What did you do in the garden today?

I just finished a new pallet wood raised bed build and posted the pictures on the thread Show Me Your Pallet Projects!. As usual, I invite anyone interested in pallet projects to check out that thread and all the pallet projects members have shared.

Here is a copy of my post as it also relates to this garden thread...

⚠️ Pallet Wood 4X4 Foot, 16 Inch High, Raised Garden Bed - New Design

:yesss: Time to upload some pictures of my newly designed pallet wood raised garden bed. I was plenty happy with my old raised bed design, but I specifically wanted to redo this design to use the pallet wood notched 2X4 stretchers without cutting them. With that in mind, I took apart some pallets that had 4 foot long 2X4's, all of the same thickness, or very close to it. The beauty of this step is that you don't need to have the 2X4's nail free in this build. That means, you can use a reciprocating saw to cut off the pallet planks if you want and just leave the nail bottoms in the 2X4's. Or you can use a circular saw to cut off the edges of the planks and just use the shorter 16 inch long slats for the sidewalls. Both those methods make pallet breakdown fast.

First pic, you can see how I framed up the raised bed with the notched pallet wood 2X4's.

1684122194373.jpeg



Notice how I orientated the 2X4's so the notches on both the top and bottom have the notches in the middle. That becomes important later when I nail on the sidewall slats.

For those of you that know something about putting butt joints together, they are not considered a very strong connection. Here is what I mean...

1684122416911.jpeg



As you look at the above picture, you can see the screws go into the end grain of the other 2X4. Although this is a strong connection today, it will not stand up over time and those screws can (and most likely will) pull out of the end grain wood.

Knowing that this butt end connection is the weak point in this design, I made some corner posts out of 2X4's, attached to each other, and then attached them to the outside frame - screwing from the inside.

1684122647503.jpeg



1684122773378.jpeg



That should make the basic frame a lot stronger and not fall apart over the years to come.

Now I added all the 16 inch pallet planks I have cut from my pallet wood breakdowns. This process took very little time as the planks were already cut to 16 inches long. I simply started at one corner and started laying down wood planks working my way to the end of that side. I used my 18 gauge brad nailer to fasten the planks to the 2X4's. An 18 gauge brad nail is not that strong, but in this design, all it needs to do is to attched the plank so it does not fall down. When I fill up the garden bed with soil, the weight of the soil will be pushing outwards, so the weight of the soil will assist in holding the planks in place. Also, using the brad nailer takes no time at all to bump and shoot. Of course, a person could either nail or screw those planks in place if you don't have a nail gun.

⚠️ Now, here is a point that I want to stress... It's important to have the basic framing on the outside of the raised bed and the planks on the inside. When you add the soil, it will push the planks into the 2X4 outside frame and everything should hold together. Some people will reverse this process, making the 2X4 frame as the inside, and then tacking on the planks to the outside. Of course, that will work and will look just fine - for a short while - but in a few years the weight of the soil will push out on the planks on the outside of the frame and you will have multiple blowouts to repair. Remember, the wood is going to rot over time and the nails, screws, etc will no longer hold the planks if on the outside. No doubt, my pallet wood raised bed will also rot out over time, but it should last many years longer with the design of the planks on the inside of the frame. ⚠️

As you can see, I attempted to alternate between light and dark colored planks, because that is the look I wanted. Notice that one corner on each side has a gap board missing.

1684123074427.jpeg



When I laid out the planks, I made sure that the gap was an even distance from the 2X4 corner pieces. That meant I did not have to make any special taper cuts. So, I just had to rip final boards for 2 inches, 2-1/2 inches, 1-1/4 inches, etc... All straight rips that were very easy to measure and cut on the table saw.

Besides the aesthetics of having the notches in the 2X4's facing each other, it makes it very easy to nail the planks on the sidewalls just about an inch from the top/bottom where you know there is no notch to worry about. I did not want to shoot a nail into the notch void and then have to remove the nail.

Final boards added to each corner...

1684123587617.jpeg



OK, the build was done at this point and all in all, I would say that it was faster and easier than my previous designs.

