So do I REALLY need a walk-in coop?

[gtaus]

I have something similar to the first blocks that i used to support the boards for a raised bed. But I have never seen the ones that hold a 4"x4". (Saving the pix).

Just want to make sure you noticed that the links will take you directly to the Menards webpage for those blocks. If you don't have a Menards, you could probably print out that page and show it to your local building supplier so they can see exactly what you are looking for.

 

[Ben Lynnsy]

I lined my 6x12 coop floor with inexpensive linoleum that I got on sale for less than $25.00 at Menards. That was 3 years ago. The linoleum looks almost as good as new. I use deep bedding in my coop so the linoleum always has at least 3 inches of litter on it. In the past, I have used everything from wood chips, leaves, and dried grass. They all work. Recently, I am using paper shreds I make at home from newspapers, junk mail, office paper, and light cardboard from food boxes, etc...

An alternative to linoleum that many people use is Black Jack 57 (BJ57) rubber coating. Here is a link on Amazon... Black Jack Rubr-Coat 57 Gloss Black Rubber Roof Coating 1 gal. It pretty expensive on Amazon, but you might find it locally at a lower price.

View attachment 3205398

The fans of BJ57 swear by it, but personally I would choose whatever option is the least expensive. For a small coop, I suspect that would just be a small cut of linoleum. I do think it's important to protect the coop floor boards because it might be a pain to have to replace the rotted floor a few years down the road. Better to repaint with BJ57 or rip out and replace the linoleum.

Thanks!! Yeah, for a small coop, I think a piece of linoleum would be better. And I have some left over in the basement that was there when we bought the house 20+ years ago. if it "ages" badly I could pull it out and replace it. A lot easier than having to repaint.

 

[Ben Lynnsy]

Just want to make sure you noticed that the links will take you directly to the Menards webpage for those blocks. If you don't have a Menards, you could probably print out that page and show it to your local building supplier so they can see exactly what you are looking for.

No Menards here, but that's *EXACTLY* what I did, LOL. I'm big on printing pix to make sure there is no mistake LOL

 

[Ben Lynnsy]

@3KillerBs and anyone else:
OK, here's my "mock up". It's pretty crude, but it gives me the info I need (I think). The table top is 27" off the ground. The cardboard boxes directly on top of it accurately represent the 48" width of the coop, and at their top they are a little taller than the side walls of the coop. The blue container tops out at 68", so it is 13" taller than the monitor top (55"). So picture this as being "coop" from ground up, and 13 inches shorter. If I scoot it left, or move it forward some, or trim that overhanging branch a little, I think I can gain at least 5 more inches for the "run" under the coop. Maybe more. Have I missed something? I'm blinded by my wish to have this coop. LOL

​

 

[gtaus]

If I scoot it left, or trim that overhanging branch a little, I think I can gain at least 5 more inches for the "run" under the coop. Maybe more. Have I missed something? I'm blinded by my wish to have this coop. LOL

Are you building this type of coop, or are you buying an existing coop from someone or somewhere else already built? It was my understanding that you intend to build from the design. If that is the case, you might want to consider dropping the extended roof top. I don't think you need that much extension for ventilation. Well, certainly not where I live. That might give you those extra inches you need not to trim the tree.

Are there any side windows or screens on that coop? If not, I might suggest building in some windows to allow cross ventilation and natural light into the coop. I bought some inexpensive garage type sliding windows for my coop which have worked out great for me. They have built in screens. I usually keep them open year-round, but I do close them temporarily if we get a blowing winter storm - just to keep out the snow.

At the time, 3 years ago, I think I paid about $30 per window, but I imagine they have gone up in price. Anyway, I put one window on each side of the coop which provides some natural light and cross ventilation to freshen up the coop air.

A less expensive alternative would be using hardware cloth on a window frame (without glass), and just stapling on some plastic sheeting if you need to cover it during a storm.

You probably don't need extra ventilation or more natural light (said nobody, ever) but the time to consider it is before you build.

 

[3KillerBs]

I had thought, when I get that far, that I might make the first "layer" of the deep bedding a liner of linoleum. Whaddaya think about that????

Inside the coop where it will be dry a liner of something waterproof it optional. Mine doesn't have it but some people do.

