Misbehaving Silkie Rooster

[MarshyRooster]

I have a Silkie Rooster called Marshmallow (my username is MarshyRooster) and he's a little bit of a weirdo. I thought that Silkies were supposed to be so sweet and gentle and Marshy is a blazing ball of fury. He fights with the hens, with Max, even with the humans. He keeps needing to have vacations to a separate coop. When he was littler, he wasn't a problem but now he's really aggressive. Was his temperament caused by being raised alone? The other two died immediately. I'm not sure how to help him. I just know I won't get rid of him in any way. Should I get him some pullets, or is there a better solution? Thanks!

 

[ForTheLoveOfSilkies]

I have a Silkie Rooster called Marshmallow (my username is MarshyRooster) and he's a little bit of a weirdo. I thought that Silkies were supposed to be so sweet and gentle and Marshy is a blazing ball of fury. He fights with the hens, with Max, even with the humans. He keeps needing to have vacations to a separate coop. When he was littler, he wasn't a problem but now he's really aggressive. Was his temperament caused by being raised alone? The other two died immediately. I'm not sure how to help him. I just know I won't get rid of him in any way. Should I get him some pullets, or is there a better solution? Thanks!

All chicken breeds can have friendly and aggressive behaviour, Silkie or not. Silkies are more known to be docile but some are not and they need to be delt with so nobody gets hurt. You said he fights with humans too, this can't be taken lightly and you will have to deal with him unfortunately he should be culled. You wouldn't want to use him for breeding or his offspring may continue this bad behaviour too.
He would be stressing out your hens if he is attacking them so that is not nice for them either.

 

[sourland]

Who is Max ? If he is fighting the hens, he would likely do the same to pullets. He may be human imprinted and not even know that he is a chicken. Solitary existence may be his lot in life.

 

[MarshyRooster]

Who is Max ? If he is fighting the hens, he would likely do the same to pullets. He may be human imprinted and not even know that he is a chicken. Solitary existence may be his lot in life.

Max is a rooster that Marshy sometimes fights with. Not serious rooster fighting, but they annoy each other quite a bit. Marshy is the one who fights with the hens. But none of them are Silkies, so I'm wondering if silkie pullets would help.

 

[MarshyRooster]

He does attack humans, but the thing is he doesn't actually hurt them. But yes, he does bother the hens quite a bit. I think maybe I should separate him, because I can't cull any of my birds, especially not Marshy. For one thing, my sister totally loves him, for another, I do too, and for a third, I raised him very, very carefully, and I'd never be willing to cull him after that. Should I separate him, or get him pullets (but I don't want this bad behavior to appear in his offspring) or do something else?

 

[ForTheLoveOfSilkies]

He does attack humans, but the thing is he doesn't actually hurt them. But yes, he does bother the hens quite a bit. I think maybe I should separate him, because I can't cull any of my birds, especially not Marshy. For one thing, my sister totally loves him, for another, I do too, and for a third, I raised him very, very carefully, and I'd never be willing to cull him after that. Should I separate him, or get him pullets (but I don't want this bad behavior to appear in his offspring) or do something else?

How old is he? .. if you want to keep him then seperate him. If he is young then maybe isolation for a while will calm his hormones and try again with him when he's maybe over 2 years old.. but if he's already over 2 years old then not much hope for him to become less aggressive I think.

Also, not your fault he's aggressive. lots of roosters who are raised by hand end up aggressive and some not, it's just how the rooster is.
Some other people on here might be able to offer tips and tricks for helping to tame his aggressive behaviour.

If he's attacking humans, but not hurting them now, he may in the future, so don't be complacent.

 

[MarshyRooster]

Marshmallow is definitely less than 2 years. I don't even think he's a year old yet. I think I'll try the seperating for a while. Thank you for the advice about his attacking humans. Although I probably should've mentioned that he isn't completely unreasonable. I give him grass every time I see him, and he's a little bit calmer around me. I will definitely see if anyone else has any other tips for his behavior. Also, I have a question about the separation... will he be okay if we just keep him in his own coop? We've done that a few times and as long as we let him out sometimes and give him fresh food and water all the time he seems content. I'm actually starting to wonder if he's just not social. So... could he just be kept in his own coop?

 

[Amandarob5]

My silkie rooster was raised with a female silkie and he is aggressive to he will try and attack me through the coop wire. He was raised with tons of love just like my female . I have never had good luck with a rooster no matter what breed . I hate rehoming him but I may have to before he does damage to my other silkie. I have met very sweet and loving silkie roosters I guess I just didn’t get that lucky. If you do find a way to tame him I would love to know how . I am a forever pet owner I don’t just get rid of a pet for misbehaving but he is sooo aggressive I don’t know what else to do.

 

[Amandarob5]

I just read this article I am going to try this.

