Ok so I think I read something in another thread that you posted in about egg containers working for the incubator if you cut holes in the bottoms! Will the paper kind like this work??
Here is a paste from articles in my signature........ just for future reference!
New Chick Care Links and InfoDIP THE BEAK OF THE CHICK IN THE WATER BEFORE YOU TURN IT LOOSE in the brooder. A taste of water right away helps them to find more water soon. If your chicks are at all stressed, add about 3 tablespoons of brown or table sugar to each quart of water for extra energy. Most baby bird loss is caused because the bird doesn't start to eat or drink. Never let your bird run out of water. http://odysseyranch.com/Chick Care Tips.html[COLOR=FF0000]Dont forget to have Sav-A-ChickElectrolyte and Vitamin Supplement on hand![/COLOR] AND ITS CHEAP at TSC its Balanced electrolytes supplement for newly hatched and adult chickens, ducks, turkeys, and other domestic poultry. Fortified with vitamins A, D3, E, C, K, B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, B9 and B12. Convenient, single-use packets each mix into one gallon of drinking water. Use during hot weather or other stress to support optimal hydration and bird health. JUST IN CASE you have a weak bird! OR You can add sugar to the water in the first couple of days.
[TD] [/TD]Some causes of EARLY CHICK MORTALITY ~
CHICKEN ORTHOPEDICS ~
SEXING CHICKS ~ With in TWO DAYS you must do this or wait till they crow or lay!! refer to : http://www.ca.uky.edu/smallflocks/sex_linked_crosses.html & http://www.ca.uky.edu/smallflocks/Feather_sexing_practice.html[COLOR=800000]FINISHED ~[/COLOR][COLOR=800000]SANITIZE EQUIPMENT & PAT YOURSELF ON THE BACK or throw the bator out the window[/COLOR]
Quote:
DIP THE BEAK OF THE CHICK IN THE WATER BEFORE YOU TURN IT LOOSE in the brooder. A taste of water right away helps them to find more water soon. If your chicks are at all stressed, add about 3 tablespoons of brown or table sugar to each quart of water for extra energy. Most baby bird loss is caused because the bird doesn't start to eat or drink. Never let your bird run out of water. http://odysseyranch.com/Chick Care Tips.htmlÂ
Dont forget to have Sav-A-Chickâ„¢ Electrolyte and Vitamin Supplement on hand! AND ITS CHEAP at TSC its Balanced electrolytes supplement for newly hatched and adult chickens, ducks, turkeys, and other domestic poultry. Fortified with vitamins A, D3, E, C, K, B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, B9 and B12. Convenient, single-use packets each mix into one gallon of drinking water. Use during hot weather or other stress to support optimal hydration and bird health. JUST IN CASE you have a weak bird! OR You can add sugar to the water in the first couple of days.
http://www.mypetchicken.com/backyard-chickens/chicken-care/chapter-4-caring-for-baby-chicks.aspx
Â
Some causes of EARLY CHICK MORTALITY ~
Â
CHICKEN ORTHOPEDICS ~https://sites.google.com/a/larsencreek.com/chicken-orthopedics/leg-braces
https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/72885/boot-for-curled-toes-on-3-month-old-chicken-update-w-pics
http://www.the-chicken-chick.com/2012/02/spraddle-leg-in-baby-chicks-what-is-it.html
Â
SEXING CHICKS ~ With in TWO DAYS you must do this or wait till they crow or lay!! refer to : http://www.ca.uky.edu/smallflocks/sex_linked_crosses.html & http://www.ca.uky.edu/smallflocks/Feather_sexing_practice.html
FINISHED ~
SANITIZE EQUIPMENT & PAT YOURSELF ON THE BACK or throw the bator out the window
Cute chick! I dont know the breed but mille Fleur is a color not a breed, there are a few breeds that come in that color d'anver, d'uccle, cochin
So is this a Mille fleur pure? Or a d'anver & a Mille fleur??
Quote:
DIP THE BEAK OF THE CHICK IN THE WATER BEFORE YOU TURN IT LOOSE in the brooder. A taste of water right away helps them to find more water soon. If your chicks are at all stressed, add about 3 tablespoons of brown or table sugar to each quart of water for extra energy. Most baby bird loss is caused because the bird doesn't start to eat or drink. Never let your bird run out of water. http://odysseyranch.com/Chick Care Tips.html
Dont forget to have Sav-A-Chick™ Electrolyte and Vitamin Supplement on hand! AND ITS CHEAP at TSC its Balanced electrolytes supplement for newly hatched and adult chickens, ducks, turkeys, and other domestic poultry. Fortified with vitamins A, D3, E, C, K, B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, B9 and B12. Convenient, single-use packets each mix into one gallon of drinking water. Use during hot weather or other stress to support optimal hydration and bird health. JUST IN CASE you have a weak bird! OR You can add sugar to the water in the first couple of days.
http://www.mypetchicken.com/backyard-chickens/chicken-care/chapter-4-caring-for-baby-chicks.aspx
Some causes of EARLY CHICK MORTALITY ~
CHICKEN ORTHOPEDICS ~https://sites.google.com/a/larsencreek.com/chicken-orthopedics/leg-braces
https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/72885/boot-for-curled-toes-on-3-month-old-chicken-update-w-pics
http://www.the-chicken-chick.com/2012/02/spraddle-leg-in-baby-chicks-what-is-it.html
SEXING CHICKS ~ With in TWO DAYS you must do this or wait till they crow or lay!! refer to : http://www.ca.uky.edu/smallflocks/sex_linked_crosses.html & http://www.ca.uky.edu/smallflocks/Feather_sexing_practice.html
FINISHED ~
SANITIZE EQUIPMENT & PAT YOURSELF ON THE BACK or throw the bator out the window
Here's the wing! On the feather footed
Running a staggered hatch you can't run lockdown humidity the entire time. These will fare best (if this is a still air bator) with humidity between 40-50% for the entire time. Circulated air will need to be slightly higher (50-60%). If you raise humidity too high for the entire time, you are going to drown all of the later babies as they will not lose enough water in the 1st 18 days & the air cells will be too small. Eggs have a shelf-life of about 2 weeks before they begin to lose hatchability. You would do best to set eggs once every week to 2 weeks to avoid a complete staggering. I run staggered hatches all the time with no problems. I have 4 bators & usually like to try to do most of the hatching in 1 & incubation in the others when possible, but that's not always possible. When I have to hatch in the same bator that I have other eggs not yet in lockdown in I keep humidity as low as possible for as long as possible. Humidity will naturally rise when a chick pips the shell. As for removing hatched babies, yes you can take them out before they are fully dry as long as you have a nice warm brooder to put them in to finish drying. You can open the bator quickly to remove chicks, & humidity levels can be easily restored almost instantly by misting the inside of the lid of the bator with HOT water from a spray bottle once or twice.
Your chicks will tell you if your temps are correct. If they are huddled together under the light they are cold. Lower the light so they can get closer to it. If they are scattered as far from the light as they can get they are too hot. Raise the light. If they are running around or lounging everywhere randomly then temps are perfect.
