting Patrick ( racingchickens ) if I got the screen name wrong forgive me please, We had a very nice visit and Patrick was kind enough to show us his set up ( he has an unbelievable selection of birds to include two very cool breed of turkey and far too many breeds of chicken for me to remember them all. And before we knew it we were heading home wit (2) three week old Bresse's ( our first chicks ) and we're excited to get started!!!

Paul

Welcome to Indiana BYCers! You've joined a great group. Jump right in.

 

[Chaneys Ranch]

That's right lady's and gentlemen, I fired it up once again!!
I'll be setting around 3 dozen Bresse eggs from the awesome racinchickins. The eggs should arrive tomorrow and after the proper resting time I'll be putting them in the (easy bake chick oven)!

OOOooooOOO jealous, I still want to try them out here. Not till they have a coop to go into!

Hey guys, if anyone is not getting email notifications from BYC, I fixed mine.
I get several messages a day from fellow BYC'ers and really missed the notices! Started sometime last week.

For PC users...Go to your profile, upper right side hover over your user name. Choose preferences, and just hit save at the bottom. I did not change anything. Assuming they had a privacy update, and it caused notifications to stop working until it was saved again..

Reposting this in case anyone missed it.

 

[birdman55]

most big breeders that have birds...worm their birds twice a year...they dont have time to do fecals and such...when they have a routine...and when dealing with lots of birds...you cant take the chance on not worming because you dont think they have something...that is why i worm mine...i have over 300 birds now...and when you learn from the big breeders you do what the big breeders do..totally different if your just a backyard flock person with a couple of birds...especially if the birds are only five dollar chickens...but when dealing with couple hundred dollar birds...and you have over a hundred...you tend to not take chances......here is a direct quote followed by a link....."Many health problems that your occur can be related to an infestation of worms of some sort, so it is important to not only worm your birds regularly but manage houses and runs correctly in between worming treatments (more on this later though)."...http://poultrykeeper.com/general-chickens/worming-chickens
another direct quote...."a vet will usually ask when examining a sick bird is "When was he / she last wormed...?" so it is worth ensuring you have a worming routine just to make sure you don't have problems."
and yet another quote"The most common symptoms are loss of weight / poor weight gain, increased feed consumption, pale yolk colour, diarrhoea and in severe cases, anaemia (pale comb and wattles) mortality. In the case of gapeworm, chickens will gasp for breath or 'gape' stretching their neck."
quote...."One of the things you can do in keeping an eye out for worms is to inspect droppings regularly, although unless there are large numbers of worms, there aren't always worms present in droppings"
"Prevention is always easier than cure so follow good husbandry techniques and combined with regular worming (according to the manufacturer's instructions), you shouldn't see any problems."
....hope this site helps for worms and the problems the birds have when they have them....most people have birds on the ground...some have them on wire...my quail are on wire...however if they have access to the dirt...then you should worm...just eating one worm that is on the ground can infect the chicken if the worm is a host....

 

[kittydoc]

@kittydoc
Thanks for the info on the Brinsea! Do you have the humidity pump with yours?


ETA: Which specific model is your 20...

I did not get the humidity pump for either. It just isn't that hard to keep it right. I bought a couple of nice digital thermometers/hygrometers from Amazon.com that appear accurate (they matched the digital setting on my Mini at least). I add more water (I use reverse osmosis water from our sink because we are on a well--but I think it's a good idea to use distilled water even if you have "city water") as needed and as appropriate for what I'm incubating, and whether it is in lockdown. The 20 has two chambers, the 40 has four. The humidity pump I felt was too expensive, and I was already used to checking regularly when I had the Mini, so it was no big whoop to just leave one of the digital units in each incubator (except during lockdown--I wouldn't want babies stumbling over them). I try to leave a little bit of space for the digital units, so I lose a few egg spots. You can't just leave it on top or they'll make an awful racket as the turner rocks them, plus I'm sure some would break (probably the show winning pullets, too, LOL).

Speaking of which, I did pop for the automatic turners. I am way too lazy to turn that many eggs. I paid for the turner with the MINI which only holds 7, that's how bad I am. I'll look in on them several times a day to check temp/humidity, watch for pips, and all that, but regular ole egg turning? Not my thing.

Be sure to register what you get online with Brinsea promptly (including the separate components, like the turner and the pump), so you get a two year warranty. The bottom plate on my Mini broke and they sent me a new one right away.

