Integrating chicks into flock at 4 weeks old.

I have 5 12 week old buffs, is it ok to introduce them to my exsiting flock of 8 mature Rhode Island reds? There has been little interaction between the 2 breeds. If not a good idea, what's the best course of action. THANKS
This thread is about integrating at a much younger age(4 wks)....
...12 weeks old need a totally different technique.

It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.

Read up on integration..... BYC advanced search>titles only>integration
This is good place to start reading, tho some info is outdated IMO:
http://www.backyardchickens.com/a/adding-to-your-flock
 
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How big are your doors @Blooie ?
I had trouble with size and made mine adjustable...
...you know how I like 'adjustable'. :D

Oh, I was so afraid you were going to ask that question. You know how precise and accurate I always try to be when doing something like this. I guess the inner measurement of the doorway would be about 5 inches wide and 6 inches tall? Shoot, I dunno....we just put a piece of wood up against our smallest hen and marked it then cut the rest. If she couldn't get in, the bigger ones sure couldn't. I know, I know. Blooied all the way. Adjustable works, and you have that stuff down to a science. If I was that smart that's what I would have done, but I figured they'd be done with the brooder and the brooder taken out by the time they are four weeks old, so if the chicks had to suck in their breaths to pop in and out for a few days it was no big deal.
 
I have a few of these folding vegetable crates that I've cut openings in a couple of the sides. I used them when mama hatched her chicks with the adult flock. The chicks were chased around at times but learned to go to mama or hide out inside the crate. I used the waterer to weigh it down and have water close by. They also learned to use it when I gave out treats. They'd grab something and hide in there so the bigs wouldn't steal it from them.

20170619_171325.jpg


They're now 14 weeks old and doing great. The littlest one still gets picked on sometimes but she'll usually go near the Roo and then no one seems to mess with her. Amazing how their structure developes. Here's a pic i took the other day.
20170713_180354.jpg

The littlest one awhile ago.
20170705_183145.jpg
 
My flock free range also, and I integrate around 4-5 weeks. It's a great time. At 6-7 weeks after at least 10 days of seeing but behind wire, I open the access to main flock area (coop) just enough so that little chicks can go in and out to main coop if they want (big ones can't go under the chicken door since its only open about 2 inches) Mostly the little ones don't try and venture out for at least a week.. then slowly one does, and soon lots are going back and forth. When I open the access to the outside in the morning, the adults all go out to free range and then the chicks feel more confident, and they venture into the coop for the day... they usually don't go outside to free range until 8 or 9 weeks.. They are smart enough to know where they are safest. So basically they just get to see eachother in the am, and pm, and when the hens come back into the coop to lay eggs ... but soon enough every one is together. I find that the adults usually leave the chicks alone, and only half heartedly peck at them if they are being cheeky and eating food right in front of them, in the spot they chose.
 
Hi! I have 3 chicks and they will be moving out in 2 weeks, they will be 8 weeks old by then! I have 2 hens. How can move the chicls in with them without any injuries?
8 weeks old is too old and big for the technique in this thread....
...and so you might want to start a new thread here to get some advice.

But here's some tips about......
Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together. Integration Basics:

It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better.
Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.
Good ideas for hiding places:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/a-cluttered-run.1323792/
 

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