Modified hoop coop idea, been done?

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Ruralhideaway

Crowing
6 Years
Sep 21, 2017
2,801
4,659
406
Upstate NY
Hey all. I think I need more space. I have 200 or so square feet under a roof as coop and run. 19 birds. That's adequate as a coop at about 10 sq ft per bird but shorts them on run space by the recommended numbers.

My coop is a tall enclosed shed attached to my barn. I have a big empty stall in the barn adjacent I could expand into (likely a real big pain to predator proof). Or I could add run space outdoors.

I think I'd rather add run outside so they have some sun. I would like to have roofing over part of the addition, possibly skylight style clear panels. Then maybe I could steal a bit of space for starting plants in the spring.

This will be attached to the barn wall also. The cattle panel hoop coops are appealing for their economy and ease of building. I think I could put the clear flexible roofing panels up for partial roofing. My thought is to anchor the panels maybe 7 feet up on the barn wall, then bend and attach to a ground level frame about 9 feet out. Like a half hoop if that makes sense. If the panels bent uniformly I would have a nice partially covered run with zero framing, just a few planks(I have dimensional 4x6s) on the ground. Anyone know what shape they would want to take in this configuration? Would they still be strong for snow load like they are in a full hoop?

Thanks for any opinions or experience.
 
Would they still be strong for snow load like they are in a full hoop?
That was the question first in my mind, so glad you are thinking of it.

Even a full hoop, 8' wide at bottom, can bow under snow.
I watched it happen last winter with a tarped half finished hoop coop made from 2 cattle panels, could have propped it up if it had been permanently located and tied to ground, but removed snow instead as it was/is sitting on a trailer.
The type of panel can make a huge difference.
Tho all livestock panels are made from the same sized rod, the height of panel and the spacing and quantity of rods can differ quite a bit. I've worked with both hog panels(34") and cattle panels(50"), the hog panels are much stiffer/stronger.

I would suggest getting a panel and playing with it's position/configuration and see how it 'feels'. You can always plan on keeping snow raked off and having some prop sticks to help hold it up in winter. I have to use a couple prop sticks on the 14ga 2x4 mesh roof on my run. Pretty easy to jam an 8' long 2x2 between ground and mesh, I cut a groove on the ends to hold mesh, works a charm and are removed in summer. Can provide you a good nights sleep when you get those wet, heavy overnight snowfalls.

As far as your space is concerned, space in coop and run is different, and depending on how sheltered your run is it may allow some 'squeezing' in the coop, provided you have adequate roost length and ventilation in the coop for those long winter nights.
 
How big an area are you planning on? I've built CP green house and CP hoop coop. Even with the CP bent in the typical configuration with 2 panels to build an 8 x 8, using a wood base frame, with the bottom of the panels stapled to the inside of the base frame, a center beam and end wall construction are required for stability and to manage snow load. Without a center ridge and end wall framing, a snow load would flatten the hoop coop eventually. Interior framing would be even more important with the structure you are envisioning. Are you planning this under the eave side of the barn, or on a gable end? You're gonna have issues with snow load, and wind. I would suggest that you get a single panel, and play around with it. See what your arc would look like. When you are satisfied with the arc and foot print, then, you can figure out your interior framing. Your proposal absolutely would not work if you built it on the eave side of the barn, b/c of snow and ice coming down from the barn roof.
 
My current set up is a fully wood enclosed coop(25 feet of roosts) with the attached covered run now enclosed with clear roofing panel walls like in the pic below. Open wire in the eaves. It's very airy in the run, just shy of drafty as air gets in around the edges of the panels. No one wants to go in in any weather thus far, we've been down to 19 and windy.

Using prop boards would be easy enough it sounds like. Although i have a hard time getting my head around that in a half hoop set up. There won't be a "peak" to put them into. At least i don't think there will unless it arcs differently than i envision. Only a test will answer that unless someone pops up who did this. Me and my ideas.

It's the gable side so at least that's ok. I would do between 12 and 16 feet in length x well... again somewhat depends on how they want to arc, ideally 9 wide 7 high. End walls, one would be attached to the existing run that is a fully framed structure, the opposite end I would need to frame for a door anyway.

Even with some support needed I think this would be the cheapest way to build.

Occurs to me to have short 4x4 posts in the ground at the ends of each panel, maybe 3ft high, with panels attached straight for that bottom 3 feet to provide shape and structure. Or, maybe I'm really out of my depth there.
 
Sorry my internet is slow tonight my upload must have failed.
This isn't my coop, but same type panels.
On the new addition I would use them on part of it.
Thank you! An idea of where I'd need to brace would be handy.


Screenshot_20171204-193918.png
 
I don't have the outside pics that show things. I can get some tomorrow. End wall is 10 wide 8 high to a level header then sloped roof above. 12 inch high board to hold in bedding across bottom with door mounted above it. Vertical framing for the door from each end post about 30 inches in. Would have to verify that measurement though.
 

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