Here is a picture of the new pallet wood garden bed design compared to the pallet wood garden bed design I built last year.

1684123795446.jpeg



Time to setup the garden bed, and I got most of it done today. I use the hügelkultur method in my raised beds. I recently cut up some pines trees that died and fell over this past winter. I used the tree trunk logs to line the bottom of the raised bed. The idea is that the wood will act like a giant sponge and soak up water, releasing it later to the plants when they need it. As the logs decay over the years, their effect as a giant sponge improves. Eventually, the wood breaks down and feeds the soil, which in turn feeds the plants growing above.

1684124031162.jpeg



After the heavy logs, I tossed in some smaller branches and dumped in a load of aged wood chips I needed to clear out. Here is where I ended today....

1684124121675.jpeg



What's left is the top ~8 inches which I will fill with a high-quality topsoil and chicken run compost mixed 1:1. I used to be able to get vermiculite for my raised bed mixes, but I can't get large 3 cubic foot bags of commercial vermiculite anymore. Small bags of garden vermiculite would be far too expensive - on my budget. So, I talked to the main guy at our local nursery, and he told me just to mix the chicken run compost and topsoil 1:1.

I had a little more time before it got dark, so I filled up my new 8 cubic foot "Gorilla-like" cart with some chicken run compost - you can see the chicken coop and run in the background of the first picture. Anyways, take a look at this black gold compost from my chicken run...

1684124523822.jpeg



I have to say that I get really excited about my chicken run compost because it's just so much better than what I used to buy at the big box stores. Mostly, it's a combination of leaves, grass clippings, maybe some wood chips or paper shreds from the coop litter, and of course, chicken poo mixed in. If you like the smell of rich, dark, earth, you would really like this compost.

I will be sifting this compost with my cement mixer compost sifter and then mixing it with the topsoil. Then, I'll top off the new garden bed(s) with about 8 inches of the compost/topsoil mix. I plan on building at least one more pallet wood garden bed this spring but would really like to make four new beds in total.

:caf If you made it this far, I would love to hear some feedback on this new pallet wood raised bed design. I put a number of hours of thinking into this project before I put it together but would love to hear any comments others may have. Thanks in advance for your thoughts. Later....
Another added bonus to using the logs in the bottom is that they give off some warmth as they decompose that helps plants get going faster in cooler weather.
 
I just finished a new pallet wood raised bed build and posted the pictures on the thread Show Me Your Pallet Projects!. As usual, I invite anyone interested in pallet projects to check out that thread and all the pallet projects members have shared.

Here is a copy of my post as it also relates to this garden thread...

⚠️ Pallet Wood 4X4 Foot, 16 Inch High, Raised Garden Bed - New Design

:yesss: Time to upload some pictures of my newly designed pallet wood raised garden bed. I was plenty happy with my old raised bed design, but I specifically wanted to redo this design to use the pallet wood notched 2X4 stretchers without cutting them. With that in mind, I took apart some pallets that had 4 foot long 2X4's, all of the same thickness, or very close to it. The beauty of this step is that you don't need to have the 2X4's nail free in this build. That means, you can use a reciprocating saw to cut off the pallet planks if you want and just leave the nail bottoms in the 2X4's. Or you can use a circular saw to cut off the edges of the planks and just use the shorter 16 inch long slats for the sidewalls. Both those methods make pallet breakdown fast.

First pic, you can see how I framed up the raised bed with the notched pallet wood 2X4's.

1684122194373.jpeg



Notice how I orientated the 2X4's so the notches on both the top and bottom have the notches in the middle. That becomes important later when I nail on the sidewall slats.

For those of you that know something about putting butt joints together, they are not considered a very strong connection. Here is what I mean...

1684122416911.jpeg



As you look at the above picture, you can see the screws go into the end grain of the other 2X4. Although this is a strong connection today, it will not stand up over time and those screws can (and most likely will) pull out of the end grain wood.

Knowing that this butt end connection is the weak point in this design, I made some corner posts out of 2X4's, attached to each other, and then attached them to the outside frame - screwing from the inside.

1684122647503.jpeg



1684122773378.jpeg



That should make the basic frame a lot stronger and not fall apart over the years to come.

Now I added all the 16 inch pallet planks I have cut from my pallet wood breakdowns. This process took very little time as the planks were already cut to 16 inches long. I simply started at one corner and started laying down wood planks working my way to the end of that side. I used my 18 gauge brad nailer to fasten the planks to the 2X4's. An 18 gauge brad nail is not that strong, but in this design, all it needs to do is to attched the plank so it does not fall down. When I fill up the garden bed with soil, the weight of the soil will be pushing outwards, so the weight of the soil will assist in holding the planks in place. Also, using the brad nailer takes no time at all to bump and shoot. Of course, a person could either nail or screw those planks in place if you don't have a nail gun.

⚠️ Now, here is a point that I want to stress... It's important to have the basic framing on the outside of the raised bed and the planks on the inside. When you add the soil, it will push the planks into the 2X4 outside frame and everything should hold together. Some people will reverse this process, making the 2X4 frame as the inside, and then tacking on the planks to the outside. Of course, that will work and will look just fine - for a short while - but in a few years the weight of the soil will push out on the planks on the outside of the frame and you will have multiple blowouts to repair. Remember, the wood is going to rot over time and the nails, screws, etc will no longer hold the planks if on the outside. No doubt, my pallet wood raised bed will also rot out over time, but it should last many years longer with the design of the planks on the inside of the frame. ⚠️

As you can see, I attempted to alternate between light and dark colored planks, because that is the look I wanted. Notice that one corner on each side has a gap board missing.

1684123074427.jpeg



When I laid out the planks, I made sure that the gap was an even distance from the 2X4 corner pieces. That meant I did not have to make any special taper cuts. So, I just had to rip final boards for 2 inches, 2-1/2 inches, 1-1/4 inches, etc... All straight rips that were very easy to measure and cut on the table saw.

Besides the aesthetics of having the notches in the 2X4's facing each other, it makes it very easy to nail the planks on the sidewalls just about an inch from the top/bottom where you know there is no notch to worry about. I did not want to shoot a nail into the notch void and then have to remove the nail.

Final boards added to each corner...

1684123587617.jpeg



OK, the build was done at this point and all in all, I would say that it was faster and easier than my previous designs.

Here is a picture of the new pallet wood garden bed design compared to the pallet wood garden bed design I built last year.

1684123795446.jpeg



Time to setup the garden bed, and I got most of it done today. I use the hügelkultur method in my raised beds. I recently cut up some pines trees that died and fell over this past winter. I used the tree trunk logs to line the bottom of the raised bed. The idea is that the wood will act like a giant sponge and soak up water, releasing it later to the plants when they need it. As the logs decay over the years, their effect as a giant sponge improves. Eventually, the wood breaks down and feeds the soil, which in turn feeds the plants growing above.

1684124031162.jpeg



After the heavy logs, I tossed in some smaller branches and dumped in a load of aged wood chips I needed to clear out. Here is where I ended today....

1684124121675.jpeg



What's left is the top ~8 inches which I will fill with a high-quality topsoil and chicken run compost mixed 1:1. I used to be able to get vermiculite for my raised bed mixes, but I can't get large 3 cubic foot bags of commercial vermiculite anymore. Small bags of garden vermiculite would be far too expensive - on my budget. So, I talked to the main guy at our local nursery, and he told me just to mix the chicken run compost and topsoil 1:1.

I had a little more time before it got dark, so I filled up my new 8 cubic foot "Gorilla-like" cart with some chicken run compost - you can see the chicken coop and run in the background of the first picture. Anyways, take a look at this black gold compost from my chicken run...

1684124523822.jpeg



I have to say that I get really excited about my chicken run compost because it's just so much better than what I used to buy at the big box stores. Mostly, it's a combination of leaves, grass clippings, maybe some wood chips or paper shreds from the coop litter, and of course, chicken poo mixed in. If you like the smell of rich, dark, earth, you would really like this compost.

I will be sifting this compost with my cement mixer compost sifter and then mixing it with the topsoil. Then, I'll top off the new garden bed(s) with about 8 inches of the compost/topsoil mix. I plan on building at least one more pallet wood garden bed this spring but would really like to make four new beds in total.

