Opinion on coop design from those with more experience than I

[IamRainey]

I think it's a very nice start but I have to echo some of the concern about predators and rodents.

Do I see voids along the top of the run that rodents could crawl through? I'd be worried that a small determined raccoon could get through there too. Their skeltons are far smaller than their bulk suggests. I've seen a mama carry a baby through a 4" hole! Close them securely ASAP!

Stapled hardware cloth makes me nervous. I added fir strips over all my uprights to protect the hardware cloth connections. If you don't want to do that I'd reinforce it with screws and washers between the staples.

Does your hardware cloth (you've already chosen the right stuff!) go down into the ground at least 12" to prevent entry via digging? If not you can rake out that gravel and make a perimeter of heavy 12" concrete pavers to create horizontal digging protection. Especially important if that rumor of a coyote is true. ...and it likely is -- their range now includes most of the contiguous US.

I'd make sure all the latches on your entry points can take a carabiner clip for extra protection against nimble raccoon claws.

Your feed needs better protection. Rodents could chew through the plastic overnight. Raccoons aren't even slowed down by bungee cords. They view them as merely the sport that precedes the feast.

For your own convenience -- if there's a next time -- I'd have the door to your run and the access to your coop tall enough to step through without hunching.

 

[trumpeting_angel]

Just to be sure I make the correct notes: 1/2 inch hardware wire is the right kind to get? Not 1/4 inch like he says?

Thank you again

Yes, 1/2 inch. Apparently 1/4 inch is more lightweight and can easily be torn by predators.

Do take note of @jthornton ’s and @Wee Farmer Sarah ‘s comments (ETA: and the others)! I didn’t see all the details in the video, but their comments are right on target.

 

[jthornton]

Do I see voids along the top of the run that rodents could crawl through? I'd be worried that a small determined raccoon could get through there too. Their skeltons are far smaller than their bulk suggests. I've seen a mama carry a baby through a 4" hole! Close them securely ASAP!

The top is covered in HC and then the rafters and roof is on top of that. Kind of a waste of HC but maybe easier to install the HC over the top then put the roof on dunno.

JT

 

[SurferchickinSB]

Hello,

Would anyone be able to weigh in with their opinion on this coop?

Video:

Plans: http://www.thegardencoop.com/chicken-coop-plans.html

I’m in Colorado, completely new to the world of chicken keeping, looking to find plans for a coop build for 3 chickens- I want to start small and increase work load slowly.

Thank you in advance.

It’s just OK. I would probably make the run bigger unless you are going to free range. Looks kind of small for three chickens to stay in there all the time. I don’t like how the entrance to the coop
is underneath, it would be better if the entrance was on a side wall. Then if you ever want to install a auto coop door it would work better because you wouldn’t be able to put one on the floor of the coop, maybe you could? The auto coop doors just make life so much easier.

 

[IamRainey]

Yes, 1/2 inch. Apparently 1/4 inch is more lightweight and can easily be torn by predators.

Do take note of @jthornton ’s and @Wee Farmer Sarah ‘s comments (ETA: and the others)! I didn’t see all the details in the video, but their comments are right on target.

1/2" or 1/4", it still comes in different gauges. Always get the heaviest one you can find.

Meanwhile, what the OP used looked substantial to me so I wouldn't worry him on that account.

 

[BokerTov]

Have you looked at the threads on coop construction on this site?

I have, that's where I learned about this company and was impressed by how detailed their instructions were. Someone on BYC made it and show pics of how it was outlined and I thought I might actually be able to pull this off.

 

[BokerTov]

It’s just OK. I would probably make the run bigger unless you are going to free range. Looks kind of small for three chickens to stay in there all the time. I don’t like how the entrance to the coop
is underneath, it would be better if the entrance was on a side wall. Then if you ever want to install a auto coop door it would work better because you wouldn’t be able to put one on the floor of the coop, maybe you could? The auto coop doors just make life so much easier.

That makes sense, thank you.

 

[BokerTov]

If I was building a coop and run that size I would simply build a rectangular box with the roost area covered to block the wind and HC the rest. I would not put a floor like that video show but rather just have that end a walk in area. Much easier to clean and do maintenance. And all the things you mentioned above. In the winter you may need to cover the HC with plastic to block the wind. You could put the nest box under the roost and use the top with some Sweet PDZ or similar for a poop tray. If you don't have bears metal garbage cans are secure enough to store feed.

JT

Okay, cool. Thank you for your help. I'll annotate all these bits of info into my files for when the time comes.

I appreciate your help tremendously.

 

[Maugwa]

i'm in Wyoming just North of you, and I've had run doors that open in and run doors that open out. After trying both ways, all future run doors I build will always be in -- here are my whys;

I can use the door to push hens gently back and slip in much easier with them with less chance of some being funneled out. Minnow traps and fly traps also funnel in, and it's how you swing a gate to sort cattle too.

I have a roof and will tarp the side(s) of the prevailing winds, N and W for me, which usually keeps the run snow free and gives the chooks a break from our bitter winds. Wyoming is a world of wind and snow drifts. Most Winter days, even when it's not snowing down from the sky, it's snowing sideways as the wind rearranges the snowdrifts, and the windbreak that's keeping snow out of the run, is creating a drift on the downwind, East, door side of my run. I get tired of shoveling a path to open the door every morning, especially when I'm trying to get to work, and especially when I know my shoveled door clearing will be blown back in in an hour and I can see there's no snow on the other side of the door. Well, you probably know plenty about snow and wind, and drifts in CO too, unless you're tucked well in the pines.

Also, I have a cattle panel chicken tractor that I use in the nicer months. It has doors that open in too. With the door in on the tractor, and the door open in on the run, I can park the tractor door to door as an extension doubling the run, or I can load chickens like this with a hand full of corn, and drag them to where I want them. Outward doors would get in the way of this door to door link.

 

[Alaskan]

i'm in Wyoming just North of you, and I've had run doors that open in and run doors that open out. After trying both ways, all future run doors I build will always be in -- here are my whys;

I can use the door to push hens gently back and slip in much easier with them with less chance of some being funneled out. Minnow traps and fly traps also funnel in, and it's how you swing a gate to sort cattle too.

I have a roof and will tarp the side(s) of the prevailing winds, N and W for me, which usually keeps the run snow free and gives the chooks a break from our bitter winds. Wyoming is a world of wind and snow drifts. Most Winter days, even when it's not snowing down from the sky, it's snowing sideways as the wind rearranges the snowdrifts, and the windbreak that's keeping snow out of the run, is creating a drift on the downwind, East, door side of my run. I get tired of shoveling a path to open the door every morning, especially when I'm trying to get to work, and especially when I know my shoveled door clearing will be blown back in in an hour and I can see there's no snow on the other side of the door. Well, you probably know plenty about snow and wind, and drifts in CO too, unless you're tucked well in the pines.

Also, I have a cattle panel chicken tractor that I use in the nicer months. It has doors that open in too. With the door in on the tractor, and the door open in on the run, I can park the tractor door to door as an extension doubling the run, or I can load chickens like this with a hand full of corn, and drag them to where I want them. Outward doors would get in the way of this door to door link.

Nice explanations!

I actually prefer Dutch doors.... and outward opening doors because outward opening doors are more secure against dogs jumping on them... and my carpentry skills suck.

The Dutch doors are so the bottom half stays closed all winter, I only open the top half, and step over the bottom half, so I do NOT have to shovel.

Great pointers from everyone....

But while I am on the topic of snow... either make the supports beefy enough to hold ALL of the snow in the world.... or slope the roof enough so that the snow slides off on it's own. I HATE extra shoveling.