I'm going to give you a clue on "rooster speak"....holding him down doesn't mean anything to him. If you'll watch how roosters interact between dominant ones and subordinate ones, there is rarely any, if ever, holding a bird down for a long time when there is an altercation. There is very quick flogging, gripping by the back of the head and flinging him away or getting him down and giving some savage pecking to the back of the head or neck. No holding him down and nothing else. That's a rooster on a hen maneuver, not rooster on rooster.

Because your rooster is attacking you, you are the subordinate in this picture. You are getting dominated by your bird simply because you are walking where a subordinate isn't supposed to be walking when a dominant is in the area. What you never see is a dominant rooster getting attacked by a subordinate rooster unless there is going to be a definite shift in power, at which time the sub will challenge the dom and win...or lose. So far you are losing and not even challenging.

If you want to win this battle, you must go on the offensive, not the defensive. He who attacks first, and is still claiming the area when the other guy leaves it, is the winner. Some people never have to go on the offensive because their movements in the coop are so decisive that they move and act like a dominant and a 2 ft. rooster is smart enough to recognize a dominant attitude and behavior...which is likely why he's never attacked your husband. Most men move more decisively than do women and children and they rarely step around a bird, but walk through them.

Carrying him around also doesn't mean anything to him...it just doesn't translate at all. His environment is that coop and run floor and that's where you need to speak to him, in a language he understands. Because they are quick on their feet and can evade you, you need a training tool like a long, limber, supple rod of some kind...cutting a nice switch from a shrub or tree that will lengthen your reach by 5 ft. really helps in this. Don't use a rake or broom because they are too clumsy and stiff and can put the hurts on the guy when you don't really mean to.

When you enter your coop, walk with decisive movements and walk directly towards your rooster. Move him away from the feeder and the rest of the flock and keep a slow, determined pressure on him until he leaves the coop. The stick will help you guide him. Then...wait patiently while he gets his bird mind around what just happened. He will try to come back in the coop...let him. When he gets a good bit into that coop, take your switch and give him a good smack on the fluffy feathers under his tail if you can aim it well. If you cannot, just smack the floor near him very hard and fast until he hops and runs and keep at it until he leaves the coop once again. Repeat this process until he is too wary to come back in the coop.

Feed your hens. When he tries to come to the feeder, you "attack" him with the switch...smack the wall by the pop door just as he tries to enter. If he makes it inside, pursue him with the stick either smacking the floor or tapping him on the back or the head until he leaves in a hurry. Make him stay outside while you sit there and enjoy watching your hens eat. Use the stick to keep him from the flock..just him. Don't worry about the hens running and getting excited when this is happening...they will get over it. This is for the future of your flock and your management of it.

When the hens have had a good tucker....leave the coop and let him come back in. Go out later and walk through that flock and use your legs to scatter birds if they get in your way...top roosters do not step to one side for any other bird in the flock. You shouldn't either. Take your stick and startle him with a smack on the floor next to him when he is least expecting it...make that bird jump and RUN. Make him so nervous around you that he is always looking over his shoulder and trying to get out of your way. THAT'S how he needs to be from now on in your lives together. Forget about pets or cuddles...this is a language and behavior he understands. You can hand feed him and such later...right now you need to establish that when you move, he moves...away. When you turn your back, he doesn't move towards you...ever.

Then test him...take your stick along, move around in the coop, bend over with your back turned to him, feed, water, etc....but keep one eye on that rooster. If he even makes one tiny step in your direction or in your "zone", go on the attack and run him clear on out of the coop. Then keep him out while everyone else is eating.

THAT'S how a dominant rooster treats a subordinate. They don't let them crow, mate or even eat in their space. If the subordinate knows his place and watches over his shoulder a lot, he may get to come and eat while the other rooster is at the feeder...but he doesn't ever relax if he knows what is good for him. At any given time the dominant will run him off of that feed and he knows it, so he eats with one eye toward the door. If he feels the need to crow, it's not usually where the dom can reach him...maybe across the yard.

If your rooster crows while you are there, move towards him and keep on the pressure until he stops. He doesn't get to crow while you are there. He can crow later...not while you are there.

It all sounds time consuming but it really isn't...shouldn't take more than minutes for each lesson and you can learn a lot as you go along. And it can be fun if you venture into it with the right attitude....this is rooster training that really works if you do it correctly. This can work on strange roosters, multiple roosters and even old roosters...they can all learn. You rule the coop...now act like it. Carrying is for babies...you have a full grown rooster on your hands, not a baby.

 

[ForTheLoveOfSilkies]

I just read this article I am going to try this.

I'm going to give you a clue on "rooster speak"....holding him down doesn't mean anything to him. If you'll watch how roosters interact between dominant ones and subordinate ones, there is rarely any, if ever, holding a bird down for a long time when there is an altercation. There is very quick flogging, gripping by the back of the head and flinging him away or getting him down and giving some savage pecking to the back of the head or neck. No holding him down and nothing else. That's a rooster on a hen maneuver, not rooster on rooster.

