TREAT THEM FOR WORMS NOW -Molting - short days - few or no eggs anyway

[calgal98]

One of the reasons that a mild wormer is recommended first is that roundworms attach to the intestinal lining and mucus linings of the chicken's innards. When they die, they release their hold and can cause bleeding. If there is a heavy infestation the chicken can bleed to death. A mild wormer kills fewer, reducing the risk of that heavy bleeding. The second wormer will kill the rest of the worms and the time between gives the bird a chance to rebuild its strength. If you don't know the state of your flock err on the side of caution and do two seperate wormings.
This is what we do with all of our other farm animals, from goats to horses.

I'm kind of late to this post, but thought I would still post it for those that might not know the reasoning.

 

[ikatiemay]

Joe Thanks sooooo much for clearing up the worming issue!! I have been stressing about it but didnt want to kill the girls with my ignorance

I havent wormed yet they are all 10 mo old. Dont think we have gone through a molt yet, a few feathers missing on the backs of a couple but I think it may be the overactive roo! I will get busy and get the supplies soon. Sure hate to give up those eggs for the 2 weeks. Wonder of the DH would like some of the buttemilk? LOL Kate

 

[tenderkat]

I may have missed it over the last several pages of replies, but can anyone please explain to me what the signs of an infestation might be?

My girls will be 2 years old in March, and I have yet to worm them. I have RIR's and Barred Rocks. They were great layers until mid-summer last year, and then it declined dramatically. There are absolutely no signs of mites or lice, but they just don't look as vibrant as they used to. Recently, I've noticed some weird things going on with their poops as well. And, I also suspect that I may have at least one eggbound or internal layer, but I'll address that with a different post.

Here are some poop pics I took yesterday:

In this one, there are several small red tissue-like pieces:

In the next two, there is ALOT of extra fluid:

There are several reasons I haven't ever wormed them. The first, is that I really don't want to do any unnecessary medicating. The second, is that I wasn't really sure how/when to go about it, which this thread has cleared up for me. Also, I am still not exactly certain that a worm infestation is the problem, but SOMETHING is definitely going on, to my girl's detriment.

Somewhere on this site is a post with a bunch of poop pics, describing the irregularities. I can't seem to find it, but if anyone can post a link, that would be great. Also, if we DO have a worm issue, and I go ahead and treat them, won't they just reinfest themselves from being in the same run where they have been pooping?!

Any help would be greatly appreciated, I really would hate to have my girls fall into a further state of decline. Thanks so much!!

Katherine

 

[MomMommyMamma]

Here's the poo page (that I know of). http://www.chat.allotment.org.uk/index.php?topic=17568.0

 

[Chicken-Rage]

Good info guys thanks.

 

[dogsandchickens]

Hi,
I am going to use Wazine to de-worm my chickens. I have seen round worms and tried to treat with DE to no avail. I have 5 adults in with 4 "chicks" who are 21 weeks old. Does anyone see a problem in the "chicks" having access to the medicated water? I plan to re-treat in 10 days with a different de-wormer and throw out the eggs for 10 days each time I treat. I'm also going to treat for lice/mites at the same time (I have a chicken loosing feathers). I did the coconut oil/DE treatment and the mites came right back. This time I'm going to use seven. Any issues with doing both treatments at the same time?
Thanks for any tips,
Audrey

 

[bairo]

Hi,
I am going to use Wazine to de-worm my chickens. I have seen round worms and tried to treat with DE to no avail. I have 5 adults in with 4 "chicks" who are 21 weeks old. Does anyone see a problem in the "chicks" having access to the medicated water? I plan to re-treat in 10 days with a different de-wormer and throw out the eggs for 10 days each time I treat. I'm also going to treat for lice/mites at the same time (I have a chicken loosing feathers). I did the coconut oil/DE treatment and the mites came right back. This time I'm going to use seven. Any issues with doing both treatments at the same time?
Thanks for any tips,
Audrey

You might want to try ivermectin "pour on" for the first treatment. This should erradicate the mites / lice and act as a decent 1st wormer all at the same time. wait ten days and then treat with valbazen. You can find better (longer) explanations under my coop page (link below my name) and scroll down on that page.

 

[ChanceRider]

Saving to read later. Thanks!

 

[lualshannon]

Very helpful information, thank you! I hope this thread remains active.

 

[jujube2]

Hello,

I am reading posts concerning worming chickens and am overwhelmed at this point as a new chicken owner. We have twenty-six 7 month old chickens, we lost 1 Sussex hen last week due to what may have been worms combined with impacted/sour crop that was not found right away. She originally had what was posted "nasty butt" with white drippings and feather loss, eventually stopped eating and drinking. We have 2 vets in our area neither treats chickens and would not prescribe medication. I used the internet to gather information, we treated her for the rear issue and got that cleared up only to find a hard large lump center chest. Olive oil and warm water given with a dropper helped soften the lump some. Next morning it had returned as hard as before the massage. By this time I'd found the monistat cure and realized she was suffering with a yeast infection. At daylight we went to check on her before going into town for monistat and we'd lost her some time after 2 a.m.

We now have an Americana hen moving slowly, separating from the flock, not eating or drinking but has no lumps, flat crop and no other lumps on her body. We have isolated her because she's not her usual self and has a clear slimy liquid running from her beak. This is the only symptom she has aside from not eating or drinking. Chicken health/vet forums list the clear liquid under both worming and sour crop. Should I worm my chickens at this point, would I be safe in doing so? I purchased wazine 17 yesterday and in reading a couple posts this morning they highlight, once this product is used the eggs are no longer fit for human consumption, ever. Dawg gives the schedule for disposing of unsafe egg consumption during the 2 worming phases. Lots of questions, please help. Do you think my Americana should be wormed at this point? We purchased and started giving Red Earth D-earth in their feed on Monday, also spread it in the run. They use the same run daily which is sandy loam, the 21 remaining hens share an 8 x 8 raised coop, 2 roosters share a second and the 3 remaining roosters share the 3rd. Hens and roosters are separately housed as is the use of the run. I have looked at poop to see if I notice worms but could not tell, they look normal and well formed according the poop chart. The 1 that is now separated has not been pooping much the 2 she has done have been loose with a white color. Today will be her 3rd day not eating or drinking so I will be using a dropper to get the electrolyte and probiotic mix on her tongue hoping she will take it. We have a heat lamp in her cabinet as well. Suggestions please, I don't want to lose a second hen if at all possible.

Jujube2