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Discussion in 'Coop & Run - Design, Construction, & Maintenance' started by chickenlover237, Nov 10, 2011.
Love this coop!! Looks great
We get a lot of snow here and at times, very cold in the winter. The structure was built to surpass any snow load. We are restricted to a coop and run no taller than 6'. That is why it is so short with a limited pitch. We are also limited to 4 birds. That is why the coop is small. Inside dimensions are 5'x5'x54" high.
I will post other pictures of the ventilation system soon. We have calculated the intake and exhaust cfm to allow the maximum static ventilation without a draft on the girls as well as controlled power venting for really hot or humid days. I brought the house to one of my jobsites to have the insulation sprayed in. Our hottest day so far of 91°F outside ambient with the coop/run door open all day it never got closer than a 13°F difference inside the coop. There is a concrete slab that is shaded under the coop that really helps this also. In one of the pictures you will see some of the six - 4" I.D. tubes in the floor that are adjustable for the intake air. Almost like air conditioning. Granted, those numbers are without birds moving in and out, but still promising.
I will be looking into the roosts as you mentioned.... Thanks. I followed a guideline on this site for the one I have in the coop and the roosts in the run. I will do more research on this.
The coop will be occupied by 4 Buff Orpingtons.
Brought the house to a job site to have insulation sprayed in. Geez, the insulating guys had to come TO my house for that! What an image out of context!
5x5 for 4 birds is really nice, I'm sure they will appreciate the floor space when the weather is such they would rather stay indoors. I figured the 'space per bird' calculation would include the roosts but I can count on 1 hand the number of times I have see one on the roost other than at night. Maybe it would be different if they didn't have adequate floor space.
Too bad your zoning people didn't go 7' for height, would make it something MOST people could stand up in and have some pitch to the roof. At least they allow you to have chickens.
"Standard" for roosts is 2x4 on the flat or 3" round fence rail. That is big enough for them to stand on without having to grip. I went with both thinking I could find out which they prefer. In the end, is seems being against a wall is the preferred spot and they use both equally since that gives 2 of them a wall on one side and 2 on the other. Actually, the other 2 "lucky" girls are up against the broody box which I have to use WAY too often. Since it is heavy, I just leave it up against the wall on the left side of the 2 roosts - parallel 18" apart and 4' off the floor. My birds are "cage free" but if I forget to close the broody box when it is unoccupied, several girls will sleep in it.
we have a peep we are trying to find out what it is, it don't look like a peep, we hatched them from our own eggs and do not have one that looks like this one,
its the black one, we have had chickens for 5 years and thank god no limit, but then maybe there should be, we had 23 chickens and got one some somewhere and it turned out to be sick and got the whole flock, then we hatched a few like 13 then a hen had 13, so here we are with 3 age groups the big ones are 1 1/2 years the next group is 10wks then we have the baby's they are about 5 wks old, a bout to make new coop for the 10 and 5 wks.
Don't get me wrong, I love my EEs but I sold some EE chicks that apparently are bullies to the cinnamon queens the buyer also has. I assume the too groups just need more time to fully integrate although I'd think 2 1/2 months would be a good length of time to integrate. LOL
I guess I just don't have the typical flock. I currently have a broody AustraWhite, had a broody Barred Rock last summer. Both of them are hatchery stock and supposedly non-broody.
Here's my attempt. Man, this was more work (and $$$) than I bargained for. 6x10' coup for my 5 chicks. 16x18' attached secure run. 2x4" welded wire on the sides and top. 1x2" welded wire buried on the perimeter to prevent Ricky the Raccoon from getting under. Yes, the area under the gate needs work, I'm on it.
I have to post the one I built from pallets, total cost $130
Gorgeous!!! Well done! I know what you mean on time and money. We have been building since March I think and took over one month off but we still are NOT done!!! Ahhhhhhh! Waaaaaayyyy more than we bargained for!