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- Sep 16, 2016
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Very early (hours after my first posts), I did open the membranes when he became unable to move his beak because of shrinkage/dryness...most careful not to damage vessels as possible. I waited until he could not move, and noticed a duskiness in his beak, almost waiting too long. He continued to rest that way. At the point he was pushing out, he did not require assist, as the yolk was smaller, and not holding him in. For future newbies, the yolk sac looks like a huge flesh colored bubble, outside the abdomen, and the umbilical cord is attached to that, and to the shell before the goose comes out. Once loose from the shell, it is the stringy greenish thingy.
We know why all the issues. He's preemie. If geese hatch at 30 days, he hatched pipping externally at 26, and 27 laid in the 'bator half out. Probably, like infants, due to damage to the egg, and changes inside the shell it forced him to come on out. Today, he is eyes open, periodically, moving himself some around the 'bator, and still absorbing the last of the yolk.
I used so many suggestions! You guys...THANK YOU!
If this had been a chick, it never would have made it. I'm not sure how this little one did. But with the cautions and the oils (suggested over water), you helped me fight the well known "knee jerk" reaction to intervene too soon, and I seriously appreciate it.
,
You could use coconut oil, olive oil or vaseline on the membrane to keep it moist. Water ends up dehydrating it, though if it's been exposed to air, no matter how high the humidity it does start to shrink and toughen. Your little one will need help but as venymae said you can't do anything until the veins have receeded. And if he looks like he's gasping and 'smacking his lips' (beak) then he's still absorbing the yolk. You'll just have to keep an eye on him and step in when you feel the time is right. It's a difficult judgement call to make but he'll definitely need help by the sounds of that membrane.I've got my fingers crossed for you!
I used coconut oil per siggestions, for membranes, and softening the goo-glue. He still needed help from the leathery membranes. He was left in the shell bottom half to absorb huge yolk., and pushed out when that was partially used. I wrapped the yolk sac in moist paper towel, placed him on a soft dish towel to protect the sac. He is awake this morning, clumsily getting around. These are from last night at 1am.
Very early (hours after my first posts), I did open the membranes when he became unable to move his beak because of shrinkage/dryness...most careful not to damage vessels as possible. I waited until he could not move, and noticed a duskiness in his beak, almost waiting too long. He continued to rest that way. At the point he was pushing out, he did not require assist, as the yolk was smaller, and not holding him in. For future newbies, the yolk sac looks like a huge flesh colored bubble, outside the abdomen, and the umbilical cord is attached to that, and to the shell before the goose comes out. Once loose from the shell, it is the stringy greenish thingy.
We know why all the issues. He's preemie. If geese hatch at 30 days, he hatched pipping externally at 26, and 27 laid in the 'bator half out. Probably, like infants, due to damage to the egg, and changes inside the shell it forced him to come on out. Today, he is eyes open, periodically, moving himself some around the 'bator, and still absorbing the last of the yolk.
I used so many suggestions! You guys...THANK YOU!
If this had been a chick, it never would have made it. I'm not sure how this little one did. But with the cautions and the oils (suggested over water), you helped me fight the well known "knee jerk" reaction to intervene too soon, and I seriously appreciate it.
,
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I'm so glad the little one has made it. 
