Medicated vs Non-Medicated Feed

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Did I already post this?

Source: http://metzerfarms.blogspot.com/2011/11/can-medicated-feed-be-used-for.html
"Have there been coccidiostats used in the past that were harmful to waterfowl? Probably and that is why the myth began. But those drugs are no longer allowed or no longer used in the United States.

What if you have the choice of medicated or non-medicated starter feed of equal nutritional value? My recommendation would be to use the non-medicated feed. There is no point in feeding medication when it is not needed.

HOWEVER, if the choice is nutritionally correct medicated starter feed (20%+ protein) or non-medicated feed that does not meet the nutritional needs of the ducklings and goslings, I would definitely recommend the nutritionally correct, medicated starter feed. Research shows the medication will not harm the waterfowl."
 
A bit on how medicated feed works. This has probably been covered earlier in this thread but I'll go through it.

Cocci is caused by a certain parasite. The problem is not that the parasite is present, that is actually a good thing because after two to three weeks of constant exposure the chicken develops an immunity to that specific strain. The problem comes when the numbers get out of hand. Part of the life cycle of that parasite involved a couple of days in wet conditions with manure present. That can be a wet brooder, coop, or run, maybe just around your waterer if it leaks, or that can be dirty water. Wet is usually associated with an outbreak. The chicken eats enough of those parasites when it drinks dirty water or pecks at wet ground so the numbers get out of control.

I always say to check the medicine in medicated feed. The vast majority of the time it's Amprolium but there are a few feeds that contain something else. If it's not Amprolium what I'm going to say does not apply.

The dosage of Amprolium in medicated feed does not kill all of the parasite. It interferes with the parasite reproducing so it reduces the numbers but it allows a few to live so the chicken can develop that immunity it needs without the numbers getting out of hand. That does not give you an excuse to have a wet brooder or dirty water, those can still cause problems. If you have a history of Cocci medicated feed can help, even if things are pretty dry.

Medicated feed can interfere with the vaccine taking effect if they have been vaccinated. That's a weakened strain to start with, the medicated feed may be enough to kill it out, even in that small dosage.

The medicated feed does not give them immunity to Cocci, that parasite has to be present before they develop immunity to it. Feeding them medicated feed will not hurt them, it just won't do any good if that bug is not present. A common mistake is for people to feed medicated feed to them when they are in the brooder but that parasite is not present. Then when the chicks go from the brooder to coop and run they stop feeding medicated feed and they chicks come down with Cocci. People wan to blame the medicated feed for that but the real problem is that it was not used properly.

I don't use medicated feed. I start feeding mine dirt from the run a couple of days after they go in the brooder. I keep the brooder dry and change the water regularly, at least every two days to make sure I interrupt the life cycle of that parasite. That also interrupts the life cycle of any mosquitoes breeding in that water.

Hope this helps you make an informed decision. In my opinion it does not hurt to feed it and if used correctly it might help.
 
You can keep their pen/waterer/feeder spotless and run around after them with a pooper scooper under their bottom and they can still get coccidiosis if you have a rainy period and they are on the ground. Some folks believe it's due to dirty environment and will insist that it's always *your* fault if they get cocci and that is simply not the case, though bad management doesn't help matters.
If you live in a dry place when they are growing out or it doesn't rain for days or weeks at a time like it often does in the soupy South, cocci may not happen, medicated feed or not.
But the fact remains that the oocysts are mutating and the small levels of amprolium in the feeds may just no longer be adequate to prevent cocci, even if the medicated feed is used properly. I do the same thing that Ridgerunner does, dirt pan in the brooder or where the broody hen is if she can't go outside with them right away so they get exposed to our soil almost immediately.
No matter which feed you choose, be observant. Don't think because they are on medicated feed that they will not contract cocci because they can! If you see lethargic chicks or bloody poop, treat with amprolium at the treatment level in Corid or other brand names or if you can't get that, try Sulmet, though I don't advise that as a first treatment because it is harder on their intestines than Corid. Also, offer some plain yogurt daily for awhile to soothe ravaged guts as well.
 
So medicated feed doesn't prevent cocci? everyone I know is telling me to start out my peachicks with medicated chick/game starter because of blackhead and cocci, but if it doesn't prevent it should I just use the corid? Or is medicated feed different for peas than chickens? Is there a natural alternative? I'm full of questions I'm sorry. lol
 
So medicated feed doesn't prevent cocci? everyone I know is telling me to start out my peachicks with medicated chick/game starter because of blackhead and cocci, but if it doesn't prevent it should I just use the corid? Or is medicated feed different for peas than chickens? Is there a natural alternative? I'm full of questions I'm sorry. lol
Medicated feed *might* help prevent some strains of coccidiosis, but it's no guarantee.

Only feeds medicated with nitarsone can *prevent* blackhead, and I don't think anyone makes it anymore. Note that feed medicated with nitarsone is toxic to waterfowl and dogs, so I would *not* suggest feeding it.

Coccidiosis can be a problem in peachicks, so you should definitely have a supply of amprolium on hand, but I don't think you *need* medicated feed. What you will have to learn is how to spot the early signs of illness and how to identify normal vs abnormal pea poop.

A healthy peachick will make daily weight gains, so another way to keep an eye on their health is to weigh them weekly. Any loss or lack proper gain means it's time to look very closely at them.

I have all kinds of weight charts, and pictures of normal vs. abnormal poop that I can share with you if you are interested.
 
Oh mylanta! That would be awesome if you could share those! I'm pretty green to peafowl, but I've been researching them. Should I go ahead and start them on Corid as a precaution? I haven't got them yet, but I want to make sure I've got everything I need for them.
Medicated feed *might* help prevent some strains of coccidiosis, but it's no guarantee.

Only feeds medicated with nitarsone can *prevent* blackhead, and I don't think anyone makes it anymore. Note that feed medicated with nitarsone is toxic to waterfowl and dogs, so I would *not* suggest feeding it.

Coccidiosis can be a problem in peachicks, so you should definitely have a supply of amprolium on hand, but I don't think you *need* medicated feed. What you will have to learn is how to spot the early signs of illness and how to identify normal vs abnormal pea poop.

A healthy peachick will make daily weight gains, so another way to keep an eye on their health is to weigh them weekly. Any loss or lack proper gain means it's time to look very closely at them.

I have all kinds of weight charts, and pictures of normal vs. abnormal poop that I can share with you if you are interested.
 
Oh mylanta! That would be awesome if you could share those! I'm pretty green to peafowl, but I've been researching them. Should I go ahead and start them on Corid as a precaution? I haven't got them yet, but I want to make sure I've got everything I need for them.
I don't give mine Corid unless they look off, nor do I feed a starter with amprolium.

What sort of feed has the breeder recommended?

Get yourself a scale and keep tack of their weights. I'll start a new thread with weight graphs and poo pictures.:D
 

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