Pop door/ Ventilation question

[Nicole A.]

I'm new to chickens, and haven't actually ever owned any, so I wasn't sure what size coop to get (for 5 chickens) I ordered a 8x8 shed from Home Depot after reading a lot of people recommend that larger is better. I'm not really good at building things so I decided it was worth it to just get a shed. It has a 12"x12" wall vent and an 8 ft ridge vent. There will be two 2'x2' windows on two walls (so 4 windows total) that can open.

I was thinking of using one window as a pop door. Plus I could use the windows for added ventilation if needed. My questions:

1. How high should I place the windows so they can be used as ventilation, while still having space to make one into a pop door? (not sure how much space most pop doors need to function)

2. Should I have a poop board?

 

[cavemanrich]

You made a good decision on getting a shed and converting to coop. Here are my thoughts. Leave windows at window level, and use for Summer ventilation. You will have to install hardware cloth over window openings to predator proof. You do want daylight in your coop.
Cut out a pop door at floor level. You may want to install an automatic pop door in time, or just fashion a closable door. Only needs to be about 8 inches wide by 12 inches tall. Ideally pop door would be into your secured run, if you will have one. Otherwise place where desired.
Provide some year round ventilation in the gable ends on both sides opposite each other. Have the ventilation high up to the roof line. It is also good to provide some ventilation at low level for take in air. During winter your goal is to have airflow in your coop, but no drafts, or direct wind blowing on your chickens as they roost. Place your roost at about 3feet off the floor. Can be lower. Many peeps build nesting boxes on bottom, then a poop tray, and about 12 inches above that, roost bar. Don't build more than 3 nesting boxes. Most likely you will be seeing only one or two being used. Poop trays make cleaner coops. Use Sweet PDZ in tray, which will absorb ammonia from poop. Use a kitty litter scoop to clean out gumdrops..
Ask anything you need to know. That is why we all gather here.
WISHING YOU BEST... and
WTA. here is a pix of automatic pop door.

 

[aart]

You made a good decision on getting a shed and converting to coop.

Indeed!

Pics of shed would help...and knowing your climate.
Put your location in your profile, then it's always there!
Take your time and do lots of research before building.
When will you get your chick(en)s?

Oh, and, Welcome to BYC!

 

[blackdog043]

You will be glad you went with the shed. It's nice to be able to walk in and do the cleaning. Yes to the poop board. Pics of the shed and we will be more help to you. Leave your windows as windows and cut a pop door 6 - 8 inches above the floor so your coop bedding does not get drug out into your run. Ask questions!!!!!!! You may get a lot of different answers but choose what will work best for your situation.

 

[Nicole A.]

You made a good decision on getting a shed and converting to coop. Here are my thoughts. Leave windows at window level, and use for Summer ventilation. You will have to install hardware cloth over window openings to predator proof. You do want daylight in your coop.
Cut out a pop door at floor level. You may want to install an automatic pop door in time, or just fashion a closable door. Only needs to be about 8 inches wide by 12 inches tall. Ideally pop door would be into your secured run, if you will have one. Otherwise place where desired.
Provide some year round ventilation in the gable ends on both sides opposite each other. Have the ventilation high up to the roof line. It is also good to provide some ventilation at low level for take in air. During winter your goal is to have airflow in your coop, but no drafts, or direct wind blowing on your chickens as they roost. Place your roost at about 3feet off the floor. Can be lower. Many peeps build nesting boxes on bottom, then a poop tray, and about 12 inches above that, roost bar. Don't build more than 3 nesting boxes. Most likely you will be seeing only one or two being used. Poop trays make cleaner coops. Use Sweet PDZ in tray, which will absorb ammonia from poop. Use a kitty litter scoop to clean out gumdrops..
Ask anything you need to know. That is why we all gather here.
WISHING YOU BEST... and
WTA. here is a pix of automatic pop door.
View attachment 1203245

Thanks for the recommendation! (and picture) I live in a very windy are in Reno NV. Do you think it is still OK to add more ventilation low in the coop?

 

[Nicole A.]

Indeed!

Pics of shed would help...and knowing your climate.
Put your location in your profile, then it's always there!
Take your time and do lots of research before building.
When will you get your chick(en)s?

Oh, and, Welcome to BYC!

Thanks for the welcome. I will post a picture when it gets delivered! I also updated my profile with my location. I live in Reno NV. It gets pretty cold in the winter and snows a little, and has a super dry climate. In the summer it gets really hot, sometimes over 100, but it's dry heat. I'm not sure how much ventilation I need since my climate is really dry and windy. I don't want them to get to chilled in the winter.

I just thought I should ask some questions now because they can add in ventilation to the build. I don't really have any woodworking tools so the less wood cutting that I need to figure out the better.

I'm not sure exactly when I'm going to get the chickens, but maybe not until late spring or later. I'm not sure how long it will take me to figure out the run and interior, and the more I research the more I can't make up my mind about what breed of chicken to get.

 

[Nicole A.]