Because your rooster is attacking you, you are the subordinate in this picture. You are getting dominated by your bird simply because you are walking where a subordinate isn't supposed to be walking when a dominant is in the area. What you never see is a dominant rooster getting attacked by a subordinate rooster unless there is going to be a definite shift in power, at which time the sub will challenge the dom and win...or lose. So far you are losing and not even challenging.

If you want to win this battle, you must go on the offensive, not the defensive. He who attacks first, and is still claiming the area when the other guy leaves it, is the winner. Some people never have to go on the offensive because their movements in the coop are so decisive that they move and act like a dominant and a 2 ft. rooster is smart enough to recognize a dominant attitude and behavior...which is likely why he's never attacked your husband. Most men move more decisively than do women and children and they rarely step around a bird, but walk through them.

Carrying him around also doesn't mean anything to him...it just doesn't translate at all. His environment is that coop and run floor and that's where you need to speak to him, in a language he understands. Because they are quick on their feet and can evade you, you need a training tool like a long, limber, supple rod of some kind...cutting a nice switch from a shrub or tree that will lengthen your reach by 5 ft. really helps in this. Don't use a rake or broom because they are too clumsy and stiff and can put the hurts on the guy when you don't really mean to.

When you enter your coop, walk with decisive movements and walk directly towards your rooster. Move him away from the feeder and the rest of the flock and keep a slow, determined pressure on him until he leaves the coop. The stick will help you guide him. Then...wait patiently while he gets his bird mind around what just happened. He will try to come back in the coop...let him. When he gets a good bit into that coop, take your switch and give him a good smack on the fluffy feathers under his tail if you can aim it well. If you cannot, just smack the floor near him very hard and fast until he hops and runs and keep at it until he leaves the coop once again. Repeat this process until he is too wary to come back in the coop.

Feed your hens. When he tries to come to the feeder, you "attack" him with the switch...smack the wall by the pop door just as he tries to enter. If he makes it inside, pursue him with the stick either smacking the floor or tapping him on the back or the head until he leaves in a hurry. Make him stay outside while you sit there and enjoy watching your hens eat. Use the stick to keep him from the flock..just him. Don't worry about the hens running and getting excited when this is happening...they will get over it. This is for the future of your flock and your management of it.

When the hens have had a good tucker....leave the coop and let him come back in. Go out later and walk through that flock and use your legs to scatter birds if they get in your way...top roosters do not step to one side for any other bird in the flock. You shouldn't either. Take your stick and startle him with a smack on the floor next to him when he is least expecting it...make that bird jump and RUN. Make him so nervous around you that he is always looking over his shoulder and trying to get out of your way. THAT'S how he needs to be from now on in your lives together. Forget about pets or cuddles...this is a language and behavior he understands. You can hand feed him and such later...right now you need to establish that when you move, he moves...away. When you turn your back, he doesn't move towards you...ever.

Then test him...take your stick along, move around in the coop, bend over with your back turned to him, feed, water, etc....but keep one eye on that rooster. If he even makes one tiny step in your direction or in your "zone", go on the attack and run him clear on out of the coop. Then keep him out while everyone else is eating.

THAT'S how a dominant rooster treats a subordinate. They don't let them crow, mate or even eat in their space. If the subordinate knows his place and watches over his shoulder a lot, he may get to come and eat while the other rooster is at the feeder...but he doesn't ever relax if he knows what is good for him. At any given time the dominant will run him off of that feed and he knows it, so he eats with one eye toward the door. If he feels the need to crow, it's not usually where the dom can reach him...maybe across the yard.

If your rooster crows while you are there, move towards him and keep on the pressure until he stops. He doesn't get to crow while you are there. He can crow later...not while you are there.

It all sounds time consuming but it really isn't...shouldn't take more than minutes for each lesson and you can learn a lot as you go along. And it can be fun if you venture into it with the right attitude....this is rooster training that really works if you do it correctly. This can work on strange roosters, multiple roosters and even old roosters...they can all learn. You rule the coop...now act like it. Carrying is for babies...you have a full grown rooster on your hands, not a baby.

I don't know if I agree with some things in that article.. I'm sure there are many different opinions and ways to handle an aggressive rooster. I think most would just get rid of it.
If you are going to try to tame him yourself then make sure you are wearing appropriate clothing for your own protection in case he does attack you. And if taming doesn't work, you probably will have to get rid of him unfortunately -You don't want yourself or anyone else or your hen to get hurt.
Silkies are known for a docile temperament but unfortunately you can get more aggressive ones too.

You can start a new thread with your own rooster problems so people can follow on with your issue rather then the starter of this thread.

Good luck! Let us know how you go!