I will say that if money were no object, I'd love to have digital temp and humidity control, but money IS an object, so I did without for the 20 and the 40. Do NOT rely on their glass thermometers. They are within 2 degrees, but unless you check them against the digital, you won't know if it's high or low. I know both of mine run about 2 degrees low, which is better than running 2 degrees high, but I try hard to keep them in the 99-100 range. If you try to fine-tune them more than that with the manual temp models like I have (they say they are preset, but it's only ballpark), you'll lose your marbles. It fluctuates slightly during the day, even when the incubators are away from windows, heat/AC vents, etc. I didn't worry when it went down to 98.something, but hit the freak out button if it gets up to 101.

 

[Mother2Hens]

hey indianians...lol...been super hard at work...got four blisters on my hands..not cool but anything for the birds...lol...well moved 130 birds out to the hoop coop and they are happy....and its so quite in the house...now i have quail, pheasants, and chickens hatching...over 200....boy...i just cant stop....lol...here are some pics if you havnt been stopping by and enjoying my thread...but dont be shy...check it out and post...hahaha





see yah here or there...ahha
until then best wishes to everyone...and happy chickening....lol...spell check didnt even underline the chickening...didnt know that was a word....lol

birdman ~ You should be on a reality show called, "Extreme Chickening"!
Originally Posted by jchny2000 Sophie kidded around 9am this morning. Meet our newest little doeling

Sugar is due any day!


@jchny2000 Awww-- Happy Times!!

@kittydoc ~ Thanks for showing the adorable photos of your English Orp chicks!! I'm curious-- what does a black-lavender split look like when it's grown? I am tempted, but I keep telling myself that I don't have room for any additional gigantic chickens.

@CCCCCCCCHICKENS I looked in my "Chicken Health for Dummies" book, but didn't see anything about eye problems that described your chicken's eyes. It's probably allergic to tree pollen!
@iamfivewire You'll have to post pics of your Marans chick and its new buddies.
@kabhyper1 I didn't see a female black cuckoo frizzle. When you hatch one, let me know.

lol
@flyladyrocks That's great that you can have lots of chickens in Irvington!

I want silkies but now that I'm picking up 6 turkeys I'm a little worried about tiny silkies even when full grown being in the same coop. It's about 14 ft by 10 ft. Might have to sell some turkeys or build another coop.
Probably better to keep them separate. I remember when one of our members had a chick trampled by a turkey.

 

[CCCCCCCCHICKENS]

P

just throwing this out there...but just because you cant see worms doesnt mean they dont have them...as there are many types of worms....and different types take different amounts of wormers...some worms you cant see as well....and if you never had a fecal done you truly dont know if they are worm free....i worm all my birds twice a year....just to make sure...can never be to safe. hope the bird gets better

I wanted to mention that just because you don't see worms doesn't mean they don't have worms. I worm mine regularly regardless about every 3 months. Odd she's the age she is and never layed an egg. A healthy bird doesn't tend to have droopy eyes. Worm bound could def be the cause of lack of eggs and pale comb.

I am aware that not all parasites are able to be seen by the human eye. I should have stated it like this; I am going to treat my birds for worms unless I OR a vet sees them. I don't believe in treating something that isn't there. As far as being healthy or not. She is completely normal, happy, and healthy other than te fact that her eyes are irritated. And for te egg laying. I would have expected her to lay about 3 months ago, but maybe the being inside slowed her down. But I would have been highly surprised if she would have layed before turning a year old. She is a high quality bird, so she was expected to start around 14-16 months (not that tht is the case with all quality birds)

Just my opinion here...

But I wouldn't worm routinely....if you think you have a worm issue, take a dropping sample to a vet and have them test to see if it's needed.  If they don't need to be wormed, there isn't any reason to put them through the stress on their system.  Fecal testing is pretty inexpensive, and it will give you peace of mind ... and let you know if they need it or not.

I 100% agree. I don't see a point in treating something that isn't there. I believe in testing regularly, but not in treating reguraly. I don't want to pump my birds full of medicines if they don't need them.

