Loving my Whitewash

Daisy8s

Songster
8 Years
Sep 12, 2011
467
153
138
Central Michigan
I built my coop two years ago and am pretty happy with it, but during the clean-out this spring I noticed some places had really accumulated a lot of manure and dust. It took a lot of scrubbing to get the wood surfaces of the nesting boxes and the perches back to their original state and I wanted it to be easier next time I cleaned.

I also have noticed my birds being rather adamant about dust-bathing and I've battled scaly leg mites on two of the birds so I wanted to do a better job of eliminating external parasites that can live in the crevices in the wood of nesting boxes, perches, etc.

So, I did a bit of research, made up a whitewash solution, applied it yesterday, and am already really pleased with the results. I didn't quite understand, before I did it, that whitewash is essentially a thin plaster. It completely seals the surface. I can see how this will protect the wood and also be antimicrobial.

It was pretty cheap--under $10 for a bag of hydrated lime and pennies for the salt, plus a few bucks for a disposable paint brush. This filled a 3 gallon bucket and covered four nesting boxes, and two 6x6 walls in two coats and I still had several inches leftover in the bucket.

You can look up a recipe by Googling "whitewash recipe". I recommend getting three or four different recipes to compare as there is quite a bit of variation. I chose the simplest method:

Slowly mix a bag of hydrated lime with water until you have a thick consistency, becoming firm as you stir. Do this in a well-ventilated area and wear a dust mask. Stir slowly to minimize the amount of fine dust kicked up from the lime. Let this mixture sit overnight--this is essential as it allows the lime to "slake" which is something about calcium dissolving into the water (I'm not gonna pretend to understand the chemistry here).

(I read a recipe from someone who skips this step and then warns of chemical burns from the lime. I accidentally got some of my whitewash on my skin several times but never experienced any chemical burn...not sure if that was because I did the slaking step, or was a coincidence. I just couldn't help notice that every recipe calls for this step and none of the others mention chemical burns except the lady who says she skips it.)

The next day, in a separate bucket mix one cup of table salt into two cups of water. Stir well to dissolve. Then, add the salt solution to the slaked lime. Stir slowly to mix--lime will be very thick and stiff. Repeat this step until your lime mixture is the consistency of pancake batter--easy to pour but more thick than watery. Don't add too much of the salt solution at any one time, add in small batches and stir thoroughly in between.

Some recipes call to add glue or whole-fat milk at this point to increase the "stickability"/longevity of the whitewash. I added a small bottle of white glue, don't know that it really did anything, though.

Now apply. You'll probably want to use a cheap paintbrush you can throw away. Also wear gloves, long-sleeves, and long pants to avoid getting the solution on your skin.

It goes on gray and dries white. Allow the first coat to dry thoroughly before putting on a second.

Warning: don't put whitewash in areas you'll be brushing up against as it tends to rub off onto clothing.

Anyone else do a whitewash? How does it work for you?
 
I very interresting... I hope I wasn't the only one out there that thought a white wash ment painting everything white... With paint... I had no idea it was a lime solution.

I was one of those, too! I think the term "wash" is misleading--makes it sound so thin.

That's why I posted this because I thought people might be interested in what it actually is and how it can be antimicrobial and antiparasitic.
 
Wow! Very interesting...thanks for passing on your research.
1f60a.png
1f60a.png
1f60a.png
 
One thing I forgot to add is that I did NOT put the whitewash onto the roosts. I just wasn't sure how the lime would affect the bird's feet and bellies as they roosted--especially with reading the one person's note about chemical burns. However, after seeing that I wasn't affected the first day, when I added some more whitewash (to a place I missed) the second day I was even more careless about getting it on my skin and truly didn't have any affects where it slathered onto my arm.

But, anyway, instead of whitewash, I sprayed the roosts with a good coating of Neem oil, let it absorb, and then added a second coating a few hours later. I focused on any cracks/crevices in the wood where tiny mites, etc. could be living.
 
I have been doing the white wash thing for years (same as my grand father before me). My grand father had 22 children and worked a family farm he made his own butter, soap, grew his own vegetables (basically a Mennonite in lots of respects). Grand father's philosophy was if you could walk you could work.

The youngest uncle (more my age) until he took a wife thought his name was "Fetch Wood". However that being said your recipe for whitewash is superior to mine.

Thanks for sharing. I was satisfied with my whitewash before however now I know it will perform even better (no salt in old recipe).

My grand father never paid no mind to chemical burns and what have you he had his sons saturate everything with white wash and change the litter in the nest boxes regularly. ( I am not sure how his birds reacted to this method as any birds that may have had issues always tasted good with dumplings.)

I saturate everything as well in May and never had any issues with chemical burns on my hens.

I am sure some people will disagree with my way of thinking.
It the chemical did not burn me over these years chances are it will only burn someone who is more sensitive. The only precaution I use when applying white wash is long pants and sleeved shirts.


Thanks again Daisy.
 
Last edited:
I oh-so wanted to whitewash the interior of my coop. Had my recipe and tools together and sent hubby out to get the hydrated lime. Well, the store gave him the wrong kind of lime. I didn't read the bag but wondered when I was mixing it as to why it wasn't white and it didn't seem as fine as I thought it would be.

Followed all the steps and then went to try to apply the stuff. Oh, heavens . . . it was like trying to paint with cement! Did two brush-strokes and then went back to that lime bag to see exactly what I was using. Arrgghhh!!!
barnie.gif


So, now I have about 45 lbs. of the WRONG type of lime. Sigh . . . I'll come back to this in the future, I'm sure, but next time I'm going to get the lime!
 
I'm assuming, when you say "wrong" type that you mean the Agricultural hydrated lime intended to amend the pH of the soil?

That's actually what I used. Yes, it went on gray and was pretty thick, but it dried bone white. And, I decided that I liked the thick plaster feel of it--felt like more of a durable barrier to parasites wanting to burrow into the wood.

In the morning it was thin enough to paint on but by evening (I had lots of interruptions) it was pretty thick, more like a thin wet cement. I could've added more of the salt water solution but I didn't bother.

Anyway, if you still have that stuff sitting around you might try just adding more of the salt water solution to thin it.

My understanding is that Agricultural lime is "wrong" because it has additives that make it thicker. I decided that was right for me as I liked the plaster. And, it did dry bright white.
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom