We’ve got a coop with a million of these live or mites?

[MrsAuberry00]

My coop is completely wooden so a blow torch would work quite well....I'm sure the new coop I'd be bringing in would be pest free!

 

[ChickenCanoe]

I think the easiest way to do this is for you to look at the coops I have. This will help you decide whether of not this method is practicable for your coop/s.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/shadrach’s-multi-coops.74344/
Mites tend to concentrate on perch ends, wood end grain and construction seams. The fewer of these you have the less places for mites to hid. Mites do not like daylight.
The blue tip of a flame from a canister powered blow torch is around 400 degrees centigrade. Just a touch from this flame tip kills mites.
I strip out the coop (all my nest boxes and roost bars are removable) leaving a bare interior. I scrape the poop off the surfaces with a decorators paint scraper and brush the dust out. I then run the tip of the blowtorch flame over the roost bar ends, any internal seams and the nest box seams. If I'm having problems with scaly leg mite I go over the floor as well. I do this every fourth clean on average.
It is advisable for a beginner to have a water spray or water based fire extinguisher handy.
You can find more information about blow torch cleaning on a number of bee keeping sites.

https://www.cotswoldbees.co.uk/the-blow-torch-a-beekeepers-best-friend/

I use a torch on my hive bodies and equipment. That's the safest way to rid of pests. Then I sometimes freeze them.
I can see it working well on hen houses.
I'm getting ready to build 2 small versions of woods style coops. You gave me a couple new ideas. Removable roosts.

 

[Shadrach]

I use a torch on my hive bodies and equipment. That's the safest way to rid of pests. Then I sometimes freeze them.
I can see it working well on hen houses.
I'm getting ready to build 2 small versions of woods style coops. You gave me a couple new ideas. Removable roosts.

I put quite a lot of thought into the type of coop I wanted. Everything is removable so that blow torch cleaning was practicable and the coops are movable too which helps with ground parasite control. The coops get moved and the ground burnt.
The type of coops I have are not suitable for every keeping arrangement and of course because the chickens free range every day, all they require is secure roost bar and nest box space.

We have bees here too.

 

[aart]

I'm getting ready to build 2 small versions of woods style coops.

How small....will you do a build thread??

 

[ChickenCanoe]

I doubt I have time to do that. I might take some pictures but that's it. They won't be exactly to scale of Woods style. The concept will be the same but utilizing available space at the end of garden beds replacing another building
I'm finally dismantling a building that I couldn't make mink proof. That building was Only intended to be a grow out coop for a year or two. Here I am 10 years later.
They will both be 99 sq. ft. A permit is required for anything above 100.
Each will be 3 units with attached runs over my raised garden beds. Each unit will be for pairs and trios.
I'll use them to rotate hens and roosters so I can identify which hens are laying the lighter hue eggs. That way I can sell off hens that aren't contributing to the breeding program. That will save me a lot of money on feed because I imagine I can sell half of my hens.

 

[SurferchickinSB]

Ok, thanks everyone. Permethrin is a synthetic insecticide. It is a synthetic version of pyrethrin. As we are going to be a certified organic farm, we need a natural insecticide. Has anyone used pyrethrin successfully? Permethrin does not break down as quickly and that may be better at killing all the mites.

I think you should look into the elector PSP. It works by a bacterial agent and I am pretty sure it is considered organic. I only like to use organic methods. You usually only have to spray once.