:caf If you made it this far, I would love to hear some feedback on this new pallet wood raised bed design. I put a number of hours of thinking into this project before I put it together but would love to hear any comments others may have. Thanks in advance for your thoughts. Later....

Excellent raised bed project! Very Nice!
 
I just spent an hour trying to install a side of the door light fixture. FCOL my junction box will not work with the light, and that's after swapping the light with one I bought for the barn as the 3 I bought for the house wouldn't fit. So two strikes. I'm going to have to go all the way back to town to get new connectors and junction boxes. This is a newer house ARGH. I should NOT be having these issues.
 
Another added bonus to using the logs in the bottom is that they give off some warmth as they decompose that helps plants get going faster in cooler weather.

Good point. Thanks.

Excellent raised bed project! Very Nice!

Thank you. I'm very happy with the build. The pallet wood was free, of course, but I also spent less than $1.00 on the screws and brad nails on this build. My design from last year used pocket hole screws, they cost a little bit more per screw, but it took me a lot longer to put together the raised beds last year. This new design not only uses the pallet wood 2X4 with notches that I had no other use for, but I did not use any pocket hole screws in the new build and that made everything easier and much faster to put together.
 
Good point. Thanks.



Thank you. I'm very happy with the build. The pallet wood was free, of course, but I also spent less than $1.00 on the screws and brad nails on this build. My design from last year used pocket hole screws, they cost a little bit more per screw, but it took me a lot longer to put together the raised beds last year. This new design not only uses the pallet wood 2X4 with notches that I had no other use for, but I did not use any pocket hole screws in the new build and that made everything easier and much faster to put together.
I might make one of those. I have a bunch of pallets but right now they're stacked up with a sheet of OSB on top. It's my cutting table for when I use my circular saw, but that project is almost over.
 
Today I walked around the gardens considering I planted onions garlic and green onions and shallots and chives in front of my pump house. The asparagus is on the east side. Last year's garden gave me some tomato plants and pumpkin plants as well so instead of covering it up I planted more onions. Also corn green beans peas herbs and strawberries. Then I went out back where I had the squash plants and pumpkin and also green beans. I have already removed over 100 squash plants however now I have over 20 more.(yummy). For the green house I have potatoes corn green beans tomatoes and strawberries planted with more to get planted.
 
Bad news:
My self propelled push mower died today. I went over a small stump that v was flush cut before but the much around it settled I guess. Three blade hit the stump and the motor died. It took several pulls to get it to start again, and although it started it is shaking like crazy and died out after a less than a minute.

Good news:
I decided to upgrade finally to a Husqvarna 42" riding mower and the mulching kit. I well day that it takes some getting used to, but it cuts the grass fast and easily.
 
Bad news:
My self propelled push mower died today. I went over a small stump that v was flush cut before but the much around it settled I guess. Three blade hit the stump and the motor died. It took several pulls to get it to start again, and although it started it is shaking like crazy and died out after a less than a minute.

Good news:
I decided to upgrade finally to a Husqvarna 42" riding mower and the mulching kit. I well day that it takes some getting used to, but it cuts the grass fast and easily.

Sounds like you bent the blade(s) and that is why it is shaking like crazy. I'm not a mechanic, but I think you might be able to save that push mower. I have 3 riding mowers, but still need a smaller push mower for certain areas where my riding mowers cannot go (in and between trees, for example).

I have one riding mower with a mulching kit, but mainly I use my riding mower with grass collection bins because I dump all the grass clippings into my chicken run. The chickens eat some of the fresh, green grass, What does not get eaten is turned into compost.

I have a metal survey post in a part of my lawn that I mow. It's only a couple inches above the ground. I banged into that post too many times over the years while mowing the lawn. Finally got smart and stuck a 4-foot-tall driveway marker on that metal post and now I never run over it anymore. Easy to push into the ground, and easy to pull out if you don't need anymore.

216-2601_P_48drivewaymarkers(1of6)(2).jpg
 
Last edited:

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