Okies in the BYC The Original

[luv2bmemaw2]

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I absolutely love the heaters. The only problem is those big ole Buff orp roos want to roost on the bucket and have turned them over. I told my husband to wire the bucket to the wire...and a couple of them slid off of the heater. I think I'll get some of that tape that is rough like sandpaper and put it on the lids to stop the sliding. Got any better ideas?

I am using the 1 gal plastic water & haven't had any trouble but thought if I did I would just put that foamy shelf lining stuff between them. You are using buckets of water?

In some of the pens we use the 2 gal. white buckets with handles cause we already had them. Those dumb roos like sit on them and smart off at the other roos...LOL In the other pens we are using those small rubber water bowls. They stay pretty well. Part of the problem is the snow is so hard we can't get them as level as they should be and if the chickens get excited about feeding time the knock them off the heater. Just some little problems to work out.

 

[Sooner]

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No fair you just got here!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Donna I will let P&B explain NPIP to you. As for me we need it when we go to shows.

 

[muesky]

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The second and fourth Saturday of each month there is a poultry auction just south of town. It has always been pretty good, not sure how good it will be if it is really cold but they run a pretty auction.

 

[faerielady]

Ok, J managed to find 2 pairs of jeans under his budgeted allotment, so we have gas $ for travel to Blanchard. So we'll be there... kids in tow. Of course, he'll be the bald Marine guy who will be looking at me like I'm insane and need to be committed.

 

[poultryand bees]

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When your flock is NPIP tested, the Department of Agriculture will send someone out to test all of your birds. They have federal funding for testing for Avian flu (throat swab) so while they are there they go ahead and do the NPIP testing and you just pay for the NPIP certificate, which I think is $10 the first year and $5 every year thereafter. They do a blood test on your entire flock that is over 4 months old, if you have less than 300 birds. If you have more than 300 birds (I think that is the right number) they only test a percentage of the birds. The test is for typhoid and pullorum, which includes salmonella.

If you have a NPIP certified flock, you agree not to bring in any birds that have not been NPIP tested or to keep any such birds isolated until you get them NPIP tested. The advantage, from my viewpoint, is that if you have pullorum/salmonella in your flock they don't lay as well as disease free birds. Also, if there are any issues regarding Avian flu - you have a certificate that shows your flock has been tested and is clean as of xyz date. The downside is that if any of your birds test positive for typhoid or pullorum, the tester is required to confiscate the bird for post mortem testing, which identifies with more specificity what disease the bird had. You then have to have your birds tested every 21 days until you have had two tests with no positive results and your flock is quarantined in the meantime, so you are not allowed to sell birds off your property until the quarantine is lifted.

I have been in the NPIP program for 3 years and am willing to pay more for a bird that comes from a NPIP flock. To me, it is just an extra step toward keeping your flock healthy. Also, if you want to show your birds, they have to have a certificate that the bird(s) have been tested prior to the show. A test on an individual bird is good for about 3 months. A NPIP certificate for your flock is good for 12 months.

 

[poultryand bees]

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I am using the 1 gal plastic water & haven't had any trouble but thought if I did I would just put that foamy shelf lining stuff between them. You are using buckets of water?

In some of the pens we use the 2 gal. white buckets with handles cause we already had them. Those dumb roos like sit on them and smart off at the other roos...LOL In the other pens we are using those small rubber water bowls. They stay pretty well. Part of the problem is the snow is so hard we can't get them as level as they should be and if the chickens get excited about feeding time the knock them off the heater. Just some little problems to work out.

so the heaters will keep the rubber bowls from freezing? I use rubber bowls but thought they would be too well insulated to transfer the heat to the water in them.

 

[quenston]

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When your flock is NPIP tested, the Department of Agriculture will send someone out to test all of your birds. They have federal funding for testing for Avian flu (throat swab) so while they are there they go ahead and do the NPIP testing and you just pay for the NPIP certificate, which I think is $10 the first year and $5 every year thereafter. They do a blood test on your entire flock that is over 4 months old, if you have less than 300 birds. If you have more than 300 birds (I think that is the right number) they only test a percentage of the birds. The test is for typhoid and pullorum, which includes salmonella.

If you have a NPIP certified flock, you agree not to bring in any birds that have not been NPIP tested or to keep any such birds isolated until you get them NPIP tested. The advantage, from my viewpoint, is that if you have pullorum/salmonella in your flock they don't lay as well as disease free birds. Also, if there are any issues regarding Avian flu - you have a certificate that shows your flock has been tested and is clean as of xyz date. The downside is that if any of your birds test positive for typhoid or pullorum, the tester is required to confiscate the bird for post mortem testing, which identifies with more specificity what disease the bird had. You then have to have your birds tested every 21 days until you have had two tests with no positive results and your flock is quarantined in the meantime, so you are not allowed to sell birds off your property until the quarantine is lifted.

I have been in the NPIP program for 3 years and am willing to pay more for a bird that comes from a NPIP flock. To me, it is just an extra step toward keeping your flock healthy. Also, if you want to show your birds, they have to have a certificate that the bird(s) have been tested prior to the show. A test on an individual bird is good for about 3 months. A NPIP certificate for your flock is good for 12 months.

I am in agreement with you since I have gotten my birds tested I refuse to buy a bird that has not been NPIP tested, the first time fee is $5 and that to me is a great deal, considering if you dont use the state and have a individual test it cost more by far.

 

[luv2bmemaw2]

So, how in the world do you all keep up with who has been tested with going to these auctions and getting birds from other people? Seems like a nightmare to me. So I get my tested and then a few weeks later I get some new birds. Do I then have to call them to come test again? Doesn't make sense.

 

[luv2bmemaw2]

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In some of the pens we use the 2 gal. white buckets with handles cause we already had them. Those dumb roos like sit on them and smart off at the other roos...LOL In the other pens we are using those small rubber water bowls. They stay pretty well. Part of the problem is the snow is so hard we can't get them as level as they should be and if the chickens get excited about feeding time the knock them off the heater. Just some little problems to work out.

so the heaters will keep the rubber bowls from freezing? I use rubber bowls but thought they would be too well insulated to transfer the heat to the water in them.

Marybeth...I even have some of the biggest rubber bowls sitting on a smaller tin and it kept it perfectly thawed. They work wonderful.

 

[poultryand bees]

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Just sit at the table in the back with those of us who are mainly there to visit and we will keep him entertained. Of course, if you actually want to bid on something, you may want to move away from the table so you can see and hear better.