Questions on Framing

[U_Stormcrow]

and this is the Short (Back) Wall, 1 required. Note that this is pretty minimally framed. The Blocking should be flush with the outside edge of the 2x4 framing, and the CA Corner should be flush with the inside edge of the 2x4 framing. Toe nailing of the blocking is just fine, its providing a nailing surface for your siding to run horizontally. You can stagger then vertically an inch or so, if it makes it easier, you've plenty of width to play with.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

And this will look very familiar, because you are just repeating the process to make (roughly half) of the long wall. You will need to make two of these. You will also see most of the blocking remains the same - why reinvent the wheel, right? Place two of your Smartside sheets, one above the other, on this after its nailed up to the other wall sections. The Smartside is about 4" longer than the wall - what will allow it to cover and attach to the edge of the Short (Back) and Tall (Front) walls, respectively.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

And here's your Door walls, 2 required. Same construction methods. If you notch, but do not completely cut thru, the wood at the bottom of the wall where the door will be, it will be easier to finish cleanly with a hand saw after erection. This is designed for an 82.5" x 38" rough opening. You should be able to mount an off the shelf external door assembly right into that. Same rules regarding blocking, etc. The jack studs can be cut from whitewood studs or standard 2x4x8s as you prefer. Once its finished out w/ trim, I find it pretty weather resistant - no need to go with pressure treated lumber there.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

and here's the Tall (Front) Wall. Whole thing is built with 2x4x10s and blocking. This will not be very stiff when you go to erect it. Nail some temporary bracing at an angle to stiffen it up, its going to want to twist on you. Once again, blocking flush with the outer face, CA corners flush with the inner face.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

Here are all the wall sections, assembled, with no roof structure for reference:

 

[LightedPrism]

Here are all the wall sections, assembled, with no roof structure for reference:

you are amazing!!! Thank you so so much!!!! I am speechless with thanks honestly.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

Here's the Rafter / Roof Layout. The Rafter Template will come separately;

 

[U_Stormcrow]

Rafter Template. This rafter overhang gives about 2' 4" at the back (short end), the thinking being that you could put some sheltered storage there, and only overhangs the front (high end) about 1' 9", which should shelter that large opening from most rain (anything less than 40 degree angle +/-), but if you wanted a little more coverage, you could increase the measurements to the birds beak at the front a bit, and decrease the same amount at back - I would not adjust more than 8" +/- if you choose to do that.

 

[LightedPrism]

Rafter Template. This rafter overhang gives about 2' 4" at the back (short end), the thinking being that you could put some sheltered storage there, and only overhangs the front (high end) about 1' 9", which should shelter that large opening from most rain (anything less than 40 degree angle +/-), but if you wanted a little more coverage, you could increase the measurements to the birds beak at the front a bit, and decrease the same amount at back - I would not adjust more than 8" +/- if you choose to do that.

Seriously I am beyond grateful. Thank you so, so much!

 

[U_Stormcrow]

and here is the bracing for the triangle. Its probably overkill, but you can just slap it up. Each side will get a 2x4x12, laid on edge, with a notch taken out of one corner so ii fits under the rafter. Its placed flush with the outer edge of the building envelope and screwed to the top plate from underneath (you could hammer it, but I hate hammering "downside up" - suspect you will to). Then a bunch of crutch plates are cut square, no need to be fancy, and screwed to the back of the 2x4x12 and the rafter just above it. Four 2x4x12s will provide all the lumber needed here. Showing both sides of the assemblies, as they mirror one another - you can't make two identical pieces and expect them to fit. Sorry.