 

[CCCCCCCCHICKENS]

[COLOR=008000]birdman[/COLOR] [COLOR=8B4513]~ You should be on a reality show called, "Extreme Chickening"![/COLOR] [rule]Originally Posted by jchny2000 /img/forum/go_quote.gifSophie kidded around 9am this morning. Meet our newest little doeling Sugar is due any day! @jchny2000 [COLOR=8B4513]Awww-- Happy Times!! [/COLOR] [rule]@kittydoc ~ [COLOR=8B4513]Thanks for showing the adorable photos of your English Orp chicks!! I'm curious-- what does a black-lavender split look like when it's grown? I am tempted, but I keep telling myself that I don't have room for any additional gigantic chickens. [/COLOR]:/ [rule]@CCCCCCCCHICKENS [COLOR=8B4513]I looked in my "Chicken Health for Dummies" book, but didn't see anything about eye problems that described your chicken's eyes. It's probably allergic to tree pollen![/COLOR] [rule]@iamfivewire [COLOR=8B4513]You'll have to post pics of your Marans chick and its new buddies.[/COLOR] [rule]@kabhyper1 [COLOR=8B4513] I didn't see a female black cuckoo frizzle. When you hatch one, let me know.[/COLOR] [COLOR=8B4513] lol[/COLOR] [rule]@flyladyrocks [COLOR=8B4513]That's great that you can have lots of chickens in Irvington! [/COLOR] [rule]

Thank you for looking!

 

[CCCCCCCCHICKENS]

most big breeders that have birds...worm their birds twice a year...they dont have time to do fecals and such...when they have a routine...and when dealing with lots of birds...you cant take the chance on not worming because you dont think they have something...that is why i worm mine...i have over 300 birds now...and when you learn from the big breeders you do what the big breeders do..totally different if your just a backyard flock person with a couple of birds...especially if the birds are only five dollar chickens...but when dealing with couple hundred dollar birds...and you have over a hundred...you tend to not take chances......here is a direct quote followed by a link....."[COLOR=000000]Many health problems that your occur can be related to an infestation of worms of some sort, so it is important to not only worm your birds regularly but manage houses and runs correctly in between worming treatments (more on this later though)."...[/COLOR]http://poultrykeeper.com/general-chickens/worming-chickens
another direct quote...."[COLOR=000000]a vet will usually ask when examining a sick bird is "When was he / she last wormed...?" so it is worth ensuring you have a worming routine just to make sure you don't have problems."[/COLOR]
[COLOR=000000]and yet another quote"The most common symptoms are loss of weight / poor weight gain, increased feed consumption, pale yolk colour, diarrhoea and in severe cases, anaemia (pale comb and wattles) mortality. In the case of gapeworm, chickens will gasp for breath or 'gape' stretching their neck."[/COLOR]
[COLOR=000000]quote...."One of the things you can do in keeping an eye out for worms is to inspect droppings regularly, although unless there are large numbers of worms, there aren't always worms present in droppings[/COLOR]"
"[COLOR=000000]Prevention is always easier than cure so follow good husbandry techniques and combined with regular worming (according to the manufacturer's instructions), you shouldn't see any problems."[/COLOR]
....hope this site helps for worms and the problems the birds have when they have them....most people have birds on the ground...some have them on wire...my quail are on wire...however if they have access to the dirt...then you should worm...just eating one worm that is on the ground can infect the chicken if the worm is a host....

I also have a lot of birds, including expensive birds. But I am still not putting them a worming routine. I have over a 100 birds. The SF that we have been talking about cost $50 from a very good breeder. I do like listening to old time breeders advice. but I don't do everything exactly like they do. And just because the old time breeders say something, doesn't alway mean there right. In this case no one is right or wrong, it is purely opinion and what you think is best for my birds. Since I have never had a serious problem with worms and still don't, I am not going to change my practice or beliefs. Everyone needs to have their own practices.

 

[Ol Grey Mare]

I also have a lot of birds, including expensive birds. But I am still not putting them a worming routine. I have over a 100 birds. The SF that we have been talking about cost $50 from a very good breeder. I do like listening to old time breeders advice. but I don't do everything exactly like they do. And just because the old time breeders say something, doesn't alway mean there right. In this case no one is right or wrong, it is purely opinion and what you think is best for my birds. Since I have never had a serious problem with worms and still don't, I am not going to change my practice or beliefs. Everyone needs to have their own practices.

X 2
This is similar to my take on the "old time" advice regarding maintaining a regular, rotational de-worming program for equines - I use need guided de-worming with FEC and directed treatment based on the results, which have shown that that the need for treatment is far lower that the rotational program.
There are plenty of things that "old time wisdom" would tell you to do that have been found to be misguided or flat out wrong with the advancement of our understanding of things. Just as there are plenty of things in which the old time wisdom is best. The wise person is open to either possibility and sorts through it all to reach the best solution they can.