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Do you have any experience with lingonberry? I'm considering using it as a ground cover in the landscaping around the house.

Im a Swede via my mothers line. This equals lingon, sil, and swedish pancakes!!!
I have been scoping out a location for these !!!

Look carefully at the growing conditions for these, re type of soil, pH of that soil and moisture levels.

My mother and I often picked wild cranberries LONG AGO, and we risked wet feet and falling down into shallow boggy wetlands with so many cattails my big dog completely disappearred and only " pop" "pop" clued us in as to her location.

Im mentioning this because this experience set the stage for the location to plant cranaberries.......BUT when I read the planting instructions this is NOT the right location. THey don't need bogs. Dryer is better. Perhaps the location my mother and I picked was dry in the summer and only flooded during the fall rains......

Lingnonberry's are a great choice.

I found MANY odd fruit shrubs with acid loving needs. Perhaps make a whole planting!
 
Mice wiped out my marigold babies. Replanted but germination is nil this time. Mouse population has been decreased.

Those little furry things also took 3 of my tomato transplants. Traps not catching anything.

Still repotting tomato seedlings. Running out of room. BOught a small greenhouse on sale to set up in son's bedroom. Good green plants to make the air healthier as well. ( He doesnt know .)

Sunflowers grew leggy before getting a light set up for them. Used toilet paper tubes to hold them upright while the stems thicken. Keep tipping over and I keep setting them up....seems to be working.

Planting out the fruit trees as the weather allows and my boys have time to dig. There was a time I would do the digging, but better to have the boys do it. Co-mixing apples, pears, and stone fruits in the peach family. Planting rows 30 feet apart in hopes of good air circulation..... allowing 20 feet per tree for good air circulation.....

Envisioning the span of the roots, Im confused on how to add more plants under the canopy without causing stress to the roots. The semi-dwarf and dwarf trees have shallow root systems; apparently the standard trees have much deeper tap root and the roots overall apparently are deeper. More questions than answers at this point. Hmmmm.... maybe get in the shrubs and beneficials while trees are young and let roots work around each other rather than cut into the roots later to plant the beneficials......
 
Anyone see the program telecast last night on local public TV stations? " Decoding the Weather Machine" was a must watch. Starts with the basics. Very basic. My teens were bored.... this is old news to them. A harping mom to blame. The last hour was inspirational--we can all make a difference. We CAN stop the increase in atmospheric carbon.

One man featured, a farmer of hundreds maybe thousands of wheat fields, changed to a no till mmethod years ago because his soils were so poor. In the relatively few years since dropping the chopped chaff back on to his fields the soils are a rich dark brown-black.

When carbon is kept as a plant or tree, or as soils rich in hummus, not only do the plants benefit but the atmosphere does too.

One couple changed their lawn into a food forest. A number of med-large trees, bushes and annual fruits and vegetables. Reduced need for pesticides Im guessing and readily available snacks, and exercise.

WIth a little searching UrbanGardener had an article by a guest soil specialist.
https://www.urbanfarm.org/2018/01/23/healthy-soils/

Where my orchard is started, the soils are shocking. A duff layer that is only a few inches thick. Yet the leaves have been falling and decaying inplace for decades. Where is the deep soils I was expecting?

While a fair number of trees are being removed, this is causing some angst. THese collected hundreds of pounds of carbon. In the past the answer to brush was to burn it. We dont do that anymore. It is piled up as a break to keeep the deer out of the garden. It will be used again for a larger perimeter to keep the deer out. THey have plenty to eat in the hundreds of acres abutting our acreage. THe branches will decay back into the soil but I do need to have a plan to help the decay.

The zone between the trees is for grass, and there is native tufts dotting the hillside. Perhaps raking off the fall leaves into piles close to the fruit trees will benefit both the grasses and the fruit treees. I do worry about the small rodents the like to take up residence in those piles. Perhaps mix with other materiial to eliminate the hominess.

Too much to think about.
 
Will probably be getting some Nanking cherry bushes, wild apple trees, and native plums.
We already have some Black Cherry, wild blueberry, black rasberry, blackberries, and I'm letting some wild mulberry trees grow.
 
Romeo™ Dwarf Cherry, Garden : Gardens Alive
https://www.gardensalive.com/product/romeo-dwarf-cherry $39.99 - ‎In stock
Romeo™ Dwarf Cherry. High-yield and cold hardy. Fruit sweet enough for fresh eating, but with enough tartness to make them perfect for pies. At 7-8 ft. high and wide, this is a perfect tree/ bush for the home garden. Self-pollinating, but does even better when two varieties are planted. Bareroot. #09467. 1 Bareroot Plant.

Cherries: How to Plant, Grow, and Harvest Cherries | The Old Farmer's ...
https://www.almanac.com/plant/cherries
Sour cherries are much smaller than sweet cherries and all varieties are self-fertile. They grow in zones 4 to 6. Cherry trees generally start bearing fruit in their fourth year; dwarf trees bear fruit a year earlier. One mature, standard-size tart or sweet cherry tree will produce 30 to 50 quarts of cherries each year; a dwarf tree, ...

Dwarf Sour Cherries for the Prairies - University of Saskatchewan Fruit ...
www.fruit.usask.ca/articles/cherries.pdf
When I first saw the dwarf sour cherries that Rick Sawatzky was breeding at the. University of Saskatchewan I ... In the 1980's the U of Sk's cherry breeding program received a boost when Les Kerr donated his germplasm to the .... weighed down with fruit and are more likely to produce fruit in the future. 7. SK Carmen Jewel ...

The Cherry Tree Guild and Natural Pest Control | Tenth Acre Farm
https://www.tenthacrefarm.com › Blog Posts
Sep 10, 2013 - In this case, our primary crop is the cherry tree. The plants work together to build a healthier fruit tree that may be more resistant to pests and disease, and will hopefully produce more cherries, too! Support species in a fruit tree guild are planted under the fruit tree, typically within the drip line. The drip line ...

 

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