You made a good decision on getting a shed and converting to coop. Here are my thoughts. Leave windows at window level, and use for Summer ventilation. You will have to install hardware cloth over window openings to predator proof. You do want daylight in your coop.
Cut out a pop door at floor level. You may want to install an automatic pop door in time, or just fashion a closable door. Only needs to be about 8 inches wide by 12 inches tall. Ideally pop door would be into your secured run, if you will have one. Otherwise place where desired.
Provide some year round ventilation in the gable ends on both sides opposite each other. Have the ventilation high up to the roof line. It is also good to provide some ventilation at low level for take in air. During winter your goal is to have airflow in your coop, but no drafts, or direct wind blowing on your chickens as they roost. Place your roost at about 3feet off the floor. Can be lower. Many peeps build nesting boxes on bottom, then a poop tray, and about 12 inches above that, roost bar. Don't build more than 3 nesting boxes. Most likely you will be seeing only one or two being used. Poop trays make cleaner coops. Use Sweet PDZ in tray, which will absorb ammonia from poop. Use a kitty litter scoop to clean out gumdrops..
Ask anything you need to know. That is why we all gather here.
WISHING YOU BEST... and
WTA. here is a pix of automatic pop door.
View attachment 1203245

Would a 8" X 12" chicken door be too small for some breeds? Also should I avoid getting ventilation on the lower walls if I live in a windy area?

 

[cavemanrich]

Would a 8" X 12" chicken door be too small for some breeds? Also should I avoid getting ventilation on the lower walls if I live in a windy area?

My pop door opening is 8" x 11" My large RIR has no sweat fitting thru. You can make larger if you want. You are still not sure of breed you want. There are some GIANTS out there. Jersey Giant is one, close to a turkey almost. My automatic pop door opener can accommodate 10.5" x 13" . I'm sure the engineers designed it to fit most chicken needs. Here is a quick link if you wanted to read some of their specifications.
https://adorstore.com/products/ador1-automatic-chicken-door
There are many other pop door makers, with some just selling you the mechanical mechanism, and you make your own door.
You probably would be fine with one small vent down low for take-in air. Peeps that have a secured run do not cover their pop door openings. If you are concerned about too much wind, then place vent on less windy side of coop. If you were inside your coop with door closed and felt there was too much wind entering thru bottom vent, you can always partially block it of with a pail or box. Main thing would be to observe chicken's feathers.
The Golden Rule of Ventilation,,,,,, (BTW, I just made that up now , but feel it is true) You want air movement thru your coop. Ideally it will be upward, and exit thru top vents. You just do not want DRAFTS, and DIRECT WIND, that would ruffle your chicken's feathers as they are sleeping on their roost. In the Summertime, when it is warm/hot and you have the windows opened, the fresh air will not cause your chickens any harm. Obviously if there is a storm on the way, you would close appropriately.
You are making a wise choice not to have the cart ahead of the horse. When you have your housing done to your liking , then make that big leap and get those feathered BEAUTIES. You researching things ahead of time is a very WISE CHOICE.

 

[aart]

Your situation is interesting as you need beau-coup ventilation in summer,
think seriously about adding some shade, and wind blocking in winter.

Yes Kudos for starting with research instead of birds!
Keep a word file or spreadsheet for notes with headings like pop doors, roosts, nests, ventilation, etc. Paste links and/or posts you want to reference later. The headings and search function will make it easy to find that stuff you saved.

My main pop door is 14x18, the cockbird almost has to duck.
Secondary pop door is 14x~14, the cockbird does have to duck.
It also allows for 2 way traffic, which can be a very good thing.

Thinking of someone here from AZ that has winter panels over an open front.
AhHAH, found it!
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/open-front-coop-done-chicken-yard-in-progress.1160614/

Might also check out your state chat thread. Doesn't look real active, but give it a try.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/nevadans.253930/page-1974

Might try other 'hot' states threads:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/find-your-states-thread.270925/

 

[RonP]

My nest boxes are 20” above floor level. My poop door bottom is at the same level, opposite side of the shed (front and rear). This may seem unconventional, but it is actually very practical and functional. I designed this, and it works very, very well.

I have a 2x4 running from nesting boxes to the poop door bottom with a perpendicular landing, 1x1 in front of the nesting boxes, for the birds to settle before entering the boxes (forms a T).

Roosting 2x4s are 18 inches above all this.

Food is at 10” above floor level with a paver block platform, water at around 12” sitting on a water heater described in detail in a signature link.

Therefore, birds can hop up or down 18” max to next level any where inside the coop.

This allows for deep bedding (around 6”), and nesting boxes at a level below roosting bars, although not beneath. Roosting bars are on the sidewall opposite the human doorway, nesting boxes to the left, poop door to the right.…

Birds have no issues hopping from deep litter to the 2x4 to exit coop, or to enter the nesting boxes, nor the additional 18” (38” above floor level not including deep bedding) to roost for the night.

All this in an 8x8 footprint as well...