September Hatch-A-Long!

[Heidisgran]

I'm hopeful thats what it is. The one that I opened *sighs in self-shame* is luckily still moving. I was scared he bled out or something along those lines since he stopped moving but when I tap the viewing glass he dutifully gives me me a little kick and squirm. I'm not touching the other 3 at all until atleast day 25. Seeing that one little bleed scared me off trying to help until I know for CERTAIN without a single doubt that they need it. I just hope the little open shelled one makes it.

it will just keep the humidity up...it's fine...keep us updated...I think your still at least 2 or 3 days out from the sound of it

 

[Heidisgran]

https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/824155/october-hatch-a-long/160#post_12074905
who is moving to October?

 

[Kyochan]

Here is the little one that I thought was a quitter but is very much NOT a quitter.

 

[Heidisgran]

Here is the little one that I thought was a quitter but is very much NOT a quitter.

wrap the towel up all around it only leaving a little air hole

 

[DeannaA]

so precious
I think your going to have to apply some tough love....
I put a dog crate under the heat lamp and cover it like you would an cage bird to put them to sleep at night....not in my room!

If I can make a diaper, it might be ok. Somehow, I manage to always stay aware of where she is. How can I say no to this face when she wants tosleep with me? I am not tough.

 

[Kyochan]

Okay. *goes to do so*

 

[Angie Poo]

https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/824155/october-hatch-a-long/160#post_12074905
who is moving to October?

I was not planning on it but already moved over since I got 30 quail eggs in the mail yesterday!

 

[familypendragon]

Okay. *goes to do so*

You will probably be fine Patience is the key. If the chick would have been fine - they can still be fine. Keep an eye on it - even if the membrane gets dry it can still be removed with help when its time and still be JUST FINE. What a viable chick needs in order to hatch is oxygen and time to absorb all the blood and yolk. If it has that it can come through unscathed Lesson learned is ALWAYS assume its alive and go slowly and carefully just as you would if it was alive. One thing that I do in situations like this is use a q-tip with warm water on the membrane - being careful not to drip any water into the breathing hole. I identify the largest vein on the membrane and then use another q-tip with coconut oil (or antibiotic ointment WITHOUT any painkiller added) to coat that vein so I can clearly see when it has been absorbed through the viewing window without opening the bator. If the membrane start to get really crusty and dried on I will coat the whole membrane - REMEMBER this is ONLY if it already has a breathing hole otherwise coating the membrane could smother it. Once the vein is totally absorbed that doesn't mean the yolk is so I give it even more time. Often when its ready to come out it will start raising a ruckus and struggling - that is when I will slowly begin releasing it from portions of the membrane and shell behind its head. I chip a piece of shell with tweezers leaving both membranes in tact and use a qtip with coconut oil on the double thickness of membrane to see through it and make sure there is no veining. If there is not veining I use tiny cuticle type scissors to carefull clip through both membranes behind the head to release the head so that it can raise its head when IT is ready. I then put it back in and wait for signs it is trying to get out of the shell. Usually that is all it takes and it can do the rest.

 

[familypendragon]

You will probably be fine Patience is the key. If the chick would have been fine - they can still be fine. Keep an eye on it - even if the membrane gets dry it can still be removed with help when its time and still be JUST FINE. What a viable chick needs in order to hatch is oxygen and time to absorb all the blood and yolk. If it has that it can come through unscathed Lesson learned is ALWAYS assume its alive and go slowly and carefully just as you would if it was alive. One thing that I do in situations like this is use a q-tip with warm water on the membrane - being careful not to drip any water into the breathing hole. I identify the largest vein on the membrane and then use another q-tip with coconut oil (or antibiotic ointment WITHOUT any painkiller added) to coat that vein so I can clearly see when it has been absorbed through the viewing window without opening the bator. If the membrane start to get really crusty and dried on I will coat the whole membrane - REMEMBER this is ONLY if it already has a breathing hole otherwise coating the membrane could smother it. Once the vein is totally absorbed that doesn't mean the yolk is so I give it even more time. Often when its ready to come out it will start raising a ruckus and struggling - that is when I will slowly begin releasing it from portions of the membrane and shell behind its head. I chip a piece of shell with tweezers leaving both membranes in tact and use a qtip with coconut oil on the double thickness of membrane to see through it and make sure there is no veining. If there is not veining I use tiny cuticle type scissors to carefull clip through both membranes behind the head to release the head so that it can raise its head when IT is ready. I then put it back in and wait for signs it is trying to get out of the shell. Usually that is all it takes and it can do the rest.

I should add that nother indicator I use is to wait till others start to hatch on their own. i will figure that this one would not likely be ready to hatch until 24 hours after the first one pips at least. Just as a ball park figure.

Edited to add that I forgot the part where before releasing BEHIND the head I clip and peel back the whole top of the membrane - using a wet qtip to peel it off if its gotten glued down.

 

[Kyochan]

You will probably be fine

Patience is the key. If the chick would have been fine - they can still be fine. Keep an eye on it - even if the membrane gets dry it can still be removed with help when its time and still be JUST FINE. What a viable chick needs in order to hatch is oxygen and time to absorb all the blood and yolk. If it has that it can come through unscathed

Lesson learned is ALWAYS assume its alive and go slowly and carefully just as you would if it was alive. One thing that I do in situations like this is use a q-tip with warm water on the membrane - being careful not to drip any water into the breathing hole. I identify the largest vein on the membrane and then use another q-tip with coconut oil (or antibiotic ointment WITHOUT any painkiller added) to coat that vein so I can clearly see when it has been absorbed through the viewing window without opening the bator. If the membrane start to get really crusty and dried on I will coat the whole membrane - REMEMBER this is ONLY if it already has a breathing hole otherwise coating the membrane could smother it. Once the vein is totally absorbed that doesn't mean the yolk is so I give it even more time. Often when its ready to come out it will start raising a ruckus and struggling - that is when I will slowly begin releasing it from portions of the membrane and shell behind its head. I chip a piece of shell with tweezers leaving both membranes in tact and use a qtip with coconut oil on the double thickness of membrane to see through it and make sure there is no veining. If there is not veining I use tiny cuticle type scissors to carefull clip through both membranes behind the head to release the head so that it can raise its head when IT is ready. I then put it back in and wait for signs it is trying to get out of the shell. Usually that is all it takes and it can do the rest.

I'm about to head to the store to find either coconut oil or neosporin, so I will definitely do that in case I need it. How would I know where to help chip at for the head though, when I have no idea where it's head currently is?