My run might be too tall.

[Lulu-vt]

TLDR: how easy would it be to cut down the front posts to make the run shorter?

I’m heading out of town and I’ve been seriously busting my butt getting a safe run for my ladies and gent. I’m not amazing at visualizing measurements. That being said…I created a plan. I dug deep holes (so very hard to dig 3’+) but I think I my run should be shorter. Just for appearance. I put 10ft 4x4’s into a 3ft hole in the front and 8ft in the back.

I’ve attached a picture of our view from the deck. Granted it’s unpainted currently and very bright against our natural backdrop.

But honestly, wouldn’t it look better if the front poles were more in line with the roof coop? The bottom of the front of the coop is only 5 feet so that’s too short. I thought it would be awkward to attach a taller run to the coop because of the weird roof line. (When there is one). I was thinking it would be nice to have headroom to walk. Well…a pro basketball player wouldn’t have trouble walking in this coop!!

They are cemented in. I have attached a roof yet, just aviary netting. Do you think it’s worth the extra work to take down the top boards, the hardware cloth and saw down those posts?

I’ve done this 100% solo (coop as wee) so it’s been a lot of work. My husband travels for work and all my kids just left for college. It’s my first empty nest project!!! No one in my family has seen it yet. I was realizing that it may be too big as I was taking a picture to share on our family group chat.

Sorry - rambling. I’ve been alone for too long.

 

[lagrange chicks]

If it is un-sightly to you then cut it down, to me if its predator proof and complete I would leave as is. I wish my run was taller, made it 6' and I am 6'1" and scrape my head at times.

 

[DobieLover]

No. Don't shorten the posts. But I would cut off the sections protruding over the tops of the beams.

You are supposed to put the beams on top of the posts, not nailed or screwed to the sides of them. Because you did that, I would cut some scrap 2x4s and screw those to the post directly under the beams using 5" long screws for added support.

And there is no way it's too big!

I would run bird-mouth cut rafters on the beams at 2' on center then run some 1x3 purlins 2' OC from the top down and install either metal or polycarbonate roofing.

 

[Blue is my chicken]

Well I love it, I like being able to walk in a pen (with head room), I wouldn't make it shorter but that is my opinion
Love your chicken house

 

[Lulu-vt]

If it is un-sightly to you then cut it down, to me if its predator proof and complete I would leave as is. I wish my run was taller, made it 6' and I am 6'1" and scrape my head at times.

Ugh. That’s awful. Mine is currently 8ft-ish feet on the front side sloping to 6ft at the rear.
I just realized that it would be easy to potentially hack down those posts with a chain saw instead of one of my more precise pieces of machinery.

 

[Lulu-vt]

No. Don't shorten the posts. But I would cut off the sections protruding over the tops of the beams.

You are supposed to put the beams on top of the posts, not nailed or screwed to the sides of them. Because you did that, I would cut some scrap 2x4s and screw those to the post directly under the beams using 5" long screws for added support.

And there is no way it's too big!

I would run bird-mouth cut rafters on the beams at 2' on center then run some 1x3 purlins 2' OC from the top down and install either metal or polycarbonate roofing.

Hmm. Really? Shoot. Well, if I cut it down, then I can do it the right way!! So horizontal beams on top of posts laying down? They are 2x6’s so the 6” side would be flat on top of the 4x4’s?
When I’m back from my trip I am putting in a real roof with braces that run roof East to west. Those I will have on top. Oh- but they will be supported only the side posts which are held in my nails. Gotcha.
Oh, and I’m not done. All the sticking out bits will be trimmed. It’s still a work in progress.

 

[Ted Brown]

Normally support boards are placed vertically on top of posts (ie the 2" side sits on the 4x4s), often they are doubled to produce a 4x6 beam.

Using them flat provides 2" of depth and can break with weight loads on the "roof".

 

[Lulu-vt]

I’ll fix it. I had to build a run in a few days because I’m going out of town. Thankfully no roof yet. I’m glad I know so I can do it right when the time comes.

 

[Sefirothe]

You can leave it like it is and still run your rafters crossways instead of front to back and have them on top of the boards you have now. Might need some extra bracing like DobieLover said. And additional support across the middle.

This is how we did our roof, the 2x4 rafters act as the purlins for the metal roof also:

 

[perkolator]

^sorry but I would not follow that advice at all. That design is like yours, being supported only by fasteners not designed for shear loads. But then they’ve added even more weight on top with more wood and roof. That’s a potentially dangerous setup in situations like snow loads.



To avoid relocating the side-attached beams like that, to the top of the posts, you can get by with sistering a 2x4 to the post, underneath the horizontal 2x6. It’s like a Trimmer and Jack/King Stud in doorway/window framing.

To OP, since you skinned the structure already in HC, I’d consider sandwiching the hardware cloth in between.

Good luck!