@3KillerBs and anyone else:
OK, here's my "mock up". It's pretty crude, but it gives me the info I need (I think). The table top is 27" off the ground. The cardboard boxes directly on top of it accurately represent the 48" width of the coop, and at their top they are a little taller than the side walls of the coop. The blue container tops out at 68", so it is 13" taller than the monitor top (55"). So picture this as being "coop" from ground up, and 13 inches shorter. If I scoot it left, or move it forward some, or trim that overhanging branch a little, I think I can gain at least 5 more inches for the "run" under the coop. Maybe more. Have I missed something? I'm blinded by my wish to have this coop. LOL

​

That looks good. A little trimming on a low-hanging tree branch is necessary sometimes anyway -- you'd need to get a mower under there anyway if you weren't building a coop.

ady built? It was my understanding that you intend to build from the design. If that is the case, you might want to consider dropping the extended roof top. I don't think you need that much extension for ventilation. Well, certainly not where I live.

That coop was specifically designed for this climate. The amount of venting in the monitor is at the minimum already -- supplemented by a small window down near the nests. It's the coop currently linked in my profile.

Are there any side windows or screens on that coop? If not, I might suggest building in some windows to allow cross ventilation and natural light into the coop.

There are no windows in the side walls other than the one down by the nests. It certainly would be possible to put on in the wall that doesn't contain the access door -- though it would have to be narrow so as not to run into the roost.

 

[Ben Lynnsy]

Are you building this type of coop, or are you buying an existing coop from someone or somewhere else already built? It was my understanding that you intend to build from the design. If that is the case, you might want to consider dropping the extended roof top. I don't think you need that much extension for ventilation. Well, certainly not where I live. That might give you those extra inches you need not to trim the tree.

Are there any side windows or screens on that coop? If not, I might suggest building in some windows to allow cross ventilation and natural light into the coop. I bought some inexpensive garage type sliding windows for my coop which have worked out great for me. They have built in screens. I usually keep them open year-round, but I do close them temporarily if we get a blowing winter storm - just to keep out the snow.

View attachment 3205567

At the time, 3 years ago, I think I paid about $30 per window, but I imagine they have gone up in price. Anyway, I put one window on each side of the coop which provides some natural light and cross ventilation to freshen up the coop air.

A less expensive alternative would be using hardware cloth on a window frame (without glass), and just stapling on some plastic sheeting if you need to cover it during a storm.

You probably don't need extra ventilation or more natural light (said nobody, ever) but the time to consider it is before you build.

Building from a design here on Backyard. I might make some changes like windows/hardware cloth or more ventilation, but I will pretty much stick with the plan as is, including the size of the monitor on top. This was designed for NC heat and humidity by a person who lives only 70 miles from me, so I know it is "right" for my conditions. Thanks!

 

[Folly's place]

And you don't need actual house type windows. Openings covered in hardware cloth work fine, and can be covered in sheet vinyl in really cold weather (if you ever have any)!
Also, having a glass or plastic 'window' hinged from the top works as an awning.
Mary

 

[Silexian]

How much is your time worth? A walk in takes less of your time and effort for cleaning and daily care of your flock. Giving your more time to watch crazy chicken antics .

 

[Ben Lynnsy]

And you don't need actual house type windows. Openings covered in hardware cloth work fine, and can be covered in sheet vinyl in really cold weather (if you ever have any)!
Also, having a glass or plastic 'window' hinged from the top works as an awning.
Mar

How much is your time worth? A walk in takes less of your time and effort for cleaning and daily care of your flock. Giving your more time to watch crazy chicken antics .

I'm retired. LOL. Lotsa time to do ANYTHING I want. I don't even see how I ever had time for a paying job, LOL.
I can't see that a 4x4 coop with good side access and deep bedding would take me much longer to clean out than a walk-in. Also my space is small, and I think a walk-in coop would be very imposing in that small space.
One thing: I think MANY ppl here have been keeping chickens for years, and have "grown into" a walk-in coop. But for those of us just starting, even without my space constraints, a walk-in coop is a big commitment. What if I don't like keeping chickens and I decide to give it up in a few years? "What?? Not like keeping chickens!?!?!" I know chicken keepers can't imagine that, LOL. But it happens, and I know I do tend to run hot and cold. So for someone like me, I am more comfortable starting out small. I will have a walk-in run (8x8) and that should be good enough for a beginner.